The second edition of the NEOM Beach Games, set to take place in Saudi Arabia across five weeks – 21 October to 24 November – will feature Climbing competition in the Boulder and Speed disciplines, included in the programme of the multi-sport festival alongside beach soccer, mountain bike, triathlon, and 3X3 basketball.
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From France Manu coru 29 years of age from every great to have Matthew here with us this afternoon B and Jean Luca Porsche Austria 25 years of age young Luca here live us on the stage and for laia Edwards grtis now 19 years of age from Ria into
The final and one more finalist here for us tonight from France Magie schug 19 years of age from cury very good afternoon gentlemen good evening welcome to your final so those are our top six athletes and they’re about to turn Face the wall and of course course observe those
Boulders behind me and usefully I have a root Setter in the commentary box Roman lovely to see you again uh Roman first of all let’s talk through Boulder number one tell me a bit about that yeah it’s like a strange starting position because they must crossing the hands and they uh
Kind of flip flap on the first move and then a powerful moves to get to the Zone uh big shoulder powerful shoulder move to go to the blue one on the right and then like one harm jump top one arm jump to the top I mean I questioned you
On that cuz I was like is is there a foot placement but no it’s just a straight one arm yeah just straight arm wow so a powerful start to the men’s competition and the rules of this comp is completely different so if you’ve watched World Cups World Championships
Be prepared well for a new kind of competition and Roman these athletes have seen videos of these of course so tell me a bit about that cuz they’re still observing it so what kind of conversations are they going to be having it’s more just refining beater
Not covering it yeah I think yeah now they know the beta so I think the strategy for them is uh to yeah just to decide how many attempts they would they we put on 2 minutes and skin is a bit of an issue I talked to Manu who you can
See on the right of your screen earlier on he was saying he just doesn’t have the skin for this final yeah he told me a few minutes ago that he has no skin but he has the power so we will see he absolutely does made it into the final
As well and as the lights illuminate this stage well if you watch the semi-finals from earlier on you’ll understand the setting that we are in but if you didn’t we’re in the middle of a desert basically and our climbing wall is surrounded by Massive pillars of Red
Rock stretching out as far as the eye can see there are tents for the athletes this is a sustainable games and we are here at the neon Beach games no beach in sight just a desert and we can see Mei there on screen with his arms crossed
Yeah they know they know how to do it so it would be it would be a nice first move so first move arms crossed and then a big compression style slam out that’s it wow well that’s Boulder number one Boulder number two as the lights pick it
Out and we’re back to a slab is it as hard as the semi-final slab it’s completely different slab yeah it’s a kind of balance move in the first but it’s not a uh fit job it’s like a really Dynamic powerful strange move to to go
To the top uh yeah and for those of you who are new to climbing those pink lines with a start hold each line is going to a separate hold and each line indicates a separate limb in the middle of the wall there you can see a zone that is
The first scoring opportunity for the athletes after that just the top of Weights that’s maximum points and Roman a slab like this not necessarily all on the arms but it does look quite powerful this yeah it’s it’s the it’s balance on the first part and then uh to go to the
Zone is not that not that easy and then this is this quite a special move I don’t know how to call it but yeah you have to throw your feet in the same time time you jump and you go to this blue blue top hold and uh you have to control
The top hold uh yeah with the foot again so we will see what happens there is a lot going on in this Boulder and Roman tell me about how hard you guys are working because I don’t think people realize behind the scenes you are doing countless hours yeah this conf is uh yes
Not so easy because yeah in the morning we have the recreational and then the semi-final and then we have to a short time to reset and uh yeah it’s and the same same day tomorrow for for women so but it’s super exciting yeah and new job is is to
Create these Boulders I mean these aren’t predefined they’re not existing so you’ve come up with this completely and this is for people who don’t know the sport necessarily it’s not like a mountain bike track where it’s there already you guys have made this yeah yeah we we spend a lot of time in
