Borkum, Ostfriesland und die Niederlande: Mit dem Fahrrad die Ems entlang | Wunderschön | ARD Reisen

Alles Friesisch oder was? Daniel Aßmann macht eine Fahrradtour von Borkum an die Ems und lernt dabei Land und Leute auf der holländischen und der ostfriesisch-deutschen Seite kennen. Rund um die Emsmündung und den Dollart entdeckt er die Gemeinsamkeiten und Unterschiede der beiden Nachbarländer. (Mehr “Wunderschön” findet ihr in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/wunderschoen-borkum-ems?yt=d )

00:00:00 Begrüßung
00:01:22 Borkum
00:08:44 Seehundbank und Nordsee-Aquarium
00:19:06 Seenotrettung und Heimatmuseum
00:22:45 Reiten und Radtour
00:35:33 Von Eemshaven bis Lauwersoog
00:43:17 Lauwersoog
00:47:23 Fahrradstadt Groningen
01:04:23 Appingedam nach Emden
01:10:59 Überfahrt nach Emden
01:15:30 Seehundstation Norddeich
01:27:26 Verabschiedung

Zwischendurch wechselt er auch mal das Gefährt: Er rast mit einem Strandsegler, einem segelgetriebenen Kart, das bis zu 100 km/h schnell werden kann, über die Sandbank des Borkumer Strands. Auf dem Festland spielt er den Vorkoster für die Seehunde in der Robbenstation in Norddeich.

Die Region um Emsmündung und Dollart besticht durch die Nachbarschaft der Niederlande mit dem deutschen Ostfriesland. Heute stehen sich die Friesen auf beiden Seiten der Landesgrenzen nah. Die deutsch-niederländische Geschichte der Region war jedoch nicht immer so friedvoll. Jahrhundertelang war die Gegend rund um die Emsmündung und den Dollart umkämpft. Teile des Dollarts, die Meeresbucht an der Grenze zwischen Deutschland und den Niederlanden, wurden im 17. Jahrhundert durch Eindeichungen trockengelegt, und so entstanden neue Ländereien, die von beiden Nationen genutzt wurden. Im Jahr 1648 wurde der Westfälische Frieden geschlossen, der den jahrzehntelangen Krieg zwischen den europäischen Mächten beendete. Die Region rund um den Dollart wurde dabei als gemeinsames Gebiet von Deutschland und den Niederlanden definiert, das von beiden Seiten genutzt werden konnte. In der Folgezeit kam es jedoch immer wieder zu Streitigkeiten und Konflikten zwischen den beiden Ländern, insbesondere im Hinblick auf die Schifffahrtsrechte. Erst im Jahr 1960 wurde der Ems-Dollart-Vertrag geschlossen, der die Zusammenarbeit in verschiedenen Bereichen regelte. Insbesondere die Nutzung der Ems als Schifffahrtsroute wurde dabei neu geregelt. Der Vertrag gilt bis heute als wichtiger Meilenstein in den deutsch-niederländischen Beziehungen. 2014 wurde dieser Vertrag zuletzt nochmal erweitert.

Gefällt Dir unser Kanal? Hier kannst Du ihn abonnieren: https://bit.ly/2LK9bB0
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
Weitere Infos:
► WDR Reisen: https://reisen.wdr.de
► 2 für 300: https://www1.wdr.de/verbraucher/freizeit/uebersicht-zwei-fuer-dreihundert-100.html
► Wunderschön: https://wunderschoen.wdr.de
► Mediathek: https://www.ardmediathek.de/reisen
▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
#borkum #wunderschön #urlaub #reisen #ardreisen

Ein Film von Dieter Schug. Redaktion: Christiane Möllers. Der Film wurde im Auftrag des WDR für die Sendung “Wunderschön” im Jahr 2022 produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Wunderschön produziert Reisedokumentationen für den WDR. Es werden Reiseziele auf der ganzen Welt vorgestellt. Wunderschön versucht Menschen, Kultur, Kulinarik und die Landschaft des jeweiligen Reiseziels zu zeigen und gibt Tipps für die Planung des eigenen Urlaubs.

We go out to the North Sea. The first destination is Borkum. From there we are around the mouth of the Ems, visit the Netherlands Lauwersoog and Groningen, on the German side the East Frisian Greetsiel and Norddeich. And as I said, we start our journey on Borkum.

At the mouth of the North Sea the Ems is several kilometres wide. Habitat for many animals. East of the Ems estuary lies East Frisia, very idyllic, sometimes funny, sporty or both. The Dutch have it nice too. In the middle of the province of Groningen lies the city of Groningen.

Young, cutting-edge and at the same time classic Dutch. Both from the Netherlands as well as from East Frisia there are ferry connections to Borkum. An island for those seeking relaxation, Sports enthusiasts. * Music * And a paradise for seal fans. Come with to Borkum and the Ems.

Subtitle: WDR mediagroup GmbH on behalf of the WDR * Music * The Parachute Club Münster has already been to Borkum 25 times, to parachute over the island. Markus Suer is since 1999 skydiver and has over 3,000 landings behind him. Jumping here is special opposite the home square. It’s a bit tight there.

We have at Münster our jump site. Sendenhorst is a smaller town, next to Münster, 15 km. We have room there. There we have rented an area, a meadow. And there they jump and land. And why here on Borkum now? Simply to have a highlight. We make our training camp here. – I see.

Now for the 25th time this time. Simply to see something different, not only the rape fields with us. Seaweed is also quite nice for a change. Jumpers land on the beach on designated pieces, far enough away from the many holidaymakers in their little beach shacks.

By the way, normal beach chairs they are not here. I haven’t seen them like that before. – It’s a Borkum quirk. What I have seen so far on the I have seen on different islands, is that we have such a Borkum’s unique selling point, a beach hut…

Beach hut is that what they call it? – Yes. Beach tent, and you are more protected than just on the beach. The advantage they told me have of the beach tent, is, you can fit more things in. When in the evening goes home again, one needs not lug everything around.

