I Wear an $800,000 Watch And Chat Live – Ask Me Anything!

Tim Mosso answers questions about Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and all your favorite luxury watch brands. This episode is live chat, question and answer, and totally unscripted. Watch collectors with questions about prices, value, new Rolex watches, used watches, preowned watches, and the best watches to buy get the mic tonight. This episode also features live footage of Tim’s favorite independent brand luxury watches.

Live chat is a cornerstone of “Watches Tonight,” but this episode takes it to new heights. Our live audience is encouraged to participate and question the host about any topic related to luxury watch brands, prices, and models. Tim offers his entire knowledge base and experience to assist our global audience of watch collectors, watch enthusiasts, and watch buyers.

Tonight’s show also includes a selection of haute horlogerie watches from the top brands in independent watchmaking. F.P. Journe, De Bethune, Roger Dubuis, Lang & Heyne, Urwerk, and H. Moser & Cie feature in this evening’s live stream. Tim provides live commentary and detailed video imagery to bring these exceptional watches to life – even from a distance.

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Hello and welcome to watchbox Studios at the 1916 company this is watches tonight and I’m your host Tim moso this evening you can ask me anything we are going heavy on the live chat I’ve long promised this show it is finally arrived and as we pass the time I’m going to

Show you some incredible watches from our collection today’s theme is independent Brands and I’ve got a little bit of everything all right Edward artto Charles S R onri casano welcome guys good to see you this is going to be a particularly indepth live chat we normally have a little bit of back and

Forth banter but today is solely focused on your questions we’re going to talk whatever you want Rolex pek prices hype watches Insight baseball favorites nerd watches movements how things fit my favorites and my least favorite all of that is on the table tonight Vince welcome Kevin welcome Michael Robert

O’Neal and Dave welcome to all of you guys here’s the thing this show ends but my Instagram is 24 hours a day so check it out it’s the official Afterparty of watches tonight and I’ve updated it three times today alone there’s almost always something new one minute videos

You can binge watch it cuz I think I’ve got over 2500 individual reviews at this point it is my other other platforms check out timore maso on Instagram all right mclud marel welcome Maro recently in our studio and now he’s in our chat box we’ve got dealer we’ve got Blake

We’ve got Joe from Apex North Carolina we’ve got finegan the ninja what do you think of VTO I love their in-house design and manufacturer uh definitely it’s an acquired taste but if you already love it do you really need to ask me what else is going on here we’ve

Got decb Watchman Joey B Stewart M Matthew Dale staying up in Kent England thoughts on Dunhill with Zenith movement I actually like it and I think with the Zenith movement I mean what is their default you’re essentially buying the watch on style and whether you like the history of the Dunhill brand because

There’s nothing to fault with the Zenith we’ve actually got the ultimate Zenith powered independent right here on the mat beside me more on that in a moment Marco John and Jim welcome guys okay viewer chots number one I asked you answer John V slays with his 1999 first generation Vashon constant overseas

Automatic with genuine trium fade dial and this was the only ever CC certified overseas generation in my opinion one to own for now and for tomorrow Ralph shares the lomatic Perpetual honey gold limited edition purchased from the 1916 company Ralph thank you for trusting our folks JCS hits the road with his jlc

Master Moon bought from Matt here here at 1916 and he rolls in his Mini Cooper S A watch Enthusiast and a driving Enthusiast a man after my own heart James C who’s a active member of the talking time with Tim moso Facebook group raises the jlc stakes here with

His master ultrain Perpetual blue enamel a Flink enamel on a guos base very very special with the IWC perpetual calendar system Joe D of Palm Spring Sports the Rolex Submariner gifted to him by his brother at his brother’s wedding where Joe was the best man Adam T of London

Central London impresses with an enamel dial blaat V I’ve often said these are along with bre a the Best Buys in fine dress watches guys send your shots to Monday mailbag at the watchbox outcom to see your watch on this box we may be the 1916 company but that catchphrase will

Live forever Ben yangang joining in from Portland mesan 1 we’ve got Rob filmer from Chicago Mark s from Brooklyn and Christopher H welcome Christopher welcome Joey B from htown and Watchman from St Louis Missouri we’ve got a worldwide audience okay ask me anything now this is going to be the meat of

Today’s episode but I want to start you off with something crazy while you stir the juices and think of questions for me starting with the most expensive watch on tonight’s show and one of the most expensive we have in inventory this was a 2019 launch from gral fory the

Handmade one they make two to three per year it’s 43.5 millimet in diameter in white gold and everything is handmade there is no CNC electrospark erosion there is no laser cutting there is no Dr or Liga as a result there are considerably more components to the torban carriage for example which can be

Done as a monol block using CNC but here has to be constructed from four individual ual large components each of them hand cut and then hand finished now 6,000 man hours goes into each one of these that is fabricated you can see this one from the model year 2022 I

Don’t know if we’re getting the light on there just enough uh not quite but you can see that there’s this wonderful rusticated finish on the reverse side we have individual bridges for the drivetrain we have actually two stacked barrels with a black polished ratchet wheel gives you 60 hours of power

Reserve every internal plate with a name or a number is made of white gold or rose gold and then on the dial we have a tribute to Oto loer allaha 19th century and 18th century there is no coat to genev here because historically in the time period to which this watch pays

Reference and deference there would have been no Geneva waves so here we have a frosted set of bridges and if you look carefully you can see that there’re sheer sides internally facing or mirror polished we have an enamel dial and an enamel sub dial for the seconds and and

It has a beautifully broad steel polished and open toron Carriage with a one minute tbon now when you look at the back you can see they did some interesting things here I guess they have some compunctions about using true leather cuz this is an animal-free strap maybe it was by special request I

Couldn’t tell you for sure all of the Engravings save for the hall marking on the reverse side are done by hand and that even includes the underside of the Buckle which notes handmade one everything about this watch exhaust superlatives everything the screws the wheels the bridges the plates the case

The Buckle made by hand the only non-hand fabricated pieces here are the ones made by the veroy process the pivot Jewels inside and The Sapphires front and back this watch is incredible it is 52.2 MM lug to Lug and 13.6 mm in thickness so it’s actually quite a bit