Adjustments and details and uh try to find the the right level for for them well the time is almost up but for Boulder number two now then move on to Boulder number three and just to let you guys know I’m being joined by Petra Kingler in the commentary box who is
Behind me she’s sitting waiting and she will come on after the observation so we’ve got that to look forward to right raaman we see Boulder number three you describe this one as a a bit of a rock climb yeah it’s uh it’s a kind of if you
Compare to a semi-final program in the same profile uh it’s it’s a little bit the same thing uh every move is not super hard but it’s long Boulder you have to uh to do it really properly each movement of feet each movement of hands is important so you have to do every
Move properly to to go to the to the top part it’s certainly a long Boulder and it crosses the steepest part of this wall and what we’re talking about the wall this is the Olympic wall this is what we’re going to see in Paris yeah exactly the same wall wow well that is
Coming up for us if you’ve got your long-term calendar comp dates in but for now we do this and we can see that roof there look at me he’s disappearing yeah this one is a could be a super complex Boulder like a normal comp on site but
Now they have the beta they have they know how to do it so it would be a good advanture for them yeah knowing the beta that is all important and also another rule to get your head around and don’t worry I will introduce you slowly but
The athletes will get to see each other competing on the boulders during the semi-finals they gathered had a look at beter and it was interesting talking to them I I again I I was talking to Manu and I said did it make a difference was like no because all it made me realize
Is everyone does the boulders differently which is a good point yeah yeah yeah that’s true yeah so although you might see someone else do it they have have of course got a completely different style so it’s worth bearing that in mind as well a lot of slopers on this Boulder
And now the conditions are really good so I hope it yeah they are really good it’s not too cold it seems like the uh the rocks have soaked up the heat and then are letting it out slowly it’s actually quite nice yeah it’s super dry yeah very very dry and that’s a good
Point if you if you join Us in Jakarta for the ifsc Asian qualifier you would have heard me talking a lot about sweat we haven’t got that issue here Jakarta was completely different yeah from the jungles to the desert it feels a little bit like here
Now this is Boulder number three and for some of these athletes their competition will finish here only three will progress to the final Boulder so although they’ll all observe it only three of them will get to climb it and again Roman tell me about this one okay
This one is um the first move is a coordination like classic cation Mo they really know how to do it I mean the first move it’s not a big problem for them but the second part of the boulder is this compression of the big blue Skyball is really really powerful with
The hook on the on the zone and you have to move the your hands like maybe 10 times to go to the top of this blue volume and uh and prepare the jump on the left well that is what the athletes have to do so we’ve only got a minute 20
Seconds left of this observation we’ll say goodbye to Roman and then we’ll say hello to Petra it’s coming soon everyone in the afternoon the semal and the lights are picking it out and as we said earlier on conditions we talk about them a lot in climbing because they are important especially in bouldering
Especially in bouldering but it changes so much I mean during the day it is pretty hot and now it’s getting colder yeah in the morning and in the night it’s super cold uh in the afternoon it’s super hot we have to manage this to to consider this for the the climber and
For for us during the setting so yeah it’s changing every hour unbelievable it does add to it doesn’t it cuz friction and temperature can make such a difference so we’re hoping that doesn’t play too much of a part in tonight’s finals and then briefly before we say
Goodbye to you rount I really enjoyed the semi-finals for people who missed it and want to go back it was a good one it was yeah really good round yeah right the expectation was uh yeah really close from what happened so we were happy yeah okay well Roman thank you so much for
All your hard work I know we’re welcoming you back tomorrow for the uh women’s side of the comp yeah for sure we will be there well you’ll have a late night so you get some sleep and I will see you tomorrow thank you so much ran yeah thank you
Mate well we are a few minutes away from our first final of three days of climbing here in neon the men there first as you can see and then tomorrow we repeat the process with the women’s competition the semi-finals and finals and then the speed after that ready for the finals let’s get
