La cuisine bretonne avec Nicolas Conraux – Les Carnets de Julie

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La cuisine bretonne avec Nicolas Conraux – Les Carnets de Julie 5 janvier 2019

Nous partons à la rencontre d’un jeune chef, breton d’adoption, distingué il y a quatre ans d’une première étoile par le guide Michelin : Nicolas Conraux. Si sa cuisine reflète parfois ses origines alsaciennes ou ses voyages dans l’Océan Indien, elle célèbre surtout les couleurs de la Bretagne, son pays d’adoption depuis une vingtaine d’années. C’est non loin de Brest, à Plouider, que Nicolas a posé ses valises pour reprendre le restaurant de ses beaux-parents. Sans aucune formation, il apprend la cuisine sur le tas, et rapidement, Nicolas excelle derrière les fourneaux, invente une cuisine créative et raffinée, inspirée par les produits locaux, de terre ou de mer. Il nous fait découvrir le cœur du Finistère à travers ses amis producteurs, pêcheurs ou cultivateurs et leurs bons produits : huîtres, algues, beurre, oignons… Des produits mis à l’honneur dans sa recette réalisée en duo avec Julie.

Nicolas Conraux : distingué d’une étoile au guide Michelin en 2014, il s’attèle à révéler le meilleur de la Bretagne à travers sa cuisine créative, légère et précise, mais toujours fidèle aux traditions du restaurant dont il gère les fourneaux. Ne pas céder aux modes est son crédo.
https://restaurant.labutte.fr/nicolas-conraux-chef-passionne/

Henri Courtois : passionné par les algues depuis plus de 30 ans, Henri commercialise, avec sa marque « Bord à bord », des produits transformés à base d’algues pêchées dans les environs de Roscoff : confits, pâtes, biscuits aux algues, tartares, conserves, condiments… Il fournit également les professionnels, comme le chef Nicolas Conraux.
https://www.bord-a-bord.fr/-L-equipage-du-bord-.html

Michel Cueff : ancien maraîcher passionné de golf, Michel a décidé de créer un golf au milieu de ses champs : le golf de Plouescat. Nicolas Conraux vient ici pour faire des parties avec son fils, et en profite aussi pour repartir avec quelques légumes pour son restaurant.
https://golf-cs.jimdo.com/

René et Malou Léa : ce couple d’agriculteurs implanté à Plouescat produit notamment des oignons roses de Bretagne bio, très appréciés de Nicolas Conraux.

Emmanuel Legris : basé au milieu de l’archipel des îles de Lilia, dans le Finistère nord, cet ostréiculteur élève des huîtres creuses dans ses parcs qui bénéficient d’un équilibre unique entre les minéraux des eaux de rivière et la pureté de l’eau du large. Il possède actuellement 20 hectares de concession en mer, lui permettant de produire environ 300 tonnes d’huîtres par an : https://www.huitres-legris.com/

Gaël et Lucia Paugam : producteurs laitier basés à Plouider, Gaël et Lucia élèvent une soixantaine de vaches du terroir, laissées en plein air toute l’année. Ils produisent du lait mais aussi d’autres produits lactés comme de la crème fraîche épaisse ou liquide, du beurre fermier, des yaourts, etc. Le chef Nicolas Conraux se fournit chez eux.

Pierre Simon : ami du chef Nicolas Conraux, Pierre est pêcheur et amateur d’ormeaux. Tous les deux se retrouvent parfois pour les pêcher, à pied, parmi les rochers près de la plage. Ce mollusque, aussi appelé « oreille de mer », se pêche soit en haute-mer, soit à pied à marée basse.