Put a board like this in front of it. Typical Borkum, then, the beach tents already exists here since the end of the 19th century. Since then they have also been produced on the island. * Music * Borkum town lies in the west of the island. The people here

Lived for centuries of agriculture and whaling. Until the middle of the 19th century. the seaside resorts came into fashion and through tourism changed everything. Standing on the beach A whole series of “milk stalls”. These are also a Borkum speciality. Before me all ordered rice pudding.

Did you get hungry? – Then I’ll bring us one too. And I asked, whether it’s a tradition. They stated, they used to be such milk stalls. Set up by the farmers, who sell their milk or milk products have sold so that people do not dehydrate here. Yes, that used to be the thinking.

I thought, come on, out of tradition. But for now, let’s have a toast. Sea Buckthorn Spritzer, I Drink for the first time, I’m curious. Cheers. Very tasty. – Yummy. It’s going really well now. Look, here we already have guests. Mmm. Yummy. Goes even in the warmth now, the warm rice pudding.

We are, after all, on holiday. But when I look around, there is enough space for everyone. Or is it tight? No? It’ll get lost. This is going very well. Although we had really good weather have, it runs its course. – Yeah, right? Weil is the largest East Frisian Island.

Absolutely. – A lot of space here. Where there is a lot of space, you can also well organise ball games. For 25 years, Borkum has been making a name for itself in a name in beach volleyball. Already since 1994 tournaments are held here. Recently there are the BEACH DAYS on Borkum,

Where sports, music, but also party. I played a little bit, not for a long time. I also have not played for a long time. Do you still have 2 places available? * Music * Diligent. * Music * No. Nice finish. We have to leave it like that. Thank you.

In the evening one meets on Borkum for a sundowner on the over 4 km long Beach promenade. Those who prefer it quieter, rather on the fringe. * Music * Really something going on is rather at the bandstand, who is already here has stood for 100 years.

Then in the evening often live music as well. * Music * Tomorrow we look at the seal bank. Not far away you can learn beach sailing. Then we still make a visit to the Borkum Aquarium. * Music * Sometimes they are there, sometimes not, purely a matter of luck.

But if it does, it’s great. You can get this close to animals rarely experience in the wild. The seal bank lies directly in front of the north beach and is a nature reserve, Entry strictly prohibited. From 200 m away you can observe the animals here. This is as close as you should get.

Seals are not dangerous, but who tries to touch them, can be bitten badly. * Music * The animals make themselves comfortable, around in the sun To fill up on vitamin D. They need that for the change of her hair dress. * Music * Maria Oetjen is out crabbing.

The needs the leader of the North Sea Aquarium for their fish tanks. * Music * Quite a lot going on, down there on the seabed, millions of crabs live there, small fish and crabs. Some of these will be presented in Maria Oetjen’s aquariums grow big, and others, well, unfortunately fed to the fish.

* Music * Actually North Sea crabs are not crabs at all, but shrimps. So strictly zoologically speaking, but no one here cares. Here they are called crabs or sometimes garnet. * Music * Maria pours out part of the booty into the tank for new arrivals. They stay there until they are bigger.

The animals always move up, from one basin to another. At some point they are in this large basin. And everything that then becomes too large, is released into the wild, comes back to nature. * Music * Surprisingly beautiful and surprisingly diverse. Here there are only animals from the North Sea. * Music *

Here I grow little plaice like this, there are already one-year-olds in here, there. This is a big one. Then I have here another big one… …velvet crab inside, he has red eyes. That’s a great way to see it. * Music * And also starfish are plentiful in the North Sea.

They eat love mussels for the rest of their lives. And crabs, what do they eat? Depending on the species, some like prefer algae and bacteria, others prefer Mussels and snails. With the beautiful calm fish world it’s over, by the way, when there is something to eat. Maria feeds the crabs, she caught.

It is important that the animals retain their hunting instinct. After all, they should be reintroduced into the wild. * Music * The stars of the aquarium are the lobsters. They actually change colour. Depends on the external conditions. (Maria) With us they have this light blue. In nature they are up to night black,

And they can also go as far as brownish. After cooking, they are red. But here, of course no lobster cooked. Once grown up, they are allowed back into the sea. It comes from the fishing boat. It was very small. So it really was that small. But we have three lobsters here,

They are simply too many for our aquarium. Therefore we must now release one into the wild. And that will be him here. He always ambushes me, when I’m working on the pelvis here, you have to be careful. Oh no, it’s raining. Good weather, bad weather, it’s quick here.

Everybody knows that, who was once on the coast. Here, hardly anyone can be persuaded by impress the little bit of water, and especially not when there is a tournament. Today is BORKUM BEACH DAY, Beach volleyball with a top-class line-up. Here it goes for a tidy prize money

And also for the qualification to the German Championships. * Music * (Commentator) And then we will spoiled with a rally like that. * Music * Only 300 m further and you are almost all alone on the road again. Only a few particularly hard ones dare to enter the water. * Music *

Before we start, very briefly, you have to be able to wear it, right? Looks good. Yesterday, the weather was still perfect, and today like this. The sun is gone, but the wind is there. – This is the North Sea. We can use the wind today.

Because if you want to sail, you need wind. But we do not do that today on the sea, but on the beach. The sailing device for it we build together here. * Music * How quickly can you maximum with the parts? It always depends, on driving skills, Ground conditions, wind strength.

But at its peak, such a sailors sometimes reach 100 km/h and more. Okay. We let ourselves get closer pull to the water’s edge, because the ground is harder there. An introduction into sailing 101 I got from Justin also already got. * Music *

(The way you’ve got the sheet straight… it is enough that it rolls. Not too fast, but it rolls. If you like, you can start, to pull the shot a little. Then you will realise, we will become faster. Keep it loose, so it won’t be so fast yet. * Music * Jo. (laughs)

Let it go already. Sure, with the wind right I don’t have it yet. But finally I about 1,5 h ago the 1st time sat on a beach sailer. But running. * Music * (laughs) Boings. Mega, hammer, was really fun. And especially as a beginner you can achieve super-fast success.

