Yep, I would get a replacement 50t chainring and call it good.
gyatout4therizzler on
How did you manage to do this?
Just by the picture I would say you can just get a new chainring. Crankset seems intact no? Might have to re-adjust your front derailleur a bit though. 😛
historicalad20445 on
Just get a 50t 5x110mm chain ring and you‘re good
owlpellet on
Pull it off using the five bolts visible. Look at remaining ring/spider for left right wobble. If it’s mostly true, good. If not, bend it back (off the bike) or replace it. You need to match “BCD” or bolt-circle-diameter, and the number of teeth.
oldfrancis on
I would just replace the chainring.
2-wheels on
Yes. Easily. Critical bolt pattern dimension (110) is stamped on the ring.
If you can’t get exact same brand you may want to change the middle ring at same time so they match. Some setups have ramps and other devices that work together to promote gear changes.
Don’t have to remove crank to replace outer ring.
Feisty_Park1424 on
You only need a new chainring however I would use this opportunity to assess if these are the right chainrings for your riding. If you decide to change chainring sizes it’s often cheaper to get a complete chainset. Shimano make the best shifting chainrings on the market, a GRX or 105 crank would be a good upgrade if the ring sizes suit you
LoathsomeNeanderthal on
those bolts can be pretty stubborn because of the thread locker, apply some heat if needed
NewSuperSecretName on
There’s a good chance that the root cause of the chainring failure is one or more loose chainring bolts. Before you take it apart, try to identify the loose one(s) and carefully inspect those holes on the cranks. If all is good, you should be able to replace just the chainring, but it’s easy to imagine that you need new bolts, and maybe a new crank.
BradleyAz1979 on
I just came here to ask if there is any way you can measure your power wattage in a sprint because man… that is some SERIOUS power!
gdvs on
With the power you have in your legs, maybe consider a bigger chainring. That’s impressive.
garciakevz on
Replace chainring(s) sometimes they come in a set of two so just buy two
fizzgiggity on
I’ve replaced these multiple times. These FSA rings bend easily. I’d recommend eventually upgrading the crank.
SoMuchCereal on
I just bought a used mt bike with this same thing – hammered the big chainring back into place, good to go, I’m not entering races or anything.
ErynorErthor on
I have a nearly identical FSA Gossamer crankset on my bike and recently replaced my chainrings. It is a 6mm Allen key on the inside of the bolt and a 5mm Allen key on the outside. Mine was a set of 110BCD rings, I counted the teeth and they installed in 5 minutes and had me rolling again.
chris_ots on
I bought a SRAM ring to replace my FSA recently, happy with it.
16 Comments
Yep, I would get a replacement 50t chainring and call it good.
How did you manage to do this?
Just by the picture I would say you can just get a new chainring. Crankset seems intact no? Might have to re-adjust your front derailleur a bit though. 😛
Just get a 50t 5x110mm chain ring and you‘re good
Pull it off using the five bolts visible. Look at remaining ring/spider for left right wobble. If it’s mostly true, good. If not, bend it back (off the bike) or replace it. You need to match “BCD” or bolt-circle-diameter, and the number of teeth.
I would just replace the chainring.
Yes. Easily. Critical bolt pattern dimension (110) is stamped on the ring.
If you can’t get exact same brand you may want to change the middle ring at same time so they match. Some setups have ramps and other devices that work together to promote gear changes.
Don’t have to remove crank to replace outer ring.
You only need a new chainring however I would use this opportunity to assess if these are the right chainrings for your riding. If you decide to change chainring sizes it’s often cheaper to get a complete chainset. Shimano make the best shifting chainrings on the market, a GRX or 105 crank would be a good upgrade if the ring sizes suit you
those bolts can be pretty stubborn because of the thread locker, apply some heat if needed
There’s a good chance that the root cause of the chainring failure is one or more loose chainring bolts. Before you take it apart, try to identify the loose one(s) and carefully inspect those holes on the cranks. If all is good, you should be able to replace just the chainring, but it’s easy to imagine that you need new bolts, and maybe a new crank.
I just came here to ask if there is any way you can measure your power wattage in a sprint because man… that is some SERIOUS power!
With the power you have in your legs, maybe consider a bigger chainring. That’s impressive.
Replace chainring(s) sometimes they come in a set of two so just buy two
I’ve replaced these multiple times. These FSA rings bend easily. I’d recommend eventually upgrading the crank.
I just bought a used mt bike with this same thing – hammered the big chainring back into place, good to go, I’m not entering races or anything.
I have a nearly identical FSA Gossamer crankset on my bike and recently replaced my chainrings. It is a 6mm Allen key on the inside of the bolt and a 5mm Allen key on the outside. Mine was a set of 110BCD rings, I counted the teeth and they installed in 5 minutes and had me rolling again.
I bought a SRAM ring to replace my FSA recently, happy with it.