[Music] hello Bour today we are going to meet a young Breton chef distinguished 4 years ago by a first star I named Nicolas con his cuisine is the reflection of his childhood spent between the Indian Ocean the Antilles and Alsace but it also reflects the colors of his adopted Brittany for 20 years since he settled in Plouider on the Finisterre coast not far from Morlay where he took over the restaurant of his parents-in-law and was his woman obviously I suggest you go straight away to the C Finistère to meet Nicolas his family and more broadly his clan I want to talk about his producers, his farmers, these fishermen obviously who help to inspire his cuisine and give him his [Music] identity Nicolas will take us to Plugerneau in the heart of the Lilia Islands archipelago, a particularly protected site to meet Emmanuel Leis who is his oyster farmer, in any case the one with whom he is used to collaborating who will help us discover its parks in Hite tu Laou well there we only have 3000 to we are not going to do them all Today eh let’s head east to the east of the wild coast towards Roscof an old Corsa landmark to meet Henri courteous he’s been harvesting algae for 30 years and that’s to say he ‘s an expert in the field we see through it’s just magnificent there we have we just have finesse the interest c is to find this crunchiness this finesse there in the plates of our customers G is a breeder he makes us good milk, cream and butter with which his wife Luia of Colombian origin will make a recipe typical of this region the far so this recipe was my mother-in-law who taught me how to make it because I am Colombian it was good that I learned the Breton recipe and for the moment let’s join our chef Nicolas con at home who will make us a recipe that smells good Brittany Yodé [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] we’re better off warm so you understand today we’re going to cook with Nicolas stupid who comes to see us from his Brittany to make oysters in velouté from Sarasin if it’s not Breton that’s a title all in simplicity like this chef who elevates simplicity to the standard of living in any case the art of cooking ah well here he is the chef has just warmed up hello Nicolas good how it’s going it’s going very well a real Christmas tree already we’re going I’ll put that down there I brought you some oysters yeah the oysters from the aberes what is an aber so an aber is it an arm of land in fact and the sea comes inside so with the high tide the low tide it empties and it fills and there these oysters there they are raised in an aber which is called the bervrac are the oysters from Emmanuel Emmanuel the gray so here we have number 2 yeah are Creus it’s you see it’s already a beautiful oyster and then well there we ‘re going to work with it with lots of things with the Dulce that you have here yeah the seaweeds another of the treasures of your region al it’s a treasure yeah it’s and then it’s really picking he it’s pickers who actually in Low tide who pick the seaweeds like we would pick seaweeds plants in a garden in fact and the onions from your region are also pink so that’s the onions from Malou and and rel René we have a beautiful braid look you see yeah who will find us onions which are still delicious because we have this little sweet taste this crunch you will see they are very pink it’s really there are onions and onions in France we can say exactly and there we have some beautiful ones so what do we start with for the buckwheat velouter so we will start by roasting the flour in fact ah ok the Saracen flour exactly so be careful the Saracen is a plant a cereal after that we will roast it it will brown and then it will take on this nutty taste which is really interesting already but as a result we are going to strengthen strengthen and then we are going to give it a little more different color more delicious so the roasting is done in a PO also in a frying pan it’s better so we can do it in the oven but it’s nicer to do it in a frying pan let’s go we have that exact so we’re going to fire it up we light up this plate there it really needs to roast dry okay the idea I started working on making this recipe because I grew up a little bit in Alsace in fact yes I learned that yeah I did a few harvests and time when we were doing the harvest there was a grandmother at 4 He who made the snack and who made flour soup and in Alsace they do that and so it’s white flour yeah that’s like that BL flour yes flour of wheat which was roasting but really almost dark brown and then afterward she diluted that with water and a little bit of onion and we ate flour soup so I started again on this recipe basis in fact on this idea is precisely these childhood memories so they are more Alsatian than Breton if I understood correctly nourish your cuisine or did you make a race table from the past no I did not make a race table from the past because I started there at the beginning I combined a lot of this Alsatian cuisine and Breton cuisine, that’s what helped me to evolve then to progress a little bit and then I always but look there it’s the perfect example this flour soup there it’s it’s really typical Alsace the cures exactly so there we see that it smokes a little bit yes you shouldn’t burn it either of course no it you don’t have to burn it so that’s why you really have to smell it well in fact you can control the cooking you could say the roasting to the nose almost ah of course completely and then visually also you’ll see that it’s important so we spoke of TER this roots in this region that you have appropriated which is that of your wife Soline exactly it is Soline yes since you took over the establishment of her parents took over the establishment of her parents with her I started to work with them in 99 so you take us to your region precisely your magnificent region the coast of legends how pretty it is and how it is deserved and then you will see that there we are but then we are in the cabbages but until the club I tell you no more [Music] let’s go to the coasts of Finisterère with Nicolas [Music] because it’s in the heart of this seaweed stronghold the harvest of algae has always been an integral part of the economy of the region that the chef regularly enjoys family walks with his feet in the seaweed in breathtaking scenery look at the piles of GEM drying there that’s why it smells a little strong after they put it in the fields to make fertilizer he is today accompanied by his daughter and his wife Solen, daughter of a restaurateur and reveals to us the surroundings of ménam, an ancient village of peasant fishermen and seaweed