I’ve done quite well here. – Yes. – It was fun. It looked really good, how you drove. Only the parking we still have to practise. We do that then next time. Thank you very much, it was a lot of fun and especially in this weather a great alternative.

Gladly, Daniel. It was a lot of fun with you too. * Music * When it’s dangerous on the water the sea rescuers have to get out. “SAR” is written on the bow and means “Search and Rescue”, so search and rescue. Between 60 and 90 times per year The Borkum

Sea rescue cruiser out for use. But in 1995 it was the lifeboat itself, which had an accident. What had happened? On 02.01.1995 the a severe hurricane hit the North Sea, as the sea rescue cruiser Alfried Krupp received an emergency call. During the operation, the ship was caught by a monster wave.

2 employees lost their lives in the process. In earlier times are around Borkum many more people died at sea. In the local museum, the Dykhus, you can learn more about it. This is what the lifeboats looked like 100 years ago. The Otto Hass was built in 1894.

The thick canvas on the edge should avoid the collision with ships in distress prevent. 66 people are have been saved by this boat. That’s what it says here so calmly. But when you look at the dramas have taken place here, that’s pretty gross.

With horses the lifeboats were drawn to the beach back then. Everything had to be go very quickly, like today. The rescuers rowed, They didn’t have engines yet. So that they do not capsized so quickly, were later air-filled boxes installed in the bow and stern. The North Sea brought much suffering over the people.

At the same time, however, the sea also the source of prosperity. In the 17th and 18th centuries many Borkumers went whaling. Those who came back alive, are thereby often have become quite wealthy. The whale skeleton at the Borkum Museum of Local History but does not date from the 18th century,

But from a sperm whale, which in 1988 washed ashore dead. At the cemetery, a few metres from the museum, are still the graves of some of the whalers. In the evening the weather then beautiful after all. * Music * Riding. That’s it for tomorrow. Not so fast, of course like these experts here.

So, it’s a done deal, tomorrow riding, maybe even on the beach. And then we go for a bike ride over half the island. * Music * (woman) To the front, make sure she doesn’t trip. Then look ahead. When you give a horse head-on into the eyes, they usually stop.

So just look there, where you are going. Then they usually come also already along for the ride. Horse is used to that, that the boss calls the shots. But the boss must first know for themselves which way to go. So, for example, like the one with the steering or with the brakes. Good.

Good. And stop once. Outside, yes, that’s good. Aha, yes, exactly. Yes, there you go. Yes, sir. That’s easy, to get a feel for the horse. It’s a good exercise. Wonderful. If you want to go left, i.e. you want to stay on the outside, you take your left hand back.

For a ride in the dunes you should actually be able to do more. So Andrea rides in front, not much can happen. By the way, Susi is the name of the extremely dear horse I am sitting on. She already knows that. We are a super team, I would say both of us.

Yes, that looks good. So at least she participates a lot. * Music * 1 HP. On Borkum. * Music * What would a visit to a North Sea island without a mudflat hike? On Borkum there is a particularly nice mudflat guide. I always walk like a penguin, because they claw their toes a little at the front and are thus more slip-resistant.

You learn a few things on a mudflat hike, For example, there are no penguins on the tidal flats. But for that live in 1 sqm floor here thousands of crabs, mussels, Snails and lugworms. * Music * For many birds, this must be be like a land of milk and honey. Food full.

Most of the time Albertus Akkermann during his mudflat walks the accordion with him. One of his favourite songs: “Übers Meer” by Rio Reiser. ♪ Day after day blows past us. Get the boat in the wind. ♪ ♪ And a kiss and a day in May. Don’t be sad, my child.

So many years and that’s how many stars it must have been, since we are outside on the sea. Sunflowers and dandelions… ♪ What makes Borkum for you to the great island? Maybe compared to others, what you have already seen. So, just the vastness I find totally beautiful.

And because the island is still relatively small, you also have the whole infrastructure relatively close together. I.e. one is anywhere within 5 min. Whether you want to enjoy the peace and on the beach in the dunes. Or if you fancy a coffee with friends in the city. Probably is too, what holidaymakers appreciate.

Borkum is 10 km long and 7 km wide. Once around by bike can be managed. Behind you see the Dutch mainland. Exactly, right. That’s all Holland. There’s another bird island, but it is uninhabited. These are the salt marshes.

Since we here on the Wadden Sea also High tide and low tide, that is, have tides, that is indeed the case, that then at high tide the water runs in closer and closer. And then actually in like little river sleeves in here. And the plants that grow here,

Are all plants, that cope well with salt water. * (BIRD CRIES) Someone is complaining from the bush. – That would have to be the pheasant. Exactly. – Do you think there was a pheasant? That was a real pheasant. I recognised that by the reputation. (laughs) I find, is the right time,

To have a quick bite to eat. I’ll give you half, then you can try it. You can eat it just like that. Wow, that’s salty. The salt water pulls there actually in. And that becomes here also used in the kitchen. When you eat steak here, there are a few restaurants, who offer this.

I have seen, that’s all Nature reserve, right? Absolutely. The salt marshes, there is No trespassing, of course, because these are also bird protection zones, you’re not allowed in there. A special bird protection zone is also the Tüskendörsee. 20 ha filled with brackish water, so not fresh water and not salt water,

But a mixture of both. Many birds love just that. On Borkum breed and live over 100 bird species. * Music * Entering the areas around the lake is prohibited. But from the dyke you almost always see birds, best with binoculars. * Music * * Moo *

And on the other side of the dyke even more birds, who are here undisturbed find their food. The further east you come to Borkum, the fewer people are on the way. * Music * Hanna loves the island. She is in Cologne born and raised and a few years ago decided to move here.