[Applause] my expectations for the naon beach games are really really high no pressure the naon beach games is an opportunity to just be free and climb free it’s incredible that climbing is getting bigger and bigger and being part of the neon Beach Games it’s an incredible opportunity I feel like for
The sport but also for us athletes I’m hoping that the naon beach game will really have a big impact and leave a legacy for climbing as well in the area showing that climbing or other sports it moves people it brings people together it creates good emotions and that’s
Where we all should have more in our [Applause] lives keep it warm it’s good my layers I’m good well what an introduction to the lady next to me Petra Clinger we just saw you on video uh welcome to the commentary box how you doing thank you I’m really
Amazing uh it’s an honor to be here chatting to you and uh chatting about climbing well you’re competing tomorrow which is why you get to be with me but just tell us a little bit about this Stadium cuz i’ I’ve never been to a climbing comp like
It I mean uh competition is always a stressful day it’s all about perfect preparation good sleep being recovered good nutrition here as well I would say um hydration um and then just coming here focusing on the climbing uh and enjoying the surroundings and the surroundings are amazing aren’t they I mean people
Are unfortunately can’t see the Rocks behind us but the desert just goes on forever it’s really a stunning area um it it definitely makes me want to climb on these rocks it’s just like mindblowing yeah it really is that is a great way of describing here and look at
This wall so speed wall in the middle will handle all those duties on Friday the boulder wall on the right and a totally different format so if you’re just joining us don’t panic we’ll be taking you through it all but Petra the basics the athletes know the beta which
Is different from exactly like it’s totally different to normally the the athletes they got like introduction videos by the root Setters like not climbing the boulders but explaining what the idea behind the movement is uh they they were able to look at the boulders and um yeah it’s definitely
Different and it puts on some pressure because you know what it’s going to come up to you and you know the style of the boulder I’m glad you said pressure cuz I feel the pressure if I if I knew there was a way to do it I think it would get
Me more and we can see on the left by the speed wall the athletes have come out onto this the wall and they’re going to watch matchu compete which is so strange it’s really something different it’s um you can learn from other athletes so it’s definitely an advantage
If you you’re not climbing as first a but as also has like um the be up from the root sets he kind of knows the idea but of course like every athlete has different strengths and weaknesses and has to find their own way and sometimes like it can be maybe totally different
Beta than expected yeah we’ll have to see and it has been fascinating watching them mat did that unwind mood move well down low for people who are watching who don’t get it starting with your hands crossed CR why on Earth would he do that um starting hands crossed it helps you
Getting the tension on the holes so thinking of like pulling your elbows outside brings the pressure from the hands on the on the climbing hole and then unwinding to make the opposite like we can see it now to pull inside to get the pressure again um to the inside on
The on the clle yeah it is very complicated some of the sequences the athlet to do that for example a jump and a catch that’s amazing he did so well on that one like so precise and the timing was perfect well mat starts the final sequence got out to the pinch but
There’s another really hard one arm move to go at the top of that wall I mean he’s already climbed so many moves and it seems like the the last two moves are incredibly hard like getting this blue pinch on the right all the pressure is on the foot
Basically yeah it’s a vicious last sequence so he goes again 28 seconds to go and don’t worry people who are used to 4 minutes I’ll explain that in a sec but right now he’s got 20 seconds left gets the catch can’t come and I think
He’s going to finish it so this gives me an opportunity the athletes get to try each twice so the four minutes we usually have expect two yeah it’s a really interesting format so he you have two minutes to try as many tries as you
Want uh and then you get a break all the other athletes will climb and you have the chance to also watch the other athletes then and you get another 2 minutes later on so if you didn’t climb and didn’t top the boulder you have the chance of
Another two minutes it’s so strange for people who normally watch World Cups and that’s why we’re making a big deal of it but if you’re new to the sport this is a good introduction it’s totally different and it’s very exciting and R uh sorry Ritu kotani runs onto the stage 17 and
