Die Pyrenäen zwischen Frankreich und Spanien bieten nicht nur malerische Landschaften und interessante Bewohner, sondern auch eine atemberaubende Tierwelt. Die 2. Folge dieser Serie findet ihr in der ARD Mediathek:
https://1.ard.de/reisen-pyrenaeen?yt=d
Eine Landschaft voller Geheimnisse und faszinierender Tiere: von den Bergen der Hochpyrenäen im Süden Frankreichs bis nach Spanien.
00:00 Intro
00:45 Hochpyrenäen in Frankreich – Sternwarte auf dem Pic du Midi
07:53 Skifahren im Einklang mit der Natur – „Flocon Vert“ am Pic du Midi
14:30 Freerider und „Bio-Skieur“ William Cochet – Leben in Symbiose mit der Natur
16:36 Patou, der Pyrenäenberghund – Gefährte und mutiger Beschützer
25:48 Langue d’Oc – zwischen Andorra und Spanien
27:52 Auf den Spuren der Radprofis: Col du Tourmalet – Der „Mörderpass“ der Tour de France
35:49 Expedition ins Eis– der Gletscher des Monte Perdido in Spanien
Die Pyrenäen sind ein Gebirge und eine Landschaft voller Geheimnisse. Die Berge haben das Salz der Meere in sich und ein Geruch von Honig, Schnee und Lilien liegt in der Luft. In einer zum Teil noch unberührten Natur finden Menschen ihr persönliches Glück und Tiere einen der letzten intakten Lebensräume in Europa. Die Menschen hier erfinden sich gerade neu. Entschleunigung, Respekt vor der Natur und nachhaltiges Wirtschaften stehen ganz oben auf ihrer Agenda. Sie sind Wissenschaftler:innen, Hirt:innen, Winzer:innen und Bärenschützer:innen.
In den Hochpyrenäen im Süden Frankreichs erheben sich die Berge imposant und steil. Auf beinahe 3.000 Metern Höhe bietet der Pic du Midi einen einmaligen Blick auf die Sterne. Weiter unten wacht über die Schafherden der Patou, ein riesiger weißer Hund mit sanftem Blick, der es mit Wölfen und Bären aufnimmt. Auf dem Monte Perdidio in Spanien besucht der Geologe Nacho Lopez mit seiner Expedition einen der letzten Gletscher dieser Berge.
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#pyrenäen #spanien #frankreich #Traumziele #ARDReisen
“Die Pyrenäen – Unter Sternen und Schafen” ist ein Film von Roland May
Dieser Film wurde 2023 im Auftrag des SWR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.
A mountain range rises majestically from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. A world of its own to discover. Beyond national borders. People find their personal happiness in nature that is still partly untouched . And animals one of the last intact habitats in Europe. Nicolas Bourgeois is a geologist. He fell in love with a mountain in the French Pyrenees. In the Pic du Midi de Bigorre. Here he has found his very personal universe. On the summit of the Midi there is an observatory that is important for France. Nicolas is the deputy director of the facility. His big dream is to have the ensemble recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To do this, he has to delve deep into the history of the observatory. (French:) He stands there in the middle of this landscape with his own character, a primal figure. Unlike in Spain, the Pyrenees on the French side rise imposingly and steeply. Here the snow line is within reach. Coming from the north, you can see this huge wall rising to a height of over 3,000 meters. And in the High Pyrenees something stands out more than anything else.
This is the Pic du Midi. At 2,877 meters above sea level, the observatory spreads out like a fortress on the summit. A cable car from the valley brings Nicolas Bourgeois to his workplace. I always felt that the place where I would feel comfortable, where I would feel alive, was in the mountains. And the Pyrenees are something special. A mountain range that is accessible. It’s not huge. You can easily reach the mountains and get closer to them.
And then there is the observatory on the Pic du Midi. A place where stars, science, adventure and the mountains come together. The Pic du Midi lies northwest of the main Pyrenees ridge. The observatory complex has become a popular tourist attraction. Not least because of the gigantic view. There is something very important about a place like this. You can see a very beautiful landscape, a beautiful building, nature and so on. But above all else, it is the people who, like the crew on a boat, ensure that everything on this summit is kept in balance. Which isn’t always easy.