She is, as we have noticed, become a Borkum specialist. We stop at Café Ostland. Hey, hi Hanna. You know each other? – Yes, we know each other. We haven’t met yet. I am Daniel. – Hello. And? – Jan. What’s your name? – Sabine. That’s interesting.

A memory game with which you can Borkumer Plattdeutsch can learn. Rietsticken is quasi matchstick. – Mmm. It’s great for learning. – Yes. Just the thing for us. Sabine Homering is Borkum’s Low German Commissioner become. Although she doesn’t come here at all, but from Warendorf in Westphalia. It’s nice that you’ve joined us together.

The Jan is a great lover of Low German. If Jan doesn’t know that, no one knows. We have many things already made together. And, yes. – So the walking Platt lexicon here on the island. It’s pheasant sherbet, this is Borkum sea buckthorn schnapps. The name comes from a little bit, and that is that pheasants eat, that run through the present here, also already times the overripe berries. – Okay. So you see one or the other Pheasant strumpeting through the area. My suggestion would be, whoever wins…

Nah, whoever loses pays the round. We can do that. – Yes, come. This is important here for all holidaymakers. Ne Hüüsje is the toilet, very good. Now I just have to find the German toilet. No, the molar. * Music * Fietse. – Fietse is known.

You know the drill. – But I know more like from the Dutch. But we are not far away from Holland. Accordingly, the language… – …also influence. – Exactly. Do you speak a few words like this already by now? You understand more and more, you know a few words too, you use them too.

My family says, that I am a naturalised citizen here and they hear it that I don’t use any more Cologne words. But I don’t speak Platt now. Klunt… Kluntjeknieper? – Kluntjeknieper. Is that what… I don’t know the device at all. (laughs) Do you know Kluntje? – Nah.

Kluntje is the little sugar cube, Candy sugar, which is drunk in East Frisian tea, and that would be the pliers to go with it. It was an easy game now. But I think at the end, when I look like this, let’s compare. I think the schnapps is on you. – To me.

I can still drink it, can’t I? Or do you want both? Cheers. I’m really curious. Lots of vitamin C. – Yes, you see. Exactly, shall we another one for health? The sea buckthorn is also called the lemon of the north. Its vitamin C content is even higher than from oranges or lemons.

Originally, sea buckthorn comes from not from Europe, by the way, but from Nepal. Where is the beach, where the islanders themselves go? In my opinion, the Beach in the East Country the most beautiful. It is very natural and very extensive. And especially for dog owners or even islanders,

To switch off a little and to walk long distances, is the one in any case very much worth seeing. Until the middle of the 19th century. Borkum still consisted of 2 islands, the West Country and the East Country. Not until they built a dam, the islands were connected.

The largest part of the settlements has always been in the West Country. So here in the East Country it was always a little quieter. * Music * Bye-bye Borkum, we have to move on. With the Borkumer Kleinbahn we go to the ferry port. Many holidaymakers leave their cars back on the mainland.

During the summer season Several areas on Borkum are closed to cars. * Music * * (announcer speaking indistinctly) Geachte dames en heren. Name rederij AG EMS heet de kapitein en bemanning u van harte welkom aan bord van de Münsterland voor de overtocht van Borkum naar Eemshaven.

The ferry brings us to Eemshaven in the Netherlands, the shortest connection to the mainland, namely only 18 km. From Eemshaven we then drive by bike along the coast to Lauwersoog. * Music * Hello. – Hello. Daniel Aßmann, hello. – Jan-Klaas Vißer, hello. Then I’ll call it a boss’s chair. Looks great.

Is everything going according to plan? – Yes, definitely. How long do we drive from Borkum to Eemshaven? The journey time is 50 min. Is this a difficult stretch of water for you as captain? Basically, that’s how it is, that this is already a very is a challenging body of water.

The past also shows this, that there are a lot of ships here have gone under. That is already one of the Ship cemeteries here. – Yes? Hundreds of ships are here in the last centuries sunk. Because in the past the shallows were in the sea for the skippers often much heavier than today.

In addition, the shipping lanes of the North Sea e.g. in the German Bight or along the Dutch Coast in the direction of the English Channel and belonged to the busiest sea routes in the world. Today, they are largely safe. But in the past have on these water routes

A lot of people lost their lives. * Music * And if ships are not capsized by storms or shoals, they were perhaps attacked by pirates. The best known among them was Klaus Störtebeker. At the time, he was said to have been Hamburgers captured and beheaded there in 1401. * (crowd cheering)

After all, you come from Borkum. – Yes. Did you dig in the dunes? – Nah. It is said that on Borkum actually another treasure of Klaus Störtebeker. When you are there, bring a shovel, then you can have a look. * (announcements in dutch) * Music *

Now we are in the Groningen region on the road, the most northwestern province the Netherlands. A lot of flat land. Or let’s say, a lot of flat land. * Music * As idyllic as it seems, is not everything here. In 1959, a huge natural gas deposit discovered

And soon also mined in large quantities. But among the residents of the region was the joy about the gas quickly evaporated. After a few years of dismantling the earth suddenly began to shake, and these earthquakes became more and more violent. Hello Daniel. Welcome. – Yes, thank you very much.

Wait, I have to off my bike. Hello. How do I say… I have all the time. How do I say hello properly? – Hello. Just hello? – Yes. That’s easy enough. Elma Middel shows us at her farm the consequences of the now over 1,000 earthquakes in this area.

This one is a real crack, which was included in the first investigations are rejected. Goes on here, eh? – Yes. And then here is the window and between all these stones. And here… – Yes. Well, that’s actually not to be repaired. – Mmm. When such cracks appear,

You really notice it, so earthquakes coming here? Yes. – Yes? – Yes. You can tell, when you sit on the chair, like a big truck passes, when you are sitting somewhere. That’s exactly how it feels. – Yes, that’s what it feels like. And how do the earthquakes occur?