Thinner than you might expect this is one of the smaller gral forces and when I throw it on my wrist you can see the this watch which we actually have listed for 8800 Grand this this is something you could wear around and frankly a lot of folks would just ignore it they

Wouldn’t know what it is they wouldn’t know enough to ask you if it’s real or how you bought it or if you’re a millionaire so you can actually wear a substantial piece of real estate on your wrist and even then it’ll fit underneath a cuff and it’s probably not going to

Attract that much attention the guy who knows what this is was either hired specifically to steal it or is the ultimate watch nerd and someone you’re going to love to meet okay so that’s a lot of fun right there that’s a watch that frankly represents the best of

Everything all in one place let’s see what’s going on here we have quite a few of you Curtis aren’t from the West Coast our good friend he’s an interesting guy Curtis industrial designer formal Naval aviator with the Marine Corps restores guns drives and restores Austin Hees he’s a very cool

Guy you should definitely check out his collector conversation okay caliber yqg is in the Box along with 10 AK av8r I wonder if he is a Harrier pilot appreciate the craftsmanship on the gral not sure if it makes sense for many even those that can afford it and we’ve got

Thomas brunett dealer ignition saying incredible fory but I take the Lexus LFA for the same money we have Drome joining in from Toronto we have zet asking is this going to be the year of courtier any year could be the year of cortier it is brand that is always

Strong goes from strength to strength but notably doesn’t really play in the Oto loerie area anymore occasionally yes but since Carol for SDA left to run tag Hoyer uh we haven’t seen the same degree of ambition what they focus on now is very fine true to history evolutions of

Their core models like the Santos the tank modern Classics like the Balon blue and the santre I think we will see more evolutions of well-proven models but unless they launch something that is truly unprecedented the way the Balon blue was in the late 2000s or the

Roadster was in the early 2000s I don’t think it’s going to be the year of Cartier it’s a consistently successful brand that knows to stick to the basics which means it’s unusual for it to have an outlier year of unprecedented success or Misfortune okay Jim Millet will we

Ever see a watch with maso on the dial now you guys know I’ve designed some watches I designed this watch with Dan reuer and if you check out last week or you go on the talking time with Tim maso Facebook group or even Armand Beard’s own Instagram you can see the watch that

I designed with Armand now all of these designs 100% of the proceeds go to the Creator I’m not sjx I’m not forell watches I’m not monochrome I’m not co- branding these things and taking a cut I work with folks that I believe in and I bring them on board because I believe in

Their ability to realize my vision and then it’s sort of a patronage thing I want them to do well specifically and and you know that sort of divorces me from a conflict of interest so you know I can be honest about how I feel so if I

Ever make a watch it might have maso on the dial but I might put my grandpa’s name on it too cuz I don’t know something about putting my name on the dial not everyone’s into that not even people who make watches but I do think

At a bare minimum you have to make the watch to put your name on the dial okay what else is going on we have Jacob joining in from Austria we have Aaron w we have Patel Philipe saying Cartier was one of the highest selling brands last

Year from the latest reports true but as with Rolex it’s all about consistency from January to December and from modeline to modeline okay Marco joining in the Grossman trem blage rose gold with the blue strap I am a fan Andrew T Tim CTE Pasha seatime or Concord impressario is a clever watch Choice

Love both but can’t choose one well the posha SE timer is really cool but the Concord and I think we’re talking about the Elite powered Concord impressario at this one at this point there is a Concord impressario GMT that uses a Zenith Elite base it’s a very Compact

And elegant watch I’m very partial to that but if you can’t reconcile yourself to a sub35 MM case then I say go with the Pasha C timer because visually it reads a little bit larger will Charlesworth joining in from London and Jay parmesan saying what percent of net

Worth is an acceptable amount to put into watches example if have $100,000 saved is having 8K in a small watch collection a stupid idea no no you need to enjoy this life I’m going to turn 40 this year and even if I get a little bit lucky that’s getting darn close to

Halfway done I don’t love the idea but it does remind me that it’s important to enjoy it so I recently bought a new Full custom road bike and there may be a watch or a car to follow but I realized that putting a few thousand do into a

Bike when it is my absolute passion in life is a good investment in my physical health my mental health and my ability to enjoy some of the best years of my life so no if you’ve got 100 Grand putting 8% of that into a stable store of value that’s fine there’s nothing

Wrong with that at all now if it’s going to be something that’s highly speculative or it’s an nft watch or I don’t know it’s a ragar ro and you may not be able to get parts for the weird case reconsider but if it’s a Rolex Omega brightling don’t worry about it

And if it’s something like a soror beard or Dan reuter or a Garrick who knows down the line it might even be worth more as those Brands grow so no not a problem marus Tim tell us about your Holland exogrid okay I made this with Bill Holland and uh Cody Stevenson who’s

His fitter back in 2012 it’s his exogrid model so co- molded titanium and carbon fiber I went with the oversized chain stays for stiffness I went with the carbon fiber seat stays for a better ride it’s a Dura Ace 10speed first generation di2 we went with Ambrosio Nemesis tubular aluminum rims laced up

32 spokes those were made by Charles Wells and he actually tied and soldered them which is a glorious kind of like vintage look like Ambrosio box sections 32 spoke tied and soldered I’ve worn not I’ve basically worn that bike like a suit for the last 12 years and at this

Point I’m doing a bike with seven and a local fitter named Tim Gres who’s out in Westchester so that’s what’s going to come next I’ve estimated I have about 60,000 miles on that Holland exagrid it’s not retiring it’s just going to live at my parents house so I don’t have

To travel with a bike every time I visit them Ryan ranone Tim in your opinion which tutor model is the best one to own next I have the black Bay on Jubilee well I love the conac tutor Heritage advisor not only do I think it’s their most beautiful watch it is their most

Complicated watch ever made and I think the combo of Steel titanium water resistance and alarm with an onoff feature just a lot to love on that watch and my favorite complication a watch only made for a small period of time and in very small numbers I think any of the

Heritage advisers that have come out since 2011 are great watches but the conac is a really rare version of a rare watch that offers a lot of daily practicality I would wear that watch all the time what else going on loose tooth Tim when will Brian gothberg be sending

Archie luxury your autographed poster please and thank you I didn’t realize Brian was up to that but you know what hey I I’ll I’ll let Brian know heo Archie a poster the thing is we don’t have a poster of me so maybe he’ll get a one-off maybe we’ll make one we have a