You feel a bit like a conductor or a ship captain. Nicola’s duties are extensive. But his passion is astronomy. When the sky is clear and the solar telescope is set up, it is still an exciting moment for him. I fell in love with astronomy. (French:) That will definitely be 150,000 to 200,000 kilometers. Let’s check. – That’s crazy. 250,000 kilometers. Actually, 250,000 kilometers. 250,000. That’s 50,000 kilometers per minute. In less than ten minutes it covered almost 200,000 kilometers. There it is. This is like a gift. – Really a gift. Yes. No matter where we look, all the clouds are below us. This means that all the pollution in the atmosphere, the dust, the aerosols and so on, are blocked below the observatory. This means that we have a sky above us that is of very, very high quality. You don’t have to be an astronomer or a science expert to observe the stars. You can also be a poet or a passionate nature lover. And through this simple observation we recognize ourselves as humans on our small planet, observing what goes far beyond us. Watching the stars from the Pic du Midi is like falling, but upwards. Like lying on your back and being swallowed up by the sky. This is my universe, in the sense that it also attracts me. We often tend to imagine big stories, big dreams, science fiction, completely crazy dreams. We believe it only appeals to the imagination. And that’s what I love so much about astronomy or stargazing. It is something very excessive and extraordinary.
All you have to do is look up and you’ll see things that our minds have a hard time comprehending. They are so gigantic and extraordinary. The Pyrenees attract tourists all year round. People are fascinated by natural beauty. But the winter sports enthusiasts are leaving their mark. William Cochet is a pro on skis. But perfectly and quickly driven races on the latest high-tech boards are not his specialty. His mission is to reinvent skiing in an environmentally friendly way. William fights for sustainable tourism in the mountain regions and has committed himself to the requirements of the Flocon Vert. Places and ski stations should be supported in their change. I didn’t want to put any further strain on the planet , so I decided to go skiing to become aware of all the points that make a skier a polluter today. And as a professional skier, I had the opportunity to become an ambassador for my beliefs.
I find that the Pic du Midi region and the Adour Valley are a relatively untouched area. It is truly a cultural region that is essential in the Southwest. We are actually fortunate in that most of the Pyrenees valleys have been able to maintain their natural state
And that we have a mountain range that is still very, very wild. The ski resorts in France should voluntarily commit to nature conservation and receive a rating for it. The Flocon Vert, the green snowflake. The project has been met with enthusiasm at the La Pierre Saint-Martin ski station, about 120 kilometers west of the Pic du Midi . Martine Boyé was deputy mayor for six years
And won the award in 2017. (French:) When I was elected, I actually already had the idea in the back of my mind to put the environment at the center of my work. The station, the valley, the mountains, we are just guests in this nature.
And I wanted to do everything to ensure that the town hall’s actions were guided by environmental considerations. What could we do to avoid having too great an impact on the area surrounding the ski area? That wasn’t necessarily easy, because a ski resort always has a big impact on the environment. In addition to roads and mass parking lots, slopes and ski lifts in particular are a serious encroachment on nature. (French:) If you go ski hiking here, you climb 1,500 meters uphill on foot. And then you have steep slopes for much of the descent. Here you can push your physical limits 100 percent
And still protect nature. And that’s really something you don’t find in many places in the world. William’s love of skiing brings him into a conflict between the consequential damage of skiing and his desire to anchor a change in thinking in winter sports. Unusual. William is an extraordinary young man.
And it’s true that we really liked his approach as an organic skier, which is still quite rare . And we worked very well with him. I think he has found the right environment here. And we met someone who has made organic skiing the heart of everything he does.
Maybe you could say it that way. That’s likeable. He is a fine person. As in all ski areas, the lifts, offices and accommodation in La Pierre Saint-Martin consume a lot of energy. Tourists usually travel individually by car. And the ski slopes are exposed to erosion. Martine Boyé had a long list to complete.
The “Le Flocon Vert” label aims to help people find a ski resort where the natural environment is respected. The demands regarding the environment are very high. It was a long process until we received the seal of approval. A difficult process. But the analysis they do helped us take action.
We went through all the points and checked what had already been done and what had not yet been done. But of course we are not perfect. By far not. But we still try to meet all requirements. Although many still turn a blind eye to it, we know that by 2050 most Pyrenees resorts will be closed because they are no longer profitable. So people in La Pierre Saint-Martin asked themselves: Okay, what do we do now? Will we try to do our homework? And what if it’s all over tomorrow?