Gas decomposition will Rock layers porous. The earth sinks and it shakes. So, here we have a crack. Here we have a crack. Here we have cracks. And this is all from the earthquake? – Yes. Here we have cracks. Every window… – Yes. – …has damage. (rooster crows) No.

Actually, Elma wanted her farm sell, as a retirement provision. But who buys a building in an area like this? Elma makes the best of it. She grows wine? I am amazed, that this works. Yes, everyone is very puzzled. Do you have enough sun? They said I was crazy, when I started this.

But it goes wonderfully, really. Okay. – In here? – Yes, please. We are already expected here. – Yes. He is always there. – He is always there and totally relaxed. Yes, it always is, where the work is. Not quite relaxed. Where the work is, look at it. And watch nicely, eh? – Yes.

And says you’re crazy. What survives can come off? – Yes. Badass here, okay. All manual work. Are you doing all this on your own? – No, no. I have lots of friends. – Yes? From the village here and friends, who are all volunteers… Yes, they help.

Yes, and the reading too, right? – Yes, but that’s only 2, 3 h. Yes. – And there are 40 of us. Ah, okay. – And then we have a party. I see. Everyone wants to do the harvest with me. – I think. Is this one coming out? – Yes.

No. – Was it the wrong one? Oh. Elma sells her wine to restaurateurs in the region. Who passes here, can also try it here. So, now we both understand each other. That’s another one. – Yes? I see. I don’t even need wine, not to recognise it.

I didn’t think so, that the wine here works. Neither do I. How do you say thank you? – Thanks. Thanks. – Cheers. – Cheers. Cheers. – Cheers, exactly. * Music * * (squeaking) The gateway to the infinite expanse. * (squeaking) Needs to be oiled. We drive towards the coast to Lauwersoog.

Lauwersoog village and harbour has only existed since 1969, because that is where the land became, as is often the case in the Netherlands, by embankment wrested from the sea. For fisheries it is a significant place. We go out on the cutter with and somehow have the feeling that we are being watched.

* Music * This is not an attack, but a foray. The flock of birds is waiting, that Klaas Bouma is catching up with the net, because that’s where the goodies are. The catch is now being sorted, in this machine. The little ones here are crabs. The little fishes go overboard again,

So that they can swim away. This is a small plaice. And will it survive? – Yes, she is still alive now. Then she goes straight into the machine. In the machine, she will survive that too. After that the little fishes go overboard and can swim away. If the seagulls aren’t faster.

On the crab cutter everything runs automatically. Select, clean, cook. And after half an hour the crabs are almost ready to serve. The only thing is that they have not yet been reeled in. The gentler they be treated on the ship, the better is the quality in the end.

So off to the fridge first. And these make on to the next crab cutter. In the protected areas as in the Wadden Sea is fishing with trawl nets, such as crabbing works here, disputed and should even be banned. The fishermen are afraid, then lose their job. 80% of the crabs go to Morocco.

The others will be here machine-pulled. Most crabs are therefore harvested in Morocco. Lower hourly wages. More ecological, but it is also more expensive, when they are harvested on site. Catch today, in business tomorrow, that is possible here. When they are brought to Morocco they are on the road for 3 weeks.

Pulping with the machine we would have liked to have seen as well. But how does that work? Trade secret. Pity. Tomorrow we are in the city of Groningen, look at student life around the university at and one of the most spectacular museums Europe. * Music * Groningen calls itself a cycling city.

In the ecological infrastructure the municipality has invested a lot and makes a sensation with it. In other respects, too, the venerable City young and modern. Of course we also do a city tour by bike. By my side the German-Dutch Sarah Barth-Boshuizen. * Music * Is in Groningen Predominantly cycling weather?

Well… – Not so? So in general in the Netherlands we talk from kikkerland, from frogland, because of the wet conditions. But it has already become much warmer the last few years in summer and much drier. But you ride in wind and weather Bicycle here? – Yes, always.

What strikes me, You don’t ride with a helmet here. Nah, that’s typically German. When I am here see someone riding with a helmet, I know it’s a German. Only if you are a racing cyclist, then you do it already. Or on an e-bike. But because it… Why is that?

Because it’s uncool, doesn’t look cool? Because it’s… – The feeling of freedom in the hair. Yes, of course, that is restricted. What do we have here? – This is the university. Yes? – Not bad, is it? This is the main building the university. Did you study here too? – Yes.

How many students does Groningen have? It’s a student town. We have almost 70,000 students at university of applied sciences and university. With how many inhabitants? – 205,000 in the city. Yeah, think about it. Groningen is also the youngest city in the country with an average age of 36 years. – Cool.

* Music * The main building is now too small for the many students. This is how the Uni also in other areas of the city extended. There is a numerus clausus not in the Netherlands, not even for German students. You get to start first, but must perform, otherwise you’re out.

Groningen has a vibrant student life and is sought after as a place to study. Logically, flats here are scarce and expensive, Sarah tells us. The tuition fee is higher than in Germany. Sarah, I trust you now. You see them everywhere. – Yes. But I have never dared.

Is that suspicious to you? – Yes. I always think how long this is already in here. It’s fresh. It always comes back fresh from the deep fryer. That’s OK. – It’s okay, yeah? What’s going on here? What is “Joppie burger”? Burger is clear, but Joppie? That’s meat, different things.

We want that don’t really know. So, we’ll leave that one. – We’ll leave him. Kaassoufflé is fried cheese, for example. This is for the vegetarians always interesting. But our speciality, Daniel, is the Eggbal. Eierbal? – You can only find it in Groningen. Fried egg.

We always love to eat it here. – Then we’ll eat that too now. I’ll buy you an egg bar. – Thank you. 2,70. – Exactly. You still have change. – Yes. – Unbelievable. How do you pay? – V.a. contactless. We have here in the meantime also the “pin machines”,

What we call them, the cash machines. So, that’s typically German? – That is typically German. There is no change? No, but there are change machine. Did I say that right, geen wisselgeld? Geen wisselgeld. Exactly, from the throat. Like when eggs are still hanging in the back.

