Power meters are fantastic pieces of equipment. However, there is one huge problem with them: each one gives a different reading, and some vary wildly in their accuracy. Can power meters actually be relied upon, or are they just expensive random number generators?
Welcome 0:00
Categories of Power Meters: Pedals, Cranks & Hubs 0:25
Power Pedals & Power Cranks 2:39
Accuracy of Power Meters 3:12
Does price affect accuracy? 5:03
Can you make a power meter more accurate? 5:28
How seriously do you take your training and data analysis? 6:39
What power meter would we suggest? 7:22
Conclusions – Tell us your experience in the comments 8:04
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power meters are fantastic pieces of equipment however there is one huge problem with them and that is because each one reads differently and some of them vary wildly with their accuracy so can power meters actually be relied upon or are they just really expensive random number generators let’s [Applause] discuss if you’re new to cycling or perhaps just not a tech nerd like me this is probably a problem you’re not really aware of but it’s a problem you need to be aware of so you don’t go out and blow all of your cash on a product which doesn’t live up to your expectations also if you are new to cycling it probably means that you haven’t subscribed to gcn Tech so if you’re able to please do now then parameters fit into a number of different categories and work in a number of different ways you’ve got pedals which is the hardest place to measure as there is lots of different input forces and they’re susceptible to damage knocks and wear but the advantage is that you can swap them easily between bikes next you have cranks and spiders this isn’t as easy to install as pedals but are often more accurate and robust as a general rule the units that were designed to be power meters from the ground up rather than non-p power meter cranks then retrofited with sensors tend to be more accurate next you have the Hub which is the easiest place to measure accurately as there are far less complicated input forces but you have less flexibility in terms of your wheel choice being Downstream of the pedals and cranks the power reading can be slightly lower this is due to drivetrain losses typically around a couple of Watts they can be super reliable but not that common anymore with regards to pedals and cranks you can opt for a single-sided version which is the budget friendly option as it measures just one leg and then doubles it but these are far less accurate and physiologists believe they can lead to an imbalance between the left and right legs because you subconsciously learn to push a little bit harder with a leg that is being measured that said they are still useful if you’re on a budget and want a good idea of the power that you’re producing most brands will claim an accuracy of somewhere between plus or minus 1 to 5% however that isn’t always the case so much so that for scientific studies scientists have to be really careful with the parameters they choose to use and as a general rule fixed SGS or SRM units are what they tend to use there’s always going to be a small variation between units however some can be out by a considerable margin I mean we all seem to have that one mate on the group ride who reckons their FTP is 500 watts but we all know it definitely isn’t now this problem isn’t something new but it is a problem lots of people myself included seem to have forgotten about and I recently highlighted this in a video where I’m trying to compare heart rate against Power and the two power meters that I was using to record my efforts gave fairly different readings the power pedals gave a reading of 323 wats whereas the power crank gave a reading of 342 wat which is quite a difference over a 10 km climb on the subjects of accuracy a power meter could be inaccurate but consistent so that would mean it say reads 10 to 15 watts higher all of the time or the slope could be off this would mean that at generally lower power readings the power meter could be out by just a couple of Watts but higher power readings it could be off by say 10 to 20 wats now this is a problem especially if you have more than one power meter and you’re trying to compare your efforts on different bikes but a more common issue that we’re often asked about is where people are using an indoor smart trainer with an inbuilt parameter to do their efforts and training and then they head out onto the road using a pound meter fitted to their bike and then wonder why some of their efforts seem increasingly harder or easier than they first had planned and this is down to the difference in readings between the pales on your bike and the smart trainer indoors if you are fortunate enough to have two different Power meters it’s important you know how they track against each other to monitor this you can dual record so if you’re looking at a smart trainer and an on-bike power meter you could use two headge units to record the two devices separately and ride at varying intensity levels over different periods of time so you can do 100 WS 200 WT 300 WT 400 WTS and then throw some Sprints in the mix as well that way you can retrospectively compare how the two power meters stack up against each other now a difference of say 2 to 5 watts should be considered comparatively normal but this isn’t always the full picture because we’re just looking at recording it indoors if you were to head outside over some extreme conditions say riding over cobbles for example can make it increasingly difficult for power meters to remain accurate because of all of the different vibrations that traveling through the bike once you’re aware of all this stuff and take it into account you can then make sure that your