I had some parts lasered and did a little mockup today. Seems to work out pretty good. I had 5 disc tabs laser cutted for future projects. First will be a Trek 950 frame that i want to convert. The red Aluminum frame is just to get an idea of the whole thing and see if my universal disc tab part is big enough to some material off.
Thinking about offering disc conversions as a little service for fellow Xbikers here in Germany (NRW) – I‘ll keep you updated after I converted my own frame!
by Ok_Relation_7506
8 Comments
I soooooooo want to try this on my 94 Gary fisher Tassajara
https://preview.redd.it/0tve24z8jkrd1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccc0e492c3520d66b1d89da8bf6dc55e13413977
What is the real world cost of converting a metal frame to disc brakes in the rear? I’m guessing front fork conversion is a much easier process.
Where did you get the measurements?
Spending far too long trying to figure out what its purpose is 🤣
Am I right in thinking you’re fitting disk brakes to a non disk frame?
Could you not just fit the wheel/disk, line up the calliper and weld where they touch?
Given disc brakes create considerable torque (far more than rim brakes), other than QR clamping force, what prevents the adapter from rotating around the axle when caliper pads engage the rotor? Also, what keeps the adapter/caliper in place when the rear wheel is removed? Not to be critical, but this looks like a lot of faff for not much benefit. Cantilever and Vee brakes are damned powerful already. What benefit is this disc conversion convey that doesn’t exist with a canti/vee setup?
Not a mechanical engineer but while I love the idea, it feels scary. Thru axle would be more robust
If you mount it like that and pull the brake, the brake pads will clamp onto the disc, and the momentum of the disc will rotate your fixture around the axle, pull it inbetween your frame and the wheel, destroying your rim, the frame, bending the disc and ripping off the brake hose.
You need to add an arm to the metal bridge that mounts to the frame in order to translate the torque momentum coming form the disc via the brake shoes into the frame. The farther this second point of contact (second mounting point) is away from the axle (center of rotation), the better.
Do not use this as intended, you will destroy your bike and if you are fast enough, the crash might leave you with some injuries. I take you are not an engineer?
Meanwhile it takes me 2 days to set up a drivetrain and brakes.