Yes, then I am curious. – Enjoy your meal. Enjoy your meal. It’s really fresh, it’s still warm. It’s coming out right now. Let me put it this way… It must taste good, it’s so greasy. That is when you after the disco, you know, when in the evening you come home late,

…you’re gonna get an egg bar… The nightlife street is around the corner, like this. At night at 3, 4 to 7 it’s crowded here. On the way home you pick up something from the vending machine. It’s quick with the card. No trouble, can be done in any state.

It can still be done. – Exactly. Around once a year, the Musicians and fans in Groningen to the Eurosonic Noorderslag Festival. For many probably the hottest and most important transhipment centre for contemporary European music. * Music * During the Festival in January Groningen transforms to the music mecca with around 40,000 visitors.

* Music * Incidentally, the WDR is regularly with the programme “Rockpalast”. * Music * Contrast programme. The Sint Anthony Gasthuis was built in 1517. for the care of the poor and the sick. Also as a plague station the building complex used to be. In the 18th century, a part of the

Mentally ill people housed here. The “lunatics of Groningen”, that’s what they called them back then, brought the institution a lot of money. On Sundays, everyone came to see her to stare at, they tell each other. * Music * Unbelievable how many bikes. For me that is already a sight to behold.

I’ve already got used to it. It is clear, that people are always surprised, when they see how many bikes we have. How many are there here? We have seats for several thousand bicycles. Exactly. Now you can lift the bike up there. Then we make short the helmet away from here.

But you have to step on the gas a bit. Come early so you can gets a lower place. – Exactly. Push up well. Go on. Yes. And now you can push it back up. Push. Exactly. And in again. – Yes. Exactly. – Early morning sport. We now have made a mistake.

Do you have any ideas? – Wait, I’ll check the others. We have our bikes not completed. That’s what you have to do, before turning it up again. You’re right about that. Okay. But… Do we need a ticket or buy something? Nah, it’s free. That is all secured by the municipality.

Otherwise we would do not do either. * Music * I have no idea yet, what it is. This is the living room of the city, we say. It is actually a place, that is meant to invite everyone, to come here and have a good time. There are many students, which are here.

You can file your tax return here with help, a place for all. * Music * If you look down here, that’s pretty gross. It had relatively quickly already 1 million visitors after a few months. That is very good arrived in the city. Also for tourists the spectacular building is popular.

There is a lot to look at, e.g. in Storyworld on the 6th floor. A museum that is all about games, Animation, for comics and about their heroes. * Music * And all of this is free of charge. Also the view from the roof. That is, of course…

That’s really cool, it has to be said. And you can go from here even look over to the German border. Where is it exactly? See the wind turbines there in the distance? – Yes. This is the Eemshaven. – Ah yes. From there you go to Borkum. – That’s where I’m from.

What do I have now photographed at all? Is this your church? – This is our pride of the city. We call him the Olle Grieze, the old grey, because this is an old church tower, and it is grey. This is our Martini Tower, named after St. Martin, our patron saint of the city.

That is why we have on the top not a rooster, but a horse. Even though during the Second World War much was destroyed, Groningen has many beautiful historic buildings. But also striking interesting new. Groningen is also a city modern architecture. * Music * Probably the most striking modern buildings here

Is the Groningen Museum, which the Italian architect Alessandro Mendini built in the middle of the city centre. * Music * The basic idea was, the boundaries between architecture and exhibited art to blur. * Music * Who do we have here now? He has the biggest picture here, right?

Yes, but that is not our biggest friend in Groningen. This is the bishop Bernhard von Galen. The city has 10 weeks long besieged. – Does he come from NRW? From Münster. This is the painter. Oh, okay. – The bishop comes from Münster. He already had parts of the Province and Northern Germany

Besieged and wanted Groningen also have to do so. Christoph Bernhard von Galen. The people of Groningen call him the “Bommen Berend”, the “cannon Bernhard”, because he is incredibly many cannonballs fired at the city. Here is a replica of the battlefield in 1672. Yes, the bishop waged war, because he was a clergyman,

But also sovereign and fought over lands. In the name of the Church, of course. And how did it turn out? Although the situation the Groninger was desperate, they withstood the attack. After 10 weeks it is then deducted. And since then we celebrate on 28.08. “Gronings Ontzet”, a kind of liberation day.

* Music * Who visits Groningen, should the city also take a look from the water, Sarah recommends. During a ride through the many Drachten suddenly everything seems much calmer. Total deceleration. * Music * When in winter the canals are frozen over, it’s really busy here again. Unfortunately, this happens less and less often.

Climate change. * Music * Thanks je wel. – Alstublieft. Wheat. – Thanks je wel. It’s really German, isn’t it? – Yes, it’s really German again. Very well. – Very well. Here you can also feel quite at home. Do you have a really difficult or funny word,

Where you once stumbled upon in your time, what you can give us? That’s a good question. There is a sound that is very difficult to pronounce, which can be German almost never pronounce, no matter how long they live here. And that is “ui”. – “Ui?” Yes, exactly, that’s pretty good.

Yes? – Yes, exactly. “Oooh.” – From “huis”, house, e.g. “Huis”. – “Huis”. “Huis”. – Yes, exactly. That is actually the most difficult sound to make. Otherwise we talk a lot with “zzz” or “ch”. Earlier, in the Second World War, the Dutch have German identified, by using the specific words have been pronounced.

E.g. Scheveningen. – Yes. Scheveningen. – Yes, exactly. You would be exposed, unfortunately. Yeah, right? My goal or idea is also, I’m going to finish this, then that also works even better with the “ui”. Exactly, good plan. I have now proved three times, that I am the German here.

Once with the small change, then with the helmet and with the beer. What’s it like for you? Probably beat 2 hearts in you. – That’s right. I am bilingual and grew up bi-nationally. My father, the real Dutch from Amsterdam, my mother the hamburger. I feel more at home after all in the Netherlands.