Petra he had a good round getting into the finals it was really watching him in the round before because he’s a super short athlete but like the sequences and the solutions he found for his height was impressive for me like seeing him also cruising this last Boulder I see
Like a a machine on the wall yeah but I think you are correct he’s part of that young Japanese team that are coming through I’m thinking people like Sarat you know yeah definitely like it’s insane how many strong climber Japan has like produced over the last years and
It’s so hard to be in a Japanese team I mean if they could have more athletes probably finals would be just Japanese athletes yes I think you’d be right well he’s through the first move gets the toe locked in oh a big fall now Petra he is
Landing on a mat but you can’t land on your head from that height you do have to sort of react whilst in the air definitely like it’s really crucial that you know where the the mats are also depending on how hard the mats are you
You want to land on your legs and then kind of roll down kind of as you would learn in the in other sports yeah I’m thinking Mountain B in here when they fall off and they sort of twist in the air it’s a bit like that you know yeah
But it’s interesting that as an athlete you know exactly like when the mat will come and I had this experience once where someone was kind enough to put a second mat under me and didn’t I didn’t realize and like falling down it was like hitting the floor like 10 cm
Earlier it was totally confusing and I kind of I I didn’t manage to like take the take the fall correctly so having that awareness in the air is pretty important I guess it definitely is and it’s uh definitely in a in a subconscious mind that you always know
Where the floor is okay well hopefully we’ll see no injuries here tonight but we are saying goodbye to R for his first two minutes he leaves he will rotate around and we talked about the athletes watching you can see him on the bean bags in the bottom of your screen and
Matu is straight out trying to see if anyone else can figure it Out but interesting medd shout is the only athlete watching from the ones who have yet to come as we watch uh reu there right Manu coru runs on or comes on walks on I should say ladies and gentlemen 29 years of age from Every Now Petra you didn’t catch this cuz you
Weren’t in the box but he was uh we were saying just before it started that he has very very bad skin as an athlete explain to me what what exactly that means well I definitely can’t feel with u Manu here because I also am an athlete
With bad skin it means that the skin is gone really fast on one side normally because it’s like moist or moisture than the other athletes maybe so kind of Imagine putting your fingers on a sandpaper and just like rubbing over it for a couple of times it just
Will go away and finally it goes down to bleeding and you have to tape and the friction just isn’t the same as for dry skin yeah that’s it isn’t it it’s less to do with the pain I mean Pain’s a factor obviously but that friction you
Just lose it between your hands and yeah it’s really the friction with it which is uh super important for climbing especially on holes like these we can see here they’re like we call them slopers so they’re like flat and open-handed holds where the friction actually is is the crucial part of it
Like to hold on man who is fighting through that friction unreal he does it different totally different method he’s choosing here definitely the power method this answers the question I had but I’ll talk about it ear yeah man FS yeah I was asking whether cuz you know
We in a World Cup we see interesting beta breaks cuz the athletes don’t know the sequence I was wondering whether something like this we’d still see that but clearly with manu’s method we do definitely but I think that’s the hard part about like knowing what the root
Setter expect expect you to do but having an open mind to still figure out a way which suits you personally better yeah that’s a really good point actually and obviously all the athletes different heights different sizes different styles yeah definitely like that’s what I love about climbing like you have all these
Different athletes with different heights body types but uh different strength and weaknesses and it’s an athlete’s job to find their personal way up the wall um with different solution Maybe microa uh meaning like really small changes or foot placements um to to figure out the way up like solving this puzzle yeah
Exactly a puzzle well the next one to try to attempt this puzzle is Yan lucos from Austria the athletes all obviously represent the Federation some of the Japanese athletes aren’t wearing team tops but uh not sure why but just to let you know if you’re watching at home
That’s why exactly maybe I can say something why because uh for a lot of athletes this is not an official World Cup cup so it is a chance for for us athletes to represent our own sponsors and give them like a a spot or in the
