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    In todays episode we restore this Peugot Premiere pulled straight out of a skip and into our shop! We fitted new bottom bracket bearings, new headset bearings & new wheel bearings, along with fully detailing the frame and servicing the 5 speed components…

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    hi and welcome back to bike speeds this week we’re going to restore and service this peo road bike it’s quite grimy it’s very very tired cables air worn out a lot of cobwebs the story behind this bike is it was actually put in a skip and a customer of ours took it out of the skip brought it into us and asked us if we wanted it and we thought it would make a great video so we’re going to clean this bike fully up we’re going to fully service it going to do the wheel bearings headset bearings bottom bracket bearings all the cables brake pads chain really resurrect this bike and make it ridable again and hopefully it will continue its Journey which was destined to end in a skip so this rear deria as you can see is a little bit sticky it’s not flicking back nice and easily so we’re going to address that with the cleaning and lubricating process on that one the rear wheel had a big Buckle in it it was rubbing on the brake as it went around so that was not able to ride very smoothly would have made a terrible ride and that could well have been the reason why this bike ended up in a skip but we’ll sort that out as well naturally this bike is quite an old bike you can see here that the tires have perished and deteriorated they would be quite unsafe to ride they could break down and break up that surface can come off so we will also replace the tires and tubes as we go now you can see with this front brake it’s actually rubbing on the wheel and also the actual pad itself is a little bit high you can see here it would have been rubbing when the tire was inflated rubbing on the tire so we’ll need to address the position of that brake block to make sure it’s not rubbing on the tire and then it is actually operating on that braking surface there on the wheel now you can see how these cables have deteriorated in the hoods these brakes were very very hard to pull and this left hand one was a double-handed effort to pull that so the brakes would have gone you wouldn’t have been out of stop this bike the wheels would have been rubbing and it’s ended up going to the recycling but we’re going to stop that happening initially I’m going to take everything off the bike so you can see here I’m undoing the front wheel that comes off the back wheel we’ll take that off because we’re going to do quite a bit of work on those and obviously we’re going to recable it so we can cut these cables off take the deror itself off of the bike take the cables off and then start our cleaning process so there’s just a hidden cap there and we will remove the rear deria that’s now off the bike and you can see here how grimy that rear deria is this bike has done its miles in its day so we’re going to clean all that up and see if we can resurrect that component and make it work as smooth as a day it was new so you can see the cables are tired they’re kinked they’ve formed the shape of the components that they’re in so we need to address those with fresh cables I am going to undo these brake blocks on the bike it’s just a little bit easier you can use the leverage that you’ve got the frame and the bike to undo those it just makes it easier to whip those off before we actually take take the caliper itself off the bike so we’re now going to do that so off comes the caliper the rear one first that comes off the bike and now we can do exactly the same with the front so I’ll remove those pads remove the cable and then remove the caliper from the bike so I’m just cutting those off there’s no need to worry about how they come off because they are being replaced so we can just cut those and then take the caliper off of forks themselves you can see here again very dry very tired these Lube needs cleaning and we will do that as we go along on the process next up we take off the pedals so they were quite simple to come off they weren’t a problem at all and now we can take off this chain set now these are cot pins they are notoriously hard to get out there are some problems with these at times but I find if I heat up the pedal arm itself it will just loosen the bonding of that in the component and I can just tap that out with one sharp bash and that will come out so out comes the cot pin itself and we’ll do the same on the other side but that chain set now comes off and you can see here there’s a buildup of grease and debris around the teeth the inner part there is quite dirty it looks at this stage as if that’s really really tired but once we clean that up what a huge difference we can make to that and the way that presents so off comes the left hand pedal arm the same and now we’re going to undo the lock ring and remove the bottom bracket from the bike and also this cup was a little bit tigh but we did get that undone and that now comes off as well so we were glad that both cups came out you can see here the grease how we’ve got buildup grease around the bearings it’s very thick and congealed that’s probably where the bike sat for many years and it’s run round to the bottom of the bottom bracket congealed there so it’s no longer operating around all the bearings so we’re going to refresh that grease put in new bearings and that will then work perfectly once we’ve done that so out come the brake cables from the hoods you can see here how the outer of these brake cables is completely deteriorated you can see how the inner is going rusty there it’s not going to work an operate at all very very common on bikes for these to deteriorate so we’re going to address that now this bike was quite unusual in that it did actually have an internal rooted top tube brake cable so I put guide through there because I’d imagin that if I didn’t have something in there to help me relocate that cable it would be quite a tricky one to get through at the other end and you can see again on this front great cable here how the outer has just deteriorated and perished away the inner is going rusty there and that also needs replac it so we’ll get those cables out we’ll use those for guides for lens new ones and that will be perfect next up we’re going to remove the handlebar tape we actually have got to take the hoods off of these handlebars which I’ll show you the reason for that you can see here that The Handlebar itself is actually bent you can see how that’s kinked and twisted so we need new handlebars on this that probably has been jumped on in the Skip and has bent those I can’t imagine it went in already bent like that but we do need to address that so we are going to replace these handlebars so off come the brakes remove both sides so they’ve got a little Allen key in there that I can just undo to