Why is that? For my feeling it is here a little easier, the togetherness. You are quickly in contact with other people. When I walk into a shop, I have a feeling, that I am welcomed. People say, how can we help you? For my feeling this is not always so in Germany.

One can often to football. For whom does your heart beat, When Germany plays against the Netherlands? – Germany. Yeah, I don’t do that. popular with my friends. In Groningen, canal cruises are around the city centre on large and small boats offered. And there are party boats on which grilled and drunk.

Early morning we cycle along a piece the Staande Mastroute. These are channels, through the sailboats can drive with a standing mast. That’s why Staande Mast. They go from the mouth of the Ems to the Ijsselmeer. Bridges are raised for this purpose or even driven to the side.

Is also with pleasure boat captains popular, and practical, if you do not wants to sail through the rough North Sea. * Music * Via Appingedam we now go along the Dollart, across the Ems to Emden and from there to Norddeich to see the sea lions. * Music *

Appingedam was in the Middle Ages a rich city, some buildings from this period have been preserved. The place became known but through its hanging kitchens. These are those white porches there. Originally loading hatches at these points, through which ships can be has loaded and unloaded. Later, the buildings were inhabited.

But because kitchens were missing from it, and there was no room inside, you have them simply hung on the outside. * Music * In the province of Groningen live for Dutch standards comparatively few people. Depending, where you travel by bike, one already encounters no one for a long time. * Music *

We are short before the German border, only a few hundred metres removed. Also only a few hundred metres removed, can be found in the reeds a fascinating bird life. This area lies on the edge of the Dollart. This is a huge bay in the mouth of the Ems.

Mal is more here, times less water. For many animals a unique living environment. * Music * Because of the risk of flooding the Kiekkaaste stands on stilts and offers an excellent view. * Music * The Rheiderland, that’s the name of the area here, Partly belongs to the Netherlands and partly to Germany.

1st place across the border is Ditzum. The small village lies in the Northwest corner of the German part of the Rheiderland and is therefore also known as Endje van de Welt. The area between Dollart and Ems used to be for the people difficult to achieve.

Today, numerous holidaymakers come through the Endje van de Welt. Because here the last still remaining Ems ferry in East Frisia. * Music * For over 400 years there is a ferry at this point. It is particularly popular with cycle tourists, because otherwise they would have to take a diversion of around 20 km,

To the other side of the Ems to come. Up to 3 cars can go along, But campers don’t. * Music * I am now have been on the road for some time. You know what I learned? Don’t wonder. My question: I would say you are German, She Dutch.

How do I determine that? – Of what? – On the helmet. In the Netherlands I rode with a helmet. That’s when they said, here comes the German. No, I’m from Wuppertal. The crossing takes 20 minutes. Our destination is Petkum, a district of Emden. Shortly behind Ditzum the Ems flows into the Dollart.

Through the huge bay the water flows into the several kilometres wide Ems estuary and then into the North Sea. From there you can also get to Borkum. The sea, that looks so peaceful here, was in the past centuries often not so calm.

The Dollart Bay and the mouth of the Ems, what it looks like today, are in the Middle Ages through terrible storm surges arose. Thousands of people have drowned in the process. Around the year 1300, the course of the The mouth of the Ems is still relatively narrow.

Then, during several storms large areas of land flooded. Since also in the following centuries the dikes were not high enough, this development continued. The sea ate into the land. Today, the Dollart covers 90 square kilometres. Here we are, in Petkum. 10 min from here inland lies the Ems barrage.

Small diversions, but we’ll make it quick. The Ems barrage dams up water, when it is closed, and can protect against a storm surge. But it is also needed, around the Meyer shipyard 40 km away. in Papenburg, their newly built cruise ships into the North Sea. Such giants need a great depth of water,

And that will be completed with the Ems barrage artificially created for the colossi. All quite controversial. Environmentalists complain, that nesting birds can be killed by the are threatened by damming. But functioning waterways are important for the area here. For the city of Emden, for example is the port a major economic factor.

Millions of cars of a major German car manufacturer are from here already been shipped overseas. Beautiful to look at in Emden is the old harbour. Earlier from here the herring fleets have left. Even today, Emdener Matjes is as a delicacy. Right next door lives the ottifant.

Dat Otto Huus honours Emdens probably the best-known citizen, the comedian Otto Waalkes. The Strange Species of the Ottifant has meanwhile even made it into the Duden. The dictionary is now twice as heavy, there’s the ottifant toddling around. Holladihiti! Your Otto. (barks) Are you quiet? * Music *

The animal made art The result should be of a failed self-portrait from their youth. Otto himself once claimed that, but he usually tells quite a lot of nonsense. Welcome to deepest East Frisia. Watch for the next attraction we don’t put in the dictionary, but into the Guinness Book of the records.

Because in Suurhusen there was until Recently, the most leaning tower on earth, more crooked even than the one in Pisa. In 2022, however, the title was awarded to a Tower awarded in Rhineland-Palatinate. And Suurhusen is now only 2nd place. Now we are picking up speed, the reason can be seen up ahead.

* Music * The seaside resort of Norddeich is especially popular with windsurfers and kitesurfers. And he has an interesting seal station. * Music * In the reception centre you can look at the animals, but it is not a zoo. All animals were rescued as babies and brought here.

In the great outdoors they would not have survived. Now the carers take over Mother function for the animals, make sure of that, for example, that they eat. Partly live here over 100 small seals. Then we make fish now for the seals. It already smells good here. – Delicious after fish. Hello all.

We have a few animals with us, the fish must be prepared. We get it frozen, thaw him out. We have to get him out, so we can feed him. These are yours, these are mine. Is it from the North Sea? – Yes, North Sea fish.