Cool photo department here I’ll put them on it what else going on here Soros P soos joining from Greece very cool to see him in there and saak yanan Tim no joke you’re the most well-spoken person I’ve seen in my life love your content keep doing

You okay well I am not a trial lawyer or a first class political oror or a poet so if I’m if I’m the best spoken person you’ve encountered uh you need to get out more I I take that as is a great compliment thank you very much okay

Let’s jump and take a look at that watch that I referenced a moment ago in fact let’s bring up a few here so I talked about uh the Dunhill powered Zenith CU we had a quest or the Zenith powered dun Hills I should say well I said we had a

Watch here that is powered by a Zenith caliber and sort of like the ultimate example of that this is the UR 220 this came out in 2020 it is black DLC it is about uh 43.8 mm wide 53 .6 long this is a 25 piece

Edition and you can see not only does it have a satellite hour system but it also has a retrograde the satellite system is built by Felix balm Gartner the design is by Martin fry and the base is a manual wine Zenith now what it has it

Has sort of like an odometer it has a little uh service indicator and when that gets up to 39 months and I cannot overemphasize it starts at zero but when it gets up to 39 months then you send it in for service manual wind Zenith Elite caliber elaborately luminescent it

Actually has a split power reserve for the 48 Hour Power Reserve uh that’s very cool how that works and you know you’ve got the best of both worlds with a high horology module that is super Innovative and then a Zenith Elite base that is super tough and very accurate now you

Can see right here you’re looking at 7:45 exit stage left enter stage right we have the 8:00 indicator now it is 8:15 now it is 820 now it is 8:30 a really cool watch you can see the pivot centers are actually underslung beneath the lug so though it’s a big watch it

Wears small now two from Moser this one came out in 2022 let’s take a look here at the Pioneer cylindrical torban skeleton okay so steel 42.8 mm 120 M water resistant solid ceramic blocks of Loom on a cambered funky blue metallic scatter Sunburst dial then if you look

You could see that we have a cylindrical hairspring made by Moser subsidiary Precision Engineering that is a cylindrical chronometer style hairspring inside a flying torban that’s about 4 mm tall that is an enormous tbon Carriage now this HMC 811 movement is skeletonized automatic it has a pole-based winding system kind of like a

Magic lever and a 74h hour power Reserve you can see it’s a really good looking watch front and back being steel 120 M fully loomed it’s a really rare example of a tbon watch you can wear every day and a skeleton watch that’s easy to read

And won’t show a lot of wrist hair you can also see that that cylindrical hairspring is otherworldly you know you’ve got a flat hairspring Which is less good than a overcoil Which is less effective than a overcoil with cylindrical profile this is the best the best now Moser also released last year

This lovely 40mm collection where you’ve got the Pioneer now steel still 120 m still loomed still automatic still a 3-day power Reserve but now you’ve got this incredible Arctic blue dial and M are really flaunting their design distinctions as you know who made this they’re so confident that you will know

Who made this that they’ve actually used a clear ghosted lacquer to print their name on the dial blink and you’ll miss it now what’s interesting here is we don’t have the cylindrical hairspring we have two flat hairs Springs and you can see that they’re free sprung and pinned

180° out of phase so in any physical position gravity will cause one hairspring to run fast and the other by an equal and opposite margin to run slow so it instantaneously achieves the purpose of a pocket watch toron but it does it in a wristwatch format which

Means you get the best of Louis briay Abraham Louis brig’s invention but it works in a wristwatch format in fact the toron element is only there to make it cool it’s the twin hairsprings that are really responsible for the way this one keeps time note the double crusted coat

Deev on the bridge of this Moser that is a distinctive design trait I’ll try to get that in Focus you could see those double Stripes right there and then quadruple finishing on the rose gold rotor a lot to love here it’s on a perforated rubber strap this is a super

Low volume piece that takes a highle watch maker to assemble and regulate it Moser so a lot to love right there super cool stuff I’m going to stick with my Indies and uh show you uh two things first I want to show you grunfeld orange Army represent here we’ve got the

Prinkipia 1941 named after the prinkipia Mathematica which was the definitive publication by Isaac Newton in which he expounded an early version of calculus granular Orange dial you could see black polished and faceted hour indices fired blue Alpha hands uh this one is made in Olden zal in the Netherlands you can see

The case in steel 39.5 MIM in diameter with beautiful scalloping and fluted profiles then you flip it all over and I should mention that the movement is actually based on an Andrea strell construction but it is heavily modified by the gruna felds to become their own now you’re looking at Bridges and

Stainless steel why because finishing steel is hard uh we have a channeling around their edges beveling on their side we’re looking right here beveling on the side then media blast on the recesses 56-hour power Reserve six position adjustment you can see the pedigree of these guys coming from autm

RP r no Pape let me grab my polishing cloth to remove some of the scum from the case back but because they come from an aprp background their finishing is really above and beyond full balance bridge and also free sprung for outstanding time time keeping again 56-hour Reserve uh strer designed the

Basic architecture and train but the gruna felds fabricate the pieces and finish them distinctively uh you can see they do things distinctively they have this lovely cyan contrast on a great Buffalo leather strap again orange represent if you are a Netherlands fan you’ll understand if you’ve been to

Dutch Corner at the torto France on Alp Dez you’ll understand just a really cool watch that’s super wearable and prices on these very reasonable right now uh this is really what you want to be getting into instead of something like an fpj chronomat blue because frankly

There are fewer of these in the world and in steel it’s even a little bit more robust and in my opinion a better everyday watch than tantum which is relatively intolerant of marks okay and just because I want to show you my Dan reuter this is the watch I designed with

Dan we wanted to do a Ukraine tribute since his background is Ukrainian but instead of going straight up blue and yellow uh we thought why don’t we create a Tim masu Green from blue and yellow that’s what we did with a blue lacquered dial and going heavy on the yellow we

Created the Tim maso Green which is kind of a signature you’ve seen it on everything from my glasses to my watches to my phone case if you’ve met me at shows now flipping it over you could see that Dan got uh arur AMV out in LA to

