Recently cracked a rim and got tire sealant all over my car. Took it through a car wash, but soap and water didn't touch it. Now I'm trying to get it with isopropyl, but it's not doing much either. Any ideas?
I’ve witnessed (and committed) a few acts of sealant exploding at the bike shop I worked at.
Best way we handled it – 1:1 simple green, a scrubber, and elbow grease.
eponymousmusic on
Base ingredient in most sealants is latex or glycol, so you need something that dissolves latex.
Isopropyl evaporates too fast. Acetone could work, but you have to wash off any excess immediately after to avoid impacting the car paint.
ChuckFinli on
Lol idk fuckin wipe it down with a towel? And they say there are no dumb questions…
product_of_the_80s on
Detailing 101 is least aggressive to most. After all of these steps, thoroughly rinse the area with water and wash with soap. Stay away from plastics, as the more aggressive products might discolor or damage trim pieces.
Start with car soap with physical agitation, like a wash mitt or soft brush. Something you’d feel comfortable using on your face.
Next step is same soap, but with a bug sponge. Looks like a jersey knit cover for a regular sponge.
If that doesn’t work, you can try something like stoners tarminator, or another automotive tar remover like citrol 266, sprayed on a microfiber towels.
From there I would try a body shop prep-solvent, usually near the body shop supplies at AutoZone etc., on a microfiber.
Next steps are claybar and / or polish to physically remove it, but at that point I would call a local detailer.
Charming_Reserve_904 on
It will just come off with regular cleaning methods latex doesn’t exactly adhere to metal or glass. Just like if it sprayed on your bike frame
7 Comments
I’ve witnessed (and committed) a few acts of sealant exploding at the bike shop I worked at.
Best way we handled it – 1:1 simple green, a scrubber, and elbow grease.
Base ingredient in most sealants is latex or glycol, so you need something that dissolves latex.
Isopropyl evaporates too fast. Acetone could work, but you have to wash off any excess immediately after to avoid impacting the car paint.
Lol idk fuckin wipe it down with a towel? And they say there are no dumb questions…
Detailing 101 is least aggressive to most. After all of these steps, thoroughly rinse the area with water and wash with soap. Stay away from plastics, as the more aggressive products might discolor or damage trim pieces.
Start with car soap with physical agitation, like a wash mitt or soft brush. Something you’d feel comfortable using on your face.
Next step is same soap, but with a bug sponge. Looks like a jersey knit cover for a regular sponge.
If that doesn’t work, you can try something like stoners tarminator, or another automotive tar remover like citrol 266, sprayed on a microfiber towels.
From there I would try a body shop prep-solvent, usually near the body shop supplies at AutoZone etc., on a microfiber.
Next steps are claybar and / or polish to physically remove it, but at that point I would call a local detailer.
It will just come off with regular cleaning methods latex doesn’t exactly adhere to metal or glass. Just like if it sprayed on your bike frame
Magic Eraser
D limonene Will do it and not harm the clear coat on your paint. One product I use for such tasks is this one, also this gallon will likely last you years. It’s great for getting sticker residue, sealants, lots of things off of product without damaging them like acetone can. https://www.jondon.com/matrix-reg-citrus-force-asd-mx-cfasd-gp.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=21352431488&hsa_acc=1905229250&hsa_cam=21352431488&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiuC2BhDSARIsALOVfBKYX_unFN4HUoKwMNbhZr0gN6sXVOqFPQwn2EcCtSXgQDiQxBARQZcaAns1EALw_wcB