He is caught on the high seas, then shock-frozen. Best quality. If you like, you can have a bite. Could you? – Yes, it’s very good quality. Is also important, we work with the young animals. We try hard in care. That’s where good food is important, that’s why the fish is so fresh.

I wouldn’t say no to that, I’ll do the taster. Knock yourself out. All fish must go into the bucket. How many people are you here? Here’s some… Yes, many, many hard-working helpers. We have animal keepers on site. We have BFDler, our trainee is with us today, interns.

Many hard-working employees, who all have a lot of fun with it, to care for the seals. We wash one off. You’re really gonna bite that? Yes, please. What, just bite into it like that? – Yeah, I don’t know. You said, you want to try this one. Have you ever tried it?

No? (man) Don’t have to. I can’t with my head, can I? – The seal swallows it whole. I don’t know, if you can manage it. There’s no way I can do that. We stuff the seals also at the beginning. But we would spare you that.

Nope, but I would now take off the head. – Do that. Oh. There’s a lot in a fish like that. It’s not just fillet. – Nah. Sushi quality, you say? Best quality, I promise you that. Enjoy your meal. – Let me show you. Tastes good, doesn’t it? – Yeah, tastes really good.

You should do it sometime. Only the best for our animals. – Not bad, can be done. They are waiting for us. Actually, they are waiting for the fish. I’ve tried it all for you, that tastes good. Good quality. – Good quality. Throw fish in properly.

There are the seagulls partly faster than the seals. – Yes. Then we have here with us 2 native seal species. These are the seals, they are born in the summer. That is why we have just only seal pups with us. The 2nd native seal species is the grey seal,

She gets her kittens in winter. These animals are still shortly before release into the wild. They still have to train their muscles. They have to change their bacon coat eat themselves up properly. Then they may soon back into the North Sea. How long are the in general with you?

On average, we need 63, 64 days. It depends, how quickly a seal understands, alone his fish to feed in the water. We have some, it’s super fast. Others need a little longer. But even they have it sometime realized and are then allowed back again. My bucket is already empty. – Mine too.

This has already worked well with some here. They have already understood this well. – Very good. I’m staying here, right? – Yes. Hi. Well, are you hungry? To learn to eat, the smallest ones really stuffed at the beginning. So that they understand, how swallowing works. We never feed them quite full.

You still have a little hungry, because we want them to start, to eat themselves. When we feed them every make you full to bursting, then they would never start to eat, because they think to themselves, I get everything, what I need. Why are they been abandoned by their mothers?

Unfortunately, the culprits are often the People who have the babies on the beach can’t leave you alone when the mothers are out foraging. When the people would keep more distance, they would give the animals do a lot of good. No one does this out of malice, but the animals are so cute,

Everyone wants the best holiday picture shoot, everyone is impressed. But there to the mind appeal, the animals need a lot of rest, that’s their nursery. If you keep your distance, you do something good for the animals. Threatened in their species seals are not, by the way.

Nevertheless, the stocks still maintained in this way. The most beautiful moment for the carers is always the release. The animals are marked beforehand. One knows very well through this, most of them are doing well out there. * Music * From Norddeich Today we are going to Greetsiel and afterwards a little further south.

Why? Well, to do a bit of sport in East Frisian. * Music * From Greetsiel harbour 27 cutters go out to sea, to catch crabs. You can then find them here Buy fresh. Greetsiel is picturesque and pretty to look at. The list of monuments in the village is long.

A lot of houses from the 18th century. and 19th century have been preserved. Whoever is in the area drives so it’s better not to pass it by. * Music * Ah yes, the East Frisians. Now we approach the curled Otto Tower, because Otto Waalkes here once made a film.

And then there are the famous… On your marks, get set, Watt. …Watt World Championships. The terror of the lugworms. This discipline is called the Eel Race. Instead of a baton, you hold a piece of bicycle inner tube in hand. (man) …against ESV Münster 1. Take a look at this, the game is on.

Incredible space conditions prevail in these encounters. And what technical The impurities of the process and from the audience can be easily overlooked. The nice East Frisians. * Music * The supreme discipline of the Wadden Sea World Championships is the mud sled race. Anyone can join in.

But who is surprised, the world champions of recent years came of course regularly from East Frisia. The first step is always the worst, isn’t it? Nice and slippery cool. Great. Sledge race is the order of the day today. I don’t know what to expect. The place looks good already. We are setting down.

Christian Hinderks and his teammate Torsten Schink are multiple Silt Sled World Champion. Better trainers you probably can’t find. We are about to glide here across the water like this. Let’s see, whether we glide. Silt sledges exist for centuries. Not for fun sports, as you can imagine.

In the past, people drove with it into the mudflats and have fish traps for fishing set up. * Music * When after the flood the water receded again, they took the catch. The animals that had strayed into the fish trap. In the mud flats a practical Means of transport.

For speed but it didn’t work back then. Today already. Christian and Torsten clear the course. What’s wrong with the East Frisians? So, Thorsten shows us, how the whole thing works. The trick is to just do it. One leg on here. It’s nice to try somehow, to keep the balance. And then push off with one leg. Then you come so slowly into the slide. I can tell, one has a little a twist to one side. You have to balance that out. That depends on the wind and weather.

Should I just try it? – Yes. That’s right, that’s better. I realise I have yet to overcome the inhibition overcome getting dirty. Then I would say, behind the starting line. Are you ready? – Yes. On your marks, get set, Watt. * Music * Come on, get dressed here! Come on, you got it.

I don’t believe it. That is something different like riding a bike, eh? Yes, that looks very, very, very good. You can do it, go on. My God. – Yes. Clean. – That is incredibly exhausting. You did very well. This is a beautiful moment, was a breathtaking journey, as one hears.

Thank you very much for watching. And I know, why you are always faster. It’s the cap. We’ll do one last one. – Yes. Here we go. By the way, no one, who is on holiday on the Ems, is committed, Sledging in the mud. Have a good trip, see you next time at Wunderschön.

Copyright WDR 2023