Design rotor and then engrav both of our names on it I don’t know how well you can see the finishing but Dan beveled all the bridges he did the striping he actually media blasted beveled satinated and then reamed out internally beveled the screw slot on the cam he also black

Polished and set nated the hammer and the chronograph start stop lever so you get a hell of a lot for 6,500 bucks from Dan finishing on this level at a watch this price kind of an unheard of thing all right so moving on from that I want

To talk about uh two watches actually three that really are foundational pieces in independent horology starting with the original Roger de sympathy this is the bio retrograde perpetual calendar 28 pieces 37 mm rose gold a very similar to the watch that duwe wore at the time

Of his death and for the last few years of his life his was a silver dial but basically the same watch by retrograde perpetual calendar this is something he designed with Jean Mark VES dagor back in 1989 for the first Harry Winston High horology watch later du used the module

He designed on his own watch now this is a best ins son French certified Observatory chronometer it’s also Geneva Hallmark and it features the much sought sympathy one case design 28 pieces of these made as you see and on the reverse side you can see what started Life as a

Lene l990 also known as Brigade 8810 or 8815 Geneva Hallmark French binon Observatory chronometer status Exquisite hand finishing and this I believe was certified in 2000 Geneva seal and chronometer and then it was delivered in 2001 so this is what’s called New Vintage an early and influential independent and arguably the definitive

Watch from that early and influential independent super rare well preserved full box and papers even the Buckle in the clasp is a really cool Unique Piece now another one Daniel rot from 1988 to 1994 he made watches when he actually ran the Brand This is a construction of

His using a movement that he created for lman at the same time he was running bre under the CH brothers so this of course is the c187 reference you can see in white gold ellipso curvex case the dial is guos and as you can see a beautiful

Clue to per we have a dial side tbon with a beautiful polished and rounded bridge and then on the back this is really the kicker you’ve got a power Reserve indicator and a calendar with yet another engine turned dial more detail in clud per you can also see that

The lugs are welded style this is I believe the uh caliber I want to say 387 lman as designed by Daniel R and then adapted for his own watch the c187 and this is the basis for the new Dan World susp piece that just came out from the

Brand as a Revival but this is the real thing reach out to me by the way guys at Team also at thebox.com for purchase and pricing concerning any of these watches now this is super cool cuz it’s a brand you rarely see uh due to the fact that

Lud ludic bad I should say makes about 12 of these per year he also makes the halftime this is the Ludovic balir upside down now it’s 41 mm in Platinum this is a seven piece limited edition with an adventuring glass dial and the premise here is that well carp adum the

Only time that matters is the time at hand no time like the present no day like today so only the hour at the moment is right side up everything else is upside down now what I’ll do is I will advance and I will demonstrate how the system

Works and you could see that the system is based on a malti cross mechanism and on the reverse side you can actually see how this works and it jumps and there’s a jumper spring and there’s a spectacular rose gold gilding with a Sunburst finish across the bridges now at the center

It’s a peso 701 train but other than the train down to the escapement from the barrel uh this is all ludic Bard’s Construction a standard peso 701 is 18 jewles or 17 Jews I think this is 51 this is also 35 mm in diameter whereas

The standard peso is 23.3 so you can see he really made this his own now if you look on the case back you can see that all of the lettering all the characters it’s done by hand engraving when you’re only making about 12 of these a year and

24 watches total you can take the time to do things like this now this is again a 7piece limited edition in Platinum 41 mm you might wonder what does it look like on the wrist well it looks like this I can wear it you can wear it 47.5

Mm and what else should I say Ludovic Bard is the nicest man in the world the nicest man in the world he makes every part of this watch and he got started as a watch maker he was born in Britney France and he couldn’t find work locally

So he became a aircraft a power plant specialist and from there he decided to move to Geneva where he found work as as the after sales complication specialist for Frank muler from 1998 to 2001 at that point he joined fpj he stayed for seven years he was the guy who built the

Gr Soni and he was one of the highest ranking jeor watch makers under jeor he left in 2009 he launched this as his first watch he was also selected by Harry Winston to make the Opus 13 which he did so he is immensely distinguished I don’t know how you could see this guys

But he designed the case flank to be a concave mirror so when you look at yourself in it you are upside down and so I don’t know how well you could see this but the case flank is concave and mirrored and it’s designed to turn you

Upside down when you look at yourself in it so really exhaustively conceived to deeply please and impress all right let’s do some more your questions for me okay also let’s do some wrist chots wrist chots number two Ed K captured this stunning image in Maui with his

Grand Seiko spgm 241 togate GMT and a close friend at close range Matt s and his Grand Seiko sbga 413 cherry blossom combines pink and blue and defies the conventional wisdom about leather straps in water we have the English watch who has a Swiss speed master tridium and a

Porsche 718 to match I love it watches and wheels real tridium fade the shot from Richard B of Austin Texas Thrills us as he has a rare SEO discus bger CBS 019 limited edition The discus Burger rare and exotic Ryan M looks toward Buck Island from squa across his white Omega

Sea master and blue ocean expanses send your wrist chots to Monday mailbag at thewatchbox.com to see your pieces on my pixels okay 24 degrees greetings Tim from London currently on my break Jen 72 evening dark and dreary mid whales Mr Wong greetings Tim and talking time with

Tim moso gang one of our Facebook guys okay Mark ask Tim why did you go with seven you were indicating you were getting a new Holland for yours here’s why I went with seven because their fitter locally is a guy who is internationally famous multiply recommended and close enough that now

That I have many injuries including my knees and my hips I’m going to need to go back to him several times to get this sorted out and well I love Cody and Bill going once to the West Coast to get a fit pre- delivery and then nothing more

Is just not going to work for me I am probably going to need many subsequent fits to make what we designed actually work for me and as I get hundreds of miles over the summer I’m going to keep going back and back and back to Tim Gres

Out in West Chester Pennsylvania to make sure this thing actually works for me and I think the ability to do follow-ups is really what changed everything for me because like I said it’s not as simple as when I was you know in my 20 and I was getting that Holland exogrid and one

Fit was enough it’s going to be a learning process and again a lot of things are broken now what else is going on Davis hi Tim thoughts on henel of Hamburg a better alternative to jlc for movement finishing absolutely there is no question to my mind that henel is one

