Today I had so many new boulders to try at Boulderhaus Darmstadt, which made a great onsighting session! I share some tips on boulder starting position rules, focusing during a session, and jump-and-press moves.
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Timestamps:
0:00 – Session 1: Boulder (Boulderhaus Darmstadt)
12:41 – Session 2: Workout (Boulderhaus Darmstadt)
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Hey everyone my name is Maddie I’m a 22-year-old competitive climber from Canada currently living near Frankfurt let’s get to it so today’s session is between an hour and an hour 15 so I’m just going to set it to an hour 15 and we’ll see how long I go He W All right so we already got the tip of the day so take a look at at the way I start this folder uh this is actually completely legal in World Cups you have four points of contact like four pieces of tape on four different um holds I
Find a lot of ifac climbers don’t uh take advantage of this Rule and sometimes starts can be really hard because you’re trying to start them one hand on each piece of tape when in fact you can have them in any order you want as long as before you go to the next
Hold you have you know each hand or foot on each piece of tape so what I’m doing is I’m grabbing the foot first and then kind of getting myself settled then I’m coming back to tap the Circle [Applause] he He He I know I broke that one but I’ll come back to it I just wanted to move On I find that sometimes I can’t f focus when I have music in so this fer ended up being harder than I thought it was so I had to take my headphones out to actually Focus Up Okay quick piece beta for the first move of this Boulder um the first few times I was attempting it I put my foot on the volume and then tried to jump into like the the press and gas stall and that didn’t work very well I felt like I was
Like coming too far out and my hand wasn’t Landing properly like it was just all not good and then when I took my headphones out and started focusing I uh realized that swinging leg on is a lot better because you want to be a little bit higher and when you plant your foot
You kind of force yourself to like push push yourself back so when you when you land already high on the foot I find it makes it a lot Easier I guess sometimes my my brain is a little too compy that was more static than I thought it Was Well this is a perfect project for me but unfortunately I only have so I will definitely come back to this by the way recording yourself talking to a camera by yourself in a gym full of people is a little bit uncomfortable especially at first so I would appreciate if you would leave a
Like on this video And subscribe to the channel to reward my Efforts He Down [Applause] Now All right we’re all done with the day uh it’s really stormy I’m hoping it doesn’t rain while I try to bike home it’s tiring but it’s done now and I can go home and see Zach and edit this video see you after rest day
6 Comments
Digging the real time beta breakdowns
Can you only use taped start holds/volumes to get into position or can you also use other holds in the route as long as you have the correct amound of limbs at the start holds for positioning?
Really liked the editing and the music! cool session!
I think the music is way to loud especially when you are talking. Thx for the video and the betas, (not that I can climb any one of them) 🙂
Loved this video!! Music and real-time beta were awesome!
I really get that music makes you distracted from the boulder, happens to me so often