power meter is more accurate compared to your different devices and you’re aware of it to make sure your training is as accurate as possible and it’s not price which is really affecting the different readings and accuracy of parameters because there are lots of budget friendly options out there which have been proven by lots of different people to provide accurate and reliable power meter readings and there also are some bigname Brands and expensive power meters out there which those same people have proven to be fairly inaccurate and inconsistent with their readings [Music] so what can be done about this issue well some parameters can be adjusted using specific software to allow them to update the firmware zero offset them or maybe even calibrate them now if you want to get super nerdy about it you can use some of this software to accurately calibrate your power meter this is where you hang weights of a no Mass off of the cranks but then in reality most of us are unlikely to do this however you should engage in best practice and that is to complete a zero offset before every single ride this is usually done using your head unit but confusingly some head units label this as a calibration but in reality you’re not doing a calibration it’s more like pressing the zero on a set of weighing scales it’s also worth re-zeroing your power meter if you’re doing a long ride then there is a huge change in temperature that’s because the temperature affects the strain gauges in a significant way some power meters such as those from power to Max will have automatic temperature compensation to account for this but it is just good practice to keep your power meter reading consistently it’s also worth noting that it’s important to stay on top of firmware updates so that your power meter is updated and as accurate as possible in which case is this problem really as huge as I said it is at the start of this video well it kind of depends on how serious you want to take your training and your analysis of the kind of data that you want to dive into I mean for most people provided your par meter reads consistently that is going to be more than enough for you to make improvements to your Fitness and monitor your training I mean if you plan on taking on the tour to France or you’re perhaps someone lucky enough to have two bikes and two power meters and you really want to dive to the next level of data analysis well it probably is going to be a bit of a problem for you so what would I suggest the majority of people do well I think i’ probably suggest you head out and you buy an affordable single sided power meter because I think that’s more than accurate enough to give you like a Gateway into power and make Fitness improvements and single sided power meters represent the best value for money and more than enough for what you actually need to get training with power but let’s be clear want and need are two very different things because even though I know that single Sol parameter is all that I need like many of you out there I still feel like I want something like this which is dual sided and represents the latest in technology anyway hope you’ve enjoyed this video and found it interesting to hear a different take on the differences between parameters and I am Keen to hear your thoughts on this so please do let me know in the comments section down below your experiences with parameters be that good or bad and of course if you want to see more Bike Tech related videos much like this one subscribe to gcn Tech and turn on your notifications so you don’t miss out on future uploads right I’m out of here see you later
30 Comments
Do you own a power meter? Let us know in the comments 👇
dual power meter (if the extra money is affordable) would be the better choice, monitoring eventually disbalances / change of balance over the months/years …. which might be a sign for „health“ issue like stability of your back, some nerves
I had quite the eye opener when I used to train exclusively on a Keiser m5 elliptical. I could produce 250w on there just before my LT1 for an hour. On the bike I could only do 120w! Had no idea power difference would be so big.
I am not going to to be racing maybe the odd mass participation event or challenge ride with a local club. But I don’t need a power meter, but ooh would I like yes please. Just to geek out and have another column of data / numbers on the Excel spreadsheet I use to keep notes on my rides outside of the Garmin Connect and Strava apps.
I love tech and found the watts data so interesting for about three years. It allowed me to get more powerful sprints. I then just started using heart rate more, as it's a better metric to measure my actual fitness and effort levels. It's still fun to see if I hit 1kw on that sprint, but isn't useful for anything other than FTP to me.
If the accuracy is +/-1% and you're out putting 200W, then the more accurate hub meter after losses might be better. At least with the hub, you know which way the difference is.
My pice of advice I can give to everyone: don’t forget there is also a calibration mode on zwift. Use it.
My zwiftnumberes were for long way higher than my Dual 4iii and Dual Assioma. And I had a hard time on zwift when I figured that out😅
Overall my favourtie are the Assioma Duos, good price, super easy and userfriendly to install. And easy to switch between bikes.
Why single-sided? You get good spider powermeters for little more than a single-sided crank/pedal system. I am pretty happy with a Sigeyi – which has been demonstrated to be quite precise, is very easy to set up, and add little additional weight (in my setup, just 80gr, considering that 12gr for the cadence sensor can go). Bought it for 378 CHF…
They also cost around 5p to manufacture but retail at around £1000.