Of the absolute best small Independence I think at this point you’ve got uh about 30 years of practice out of Hamburg the watches are a little bit plain but there’s some room for customization which in my opinion means you’ve got a lot more flexibility to overcome some of the shortcomings if you

Love the finishing traditions of longa long unina gluta origanal but you want something that’s a little bit more personal then I highly recommend these watches again custom dial colors Engravings maybe a special case metal a movement finish that might be custom or bespoke definitely check that out I

Think at the end of the day uh they’ve got some really interesting pieces and the watches are simple stolid sober very tonic in character so if you want something other than that you’re going to have to poke them but I have absolute confidence in the quality of what’s

Being offered and also the finishing that’s rendered on it I think the H1 the 1877 they’re beautiful watches I’d be proud to own one and uh I also think the H2 Sports kind of neat if you want something that’s a little bit sporty with the engine turned bezel but all of

Them are very very classically simple so I think if you’re looking at that you also want to look at maybe some of the more Orthodox longa 1815 pieces and then maybe dor Blu as well all right jumping back to our regularly scheduled program let’s take a look now at uh some pieces

From fpjourne now the thing about journ is that there have been a million references a million additions micro editions Generations sometimes even of the same watch what I find fun is the stuff that’s relatively uncommon this is a model that was made in 2012 until 2014

When it was discontinued now this is the OCTA automatique line sport so you’re looking at the OCTA sport it’s 42 mm this is the one that’s full aluminum so it’s aluminum dial aluminum case aluminum bracelet and yes even aluminum movement I’ll open it up and try my best

To show you here but Jor wanted the watch to weigh basically 56 G which it does with all links in the bracelet and you can see that the movement Bridges and plates are made of aluminum now it’s 120 hour chronometric power Reserve 160 until it actually drops dead so almost 7

Days you could see that it has unique sort of media blasted finish here and one of the reasons that Jor just stopped making a full aluminum watch was because it was a pain in the ass it was a difficult thing to do the material does

Not like to be worked or I should say rought and ultimately volume one out and he decided in 2014 to just go with a titanium so if you see these things in dark gray you’re looking at titanium if you see them in silver you’re looking at aluminum now

There’s a nice media blasted finish and you can see unusual things like a sort of horizontal station on the bracelet and then you have the subsequently discontinued rubber bumpers which I find do a great job of preserving the bracelet in the case but I’ve been overruled people decided they didn’t

Want them so not only is the aluminum discontinued so too is the rubber looking at the dial the numerals are hard to see but they’re actually three-dimensional block of loom they’re not printed features they’re actually applique smoked Sapphire SPO seconds there’s little feature that I call the

Bean It’s actually an AM PM indicator you’ve got a double- digit date with flush discs and then that power Reserve really nice piece easy to wear I I will say If you think a luxury watch should be heavy this is not for you if you want something that will like go blow for

Blow with a rehard meal something like an rm9 or maybe even just a titanium rm5 or rm10 this thing is absolutely beastly you will shoot panicked glances at your wrist checking to see if it’s still there and again because it is still a handsomely proportion thing this could

Also be your dress watch if you wish it to be so a real collectible a sports watch a fun one and long discontinued now this is neat it was the first perpetual calendar made by joran uh from 2009 to 2010 Jordan made 99 of these grade five titanium and rose gold OCTA

Perpetuel models this was Jordan’s first perpetual calendar and you can see it’s based on the kandre the annual calendar that was discontinued in 2014 now the dial is white gold but ruthenium coated and the way he turned his annual into a Perpetual was he included a little

Window within a window on the month display so right here you’re looking at the Conan B6 teal which is the leaper b means B6 teal or leap on fron and so you could see if you look carefully it’s on a lower plane than the primary disc

There’s a little system on the flank a slider and then a trigger so that you can unlock and then quick set the month and the reason for that is that Jor determined correctly that people would lose a pusher tool if you gave them one and then attempt to set the watch using

A Tungsten Carbide ballpoint pen tip and they damage the watch so you could set this watch entirely through the crown and then let me just make sure we’re out of the danger zone here but you can yeah there we go see what I mean you can actually set this

Watch using a little adjustment mechanism that is on the flank and so Jor wanted you to be able to avoid accidentally changing it but also not have to use a tool to do so so it works just like that 99 pieces this was for the anniversary I believe the fifth

Anniversary of the Tokyo Boutique which was his first monor Brand store and the combination of grade five titanium and rose gold deeply pleasing with the ruthenium dial you can see we’re well into the rose gold movement era so the entire movement made of gold 18 karat Bridges and plates 22 karat rotor again

5day power Reserve chronometric but 160 hours absolute perpetual calendar and you note the dial side assembly screws here aren’t the usual polished steel they are richly appointed rose gold screws which really adds a pop totally unique aesthetic in a very special series uh it is a 40mm watch it is a

Bigger case you can see throwing it on my wrist it’s easy piece to wear it’s ducking under my cuff already so this is a dress watch par Excellence Al be a very sporty one given the scratch resistance of titanium and also the lightness that comes with it now because

It does have a white gold dial and a rose gold movement it’s not weirdly light but I’d say it feels like an average steel watch of that size okay questions and answers you got questions I’ve got answers okay and what else is going on Eric Neel and Tim we know the Revival

Stories of bla Moser and even chapek can you share who revived brega and when yeah back in the 70s uh Daniel Ral was recruited by the CH Brothers to move brega from Paris where it was basically on its last legs to the valley duu where they started with a room above the

Watchmaking school in lantier through the 70s and ‘ 80s there was another watch maker there whose Name Escapes me but I’ll I’ll mention that sometime when I talk about the Revival of brega but the sh Brothers provided the money and Daniel provided the design and watchmaking muscle and created some

Spectacular watches including the modern brega aesthetic so everything we consider modern brega today largely had its roots in the’ 70s and early to mid 80s before the CH brothers were convicted I think of t evasion and then sent to jail Daniel Ral he left at that point invest Corp bought Breg a they’d

Later sell it to Swatch Ro Ral went to create his own brand in 1988 he brought his first models to Market in 1989 and he kept doing that through ’94 when he sold it to hourglass and kind of divested there uh so it was Daniel R he still practiced today Jean Daniel

