After extensively using the bikedoc bars on and off for the past few months I decided to cut them after having to retighten my stem over and over again and hearing a big crack.
First I used a specialized comp multi stem which immediately broke my first set with only tightening them to 3,5nm. In the meantime I tried to use the exact same bars on a zipp service course sl stem, which in the first place they don’t recommend you using however, since my bars were already cracked I wanted to see what the effect would be. And that made it even worse.
After receiving a replacement bar I was afraid to use those stems again and switched to a deda superzero stem and a pro plt stem which are known for spreading the load. The bolts however kept coming loose which I therefore had retightening again and again to 3,5nm till I heard a big crack.
After having the bars for 8 months and having them left on the side I decided to cut them since I didn’t want anyone using cracked bars and this was the result.
Both bars cracked at the top, one which slowly started to crack over a prolonged period of time and one immediate failure. Clamping force is the same as the white arrow however most faceplates exerts a force similar to the pink arrow, both edged of my faceplates where right on the turquoise line. They both started to delaminate and shift, which eventually ended up cracking the bars all the way through.
It appears that the bars on the top right side have a weak spot which you can clearly tell by the epoxy layer. For anyone who is not so familiar with carbon layup, if there’s a white line (orange arrow) in your carbon layup it means that it hasn’t been compressed well enough which leaves room for epoxy to stay behind.
I suppose that this could occur with anyone using these bars since both my bars have this weak point where the thickness of the carbon is the thinnest and where the bladder didn’t do it’s job properly allowing the carbon to delaminate and shift at the place of my picture.
Do what you want with this information but I just be aware when using these bars.
by THMLSLI
11 Comments
ez fix: alloy or steel bars
Yeah, i got these and they look good and feel nice for longer chiller riders, but prefer my drops for actually riding daily, skids ands similar. For some reason the more i used them the less i liked. Also always feels dodgy when tightening with the stem, never heard a big crack but def see that it’s pressure on it
Good info, thanks. After finding a crazy injury in almost every cheap carbon bar review section, I think I’m good with alloy for now
OP, I didn’t notice any mention of a torque wrench. How are you tightening to spec?
Carbon is not always better than alloy, especially for handlebars. Cheap carbon is either dangerous, or dangerous and not much lighter than alloy.
Don’t cheap out on carbon bars and stems especially. Seatposts also for that matter. A full set of false teeth is not worth it.
Thanks for the post, good to know.
Yikes 😬
When you pry it from my cold, dead hands…
https://preview.redd.it/9yadjlozbytd1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0f61653cba85ae1a18c13ecf27253990ef973bd7
what is the point of the fake hoods?
Fyi, they were already aware of this happening to certain people and have added an aluminum sheet at the clamping areas
I have them on my track bike and haven’t had any issues through half a summer of racing. I saw the comment about now having an aluminum portion to support the clamping area… maybe I’ve got that version…
Don’t they make sloped flared drop bars for fat tire bikes and over achievers all you need is some electrical tape and some like 6 1/4” diameter acrylic rods to make your palm rests before you tape your bars?!