In September 2019, my wife and I booked a self-guided cycling trip through Puglia, Italy. After brief visits to Bari, Monopoli, Polignano a Mare, and Matera , we criss-crossed the heel of Italy on backroads and stayed in delightful small towns. Then, we flew to Malta to immerse ourselves for several days in the place where the ‘west’ defeated the Ottomans in 1565 and the Nazis in 1942.
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