Nicolah the two-minute tbon check it out that’s the watch he makes today he makes maybe like 6 to 12 of them a year so the waiting list is long but the quality is worth worthwhile if you want a real Daniel Ral today you buy a Jean Daniel

Nicolah 2-minute tbon and that is the man still practicing today he was the savior of brega everything that the SWAT group would later run with in terms of style he started first Richard combes cheers late but made it glad to have you here Richard all right guys keep the

Questions coming this is Q&A in live chat Maurice Bob Tim what are your thoughts on the brand custos I’m really liking the look but scared they may be compared to reard meal well that’s basically the idea Varan sakas who was one of the original two Founders along

With Franc muler of Franc mulir his son was later given money to start his own brand and so it became sort of like a Fran molair Jr brand called custos that traded heavily on a sort of knockoff of I would say it was 5050 Franc molair

Itself and rishard M A lot of the watches are a little bit weird and like uliss Norden during the 2000s and you know pre 20104 uh we’re actually mostly targeted towards Russian buyers and buyers in Eastern Europe and the former Soviet Union so if the look is a little bit

Polarizing it was designed specifically to appeal to a very distinct taste as a result they are controversial watches but they can be a good value because well frankly they were huge and bombastic and that kind of watch typically has a small audience in the west which means values are available

Particularly where complications are offered but a lot of the watches are also really big so think Fran muler times like 150% and you get the general idea but they’re made by the watchland Empire which is the extended Fran molair company what else going on Eric neelen wow I’ve triggered Total Recall it seems

Tim manuso is in the box we have Seline driver who is a fan of Selen which I like and watches which I also like saying tell Bill Comfort Dane says hello and please find me a brightling navitimer PanAm bill and I will work on that Daye okay what else is going on Tim

Manuso Tim what should I buy next I would say the thing you should buy next would be a Daniel Ral c17 perpetual calendar it was a Daniel Ral era Daniel Ral which means he was actually making the watches and overseeing design and development back then but he collaborated with Philipe

Dufor they started with I believe a either a lman or an fpk base and they used Gerald Genta perpetual cend module that they modified because they were aiming for the world’s first instantaneous change wristwatch the earliest examples which took until 1995 to deliver did not have the instantaneous change the second

Generation which had dials rather than Windows for the system did have the instantaneous change so if you can think another watch made by Daniel Walt and Philipe dufor go for it but right now almost no one outside the hardcore watch fraternity knows about that watch so access is pretty good given the Rarity

And prices have not taken off that is the c117 perpetual calendar horio Tim a controversial question could fpj become the next franc mulir in terms of depreciation especially given its Founders character I think to paraphrase another controversial character fpj could probably walk out onto rudon in Geneva and shoot a man and collectors

Would still clap and love him which is to say I think as long as he’s genuinely overseeing development it will be like Ferrari during the life of the also polarizing Enzo Ferrari I think we will look at the jours made during his lifetime under his oversight and then

Things made after he either dies or basically divests of his immediate role as lead developer there could be a time and I think that time is coming when he will truly make good on his promise to add another floor to the building on rudes synagogue in Geneva a fourth floor

Where he can have a master class for people who are already advanced complication Specialists and then he will teach them by his own declaration everything he knows so he wants to end as a teacher and that will not be compatible with his role as a full-time

Creator which is why I think at some point you’re going to see either stakeholders or maybe Chanel take on a bigger stake and other people internally will take on development responsibility and externally it’ll be branded and build the same way but hardcore collectors like the folks watching the

Stream will know better and at that point there will be a for a before and after and the market will really discriminate between those pre and post Jour jours but I don’t think his admittedly polarizing and often questionable acts of judgment are going to damage the brand itself Pierre

G joining in from Montreal Pier thank you so much stay warm up there airdam 13 checking in from Manchester staying up late with us we got we got mirco L joining in from Belgrade also staying up late in Europe okay sulaman welcome good to see you and Chris L getting up early

In Sunny Manila okay guys Mark ask Tim where is Jack Forester was expecting to see more of him jack does what Jack wants and when Jack wants to be on camera we will give you more Jack he works on multiple projects uh he does a lot of freelance work still and he lives

In New York full-time so we only get him down here on a rare basis but when we can work with ja we will work with Jack and make the most of that relationship and I do have plans to do something with him called icons of time which will be a

Dual take sort of Series where we talk about popular topics in watch collecting and you get 50% Jack 50% Tim Seline driver a market question what do you think the market for un clo and a watches will strengthen or weaken in the coming year I think they will strengthen

Because the brand itself will strengthen first those watches done by Don CAD are beautiful and rare and exquisite especially with a chronometer certification I couldn’t care less that a lot of them are ETA calibers the movements are incidental the dials are works of art if you were to get that

From ptech Philipe first the quality would be no better second the price would be over $100,000 and it would be a piece that has to be approved for delivery before you can even buy it so I spoke to the general manager of uliss nardan he is now GM of

Un matu hland and I had an weree long sit down with him and I pulled no punches the damage to the brand divestment from caring what it means to start a brand essentially from scratch things that were done wrong overreliance on the Russian Market how it plans to

Redesign for Global tastes not just one overwhelming monolithic Eastern European client State I did not pull any punches I asked things that frankly he could have declined to answer he answered every question forthrightly and extensively you’re going to see that very soon the people running the brand

Know what they’re doing they are owner managers they bought back the company from caring so it’s now it was bought back by its management and all of those pieces are now in the hands of people who are tying their financial future to its success they’re going to stick to

Under 10,000 watches a year about 1,000 of those are going to be the three primary freak variants they’re going to lean heavily on Don kadra and its dials which I believe is now localized in the loo Factory and they’re going to make sure above all that the watches are

Appropriate to client tastes globally but also rare they will never sell on close out they are taking control of their pre-owned Market they’ve taken about half of the floating gray Market inventory off of Chrono 24 already which means in addition to buying back the company they’ve spent an enormous amount

Of time taking watches off the market and when necessary recycling those watches so they will never hit the market that’s necessary because otherwise it becomes known as a close out break brand a gray Market brand a discount brand these people know what they’re doing so this is not specific to

The cloa A Dials but they are absolutely going to see everything that they’ve made in the past become more desirable and the fact that they’re engaging directly with collectors and folks like me means they understand how you Market to that audience all right David saying Tim do you think the vintage car market