growers, a place full of anecdotes, we are really in the middle of middle in the heart of the Coast of Legends coast of legends why then there are lots of stories of fishermen it is said that at the time they put some kind of lanterns around their cows and then it caused the boats to run aground so that it’s really the legend and then he came to plunder the boats we can see that there are stones everywhere so it’s easy to fail and then at low tide to go and plunder his boats, this is a place which is full of character in fact a region which conquered Nicolas who left Strasbourg to plouidire in 1999 the village of his wife’s family establishment they took charge in 2007 to obtain a first star in the Michelin guide in 2014 you should know that when Nicola arrived at the Butte he worked in the dining room yeah so he was not at all in the kitchen not at all in the kitchen yeah and when we said to ourselves that we had to take over the business it took one of the two of us went into the kitchen not being particularly good at cooking it was Nicolas who stuck together and then there he did all the stations and it went rather well because that’s beautiful whenever he can, the chef devotes time to his family, this is particularly the case with his son Paul, in whom he instilled not only a taste for cooking but also for a sport at the great TER, it is for sure a golf green that of plus4 somewhat unusual that they like to meet up well we do it so how much do you do and well I don’t know in 3 in 4 in 7 in 7 be a little more optimistic anyway yes go ahead y it’s you who by oh I’m going to put it in the lake no ah no not even it’s nice to play between us with Paul it’s always a good time I find inspiration when I’m rather out of the kitchen so surrounded by cabbage vegetables and then it’s true that normally golf is done to relax and to think a little less about work but for me it allows me to have another look at what ‘we cook in the kitchen this atypical site was designed by Michel Quef, a market friend who since 2013 has been annexing vegetable plots to devote them to his passion while sharing it with those around him. He is going to check his new green how it is going very well there it’s sunny yes yes it’s magnificent this new green there yeah it’s good it’s fine it’s really good we don’t have the right to play on it yet I suppose but at the end of the month ah already yes I have an egg hole right next to it from the house it’s still Royal that wow in the middle of the fields with vegetables funny POS cauliflower hot arti all the other side of the road there are 2 hectares of cabbages and 2 hectares of brown pot ok d ‘elsewhere I need it a little bit, you can let me know, well, let’s go, we’ll look for it, great, great, here we go, we’ll have to make some new ones, a little bit, well yes, we’ll make some new dishes with pleasure, you can take everything what you want or TR like that we like to make some soup some cream things like that they are great so there are there are several sizes of small brown there are small and medium the small ones are good for making the when we make the creams the soups all that’s great it’s gone and it’s creamed with small poached FO gr there it’s just excellent a good touch of mold a PA pepper and it’s perfect thank you very much Michel [ Music] let’s return under the emrins and the Yodé air of the coast because there is hidden a flagship product of the chef the sea ears the other name of hormau this mollusc whose fishing is extremely regulated the diving being formally [Music] prohibited if our chef usually obtains his supplies from professional fishermen he also knows how to appreciate a fishing trip on foot for the occasion he meets up with his amateur fisherman friend Pierre Simon and takes advantage of an excellent tide coefficient to unearth the precious hormals it is a little sporty to join you there you’re doing well well yes it’s sporty you deserve the hormones that’s the aim of the game it’s to lift the rocks you see well yeah to lift each time it’s for that’s what he sticks to under the rock you already have to find the stones that are rising because that’s not exactly the case he’s hiding for the day in fact ah well that’s exactly what I was telling you ah yes is really stuck there ah it’s stuck you can try to remove it go ahead ah it’s not easy eh you see go ahead there you go there you got it that’s good there it’s already beautiful beasts so you see it’s this muscle there which sticks to the rock in fact that’s it it’s exactly that it’s with this big muscle there which will stick to the rock and you saw how it was you had it’s hard to remove it because it’s on the entire surface it’s stuck to the rock it’s the right size it’s good news also because there are very strict regulations on their word on their word it’s necessary that it is at least 9 cm 9 cm ouah we can also find some you see on this type of rock but there when it is nestled there it is often in faults ah well look there there is you see who is well hidden you see in the crack under the stone there you see ah yes ok you have to see it because it’s really ah yesor the same color well yeah they take the same color in fact, that’s it, you see, that’s it, and you can also have dinner with that, that’s for sure, we have to eat in it, that ‘s for sure, shuck it, it’s a dormant steak, there you go, it’s a flesh that has the advantage of being a little rubbery we roll it in a Chion and hit it with a hammer yeah there are lots of stories we are told that the hormau are hard because they are stressed with the starfish I don’t know if it’s is a legend or if it’s true but apparently it’s an animal that can be stressed the less stressed it is the more tender it is listen to me this is how I do it and and I put it in the pan with either butter or hazelnut butter and a little bit of chot de carlouan anyway not even it’s true that we have several recipes but in any case we like to use it between November and May because I find that it is quite tender given that their mous feeds on Dulce we say that it is its delicacy so we chop a little bit of dul and put it in the sauce and it is true that it reinforces a little bit the taste of the ormon has some something very very musky there it’s nice very marine yeah it’s very marine very Yodé a legendary land of character and flavor which Nicolas synthesizes in his cooking finally in my kitchen today so the ear of the sea yeah the ears of the sea so either on the beach gleaned from pi or then in the high seas obviously or sea in a bottle with divers otherwise culturally and traditionally it’s fishing on foot during