Spotlight um and also for me I will not be competing in my national team shirt because um my Federation didn’t plan this competition for me like I organized the everything myself so I used a chance to to place my own sponsors and give them the the the award for it that makes
I’m glad you told me I genuinely didn’t know that so thank you well there you go that answers the sponsor question that we had during semi-finals right y Luca BOS launching upwards locking the first few holdes well now cracks in a toe and this is where Manu tried to break the
Beater yeah he also tries it there kind of similar way same way and we definitely see with ah Jan LCA is also one of the taller athletes and he often has to find a different solution because he just didn’t fit a box or uh can reach some hole where others can’t yeah I
Wonder who read that together because you can see the thinking and he’s just touching his shoulder he’s actually speaking to one of the officials so I think he’s injured and he is asking to stop yeah so he’s hurt his shoulder and that could be that doesn’t look good no
It doesn’t at all so he leaves he’s holding that shoulder down almost like a of dislocation style injury it’s not dislocated but he looks in a little bit of pain as he leaves yeah I hope it’s nothing bad because it’s always like it’s the thing my coach told me coming here like just
Don’t injure yourself yeah and you could see that right arm I was watching it as he uncrossed oh well fingers crossed for him we will see whether he returns that it’s not so much shoulder it’s more I don’t even know what that muscle is um
It’s more like the the I don’t the um AC something I think the bit that runs down your neck that bit you know like the side u i mean the shoulder on the top you have like a lot of like ligaments coming together well fingers crossed for
Him Edward grou zits is on years I was surprised by his performance in semi-finals he looks so good yeah I was actually also really surprised but I’ve seen him over the the like this season becoming stronger and stronger and yeah like I’m psyched to see him climb and
It’s an amazing chance for him to to great performance afteron seminal get like advantage or like new experience in competition because he’s still a really young athlete yeah and wouldn’t necessarily regularly make World Cup finals as nicely has this experience well as the others have done he gets to
That stopper move in the middle that coordination move through the Zone we’ll reset a little bit here maybe also to mention why the athletes brush the holes it really helps for the friction we were talking about like skinwise if you put chalk like the the white powder on the holes like the
Little friction hole like hores I think you call them they get filled and stuff with chalk and so it gets slippery the more chalk there’s on it and brushing really helps for the friction yeah we will see the athletes and also volunteers brushing these holes as well
So a good thing to point out I think for sure right Edwards in out to the right looks to get a toe involved he’s so tall he can really stretch this Gap yeah he’s definitely also one of the tall athletes oh that was a close one
Nearly held it a bit of a smile on his face there well 27 seconds he’s going to go and this is where we start to see this because you know there’s no point just resting for 30 seconds you might as well leave and do that backstage yeah
Exactly it’s uh in 30 seconds you probably will not get like to the top and probably not get the bonus as well so it makes more sense using these 30 seconds to rest more and then come back with a with a really good solution and focus yeah well last athlete out will be
Me sha he had a statement of a semi-final I would say Four Tops out of four he’s looking like the one to beat tonight definitely he’s so strong at the moment and also like the coordination moves definitely suits him a lot yeah I would agree there a lot of them in these
Boulders as well so maybe the night for mag but he’s got to start things off strong here one move away from his own gets his feet set Comes little far away that time yeah I think also you really have to be higher than you expect to to have like a good hold on on on the the bonus hold but being high enough also to get the under cling and get a pressure onto the
Undercling yeah and we saw that big fling earlier on I think it was from mat who really just caught it um everyone else hasn’t been quite spectacular but no one’s moved through it yet so if this stays like this everyone will have the second two minutes on the Boulder and the rotation in Again easy through that first move then gets the tote now let’s see so the Pedro’s talking about the height he want to drop into that top hold a bit more yeah much better for magy oh he’s still got no feet though now he readjusts get that foot to the
Right come on come on come on come on really clever solution there but it seems like being just an incredibly hard move it does doesn’t it and no one has unlocked it yet so we will go again that 26 second will get wiped out we will