Without skiing and tourism, there would no longer be a soul in all the mountain valleys. They would be completely deserted. Farming is very complicated and life is harder than anywhere else. This applies to all these valleys. There was no one here in the 60s and 70s.
In addition to his career as a model skier, William also has a second passion. His farm. Here he can live in seclusion in harmony with his ideals. My life became what it is today with the farm. I have been thinking about environmental issues for 15 years now. And there is real progress in terms of what can be done to limit climate change as much as possible. Why should we completely change our lifestyle in this consumer society ? Sure, our grandparents complained and were happy to go to the city and discover a much easier life there. But today we are able to live the same life as they did back then. Because everything is easier.
William consistently lives by his rules. The food for yourself and your guests comes from the garden or the region. Coffee from overseas, for example, is taboo. This is an experience that you may not be able to understand unless you have experienced it yourself. It’s like with children. Until you don’t have one, you don’t know what it’s like. Being connected to nature every day is priceless for me. And I don’t think I’m very different from others. I am a being like any other. A companion plays an important role on both the Spanish and French sides. With livestock breeding in the Pyrenees came the need to protect herds from predators. One breed of dog seems particularly suitable. The Pyrenean Mountain Dog, or for short, the Patou. Benoit Cockenpot breeds this dog with dedication. Well, then come here. Is it good? Yes? Hello Hello. (He claps.) Then come, come here. Not with your teeth, not with your teeth. I first met him when I moved here to the Haute-Pyrenees. He really is the dog of the region. When I got to know him and saw his character and behavior, I was really thrilled. It’s his character, affectionate and loving. He is affectionate and independent at the same time. In order to preserve the breed and its characteristics, Benoit Cockenpot tries to breed his dogs strictly according to specifications. As breeders, we carry out a selection so that the dog meets the breed standard. Every detail of the dog is precisely defined. For example, the head plays a crucial role.
We look primarily at the thickness of the snout, the relationship of the skull to the bridge of the nose, the placement of the eyes, the shape of the eyes and their color. And here is the line where the ears are placed. All these details contribute to an overall picture called a Pyrenean expression. Out on the high meadows of the Pyrenees, in the middle of the flocks of sheep, is the actual habitat of the Patou. He can always be found where the sheep are. In order for the dog to bond with the sheep, the breeder must ensure early imprinting. You have to prepare the dog to defend the herd. But you also have to prepare the herd to live in symbiosis with the dog. This is, above all, a bonding ability. The dog must have the desire to defend his herd, and the herd must
See him as a part of the herd, that is, as a family. And there is a specific method for this. Once weaned, the puppy is placed with a group of sheep to whom it becomes emotionally attached. The puppies are only six to twelve weeks old when they go to their new family. After spending months together, they learn to see the sheep and lambs as their own pack. Patience and good training are key to ensuring that the imprinting will be successful and that the young Patou will eventually
Fulfill his role as protector of the herd. With the re-emergence of predators in the Pyrenees, shepherds are relying on the Patou again. He is the ideal protector of the herds. What I expect from Patou is to protect the sheep, not me. If I pet my dog every day, he will be a companion dog, attached to me,
Following me, and willingly obeying me. So he comes to the sheepfold. Little by little he will build a bond with the sheep. We create a bond that causes the dog to later perceive anyone it doesn’t know as an intruder. A person approaching, a fox, another dog, anything new to him.
Then he will show a series of escalating reactions to warn the intruder and make it clear to him that he is coming into his area, into the Patou’s territory. The Patou is given an enormous responsibility, the safety of his entire herd. He is on guard day and night, even without a shepherd. The Patou is there to scare. A predator, a wolf, running around in the mountains has a choice. He can go out and hunt a deer, he can get it, the deer down there, the wild boar, the hare or the sheep. He will always attack the sheep because it is the easiest prey.
If I now put a dog between the sheep and the wolf, it will be much more difficult for the wolf. The Patou is not required to have a territorial bond. The sheep move constantly in the mountains, within a day, in the rhythm of the seasons. The Patou has to follow this movement and will stake out its territory around it. Life and work with the Pyrenean Mountain Dog has always worked according to the same principle for centuries. In larger herds there are several dogs who share the work and responsibility. The shepherds can rely on them when a predator approaches. But times are getting more complicated for Yann Brianty and his colleagues.