the high tides it’s not an easy task doing this is worth it the sea is low for 30 minutes so you have to hurry you have to lift stones yeah yeah it’s a real sport so let’s come back to your flour so there you have obtained the right coloring the right T or there I have the right roasting you see we have this nutty taste which is there which is still which is superb we are going to put a little bit of white stock white stock okay VO it is a chicken broth in fact we in our kitchen in we have either vegetable broth or white stock permanently on the piano because we readjust the sauces because we cook with it in fact all the time you wet your sauces and your cooking not necessarily with water but with broth yes it gives flavors it’s completely different Nicolas your tips for making the white stock is there any the trick is once you have cooked your chicken it’s leave the broth to cool so that the fat rises in this way – we will degrease the broth and this will allow us to have a very clear broth like that and we will not add any fat so there we will pour it in. a little bit of white base go ahead I pour it very gradually to avoid the formation of lumps and we put it on low heat because the Saracen thickens very quickly it’s your crème pâtissè which ultimately it’s a little bit that you can go for it Julie but besides Sarasin can replace wheat very easily including in desserts eh memory of a caman with Sarasin it’s V so here we have a rather nice consistency to accentuate the finesse of its texture and its perfume make it velvety then we crush the residue and like that we will dry our Saracen and then you when you were in the hotel school so from Strasbourg you never said to yourself that you were going to start cooking one day but no because that made me a little bit, cooking was a little scary I found that it was always a very hard environment and then and then in fact it was in any case it was but we can ensure that that’s not the case and today in the kitchen in any case yeah no it’s nice at home there’s a good atmosphere and then the job is also very feminized we have a lot of women in the kitchen today so we has atmospheres which are much cooler than before we will say so there we have dried well you see we have recovered a good part and there you see we have our veloué which is very very fluid and I don’t want the veloué to be too much too liquid so here I reduce it a little bit so that it has a bit of a consistency you see something smooth what drives your cooking ultimately you talk a lot about harmony of simplicity or I think it’s simplicity because when you don’t have a lot of technique then you surround yourself with people who have technique of course but you do things simply you simply think about instinct yes and I think that’s it and then and then to taste and then there is one thing that we must not forget that inspiration finally does not come like that, it comes because we have people around us because we are in a territory because we have producers because we have a relationship with them and because we learn in fact we imbiipate what makes up their knowledge and that’s how we manage to create dishes we are going to put this veloué in the blender we are going to add a a little bit of butter to smooth it to give it a nice shine maère gr exactly we ‘re going to put a little bit of the RIB okay that’s funny actually I wouldn’t have thought of the Ribo milk and the whey that remains when making barate butter I like it because it gives acidity, no it’s not fatty and it gives freshness so there we have our velouté it will be ready there and this velouté we will savor it with oysters we told you the oysters of Emmanuel Legis we are going straight away to this beautiful coast the aberres the famous aberes to see how these oysters are cultivated because Emmanuel is an austricultur but he is also a lace crusher that said like that [Music] over there let’s go to Lilia near Plugerna in the North Finister discover the longest coastline in France here follow one another the cliffs the points the presquiles the fine sandy beach and the lighthouse of the Virgin Island the highest lighthouse in the [Music] world it is also on this exceptional coast in the middle of the archipelago of the Lilia islands that our leader Nicolas con finds his austrian farmer Emmanuel legis hi Emmanuel Nicolas you are well and you B definitely to go at sea there it’s perfect that’s fine come on let’s go there you have your little awesome seat there [Applause] thank you on this dazzling site Emmanuel cultivates 300 tons of oysters each year these 20 hectares of park benefit from a balance unique between the richness in minerals of the waters brought by the river and the purity of the water from the open sea which comes to stir the parks low tide is the time to go and tend the oysters the parks are discovered like the work of the [Music] austrculturists let’s go down, we’re going to go, we’re going to go and shake a little pocket because it’s an operation which is necessary to achieve a beautiful shape if you want beautiful h in your restaurant you definitely have to work on them in fact we’re going to break the growth which is around the oyster and as a result they will gain depth in the hollow to have a hollow which is very deep and there suddenly you will then with each tide you will shake them every other tide you have to shake ok ok you take the bags ok so one bag is about 15 kg you take it you have to throw it on the side turn it and after breaking it and it is very easy to see everything that has fallen on the ground c ‘is the lace of the HU you take it you take you throw it to the side you shake you shake it well there you go and what do you hang up each time and you hang up as it’s done there we only have 30,000 to shake we’re going not do them all Today eh no I said to myself as you don’t come much anyway and your pockets are so it’s super clean too clean because since 1988 I found a little trick of putting periwinkles in the pockets OK and in fact it’s incredible this little shredder the work it can do on a pocket it is capable of eating algae and in fact it’s a melusc so the little shell gets stuck in it OK and there’s just the animal and it cleans a mesh it goes into the next mesh and so on and so on so you put a little bit each time you load we put 3,300 g in a pocket we have about 100,000 bags in total between all the spat and so on so we still have 30 tonnes of standard so you also become a producer of Bigorne we are a producer of periwinkle [Music] also in these bags Emmanuel raises four sizes of different cultivated oysters depending on their