Some tips from a Darwin local.
Take home message: Victoria Highway was well worth the effort and the Stuart Highway is really sketchy.
Written on a phone so apologies for format/spelling etc.
Day 1 Darwin to Batchelor 98km
A nice day to ease into the tour. I was finished by lunch time. There is a great cycle path on the old train line that takes you to Coolinga on the outskirts of Darwin. Then it's straight down the Stuart highway.
If you haven't been to Darwin before – you can take the "back way" to Batchelor via Berry Springs, Walker Creek and Wangi through Litchfield National Park. It's a stunning bitumen ride I have done several times before. It doubles the distant though. 180km approximately but you could shorten it by finding a place to stay in Litchfield NP. Well worth exploring.
Day 2 Batchelor to Pine Creek 170km
A long day but anything to avoid riding on the Stuart highway. There is a lovely quiet road from Batchelor to Adelaide River. Adelaide river is a pleasant roadhouse and a nice shaded grassy area for a break.
You will probably want to do this ride in the dry season (May-August). Anything out side of that time will be very hot and humid – like dangerous heat exhaustion country if you are not heat acclimatised. Unfortunately the prevailing winds in the dry will mean a strong head/cross wind until Katherine.
The Stuart Highway is very unpleasant and really quite dangerous. In the dry season, traffic on Stuart Highway is a nightmare. The speed limit is 130km but it's no autobahn. A single-lane highway with no separation of opposing traffic. Caravans going 80km/hr, roadtrains at 100km/hr, big V8 SUV’s doing 130km and the occasional idiot doing 150km/hr plus. Limited to no road verge either. Frustrated drivers overtaking each at those speeds. Lots of deaths from head-on collisions.
Note: the NT as 3 times the national road mortality compared to the rest of Australia.
From Adelaide River, I took the bitumen Dorat Rd scenic bypass between to Pine Creek. Again well worth it although long at 130km with no water stops. The weather was unusually hot and humid. 33 deg Celsius in the shade and very high humidity in the tropical
sun with radiant heat coming off the road. I managed to heat stress myself despite being being heat acclimatised. Just managed to not actually vomit.
When you are heat stressed your stomach stops absorbing fluid which makes your dehydration worse. When you are dehydrated, it's harder for your body to fight the heat. It's a viscous circle that can catch you unaware really quickly – it's like a tipping point. Vomiting is really bad sign. If you can’t rehydrate by drinking, it’s still hot, you are in the middle of nowhere and you are by yourself, it can get pretty dangerous pretty fast.
Anyway I managed to get through by finding some shade and taking small sips of water. My resting heart rate was more than double what it usually is at 125.
I also use salt tablets. Having low salt in your body (hyponatraemia) is probably more dangerous than just dehydration. Hyponatraemia is another story that I can post about if anyone is interested.
I arrived in Pine Creek which is another nice place to stay. There is a shady campground and a pub. I had quite a "heat hangover" which meant I was too nauseous to have dinner. I just slowly rehydrated with sips of water.
Heat hangover:
https://www.thermalhyperformance.com.au/post/introducing-the-heat-hangover
Day 3 Pine Creek to Katherine 90km
Felt a little better in the morning. It was a short day and I knew I'd be finished before lunch and the afternoon heat. Stuart Hwy was a
nightmare as expected. The roadtrains are not the worst. They are experienced professionals to be driving a vehicle that's over 50m long. If they can't overtake you safely, they will generally honk and give you plenty of time for you to get off the road and wait for them to pass. The occasional idiot car driver will pass close to you at 130km/hr plus which is really scary.
"K-town" is a major tourist centre. Time to stock up at the only supermarket on the trip. Katherine George is nearby and well worth a visit.
Day 4 – Katherine to as far as I can. 179km.
