Balkans Cycling Adventure – BCA. Cycle Day 4: Štip to Skopje, North Macedonia. 88km 659vm.
A long and adventurous day. Leaving Štip, we needed some running repairs on one of Greg’s bags. Finally on the road again, cruising along the incredibly wide, flat valley with increasingly large-scale agricultural operations and lots of vineyards higher in the landscape.
Excellent road with a wide, clean bike/slow lane for us. Our real adventure began when we trusted Komoot’s mapping and changed our previously planned route to one that supposedly meant less climbing. The road we turned into seemed fine, some traffic, but a quiet country road. We had pulled over for a break when a taxi driver pulled up & said something to us & shook his head. Indicated we should go back & go through the town that we had avoided. Unfortunately, we put our trust in our route and not in the taxi driver (even though we were not really sure what he was saying). The road was lovely – getting higher, vineyards, a couple of small villages. We knew we had to get over a forested hill to reconnect with the planned route taking us north to Skopje. At the last village, the road ended, a track lead us behind the last farmhouse, we kept to our route following our blue line (with great trust) to the point of no return. First very steep down, through a gully, rubbish tip, and up a long steep muddy hill. Walking all the way & part carrying the bikes. It had rained overnight & the track had turned to very sticky rutted clay (peanut butter). Wheel totally clogged up. Sticks & squashed tin cans were the tool of choice to try to scrape the clay off before it dried. This was the worst part, but then we continued on for 15 km of part walking, part riding, hoping our blue line would eventually put us back on a more reasonable road. Of course it did. Bonus we got to see a number of tortoises crossing our road, swarms of butterflies near every puddle and constantly serenaded by the birds. Back on a road, our ride profile was now showing flat all the way to Skopje. Approach was through quiet back roads and outer villages, then straight into the centre of the city along a wide boulevard. Double decker buses – I remember being amazed that they were here when I visited in 1981. The city which spent millions on massive monuments and sculptures to try to attract visitors. Very central apartment with little signage to identify it. More bike handling skills needed as it was up in a lift which would only just fit 1 bike on its tail & 1 person. Even then had to twist & shuffle as the double doors had to be closed from the inside. 2 nights here. Another day to explore Skopje.
Skopje the Capital of North Macedonia. One of the oldest cities in Europe. Pop 500k, pop of North Macedonia 2m. A busy & vibrant place being at the junction of 2 international corridors on the River Vardar. Macedonia Square, the Stone Bridge (6thC, 12 arches Karmeni Most). Ancient settlement of Scupi (Illyrian tribe). Multiple enormous monuments and sculptures. The birthplace of Mother Teresa. A massive earthquake in 1963 devastated the city (80%) and much has been rebuilt in a very grand style creating more space. Skopje is known as the ‘city of statues’.
Cycle Day 4 of 45 over 10 weeks cycle touring covering 2400km in a loop circuit of the West Balkans in Europe through 8 countries. Connal Kit for all your cycling touring clothing. Connal Tours European Cycling Tour 2024. connalkit.com.au 2May2024.
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