11 Comments

    1. Too secure, you’ll never be able to unlock it in time to get home for Jerry Springer re-runs. I recommend re-routing the cable through the second U-lock attached to the post.

    2. If you can find a way to put that U-lock through any of those triangles on the seat stay then you’ll be better. Otherwise you’re asking for those cables to be cut and someone making off with your bike

    3. ShamefulAccountName on

      Nooooooooo! That thing will be gone in a minute. Cable locks are easily cut. A heavy duty bike chain is a much better option.

    4. Lol. No. Always put the bar around part of your bike.

      In this case, I’d turn the bike around, back it in, lock the back of the frame to the post. Also loop your cable through the front wheel and then loop it around your U-lock so no one can steal your wheel.

    5. No

      I don’t think anyone has explained why however.

      **Your U-lock is not a padlock.** You want the most secure part of the lock (the U-lock) to form a link between the stand and a part of the bike which cannot be removed or cut through (without rendering the bike useless/unsellable) – this is almost always the frame itself.

      The cable can also be attached to the u-lock and then threaded through one or both of the tyres – these can be removed and then sold if someone cannot just take the whole bike.

      If it were me I would reverse that bike into the stand then attach the unlock through the rear part of the frame (the green part below the front of the bench – and then run a cable through the front wheel. Sorry I would post a picture of what I mean but images aren’t allowed in comments

    6. Honestly they wasted a bunch of money on that lock. A combination master lock that they sell to school children for gym lockers would be more appropriate. The lock doesn’t need to be much stronger than that cable.

      If they’re going to lock up like shit at least save some weight and money 🙂

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