slide those off so they come off and next up we can address these panel bars I actually find with something like this it’s easier to do this on the bike because you can use the bike itself to help you get those components off so rather than taking this out and doing it on the bench it’s just a little bit easier to actually do it on the bike so out comes the stem and now we can start to take things apart that we’re going to clean and start to deal with lubricating all these various components that have come off of B so first off we’re going to take the deria apart so we’re going to remove the cage remove the jockey Wheels remove all the little Springs there that are in that so as that all goes down to its component form and then we can clean that off and rubricate it so everything now goes in our Ultrasonic Cleaner you can see the components there we’ve got fresh solution in there and you’ll be amazed when we turn this on how it lifts that D out of these components so just watch this discolor and that Blackness draw out of that I mean that’s amazing isn’t it I never never get tired of watching that amazing how you can draw that dirt off a component so these are now out of the ult Sonic cleaner and now we just wash them down with warm soapy water dry them off with a microfiber tow before we relate them but look how clean they’ve come up you cannot do that with brush and water alone the old Sonic Cleaner really gets deep in where you can’t do that physically with a brush so we may do them in more than one run they may not all be done in the same run but everything is cleaned through look at this chain set look at the way those teeth are so shiny and the Chrome that is the lovely thing with these older bikes the Chrome really stands out on its own it’s amazing what difference you can make just cleaning these bikes up next up we’re using our premium grease on the jockey Wheels this we do in a syringe as you can see there we actually sell these on our website so if you do fancy getting yourself a syringe set like this they do make a job like this very very easy and a lot cleaner to do it with in terms of the application so I’m just using a general purpose grease here on the pivot this goes through the jockey wheel and holds the derer together so I put a little bit of general purpose grease on there and now I can start to rebuild that deria with all the freshly cleaned and lubricated components so it’s a little bit of a fiddly one this in comparison with the modern deria but we got that together nicely and we used a little bit of a locktite on the threads to hold those together as well so you can see now that that is absolutely operating as it should it’s nice and sprung so that’s ready to go back on the bike use a little bit of a premium grease on the spring that’s tucked in there and then I’m going to lubricate the pivot Points with a nice thin general purpose oil that we have there in our syringe selection I always with any adjusters use copper grease on the threads that will stop those corroding and bonding and then I often just dab a little bit of general purpose grease where the cable sits so that when you are turning that it lubricates the cable and stops IT binding as you’re turning it just makes a smoother easier operation when you’re adjusting your brakes and I use a little bit of silicon grease there on the sliders of the brake again with the levers little bit general purpose oil in the pivot Points of that to help that actuate when you’re pulling the brakes now I am putting on new brake blocks and I do do those on the bench I get them in their rough position just helps with setting it up on the bike now these pedals were quite tricky we couldn’t actually take these apart to deal with the bearings in these the cap on the end was pressed on and it was basically a non-serviceable part in terms of the era that this was produced so we clean that up with some wire wool and then I’m just going to pour some oil into the bearings that I can get to to help rubricate the oil oils and greases that are already in there you can see here between the left and the right what massive difference just a clean up and a little bit of oil on the bearings can make there was absolutely nothing wrong with these pedals the bearings haven’t worn out they were running okay but they probably got dry with age so that’s why we put that little bit of oil in to help that next up we’re going to deal with this freehub a lot of people don’t realize that those clogs can often come off of a freehub like this it’s not a separate concept can undo the lock brain and remove that these are the cogs that come off of that free Hub it’s only a 5-speed quite old school but we’re going to clean those up as well and also put new wheel bearings into this bike at the same time so out come the hubs let undo those they’re a little bit sticky and tricky to get off but once we had got them off we could clean up the threads and they went back together very very nicely once we completed the work so out come the bearings off come the bearing caps I want to get those off so I can really clean up inside there and clean the cups and then these will go through ultronic cleaner now that spoke protector I couldn’t quite believe how clean that came up look how clear and see-through it is in comparison with when it was gray and dirty from before we put it in the ult Sonic Cleaner I was really quite surprised how that cleaned up and that sort of detail that really makes a huge difference to a restoration of this nature and the way the bike presents once it’s finished so you can see here the cogs again they’re cleaning up they’re looking great everything about that is nice now you can hear here how the freehub is actually operating quite nicely we tried all we could to take this apart to do the bearings on this but really they’re a non-serviceable part from the factory we need to just clean that up as best we can we couldn’t get it apart to do the barings and actually I stock these they’re very very cheap to buy so they’re almost a non-serviceable part but for the generation of the bike and the fact that the bike is quite old I wanted to keep this original Hub and as you heard there it wasn’t sounding too too bad so there was no need to really throw it away and replace it simply because we couldn’t get it apart so I’m adopting the same process as what I did with the pedal I’m just putting some Thin oil in that I hope will work down to the greases that are in there and soften them up so that it works even nicer once it’s on the bike and that’ll probably go thousands of miles before that needs to actually be replaced next up I’m going to clean the bearing cups themselves so you can see there a little bit of wire wool and a degrease of spray to really blast it out and blow it out and a nice fresh microfiber towel to really get that grit out of that cup so that I know that when I put the bearings in everything is going to be smooth and clean next