Will strengthen seems like there’s so little of some of these vintage models out there yes but keep in in mind that pre richmont Cartier watches are already monstrously as long as it’s not something like must dearer uh if it’s something that’s like pre-1973 monstrously collectible already auction catalog Covergirl type stuff but

I also think that what we’re going to see soon is the cpcp collection from 1998 to 2008 start to gain a lot of momentum I’m already seeing interest in getting questions about those so that’s a good leading indicator that that’s the next big thing Tim manuso if you’re

Still watching go out and get yourself the new generation tank aishe which is both exceptionally rare and exceptionally Exquisite that came out in 1998 a jump hour Cartier in Platinum Ruby kaboon a recreation very Faithfully of something that was made in 1928 that if you don’t buy the down your world

C117 should be your next watch all right we have Jen Bennett saying un Grand deck T beond part two please I seconded that I was at BOS world in 2016 when that came out literally the stuff of dreams we have quano joining in from Malaysia

Getting up early with us and Tim what do you think about the long run for the Rolex sead dweller 43 please well it’s a mass-produced watch it’s a big watch it’s not the core diver that’s always going to be the sub it’s not the ultimate diver that’s always going to be

The deep sea or the deep sea challenge so I think it’s a watch you buy because you’ll love the way it looks you want something bigger than a sub smaller than a deep sea you’ve got a little bit of a taste for history and you want all of

The cap ability that comes with a sea dweller remember with the seadweller you’re going to get some advantages in size and rist presence and diving depth the helium Escape valve and the clasp assembly so I like it it just don’t look at it as something that’s going to make

You money I don’t think it’s going to lose any value but I think that it’s probably like the somewhat underserved middle child of the Rolex dive watch catalog right now bicycle chess tour does quartz tag Hoyer have pre-owned value uh well first of all buy depreciated and it’s not going to get

Any worse you know if you buy something used someone else has already taken the hit I do think that the tag Hoyer golf uh being ultr light application specific and very cool in terms of how it’s designed with an almost P Upstream style clasp design uh that is a really neat

Watch and a limited edition I think it has a lot of potential I would also say that the caliber s has some potential for the future and uh I think the cuum with its unique uh shelf life stabilization system it’s almost like the fpj elegant that that’s

Pretty cool too uh but I I see that more being like a set of watch nerd Collectibles not something that’s going to make you money so speaking of value stable but not a money maker okay Vince lefo cpcp toru monoar is already hyped yes the cpcp watches are recognized but

They’re not anywhere near the peak of the market their upward curve is still very steep at the moment they’re nowhere near the plateau we’re nowhere near saying that we’ve reached Peak cpcp especially for the more desirable examples like the mono pusar and the gishe okay what else going

On Karate Chop petition to get Jack forer on a live show I don’t know that we can deal with like a three-hour live stream but yeah I’ll ask what else going on Vince lefo Tim do you give any value to two-tone case and bracelet over full

Steel yes the only buy left in 19 90s Zenith powered Rolex Daytona is the two-tone if you don’t like two-tone doesn’t matter buy it take the bracelet off put it in the Box preserve the bracelet put it on a custom black leather strap and now you’ve got the

Most graceful dress watch Rolex never made that’s the way to wear your two-tone Daytona take it off the bracelet put it on a strap get the Zenith model cuz someday that will accelerate that is the last example of the zeni Daytona that is all that is not

Already a crazy amount of money to buy so yes in a big way as for other brands I would say there’s probably some money if you want to get into something like a two-tone Zenith Duca and Cartier from that era it’s Hit or Miss depending on

What model but a cpcp has potential I would also say that realistically uh there is some potential in some two-tone PK phip from the era especially where a nautilus is involved if you can find some sort of two-tone 3700 that is a great watch to own the same is also true

For the two-tone Vashon 222 because they only made I think 120 of the 222 in steel gold making it a vintage option that is recognized but not at the peak of its value and very scarce very cool as well highly recommended Dr J 1337 Tim do you think IWC will ever adjust the

Price of the new onur unless they’re humbled by just a flop on the market and sales that don’t meet expectations I would say no right now at this moment they’re still going for retail or a bit above on krono 24 I don’t think they are going to adjust the price down ever but

I also don’t see them freezing the price until something goes wrong for now it looks like people are paying the ransom even though people who know the score like you and me are basically calling them out for gouging cuz remember last week we talked about being able to get

That same movement in a bom in merci that costs less than four grand the titanium on jur costs 14,600 all right we’re going to talk about a brand that is near and dear to my heart and I have three awesome examples but first let’s do a wrist shot

Okay jumping back in we got wrist shots from Neil s who along with Parker the poodle returned from Boa Raton with his tutor Marine National from 1916 our location in boa Ron thank you Neil for trusting our company Joseph P and his Omega ck2998 on a custom ostrich Aaron

Bespoke take a break at the national Polo Center check out Joseph’s new magazine Lux Wellington and read my article about watch collecting Abdul R of Germany and his bavia telier salmon dial greet us from the Black Forest in southern Germany J sharp and his IWC Pilots watch Mark 20 green well no

Actually that’s the black greet us from Chile Eden Utah after skiing and I imagine that a full bracelets a little bit tough in that weather but this man Braves it Norm and a Zell Spearfish capture a colorful view of Lake Chapala in Mexico Dave T of Canada prepares for

A hike of the Turner and parade glaciers with Rolex and Marathon gsar guys send your wrist shots to Monday mailbag at the watchbox ccom to see your my wrist well your wrist on my list kind of mangled that right there okay jph Tim thoughts on rgm I think that the

In-house calibers are the most interesting if you want an absolutely monstrous built like a tank diver try the latest Series 3 Model 3 00 that is one of I I think you can even get a chronometer certification if you ask on that but that is one of the best non-

Inhouse caliber rgms made they also made a jump hour or two during the 90s highly recommend the rgm jump hours from the 9s and then if you’ve got the money go with their 802 core of engineers or the 802 aircraft get the 802 caliber with every option hacking engraving uh Wolf’s tooth

Gear profile get everything get it full fat pay the full value it’s worth the money you spend and with the core of engineers you even get an americanmade enamel dial if you’ve got unlimited money go for the Pennsylvania toron I don’t know of any other toron watches