stage of growth, the smallest are placed at the bottom near the water and the largest at the top in this enchanting setting to end this maritime stroll in style, our two friends treat themselves to a little tasting with their feet in the sand before the sea rises [Music] we’re going to take there because in the red bars normally we’re on number 2 that ‘s a colored C that’s the one I like to work with in any case number 2 here is the result of the shaking that we were talking about that they are well filed there you see I can take them by hand I am not going to cut myself little knife they have a nice shape in fact there and they have a nice hollow like that tac a little pull of the lever we come back we raise the foot to cut there always in the same place there are that I believe the English h who have the foot on the left the bigger this foot the more the animal will be able to be calibrated keep transport this foot it’s good what it’s the best it’s excellent it’s because it really has a sweet taste which well we have C and strangely she was in the water a while ago there and she is not salty for less than 2 hours the saltiness in fact it’s the saltiness of the ocean I still have to look even if I haven’t told you a joke we’re going to continue doing it no problem with great pleasure that we will continue to buy them after 38 years we will not stop when [Music] even Nicolas leaves the coast to reach the lands of the end he stops at his farmers René and Malou producer of pink onions from Brittany a local product essential for its recipe good Tu Vi work we on the onions there a little bit that you are both here you are well yes you too yes it is going very well well here are our onions I will give you the tool there it is then what the work then the work consists of removing the tail you see the roots or like that you look and there it is and that allows you by looking at them like that closely to be sure that the product is of quality to make each onion what yes there you go when we cut an onion there like like this one you see the beautiful the beautiful circles and then we immediately have the beautiful VO the pink color that’s what is required that’s what makes the pink caréristi and then then translucent also here is a pink onion yes the particularity of the pink onion is that with very little cooking it will still be tender it is not crunchy to the bite it will keep this this flavor this juice this is sweet and this is the interest of pink onions in any case for us yes yes cultivated in the north of Finistère for 400 years here the bulb has been farmed in the family for 4 generations at the time these Breton onions were collar worn by merchants who were called the Johnnys, my grandfather sold it to the Johnny who then went to sell it in England, which there are lots of stories with or or or these bonuses who came to get the onions yes and Junys over there who were going to sell it by bike yes yes it’s part of the history of the country I saw that you had a whole beautiful carpet a little strange here well yes so it’s the production so of seeds yeah this onion there when it is planted in the ground it will give TR qure floral amps yeah which will give flowers so the bees will live on it we will do the work and uh and the seed C Ambes there will carry the seed okay ok these collected seeds are carefully sifted by hand a work of patience they will be sown in the fields to give birth to new beautiful pink Breton onions so the onions before chiseling our beautiful Breton onions we will do it later we will come back to the abalone yes the abalone because it’s a little surprise that you gave me you brought me some hormau so here I brought you some farmed abalone ok so who are not welcomed on foot there they were not fished on foot on foot there these are hormau which must be 4 5 years old ah yes hormau that Nicolas offers me as a snack between two stages of the recipe what is it that we do to them then we simply peel them and then we keep the body of their word and we will if you want we will cook them but really in the simplest way we will make a little brown butter so I coat lightly the abalone with wheat flour and we sear them in a pan quite simply it’s magnificent it’s pretty look but yes it’s small boats it’s very very pretty it looks like boats exactly come on we’re going to taste this and there you have to bring a good knife anyway eh not the hand are a little bigger we say that they are dormau steaks because they are really big I will serve you a little bit of cider but yes with pleasure it is a raw cider yes Come on, let’s toast, thank you for your welcome, but I beg you, but above all, thank you for coming and for having braved the elements, you see, it’s not just in the Finissery that we brave the elements, ah it’s exceptional, we’re attacking the ormous come on let’s go we taste there is a real flavor it’s something very particular you see it’s almost sweet a bit like scallops indeed yes it’s this flesh is almost sweet but besides we you see it’s deceptive eh we have this color which is a little pearly like scallop yeah but there are more chews we really have tenderness so these hormau for those who are watching us we can buy them of course we can buy them so there are fishmongers all over France who sell some hormau like that so you have to arrive at the right time you have to arrive at the right time you have to know the addresses it’s really very very strong well there you go I have a difficult job all the same but we must not forget the rest of the recipe however we are going to take care of two pink onions from Brittany harvested of course by René and Malou how do you want them then or you just have to finely chop them in fact quite simply yes we no , we don’t crush the onion what we want is to keep the crunch and then respect the product so cutting the product that is the most finely cut is good it doesn’t put pressure at all that’s great for me I didn’t go to hotel school or marketing or anything else so there you go so we’re going to first cut this onion like that okay in the thickness in the thickness there is still a real method then listen to me I always say that I am not a champion of the method because I learned to cook on the job yes you are ultimately a self-taught or so I want to tell you that we get by a little bit like we do can for it to be done as best as possible you may not be a champion of the method you take it well we manage to agree on something it really has to be very very fine [Music] yes it’s the onion after all not of doubt it makes you cry a little bit yeah absolutely so we’re going to take our little