Having used a Power2Max campagnolo PM for years (before the bike was stolen) I can say that aside from the battery running out it was faultless. ANd required NO maintenance whatsoever. I got it second hand and it was worth every penny.
I've since used a Stages LH only PM which was frankly not good enough. I couldn't gain any form of consistent numbers. High indoors. Low outdoors. Sometimes in the right ballpark. Even when calibrated. The lack of consistency was really frustrating.
Moved to Wahoo POWRLINK now, and they seem to be really good.
TL;DR: I do think you get what you pay for.
Shimano power meters ? Really ?
Assioma duo-Shi >>>>>
Gonna try these out 💪
A single sided crank arm can be changed between bikes of same crank length in 5 min. Especially is same pedal type.
My PM's from my own purchasing and experience. Fyi, I ride shimano groupset.
1) Power2max NgEco. – Consistent accuracy, very long battery life. Calibrates quickly. Paired with rotor 24mm cranks means it works with Shimano chainrings and bottom brackets. – HIGHLY recommended.
2) Tacx Neo trainer – accurate, no need to calibrate. Recommended
Note – Power2max and Neo agree with each other consistently 🙂 .
3) 4iii gen 2 left-side only. Accurate and non peaky. Strain guage died after 2 years which also happened to 3 friends and is unfortunately common with 4iiii, Sadly, I can't recommend it.
4) Pioneer left-side only – Difficult to calibrate, inaccurate, extremely peaky with occasional readings in the thousands of watts. NOT recommended.
If you're not training, One of the best reasons for a PM is to track calories. Super accurate and consistent compared to the differing ways that garmin, Wahoo and Zwift estimate calorie burn.
Accuracy is overrated. Even if accurate PM's in different settings (indoor, tribike, roadbike,mtb) will give you vastly different numbers. If having multiple bikes you either have multiple FTP's and Zones or you must have PM models that allows to change the slope to adjust all PM's to report at least comparable power values, no matter how accurate.
Erm, yeah. Pass!
"this represents the latest in technology" … shows the one that is the most inaccurate – shimano powermeter
edit: having watched the video twice now,..this looks like an apology piece for bad shimano powermeters
Lol if you where comparing the wahoo pedals to a Shimano 9200-p crankset. The Shimano one is terrible🫣🤣
I use a 4iiii power meter on my left crank. My Kickr core output is around 10% higher so I changed the scale factor on my 4iiii so it matches my indoor training. Although I still feel that indoor training is harder..
One thing to watch is getting rogue readings when the battery gets weak. This can mess horribly with your data. I had a Stages dual side for a while with batteries in each crank arm and saw few benefits as my r/l balance was close at about 48/52. Keeping up with the battery changes and the rogue readings was a pain. I’ve single sided Stages now that has been mostly very well behaved and gives me all the insight I need.
My Powertap hub starts to eat batteries like madman 😢
Are there power meter for flat pedals?
Does Shimano fund GCN? Is GCN tech independent in its analysis? The reason I ask is that it seems odd not to mention the issues identified by DCR and Shane Miller.
Interesting how you didn't out Shimano Ultegra 11-speed bonded HollowTech II road cranksets (IDK if it affects dura ace too because I only tested the Ultegra) is complete inaccurate shit that I tested it between 2 indoor cycling trainers and 3 types of power meter pedals and when every other power meter was within 1 to 2 watts in the steady state (I tested it from 100 up to 250watts in 50-watt increments per interval) the left side was fine but the right side was shit and the new firmware just upscale the power when you are on the big ring and I returned it you cannot claim 2% accuracy which is fine on the left side and you are about 10% off on the right side if I can measure 5 types of power meters against yours and they are all in line with each other only the shimano is craping out that means I am inclined to think that the Shimano is crap.
Does anyone know of a power meter pedal with one side SPD and other side flat? Or can I just retrofit that onto a measuring spindle from Garmin or assioma?
However!
Awesome video. I have separate power meters on my solo bike and tandem, doing the double-record comparison against a trainer is a great idea and will be a good way for me to compare the meters from the two bikes!
these devices have fucked up cycling … they take away all the fun .