The Pyrenees are increasingly becoming a tourist magnet. For them, the Patou and its invisible circle around the sheep are unknown territory. Yann has been inviting interested parties to his farm for years to tell them something about his animals. But the authorities only see the conflict of interest.
There are increasing inquiries from the regional administration as to whether the sheep could be protected in another way. Since last week, the mountain range here has been classified as wolf territory. But before that we were already in bear territory. So I had Patous. I know the patous scare all the people who walk here. Nowadays the mountains are being used more and more. People have always gone hiking,
Looking for mushrooms or going hunting. But recently there are people jogging there. From week to week the fear of the Patous increases because there is more and more going on. As a breeder, I am like a traveling shepherd between two worlds. On one side is a representative of the local authority who says to me, “No, no, the mountain is not just for livestock, everyone must have access to the Pyrenees.” “And the Patous, they’re a problem.” And on the other hand, people,
Nature and society, they say: “The Pyrenees, they are great for us because they are so wild, because there are bears, because there are wolves.” “We want the wolf, we want to protect the bear.” And I am a meat producer from animals that are the easiest to kill. A conflict.
For the Patou there is no on the one hand, on the other hand. He is part of his flock and will protect them from any intruders. Songs sung here by the locals in the mountains are cultural testimonies of Occitania. The region between Andorra and the Basque Country was already the land of the Occitanians in the Middle Ages. With your own language, langue d’oc. History and tradition have been passed down orally from generation to generation . Their polyphonic songs are an important part of their cultural identity. Pass roads are usually necessary evils to get from one valley to another. Not so for cycling. Pass roads are a welcome challenge here. And their fame grows the more the athletes struggle on the climb. The first major mountain stage in the history of the Tour de France
Took place in the Pyrenees, between Luchon and Bayonne. The most difficult pass is of course the Col du Tourmalet. Octave Lapize, the first Tour de France rider to cross the pass, called the organizers “assassins.” He called the effort “terrible,” “inhumane.” That’s why he called them “murderers.”
But Octave won the stage and also the Tour de France. The Col du Tourmalet is a big star of the Tour de France. It is the pass that has been crossed most often, more than 80 times. This is an absolute record. This is a pass outside of any category. A pass that made history and fed mythology. The legendary route attracts many enthusiasts
Who want to try out what it feels like to tackle the Col du Tourmalet. Pauline and Clément also want to know and have come especially from the east of France. (French:) I am proud when I arrive at a pass and have a few meters of altitude in my legs. And you?
The mountains allow you to grow beyond yourself. More than when you are traveling on the plain. We’re pretty proud that we made this pass. And it’s always great to take a photo at the top with the name of the pass in the background. “Here we are!” Marque Brüning is responsible for sporting events in the district. He ensures that the pass remains attractive. Col has the seal and is one of the first with this label. When Tony Estanguet created this “Terre des Jeux” brand, he wanted all communities, from the smallest village to the largest region,
To be able to share in this dynamic of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games . Some have already left. There remain fans of the Tourmalet, our beloved Tourmalet. Two kilometers for them and a small quarantine for those who leave Banniers from here. Christophe, Yannick, we’ll take it easy. Thank you, thank you. Great. Thanks. So stick together. As is well known, the most complicated thing is operating the pedals. The body adapts to the effort. I know where the limit is, how far I can go without my body suffering too much. You can feel it. Some people have heart rate monitors and
Devices to measure their pulse. I really do it based on how I feel. I listen to my body and know exactly how far I can push myself to still enjoy the climb without feeling pain or getting myself into trouble. Even if it seems like the event is not a competition,
Everyone is racing against themselves on this day. For many, it’s just about getting there. But everyone compares their personal best with the top times in the Tour de France and takes their hats off to the professionals and their achievements. We can always say to each other that we conquered the legendary pass of the Pyrenees together. A personal success. The Tourmalet will be something special for us. I think for me this is THE legendary pass of the Pyrenees. And I’m happy because I’ve never driven it before. Anyone who initially thought that the route to the pass would be a walk will notice halfway through at the latest why the Col du Tourmalet has become a legend.