Right now that are being made in Pennsylvania or the United States for that matter so game on okay Seline driver saying Tim said Zeos that’s true I try to honor everyone’s tastes on this show and recognize everyone we have ellot joining in from Germany thank you for staying up late with us

And we have Von Cru saying poodles are great dogs quite smart this is true and Jim Millet saying Tim is on fire tonight well fortunately I’ve got water right here in case things get out of hand and Larry L getting up early from Japan Taylor Taylor hey Tim thoughts on toury

Lina beautiful watches I like the gg3 I love the gue I love the stylized gilded movements I love the highly stylized and customized dials I do think you have a lot of competition in that segment though you’ve got Pascal you’ve got Katon Myrick you’ve got Garrick and you’ve got Sor Bard you’ve

Got a lot of watches that are similar and sort of competing in that basic sort of Unitas drivetrain manual wind 40 to 42 mm watch the affordable independent category if you will okay what else is going on here we got ason o saying what do you think about the Pepsi meteorite

Dial and overall Ro with meteorite dials their Rarity and collectibility absolute the Apex Mike MOS who handles our Rolex CPO and Rolex sales he’s kind of our Rolex specialist here that’s what he wears he wears a Pepsi white gold meteorite and the man knows how to pick

Them so based on that I can highly recommend them you will pay more to buy them used but you’ll also avoid the wait list wait and you’ll get it at list and you will never lose a scent okay what else is going on here Jim Millet thoughts on the future of bremont I

Guess how much the investors want to put in I’ve always thought that bremont grows fast but also loses money so until they prove that they can grow and make money uh it’s going to be purely at the discretion of the investors how long will they put money into it when will

They say okay enough with the market share and the growth we want to sacrifice volume for margin I couldn’t tell you when that happens bill amman’s now a big investor he’s an activist investor I have a feeling he treats this more as a hobby than like a serious

Financial stake uh like I don’t think he viewed this as a or break for his portfolio but he’s also a watch collector and I think he’s probably taken a special interest in this so I don’t think he’s necessarily the one who would pull the trigger and say okay now

You guys have to make money but I would not be shocked if he starts to weigh in on the Styles and the model lines and the features I can see him having more of sort of a activist hand in the product itself rather than the business strategy although who knows there a guy

Who wants to win maybe he wants to go for profit maybe he wants to go for margin maybe he changes the Outlook but that’s the thing ever since it was founded braymont has always traded margin and profitability for growth maybe that’ll change fuzz WX thoughts on the Zenith

Chrona Master open uh one of the coolest series ever made by uh Zenith and I think that if you get one that’s like a 2003 chronomaster open that’s pretty awesome that’s pretty much like the height I think once we get to like the Open Seas and the dayi extremes things

Are out of control all right debaton you know I love them special favorite of mine I’ve been on board forever but since 2021 my company has been the majority shareholder let me show the scope of what they got this is a db25 midnight blue the center dial let me see

If I can show you this is black polished blued titanium grade 5 so you can see that Center is titanium the chapter ring is fired enamel 44 mm you can see it is rail thin automatic winding 6 days of power Reserve shock protection on both the rotor and one two three shock

Protection on the balance Bridge it has a balance that’s nonannular a Yol featuring uh the Yol of titanium and the masses of platinum absolutely off the hook and everything that’s blued back here is fired in matte finish titanium now here we have one of the earliest examples of the db25 moonphase Starry

Sky I don’t know how well you can see this but this one has a super pale blue dial characteristic of the earliest examples early on debaton was going with sort of a pale blue when they fired their titanium dials later on they went with a much darker like saturated sort

Of uh ultramarine blue this is lighter you can also see this was a custom piece for lauron picoto founder of Chrono passion and so it’s got a picture of him riding a rocket with his initials on the back you can see one of the things I love about debaton the entire movement

Steel capped and mirror finished that is black polish over the entire movement you can see you have the same technical capability of the other watch but this one’s a 6-day manual one the barrels are both solarized you can see that the balance here is a solid

Disc of silicon with a white gold mass and then there’s a power Reserve indicator on the bottom the case is in white gold 44 mm and you can see that the star scatter pattern was specific to a location and a time that was important to Lon now you can also see that the

Moon phase which is 1 half blued steel 1 half white Palladium it is spherical it requires only one update every 122 years and the star on the dial are actually little dowels of white gold okay we finish up with my favorite piece even though I can’t wear it uh in

The regular offerings of debaton this is not a limited edition it’s a 44mm titanium watch this is a db28 that includes scrolling minutes jumping hours and at Center you’ve got that spherical moon face case dial and movement made in hand here made in hand made in house by

Hand you could see here we have that really dark titanium I was telling you about the later fired debaton titanium and once again we have those little dowels inserted to create the stars and this is a more classical clud guos or grandor or barley corn so this is a

Solid dial db28 something we don’t see a lot db28 digital floating lugs variable geometry and on the back we have Kat debaton we have the triple parachute shock protection this time you can see that the balance Bridge has been fired blue and then polished and rounded all

The way across stripes bevels a mile wide on the edge of the double capped Barrel Bridge a really special watch and one that is near and dear to my heart all right guys let’s jump to our final rist shots Antoine M posts a his and hers from Dubai with Omega and Cartier

By night Tony G and Blacky the Yorkshire appreciate his 1950s rulex Date Rolex datejust I believe it is a datejust not a date Liam B celebrates color and value with his seo5 sport diver srpk 33 David J explores the Arctic Circle in Finland with snowmobile and Rolex Explorer 2

Tacw explores the deserts of Dubai with his BL p 50 Fathoms bath to scaff flyback chronograph and Kenneth M takes us home with his Gerald Genta retro classic purchased from our 1916 team thank you for trusting our company all right guys this was an absolute Blazer we have a question from

Panaceas asking Tim what is your favorite complication I think that the most practical complication is the alarm I would say that my favorite complication probably the minute repeater all right guys thank you so much be well have fun thanks to Garrett who’s on the switcher tonight I always

Appreciate that uh I will see you next Monday and if you are going to be in Newport Beach on the 21st 22nd and 23rd of March I’m coming to town in California details to follow time out Tim out