up I’m going to wash the wheel down so I’m just checking all the spokes as I’m doing that cleaning off the rim itself using a little bit of wiw on the rust to clean that off to really make it shine and then dry it off with a microfiber towel and next up we can get the bearings in so fresh premium grease on the bearings you can see that will hold them Against Gravity but it’s a nice buttery grease it’s a lovely grease that we use we can pop that on the bearings and they will operate and run very very smoothly with that grease we can now put the axle back in there’s nothing wrong with the cones or the axle itself so we’re going to put that back in put on the lock rings and make sure that everything there is correct and feeling okay and then we can just lock that bearing off and that now is absolutely spot on just using a little bit of our copper grease on the threads before I put the spoke protector and hub back on the bike so on goes the Hub on goes the spoke protector just lock that off now I can put those cogs back on and I’m using that general purpose grease there to stop them bonding or rusting to that Hub so if ever we need to take them off again we can so it’s still serviceable in the future before putting the lock in COG back on there and lock that off so that’s now ready to ride now obviously the tires were very very perished on this bike so we’re also going to replace both the tires and the inner tubes on this one it made no sense to reuse them rubber perishes with age so we don’t know how old tubes or the tires are so we’re replacing both so in goes the new inner tube on goes the new tire and we’re quite happy with the way that is now we haven’t used a very expensive Tire on this because the bike’s not got a lot of value to it so we just want to make it ridable again so you can see here I’m just checking the tensions on the spokes you can see the two graphs there the before and after how we can get the tensions all within 10% of each other and we get the green tick so that’s as the wheel presented with tensions all over the place once we’ve gone round the wheel you can see we’ve got that pretty reasonable really especially given the age of the wheel and that it been in a skip I think it’s h quite good next up we’re going to deal with a headset so you can see here the bearings were very very tight the handlebars weren’t flowing or free so we need to address those headset bearings as well and in fact when I did take these off you’ll notice that some bearings fall out the bottom and the the top is a race you can see there a few bearings fell out into my hand from the bottom and we have this race in the top this probably would never have been like this where you’d have a bearing race in the top and loose bearings in the bottom I’d imagine at some point the bottom ones have been replaced and these have just been relubricated but we’re going to replace them all so we’re going to clean up the cups was quite surprised with these these came up lovely they had a little bit of surface rust on them but once they’ve been cleaned they were like new so they were spotlessly clean and then we’re also going to clean the cups same Principle as with the wheels we just use a little bit Degreaser and then I’m using some wire wool there to really clean them up make them nice and smooth there’s absolutely nothing wrong with those they don’t need replacing they’re part of the heritage of the bike and everything ran perfectly fine once they were done so we just clean up those cups inside and out and then also the steerer tube we’ve got obviously the cup on the bottom there that the bearings sit on and then the tube itself and the threads at the top hold it all together which just going to use use a wire brush on those to clean those threads through so that everything will go back together nice and smoothly and then a little bit of degrease of spray and a wipe down with a microfiber towel so the principles is the same whichever bearings we’re doing again we’re using our lovely premium grease on the race itself brand new bearings I think it was 25 in the top 25 in the bottom so quite a few bearings there I don’t use bearing cages on something like this I’ll use loose bearings I favor that because you get more bearings in the race you’ll certainly notice it here in the top one you get more bearings in the race which means you actually get more support for the thing that’s running through it be that a wheel axle bottom bracket axle or in this instance the stero tube running through you just give a little bit more support and on an older bike like this I think that works better than putting races in with bearings in a cage so we’re now popping on the top of that we’ve adjusted it up tighten it up and we’re quite happy with that next up we’re going to wash the frame down we’re using warm soapy water and and our detailing brush we sell these detailing brushes on our website along with a lot of the other stuff that we use in the videos this comes in a pack of five we also sell the super slick cables that we use you can buy those individually or with the outers and all the ends that you need we sell the polishes that we use everything really that you see in the videos we do sell on our website so do check that out we’ll put the link in the description below it also helps our Channel if you buy something from us it’s just a way of us financing the channel and what we do here anyone who has ordered this month thank you very much you don’t realize just what a difference an order like that can make to us so I’m now drying down this frame with a microfiber towel a nice way of drawing that water off and then I’m going to use a super resin polish by Auto glim to polish this Frame down amazing what a difference this makes it really begins to make this Frame stand out so this will get off a lot of the road film and the dullness that you get on a frame before we buff it off with a microfiber towel so we’re just putting an application on there down each of the tubes nicely working them when you’re polishing like this when you rub your fingers on it you can actually feel the surface of the paint as you polish it it gets a smoother feel to it it’s now beginning to feel nice and soft on the fingers nice and Polished and then what we are going to do with this bike is we’re going to Ceramic spray it once you’ve Ceramic spray your bike you won’t go back it makes them feel so smooth to the touch it stops deing rad film water from sticking to that frame it just allows that to run off the frame better when it gets wet makes it easier to dry off your frame afterwards and it stops the dirt adhering tightly to dry paint next up we’re going to put the old bottom bracket back in but with new bearings so we put our premium grease in there Ando the new bearings a little layer around the top just to hold those as I put it together in the bike so the same on the other cup press G grease fresh bearings and then I’ll put the second layer