onions we have our onions and then we’re going to go and chop the Dulce the famous red algae and then we’re going to use it to give this Yodé side the contrast with the earthy side which is there nothing there exactly so we are going to use it as a condiment we are not going to add too much because you can smell it is still something which is very strong it is very very perfume even it it’s very pleasant there transported on the loral trèodé so there are two schools there are people who will tell you that algae are vegetables like vegetables and then others who will tell you that it is rather a condiment eating seaweed like that as vegetables it quickly becomes stale and then it’s an education to eat seaweed we learn to savor it so it’s better to go little by little we’re going to chop our Dulce there ah it’s firm hey it’s firm you can taste or of course it’s good yes it’s it’s good and then that’s a real chew we really have and then this Yodé side which is super strong so we were talking about alg and we will follow h courtesy Henry you have learned a lot of things concerning algae that’s it completely it’s a it’s incredible there’s a smart guy he knows a lot of things and it’s fascinating to walk there on the estrand with Henry and discover all his algae well here let’s take a walk- we on the estan [Music] the sun rises over the Celtic Sea Nicolas heads east to go to one of the beaches of Roskov where there is the largest natural field of seaweed his captain is his impassioned courteous friend Henri who has been studying and transforming algae for nearly 30 years to anchor them in the culinary landscape there we arrive at a place where there are stones everywhere and when there are stones everywhere and well that gives us is going well because like that there are ales that most of the welcome is done here because here we are in an area that we qualify as beaten that is to say who who gets whipped by the sea all around and there are species that love this brew there are several seaweeds here there is sea littuce there is dul there is sea spaghetti we have the possibility of coming several times here during the year for the dul it’s it’s it’s a good it’s a good season it is it is it is beautiful it is very mature so then here we have a quality of water which is which is remarkable with his team Henry locates fertile algae sites throughout the year on his boat then waits for the high tides which give access to the harvesting sites like here this [Music] morning what is important is to leave the feet it allows the future generation to grow again so the next season to return to the same site and to see again a beautiful density of dul for what concerns us today it is the same phenomenon as in a garden in fact it’s the same if you respect the right way of pruning it grows back much better what the right maturity and then is better also we see through it’s just magnificent there we have we just have finesse the the interest is to find this crunchiness this finesse there in the plates of our customers I say that it has a flavor which is which is almost musky in fact it’s really interesting there on the recipe we work it with the cream will reinforce the taste this earthy taste of Saracen your bag is full Henry is starting to weigh eh when there is water in it it weighs [Music] one last [Music] effort the bears bag of Al loaded on the The comp boat has to wait for the water to rise to get back on the road. They take the opportunity to explore the surrounding rocks and take a little gourmet break with the marine and vegetable products made by hen [Music] so here’s a little Tartard d’alg, you see, look we find the colors of the red of the green thank you and then you are a good spooner of alg quite not bad we managed well there 10 or 15 years ago the algae did not have the presence that they have in the kitchens ah it’s clear it’s because you taught us how we could use it yeah but thanks to us we were able to see that well we can make such an association all that’s great or B well there it is ‘is the right one [Music] d and so we saw that the coastline was not lacking in algae resources ah no no we have everything we need it’s it’s rich it’s so mixed in fact it’s is that you need to know here is winter we have we also have these storms the water is very oxygenated we have water and when you come in summer it could be the Scales because the water is clear so we have landscapes which are just spond pariah or where are we so there we will have to whip up some cream to aerate it to lighten it and then if you want while I whip it up you can cut me off pancakes then pancakes of course Breton pancake black black look they are fine and then we have you see this lace lace here we are very lace eh there very dainty and we like to have these very fine pancakes but there it depends a little regions of Brittany there are some who make them more or less thick, they’re not real Bretons ah well that’s it so what I would like is to have in fact ah yes it’s really barely tagliatel yeah it’s even finer than a tagliatel the finer it is the prettier it will be okay here I concentrate on cutting thin strips of pancake while Nicolas whips the farmhouse cream for his accompanying sauce the tagliatel of pancake once realized we Brown them in a generously buttered pan so given that we are in Brittany we generally fry not with oil but with clarified butter ah yes okay you dip the melted butter into the melted butter and therefore clarify that means that you have removed the casein it is exactly and the net which remains at the bottom you know and we have a butter which is pure and therefore it can rise in temperature can rise up to 250° so that is what it you have to do that, you spread them apart so that it doesn’t make a bunch, it’s going to be quite quick ah yes it’s going to be very quick, oh there, you smell the crepe arriving, you know when you’re at the crepe the crepe is placed, it’s really that ex exactly she is still quivering under the butter we are going to put them here great idea so there you see we have our chips which are there Nicolas finalizes his whipped cream by integrating the onions and the seaweed your Tartard sauce what we are going to do quite simply mix this together all the components of the recipe are ready all that remains is to poach the oysters we are going to poach them in fact completely agree we have them with the shell with the shell it will keep all the flavors and we have something really interesting in the mouth so if you want it’s not far away you can leave it for a minute until it finally opens, that’s it no I definitely don’t want