Yeh very handy little tool. Just loose off the caliper bolts slide on and place between the pads and hold breaks, tight up bolts and release breaks works great
AutomaticLoss8413 on
I use it often….the only situation that doesn’t work is when the bored screw hole surface is not milled properly flat from manufacturing.
maharajuu on
Yes
Quiet_Tell8301 on
Tried centering a caliper yesterday using one of these metal shims after bleeding and like the previous 5 times I’ve tried using them it didn’t work.
Workflow: Loosen caliper bolts. Put shim in between rotor and brake pads, pull lever a few times to push out the pistons, then squeezed hard and tightened down the caliper bolts. Caliper ended up pushed to one side and rubbed. Did it by eye and after some fiddling got it aligned without rubbing.
Not sure why I keep the tool in my pack at this point tbh lol, I guess it’s just become integral part of my bleeding process to waste 10min failing to align the caliper using a dedicated “caliper alignment tool”.
Not a big deal, I’m just wondering if anyone ever actually got a caliper centered using these tools and what your workflow is? Some people on youtube claim they do it so I guess I must be doing something wrong. Maybe you have to squeeze the lever a certain way?
aricm2009 on
I’ve had both of those tools at various points and they both work.
bensambrook89 on
I’ve got the Birzman one and it works exactly as it should, providing the rotor is straight.
Foreign_Curve_494 on
Forgot I owned one of these untill this post. When I can’t get a caliper centred, the problem is usually sticky pistons or the hose position is putting pressure on the caliper. Once these problems are mitigated there shouldn’t be any need for the toolÂ
Prutzer on
I use the birzman on code rsc brakes. Makes life easier and results are good!
xoechz_ on
Yes,
loosen caliper bolts, slide that thing onto the disc brake, let it run into the caliper, brake, tighten bolts while this thing is being squeezed to the max., remove it and enjoy (make sure it’s clean when you insert it, otherwise you contaminate your disc/pads)
steveoa3d on
I have the Hayes one works great ! Had one at RaysMKE and I used it to setup brakes on the rental bikes. I bought my own for at home.
GamerKingBV on
I have the Hayes one. It works pretty well, although not at all necessary. It is worth the money if you do not have a lot of experience centring brakes. The more experience you have, the less useful it becomes.
GlitteringNews2022 on
I got birzman clam and it works really well with mt5
shelf_caribou on
I have exactly that. Haven’t found it terribly helpful, but have only tried once.
Namerunaunyaroo on
I sense your frustration. What I have learnt is, if it doesn’t work first go then it’s likely you have a piston sticking problem.
When this happens I remove the pads and fully clean around the piston and inside of the caliper. Push the pistons all the way out( back into caliper body).Then I recenter the caliper over the disc (with pads still not installed). I do this simply by eye. Before reinstalling pads check them for asymmetric wear. If uneven best to go new. Re-install pads then use the tool again
This solved it for me after many months of brake dragging when out of saddle
Character_Past5515 on
Yes.
konwiddak on
Yes but you can’t just tighten down one bolt then the other – the caliper tries to rotate as you tighten the first bolt and loses alignment. What works for me is tightening one bolt lightly, then the other very lightly, and alternate back and forth until it’s properly secured. Just in general, even without the tool, this is the only method that works for me.
BasicAppointment9063 on
I have not used one yet, but there are some other things to keep in mind:
* A **bike/shop stand** can be very handy. It allows you to more easily elevate the bike to retighten the caliper bolts, while still squzzing the lever.
* **Bent rotor**: If the rotor needs to be straightened you’re going to drive yourself crazy by just focusing on the calipers.
* **Dirty pistons**: A dirty piston may not slide out smoothly. That can make it seem that the caliper intermittently rubs when it doesn’t.
Good luck. I know the phantom rubbing is annoying. These are just some suggestions.
XCrMTB4x4 on
Yes. Veryhelpful
andrusoid on
Didn’t know that existed, but then I’m an amateur and dilettante. I’ve always just loosely mounted the caliper, squeezed the lever, and loose-tightened the nut.
19 Comments
Yeh very handy little tool. Just loose off the caliper bolts slide on and place between the pads and hold breaks, tight up bolts and release breaks works great
I use it often….the only situation that doesn’t work is when the bored screw hole surface is not milled properly flat from manufacturing.
Yes
Tried centering a caliper yesterday using one of these metal shims after bleeding and like the previous 5 times I’ve tried using them it didn’t work.
Workflow: Loosen caliper bolts. Put shim in between rotor and brake pads, pull lever a few times to push out the pistons, then squeezed hard and tightened down the caliper bolts. Caliper ended up pushed to one side and rubbed. Did it by eye and after some fiddling got it aligned without rubbing.
Not sure why I keep the tool in my pack at this point tbh lol, I guess it’s just become integral part of my bleeding process to waste 10min failing to align the caliper using a dedicated “caliper alignment tool”.
Not a big deal, I’m just wondering if anyone ever actually got a caliper centered using these tools and what your workflow is? Some people on youtube claim they do it so I guess I must be doing something wrong. Maybe you have to squeeze the lever a certain way?
I’ve had both of those tools at various points and they both work.
I’ve got the Birzman one and it works exactly as it should, providing the rotor is straight.
Forgot I owned one of these untill this post. When I can’t get a caliper centred, the problem is usually sticky pistons or the hose position is putting pressure on the caliper. Once these problems are mitigated there shouldn’t be any need for the toolÂ
I use the birzman on code rsc brakes. Makes life easier and results are good!
Yes,
loosen caliper bolts, slide that thing onto the disc brake, let it run into the caliper, brake, tighten bolts while this thing is being squeezed to the max., remove it and enjoy (make sure it’s clean when you insert it, otherwise you contaminate your disc/pads)
I have the Hayes one works great ! Had one at RaysMKE and I used it to setup brakes on the rental bikes. I bought my own for at home.
I have the Hayes one. It works pretty well, although not at all necessary. It is worth the money if you do not have a lot of experience centring brakes. The more experience you have, the less useful it becomes.
I got birzman clam and it works really well with mt5
I have exactly that. Haven’t found it terribly helpful, but have only tried once.
I sense your frustration. What I have learnt is, if it doesn’t work first go then it’s likely you have a piston sticking problem.
When this happens I remove the pads and fully clean around the piston and inside of the caliper. Push the pistons all the way out( back into caliper body).Then I recenter the caliper over the disc (with pads still not installed). I do this simply by eye. Before reinstalling pads check them for asymmetric wear. If uneven best to go new. Re-install pads then use the tool again
This solved it for me after many months of brake dragging when out of saddle
Yes.
Yes but you can’t just tighten down one bolt then the other – the caliper tries to rotate as you tighten the first bolt and loses alignment. What works for me is tightening one bolt lightly, then the other very lightly, and alternate back and forth until it’s properly secured. Just in general, even without the tool, this is the only method that works for me.
I have not used one yet, but there are some other things to keep in mind:
* A **bike/shop stand** can be very handy. It allows you to more easily elevate the bike to retighten the caliper bolts, while still squzzing the lever.
* **Bent rotor**: If the rotor needs to be straightened you’re going to drive yourself crazy by just focusing on the calipers.
* **Dirty pistons**: A dirty piston may not slide out smoothly. That can make it seem that the caliper intermittently rubs when it doesn’t.
Good luck. I know the phantom rubbing is annoying. These are just some suggestions.
Yes. Veryhelpful
Didn’t know that existed, but then I’m an amateur and dilettante. I’ve always just loosely mounted the caliper, squeezed the lever, and loose-tightened the nut.