of Grease around there again it just holds them Against Gravity stops them dropping out of the cup when I actually put it into the bike I’m going to put a little bit of copper grease anti seiz grease on the cups themselves so that protects the threads which means if ever we have to take this apart again it will come apart much much easier same on the other side a little bit of copper grease in goes the axle and then we can put the second bearing cup in with those bearings already in it and that goes in nicely again you don’t need the races in there we can just put the loose wall bearings in tighten that up everything’s looking good now we’re going to clean the stem going to use a little bit of wi W on that there was quite a little few marks on this that we wanted to clean off so we used a little bit of wire wall to get that nice and clean and then wipe that down with a mic fiber towel and we can start to pop that into the bike and build up the bike so we just tighten that up nicely now we’ve got our new handle bars going in there these are actually an aluminium one with a nice little shiny scenter which sort of fits the bill for the bike having that aluminium stem and we’re quite happy with that now we can get the chain set on I mean look at that chain set look at the reflection on that it’s quite incredible sometimes when I’m doing these bikes you you get lost in the moment especially with filming it takes a long while to film these videos we sort of spend you know several days doing one bike and you can lose sight of where the bike was and where the bike’s going but when you see this in the edit and you see it coming together you realize what a significant difference you’ve made to the bike and the way it presents and how clean it is and how well lubricated it is yeah I always enjoy these edits when I watch them back so on goes the pedals I’m quite happy with those we can now pop the red on tighten that up make sure that’s okay on goes the shifter this is obviously on the down tube so it has this little adjust here this is a friction shifter isn’t like a modern one with the indexing you have to do it by f as you change gear so there’s a little bit friction on that shifter and now I can pop the brakes on you can see I’ve got the brake blocks roughly in the right position fresh bolts in on this bottle cage here which we reused the original bottle cage just cuz it had that white plastic on the tips and look quite nice part of the history of the bike and was actually correct for the era of the bike so on go the brake levers themselves get those tight and once I have put them on I’ll torque those up because once the cable’s in we can’t get in there to check that’s okay and then we’re going to put fresh handlebar tape on here we’ve actually used a COR handlebar tape on here with a little bit of cushioning in it that original tape is actually quite hard to get a hold of and it’s so so thin it’s just literally like a plastic strip going over the handlebars so very uncomfortable to ride with so we made that a little bit more comfy and a slight modernization on the era of the bike but one which I don’t think anyone ever complains about now we’re going to get that top tube cable through that nice bit of early internal routing so that’s now through I’m quite glad that that goes through there because I think that would have been a problem to have done if I hadn’t got my guide in there and now we can get the new cables onto the handlebars themselves so we’re doing front and back brake cables and obviously the deria cable so we’ve got fresh cables there and we’re using our super slip cables these are our stainless steel cables which I’ll talk to you about when we do the shifter for the deria get those Brakes in get them roughly in their right position so I kind of know roughly where they were when they came off and tighten those up same on the back and then once the wheels in I will actually adjust those to where I’m quite happy with the position that they’re in we use a little cable guide here to snip off the cables that way I know that I get all of my cable ends the same length so you can see there gives me a guide that I can know that each of my tails are the same front back and also the deria so this is the original deria cable here you can see that measures 1.37 mm it’s a galvanized steel cable so it started to go Rusty on the a but it’s quite a thick cable it’s not tightly wound so it’s a little bit rough to the touch and this is one of our super slick cables so you can see here how much narrower it is it’s got the same amount of strands in it but they’re just wound tighter they’re rolled tighter at the factory so they’re much much smoother when you run your fingers through them if you took a a forefinger and a thumb and just ran it along those they’re very very smooth cables they’re great for any bike not just a vintage bike like this we use this on all our internal routed bikes all our road bikes all the bikes we service day today we use these super slick cables they are a lovely cable and that’s why we use them so that’s now on we can knit that tail off the same and again you can buy these on our website in kits or individually so do check that out on goes the wheels now on goes that front wheel that’s perfect on goes that back wheel with that lovely clean cassette and spoke protector and now we’re popping on one of our lovely chains this is an 8-speed chain that will do 5 six s and 8 speeds great for vintage bike Restorations again you can buy those on our website so finally everything’s back together the deria Springs up and down the gears nicely the wheels finally turn freely and the brakes pull great so that’s every problem sorted out on this PUO and what a massive difference on these before and afters just look at the difference we made to this I really really get a lot of pleasure out doing a bike like this so thank you to the customer that thought of us when he pulled this out of a Skip and brought it into us as you can see we can make a massive difference to a bike everything now is working perfectly brakes are working perfectly gears are shifting nicely tires are fresh bearings are fresh huge difference this bike can now do hundreds if not thousands of miles before it needs servicing again and what a difference we can make to a bike like this just look at these wheels even the subtle differences of cleaning that rust off headset the same little bit of rust detailing and what a massive massive difference the bike is Absol abely ready to ride so I hope you’ve enjoyed this video please do subscribe maybe drop us a comment about your vintage bike and what your riding in the Vintage world I know most Riders tend to have a a sneaky vintage bike tucked in their collection so do tell us about that as well I think you’ll agree we’ve made a massive difference to this one so thanks for watching I hope you’ve enjoyed this video and we will see you again very very soon bye for [Music] now