it to open because in done we must not allow the water to go inside okay I understand so you cook them almost stewed that’s it that’s that we’re going to take our hiss you see it’s not open it is not absolutely open so it has cooked inside you now have to open the shellfish and the colas technique turns out to be very useful we can both do it I will give you a cloth and a knife and in fact it is not your knife that moves it’s you who moves who moves the hand the hand in fact like that you are going to open the oyster like that yes so that be careful when opening the oyster be very careful because it’s all the same often the opportunity to hurt your hand very badly, you have to be careful and in fact the goal is to keep, you see, the oyster as undamaged as possible, but it’s great, look, it’s okay, I’m jealous because ‘it’s even better than mine it’s better luck for beginners as they say we empty the first water no no not at all no no you keep everything okay very well come on so the oysters we opened them we’re going take them out of the shell or not yes later we will remove them from the shell to be able to plate them well the dish is almost ready eh it is almost ready there is just a matter of plating and preparing the dessert for the suddenly a very local dessert completely pitiful pH yes the pitilic stuffing the pitilic stuffing ah there in terms of accents Lucia’s spectic far that’s it we’re there [Music] is for the preparation of the dessert to the taste of the North Finister of course we return to Plouider on Nicola’s land to go to the farm of Lucia and Gael Pogam, both milk producer and creamer. Gael raises 60 local cows on site which he leaves throughout the year Brou l fresh grass from the pastures is a chance for us and it’s true that it is felt in the quality of the products, the omega3 in particular which brings quality in terms of taste and health, chef Nicolas therefore c It’s true that this is what he appreciates about us: the proximity and quality of the milk have not escaped Nicolas who has been getting milk products of all kinds from Gael and Luuchia for several years, thick or liquid crème fraîche. yogurt and above all in butter, a semi-salted farmer’s butter of course which is prepared by hand in the farm’s workshop so the cream was made Tuesday morning and so 48 hours later we churn it [Music] a 10-minute operation during which the cream will successively transform into whipped cream then into a beautiful yellow grain before metamorphosing into a creamy paste it is good the butter has started to clump together kind of Motte it is good [Music] yellow the butter is then salted and molded to by hand in traditional molds a very fresh butter which will allow Luia the wife of GA to prepare in the kitchen the far pque the dessert stamped Nord Finister for which you need butter vanilla sugar powdered sugar flour and whole milk to start we will mix the vanilla sugar with the flour luuchia mixes with the flour a sachet of vanilla sugar and 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar she adds three free-range eggs a pinch of salt and mixes everything until you obtain a fluid dough so this recipe was my mother-in-law who taught me how to make because I am Colombian and I had to learn a little Breton recipe luia now pours 30 cils of whole and creamy raw milk from the firm for this device which is reminiscent of pancake batter now that we have mixed everything we take a ladle we often do this with our family to check the consistency of the batter it is very liquid but it also keeps a small texture a little a little creamy it is perfect the dough must rest for a few hours Lua takes the opportunity to prepare a milk jam her specialty it’s my way of making the recipe for pitillque stuffing a little Colombian style the milk jam is is something that we consume a lot in Colombia, a jam which is made with 70 CLIL of milk and 300 g of sugar which is first brought to the boil with a vanilla pod then heated over low heat for 2h30, stirring regularly to obtain a very smooth texture, the milk jam is my grandmother who often makes it at home. We often make the milk jam for the [Music] Christmas holidays, so 2 hours later our jam has reduced well. saw that it is now caramelized let it cool and we will be able to start making our our let melt and caramelize a nice knob of homemade butter in a hot pan and pour in a good ladle of the dough which has rested so now versa we must bring the dough which is starting to cook on the edge we bring it towards the center for the little story the pitique stuffing that means stuffing made in the pan she turns the stuffing to brown the other side and our lighthouse is ready and generously its jam of milk the stuffing is ready for our meal so this famous Fars Fars I composed we pronounce it like that stuffing it’s the stuffing in the pan which is really the particularity because I know the stuffing in the oven well s and there it’s really they also call it farce buen it gives the character of the region before plating we’re going to simply take our oysters and we’re going to actually shuck remove our our eighth if you want we’re going to scrape the foot like that yes because that ‘s delicious the foot you don’t have to do it that’s it and I put it on the so we’re going to first put it on the put on the paper to taste this eighth a little bit okay we are going to arrange our oysters on the plates you are going to arrange we put how many we put three three we each make a plate then we are going to take our cream and we are going to simply make a little quenelle like that of cream and we are going to put you see our laces just like that to actually give a nice crispiness to the dish and then we’re going to take our Sarasin velouté ah yes you’re in a saucepan carment look at how it’s hctueuxc bring it like that it’s really pretty we’ll bring the first plates drawn up in the dining room while Nicolas’ Breton tribe shows up, come in Entz hello hello hello hello Malou come in and warm up Malou and René the producers of pink onions from Brittany come out on top with Gaell the breeder with his arms full of these dairy products so what can I have the dessert already well yes the very important dessert with the milk jam that I have in my pocket perfect there and so give me that so the yogurts from the farm yeah absolutely it’s the first product transformed into L it’s very very precious we developed Henry the algae picker at home has for the occasion to leave his office in the open sea and then you Henry so that I say are the little specialties that we make based on seaweed Seaweed tartar with lemon entrusted to