The gradient of the road increases with every kilometer. The last few kilometers are the worst. Anyone who no longer has any reserves here has to give up. You see a lot of people going up the Tourmalet who are physically not in shape to do it. But with incredible willpower and effort, they reach the summit. There they are overwhelmed by their feelings. They fall off their bike because they can no longer pedal. In the last few meters they fall off the bike. And then they kiss and cry. These are emotional moments that you can hardly imagine. It’s a sensational victory that has to be experienced,
That has to be seen to be believed. These people have truly reached the end of their physical capabilities, the end of their dreams. With so much adrenaline in their blood, very few people feel tired at the finish line. Some seek the challenge of the double Tourmalet, climbing the Tourmalet from both sides in one day, which is a different challenge. And many try to do the Tourmalet from both sides in one day without stopping. For Clément and Pauline, one climb is enough. The view down to the other side is enough for them today. One point goes to the Pyrenees, the landscapes are great, we enjoyed them. The two completed the pass in one hour and 32 minutes. Not record-breaking, but worth a selfie. For Nacho López, the wait is over. The weather seems to be fine. The geologist put together an expedition to study the Monte Perdido glacier. (Spanish:) I never knew what I wanted to be, but I wanted to live in the mountains. I thought I could become a tour guide
Or work as a conservationist. And that led me to study geography for a while. I thought that was appropriate because my studies focused on the climate and hydrology of the mountains, which is closely related to the development of glacial snow and glaciers. So this seemed like the perfect way to advance in my work. And fortunately, we can do that here too. The scientists
Have to go up the mountain with their luggage and technical equipment. This can only be done with a helicopter. Then let those carrying the equipment come forward. Okay, we’re here then. OK. The landing site on Monte Perdido is at an altitude of almost 3,000 meters . The helicopter has to fly several trips to get the crew and all the equipment up. (Spanish:) We are at the foot of the Monte Perdido glacier. Every year we experience a little disappointment. We had very little precipitation in the form of snow, and it rained a lot of Saharan mud. In addition, the summer was a record summer in terms of temperatures . As a result,
Without having evaluated the data, we see that this will be the worst year in the history of our work. Ice core drilling is essential for detailed analyses. In addition to the age of the ice, the cores provide countless other information. Every year we use various techniques such as drones, laser techniques and terrestrial scanning to map the surface in very high resolution. And if we compare one year with the previous ones, we see how the volume of ice is decreasing. This allows us to accurately estimate how the glacier responds to annual climate fluctuations.
On the ice surface, Nacho’s people climb over the once gigantic glacier. They are used to it getting 80 centimeters thinner every year. In many places only traces of ice can be seen on the rocks. We’re going to take some water samples and analyze the isotonic composition of the water. And that gives us information about the rate of melting of the glacier. Even part of the laboratory is on the mountain. The water samples can be analyzed immediately. Okay, take your helmet. When you come down, you grab him with the harness and pull him up. They don’t come here from up there either. It’s not the most comfortable place. I don’t know when to leave people. Then I’ll take you straight down. Be careful here. Let’s see, this will blow your mind here. But it is the best descent. If you’re ready, that’s how it goes. OK. When you’re done, I’ll come down. The glacier offers no shelter at night. After the geologists’ work is finished, they face a strenuous descent. They have to descend to an altitude of 2,600 meters in order to set up camp for the night. The reward is a spectacular sunset. Technical equipment is fundamental. But comfortable clothing that doesn’t make you cold is also important. And the food. If you don’t eat, you can’t work. So yes, we try to take care of ourselves and have a pleasant time as a team. Of all the team moments, dinner is
The key moment of the expedition for me. In my opinion, there is no salvation for the Monte Perdido Glacier . It is doomed to disappear until another cold spell returns, which we do not know when it will come. There will be no more glaciers here in a few decades. An indicator that the climate in the mountains is changing.
So I think in a way it’s trying to tell us that we’re doing something wrong and that we need to correct it. SWR 2023
2 Comments
Was für eine abwechslungsreiche Reise über die Hochpyrenäen zwischen Spanien und Frankreich! Wäre so eine Bergtour auch etwas für euch? Schreibt es uns in die Kommentare!
Die 2. Folge dieser Serie findet ihr in der ARD Mediathek:: https://1.ard.de/reisen-pyrenaeen?yt=k
42:27 vor 6000 Jahren gab es überhaupt keine Gletscher. Aufwärmung wird nicht verursacht von Menschen , das ist eine glatte Lüge