    24 Comments

    1. I had one for 10 years.
      They where the best.
      Especially the original ones made in France…..other one where produced under license elsewhere….so-so.
      Glad to see one coming back alive.

    2. Awesome video. There are several specialty tools that are used and there is quite a bit of knowledge that goes into this restoration to be done nicely. I have a 80's Peugeot I'd like to restore/clean up. How much would a bike shop in Los Angeles charge to do all this? How many hours job is this?

    3. Uncle gave me this bike when he got a new bike back in the 90’s. Rode it everywhere for years until the colored kids stole it from Burger King while I was eating.

    4. Been for couple of years with Mtb's ( and some bmx in 90s 😉 but wanted some cheaper option just for commute/groceries as single speed and got myself 90s frame (Swiss Titan Exklusiv i think its SL tubing ) it was so much fun to just decipher what it was and to build it up and man that ride so comfortable on 25mm tires just flows thru roads compare to 2,4 inch tires on mtb ;D
      Thank you for sharing !

    5. Good that you changed the old handle bars, even if they still look O.K., vintage bars are ticking time bombs. p.s. and the new ones become vintage after few years….. rinse and repeat.

    6. I really wonder why the break levers that can be used from the top bar have disappeared. Since I had an accident where I was in the wrong position to grab the break lever immediately I am actually a bit too much of a coward to grab the top. If I cannot reach the break from the position I am in, I will not take that position.

      These levers would make the top position suitable again.

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