Provençale ah yes d ‘Okay, you make a little bit of it, it’s a bit like tapenades but in your own way, each one has their own terroir, ah well, it’s wonderful, we’ll be able to taste lots of delicious gifts, the spirit of Christmas is still there in the kitchen, Nicolas who leaves nothing to chance puts the last touches on his plates while all our guests are settling down then on the menu the chef offers you oysters, you guessed it I think they are beautiful with a Saracen velouté and then we will find a lot of Gaell’s products a lot of Henry’s products and then your onions obviously but I won’t tell you where you’re going to see it’s very pretty eh is it a signature as they say today about your signature card I don’t know but in any case it’s all Finistère that’s on the plate that’s the most important thing there ah no it’s good the bottle of cider it’s ah Cid W ah well yes wait no but we do n’t do things by halves, I have the impression that you often make Therm mixtures yeah and that’s really inspired by this visit to Alsace where we still have very earthy and then I believe that in any case in Finistère in any case on the north coast where we live we are always divided between this land and this sea which is very close so we always have this relationship of the two and I believe that we keep it with us all the time in fact in everything we do it’s appetizing he bon appetit bon appetit to all in everything thank you very much also it’s delicious is this land precisely limons I imagine which nourish the earth do we feel them in the fruit of your crops of course or already by the fact that we put Duon for unandal TER this is necessarily found in the taste of the products what as for the cows which you told us graze almost all year round non-stop which is still an ultimate privilege it is clear we see less and less farms which allow it after that it is our flight we are in a production which is therefore smaller than most French farms but we wanted this qualitative side which allows us to really have products where the earth really expresses itself what is that and then Malou you reborn you work the old fashioned way since you resow your own grain fa that’s happening less and less we are trying to relaunch precisely the fact that young farmers can now reseed themselves and that’s important or and adapt the products to the terroir t our cabbage everything we do even now the carrots we produce our seeds ourselves like that we also know where we are going we know which product we select on the taste if the product is good at the start of course it’s a plus for you it’s much simpler for us without forgetting it’s still of exceptional quality this crispy Sarasin there but we’ll also lot it’s it’s surprising tribute to onions because they bring a little sweet taste a real crunch it is one of av V this sweet but mild taste which subtle it is eaten raw easily it is not at all is very tender and moreover it is even a beautiful onion like that it’s a shame to overcook them because they have so much flavor so I like to use it most of the time increased in any case Is this found in your Tartard d’alg h or not yes absolutely it’s the opportunity to taste we actually have ingredients as local as possible also is it good that with candied lemon is it ‘it’s really precious it needs more I don’t know why we bring in chefs in the end you just have to open some BOCs no but frankly and what’s more the chef says it’s very good so the algae sows itself the are established we come to harvest them it’s it’s wild what like a little bit the mushrooms we are in the in the picking we the work it’s it’s super simple what it’s harvest wash in the sea ​​water and keep in salt so we really have the product behind which will restore almost as if we had just fished the algae when we use it we really have the impression of being on the seashore completely it there are different maturities in terms of algae and so it’s important to know what Nicolas is going to look for eh like size comm like texture the taste more or less more or less Yodé ah yes it’s like a vegetable or a meat ultimately the older it is, perhaps the more flavor it will develop but at the same time it will be firmer, that’s it, all algae are edible or not, so all macroalgae, those that we see are edible, we can really go for a walk on the Demer shore at least during high tides and at Maré base you will pick the seaweed and taste it in all cases we had a great time there so dish it was your dish because Julie too ah or no but I was a performer, I learned to chop an onion, I did n’t come for nothing, it’s still a big step in my career, come on, let’s taste the yogurts, you’ll be tempted before tasting the pitili stuffing, that’s how it goes. the pili stuffing I practiced all night eh and now I cut so how does it happen that there are finally several pancakes one on top of the other or I cut into pieces like a cake that’s it it’s that’s it if you want to also put milk jam on your yoghurt, Yogurt is nice, let’s put our plates together, come on, there are tips for making this milk jam, so you need patience, that’s the time to patience it’s cooked for a very very long time or it’s cooked for a very long time or and a good sour milk reduces no but the color the texture the shine of this yogurt is crazy I haven’t even tasted it but just by eye already I’m in another dimension when even yogurt H that’s really the dessert in childhood this crepe cake side plus they are creamy they are are tasty then the milk jam but it doesn’t go well the yogurt goes well with it too eh or it’s true yeah that I find that in your stuffing you smell the butter really well in fact we have the scent of butter no but it’s true yeah exactly yes which also allows you to brown the crepe really la la brunière as it is there in fact it’s the butter that we put in but that’s it and then the butter is everywhere finally yes yeah at home or at our place still there is butter everywhere the butter yeah it will be the sentence of this show butter is when it’s not butter it’s cream or well there’s one last little part left you’re going to sacrifice yourself Allezénor g come on g there’s a long way to go eh to leave yeah well yes in addition but I hope that you enjoyed this trip to Finister Nord in any case that it made you want to go there to taste the beautiful products to meet these passionate committed farmers who defend their territory their traditions their products their country age and also their freedom we heard it new generation old generation in short it’s worth the detour and above all don’t forget to go alte at Nicola Salen hello [Music]