The fun started as I turned west onto the Victoria Highway. Immediately a little bit more verge, less traffic, less roadtrains, predominantly large SUV’s towing caravans sitting at less than 100km/hr. The "grey nomads" in their big rigs doing the "lap"
of Australia were on the whole friendly and courteous. They are a diverse bunch of retirees doing the "adventure before dementia" or "spending the kids' inheritance"
and good on them. There are a few SADS – "See Australia and Die". They are unwell, possibly with a terminal disease, who are try to tick off their bucket lists, and it is indeed sad but hat's off to them.
Planning the trip came down to water points and weather. I left Katherine at dawn known the next definite water stop would be at Victoria River Road house 197km away. Carrying 13L water in case I had to dry camp that night.
A tailwind and forecast cooler weather (31 deg and importantly less humid) meant I was able to cover 179km. There are official roadside rest areas, some cater for camping and have water tanks (which can be dry so don't rely on them).
https://nt.gov.au/driving/safety/road-rest-stops-in-nt
My average speed picked up to 25km/hr and I covered 100km through the wet/dry open savanah woodland before lunch. I think there is a lot to see and hear if you look and listen.
At about 150km, I entered the Victoria River District (VRD) country. The sun was getting lower and the scenery was spectacular after 6hrs of monotonous damaged cattle county.
I stayed at a lovely National Park run roadside stop called Sullivan. No water there but it was clean, shaded, grassy and a single drop toilet.
Day 5 Sullivan to Timber Creek 107km
I crossed Victoria river bridge 17km into Day 5 and had a cheese and ham toastie at the Victoria River Roadhouse. That place is absolutely pumping in the dry season. Traffic now is predominantly now all large SUV's towing even larger caravans. They usually gave me plenty of room on the road. They travelled slowly 80-90km/hr. They offered me cold water, fresh food and the usual light hearted Australian banter, when I stopped. The country 30km either side of the Victora river bride is superb.
The highway skirts the Judbarra/Gregory National park.
https://nt.gov.au/parks/find-a-park/judbarra-gregory-national-park
There are some special day walks in the area I have done in the past. Highly recommended.
The forecasted weather was living up to expectations with a strong 20km/hr dry SE tailwind and temperatures less than 30deg now. Type 1 fun for sure. Average speed increased to 26km/hr as didn't need carry as much water.
A SE wind is the predominant wind in the dry season but you can't 100% rely on it.
Timber creek is the only town between Katherine and Kununurra. Again in the middle of the dry season it was also pumping. The queue for fuel at the only station was 100m long.
I stayed at the busy caravan park there. There was a nice shaded grassy spot for for my little tent and lots of the nomads came over and we had some interesting chats.
I had a pleasant shower and washed my clothes there.
Day 6 Timber Creek to "Saddle" official roadside rest area. 117km
The good weather continued with a strong tailwind. Averaged 26km/hr again with enough water for a potential dry camp. There are quarantine rules at the NT/WA border so nomads heading west were getting rid of excess fresh food. I was offered fried eggs and tomato for morning tea at one of the roadside stops which was greatly appreciated and enjoyed.
"Saddle" was what you would expect. My tiny little tent surrounded by maybe 30 huge SUV/8m caravans. There was water, overflowing toilets, rascist graffiti and litter. The caravans often seem to form a rough circle, like first settlers in the US heading west. Almost like they are hiding from the overwhelming size of the country around them. I went for a nice walk and found a little stream and a tiny bit of First Nations rock art.
Last Day: Day 7 110km "Saddle to Kununurra
Ongoing perfect weather with mild temperatures and 20km/hr tailwind. Only carrying 4L water and I've eaten almost all of my food. Gas canister is half empty.
Scenery is now getting drier. Not so much savannah woodland anymore. You get a sense you are skirting around the WA great deserts to the south.
Crossed the NT/WA border with a 90min time change. Just 40km to go. Sitting at over 30km/hr. Some hills for interest and into Kununurra for lunch. Average speed 28km/hr.
In summary – a big double thumbs up for the Victoria Hwy. Stuart hwy…not so much.
Thanks for reading.
by VO2max64