Day 225. 55km (82262kms 7yrs)
With a slightly achy head we had a quick breakfast together before I continued to the west. One of the best things about Warm Showers is the local knowledge and advice hosts can provide. I had planned to head directly to Arles, but was recommended a nicer route incorporating several pretty villages including Baux-de-Provence.
In Salon-de-Provence I was unable to visit the free castle, being closed in Tuesdays, as was Nostradamus’s house in the centre of the old town. But simply gazing up at the pretty, brightly painted shutters made it a worthwhile stop. I also stocked up at a budget supermarket, marvelling at how much cheaper it was than in Corsica. In fact everything is easier here; abundant wifi so I don’t have to go grovelling to cafes who know I’m not about to eat there, extensive bike lane networks, and drivers who patiently wait until they have a truly enormous amount of room to overtake. Let’s just say I’m delighted to be on the mainland.
The road passed by fields of olive trees and grapevines and lines of those tall and elegant Provencial conifer trees. Utterly flat all the way until I began the small climb about 3kms out from Baux-de-Provence (from where we get the word bauxite). Built up in the chalk hills of the Alpilles (little alps!) the once stately town was all but abandoned by the late 18th century until it was rediscovered by early tourists, resulting in a campaign to preserve the remains. Barely 20 people live there now according to the last census and the shops are exclusively artisanal offerings catering to tourists, but I am glad of course the village such as it is has been preserved.
With plenty of forest nearby I didn’t worry much about finding a camp, but was surprised to pass by waterlogged fields of rice on my way to pitch the tent. After some lovely stays with hosts and a night on the boat, it had been a few days since I last camped and I found I had missed my tent. Opening a bottle of Bordeaux – which went very nicely with the strong blue cheese I’d bought – I went to bed a very happy camper.
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#france #provence #cycling
5 Comments
Good to see you again and wish you a
wonderful day
😊
Mainland France looks to be a cyclist’s perfect destination. 😊🚴🏼♀️
I absolutely agree with you about the quality of roads and driving manners in France. In the UK that White Van Man would have made it a point of honour to clip your ear with his wing mirror as he passed. It's always a breath of fresh air when I take my bike to France, and I mean that also in the literal sense.
I'm planning to visit the Alpilles next week (or when the Mistral is done). I always see them from a distance when cycling but never went there. So thank you for your nice impressions! 🙂