Use a lighter/propane torch/heat gun on the bolt to break the galvanic corrosion that’s probably in there the use a pair of vise grips to unscrew it.
lionreza on
if you cant work this out i think you might be better taking it to a shop, if you cant back it out when there is no clamping load you have probably cross threaded it and will have mullered the stem. also why have you greased the clamping faces?
3AmigosMan on
It should just back out. If not, its likely cross threaded which would explain it breaking. If its cross threaded, I’d buy a new stem.
WhichStatistician810 on
Either cut a slot in it for a screwdriver or file/grind two sides flat for mole grips
Ok-Twist6106 on
Pair of grips be able to get that out. Loads of room for jaws to get on it.
kojo_urbex on
Grab a pair of pliers and just unscrew it
rw_DD on
Screw 2 nuts onto the broken bolt and then unscrew the inner one.
Lost_Ninja on
Vice or mole grips and then just twist/turn it out gently… unless it’s cross threaded normal pliers would probably do it as well.
Mihsan on
Vice grips or a pipe wrench. But it looks cross-threaded and you might have other problem on your hands – will that thread still be in decent condition.
Particular_Relief154 on
I come across things like this daily in my job. Usually caused by one of three things: cross threaded, corrosion, or if it’s stainless (which this appears to be), over tightening can gall the threads.
If you don’t care about paintwork, you can use a flame to heat the stem (not the bolt). The part heated will expand slightly, so if you heat the bolt, it’ll only get harder to extract. If you prefer to keep the paintwork, use a hot air gun but be careful as to how close you get- it can still lift paint.
Use wd40 or similar on the threads, and turn out with some mole grips. If the mole grips are spinning, either tighten them up more, or grind some flats into the thread and use a spanner.
Sometimes a sharp strike to the end of the sheared bolt with a hammer, can shock the thread and loosen it up a bit.
I would also run a tap down the threaded hole once you get it out too- just cleans the internal threads in case it was cross threaded or there was debris / corrosion there.
I’d also not use grease on the clamping faces- it’s likely meant that you’ve had to tighten the bolt more than it was designed for.
shoegazing_puncheur on
If it was one of those aftermarket stem mounted aluminium holders don’t, they’re made of the softest alu and will eventually snap while serving a critical purpose in the integrity of the cockpit!
FinalAd2949 on
I sometimes use a drill and just clamp the bolt into the drill chuck. Tight it as much as you can! Maybe this helps
millenialismistical on
I assume you already tried twisting it out with your fingers? Not being facetious, sometimes they come out real easily.
weixb on
If vice grips slip, I’ve sometimes had luck wrapping the threads with a rubber band to get a bit more traction/grip once you clamp the vice down- would probably by my first plan of action before busting out the heavy duty tools! If you don’t have a heat gun as mentioned above, hot water might also help.
Pure_Activity_8197 on
Plenty of advice on how to remove the bolt here. The question is how you prevent this from happening in the future. Could indeed be a weak bolt but you’d more likely just round out the head if that was the case. How much are you torquing the bolt down? Should only be 5-6 Nm on most stem bolts.
IMeasure on
The answer is always Vice Grips. They are known as locking pliers in the USA.
Puzzleheaded-Nobody on
Why do you have puncture protection liquid in your stem?
18 Comments
Not the first time the… ?
Is it cross-threaded?
Use a lighter/propane torch/heat gun on the bolt to break the galvanic corrosion that’s probably in there the use a pair of vise grips to unscrew it.
if you cant work this out i think you might be better taking it to a shop, if you cant back it out when there is no clamping load you have probably cross threaded it and will have mullered the stem. also why have you greased the clamping faces?
It should just back out. If not, its likely cross threaded which would explain it breaking. If its cross threaded, I’d buy a new stem.
Either cut a slot in it for a screwdriver or file/grind two sides flat for mole grips
Pair of grips be able to get that out. Loads of room for jaws to get on it.
Grab a pair of pliers and just unscrew it
Screw 2 nuts onto the broken bolt and then unscrew the inner one.
Vice or mole grips and then just twist/turn it out gently… unless it’s cross threaded normal pliers would probably do it as well.
Vice grips or a pipe wrench. But it looks cross-threaded and you might have other problem on your hands – will that thread still be in decent condition.
I come across things like this daily in my job. Usually caused by one of three things: cross threaded, corrosion, or if it’s stainless (which this appears to be), over tightening can gall the threads.
If you don’t care about paintwork, you can use a flame to heat the stem (not the bolt). The part heated will expand slightly, so if you heat the bolt, it’ll only get harder to extract. If you prefer to keep the paintwork, use a hot air gun but be careful as to how close you get- it can still lift paint.
Use wd40 or similar on the threads, and turn out with some mole grips. If the mole grips are spinning, either tighten them up more, or grind some flats into the thread and use a spanner.
Sometimes a sharp strike to the end of the sheared bolt with a hammer, can shock the thread and loosen it up a bit.
I would also run a tap down the threaded hole once you get it out too- just cleans the internal threads in case it was cross threaded or there was debris / corrosion there.
I’d also not use grease on the clamping faces- it’s likely meant that you’ve had to tighten the bolt more than it was designed for.
If it was one of those aftermarket stem mounted aluminium holders don’t, they’re made of the softest alu and will eventually snap while serving a critical purpose in the integrity of the cockpit!
I sometimes use a drill and just clamp the bolt into the drill chuck. Tight it as much as you can! Maybe this helps
I assume you already tried twisting it out with your fingers? Not being facetious, sometimes they come out real easily.
If vice grips slip, I’ve sometimes had luck wrapping the threads with a rubber band to get a bit more traction/grip once you clamp the vice down- would probably by my first plan of action before busting out the heavy duty tools! If you don’t have a heat gun as mentioned above, hot water might also help.
Plenty of advice on how to remove the bolt here. The question is how you prevent this from happening in the future. Could indeed be a weak bolt but you’d more likely just round out the head if that was the case. How much are you torquing the bolt down? Should only be 5-6 Nm on most stem bolts.
The answer is always Vice Grips. They are known as locking pliers in the USA.
Why do you have puncture protection liquid in your stem?