Start at the top mat is waiting I can actually see him in the gates there and he will go on again Petra for people who haven’t seen this tell us a bit about the area behind the stage because it’s a secret place uh me Immortals don’t get
To see so uh there’s a lot going on there 50% yeah so pet I was just saying how the backstage area there’s an athlete WM up there’s a wall there’s place for them to get to get ready for the comp exactly there’s a the warm-up area for just
General Mobility warmup and a little warmup wall actually and they were telling me for for the round like the first round after the slab because you have to wait longer than normally um they actually went to warm up after the laab again to be ready for the next powerful Boulder that’s good knowledge
Didn’t know that but mat is in once more he makes it look so easy it does doesn’t he cruising this now starts swing he’s on fire he certainly learned something but one big move to come here now that doesn’t count does it as a top even though we got two hands on it
No it’s like two hand stable on the top and that unfortunately was definitely not stable we saw him like spin out of the wall and then like I’m happy he’s not injured yeah me too it was a big fall from him so got two hands on it but
As Petra said he’s got to show control me sh just walked onto stage as well looking highly confused about proceedings on this Bal day he doesn’t know how to do it yeah it’s interesting I also didn’t expect like to have to do it that dynamically and really reaching
Out into this undercling like the first Blue Hole dynamically probably because also you need the height you need the the tension on the foothold and having the chiming right for the right foot and the right hand to land at the same time there’s a lot going on in this first bow
We’ve only got 40 seconds left and this will be the final time from a two so he needs to get this done no more 2 minutes right foot out this the last chance he has yeah and I think that could be it you know he wants to go again but I
Think sensibly he won’t yeah but that’s also the hard thing as an athlete because you know you you don’t get the chance to climb on this Boulder again and if it’s a really nice boulder you just you will wish to just get one last try for it yeah and the SS will be
Stripping this rout ready for your competition tomorrow the women’s round yeah well maybe maybe we have the chance to climb on it at some point if we ask the root Setters nicely to Mo them up again who knows who knows all right next athlete for their final 2 minutes Ru
Kotani is on stage we saw matu really learn from the other athletes have gone before can he do the same Ritu is in with the toe once More he’s trying to break this a bit isn’t he looked like he was trying to match that bottle like Drop in with the underlings maybe yeah I I don’t know what the idea was but it looked hard did so Ru doing it his own way here
Minute and a half left of his round and just to explain the graphic on the left those boxes you can see they’ll fill up halfway for a Zone and and a full way for a Top tow in again let’s see if he changes things up or tries that again trying to jump again that was a good try yeah it was much better thing is he’s got a few different methods now and he’s now got to commit to one really yeah that’s really the hard thing in
Bouldering if you have like multiple methods all feeling kind of possible but you haven’t done one of them um it’s really hard to to commit to one and I think we actually also saw some block there on the first hole so I I’m wondering what’s going to happen
Here yeah we learn in the semifinals these holes are are new and they’re quite grippy especially in the warm up area yeah they’re like really really tough on the skin and uh yeah re is in here yeah tough on the skin and a bit of blood hanging
Around well there we go I mean something something let go that and that is it with 20 seconds to go well he’s certainly entertaining here this evening yes I I I really I’m going to be surprised if we don’t see any tape yeah that was a blood
You were talking and at the bottom hold someone is bleeding all over those things all right well Richard can’t get it done just the zone for him but Manu coru walks on once More part of three Frenchmen in this final here tonight in the desert of Saudi Arabia has unwind as we used to seeing and then the big explosive move I wonder if he’s going to try the jump or the match as we saw it’s going to be interesting he’s going to well
He’s going to try to do it statically first of all more statically and he did it like this before it’s just so shoulder isn’t it it’s incredibly like downturned and the pressure on the foot and on the shoulder is incredible yeah powerful Boulder to start things off Manu
Again chalks up Gets Ready there is one of the brushes Petra was talking about earlier that clean the holes for the athletes and Manu coru will wait with a minute 13 to go and we have just had confirmation that uh Yan lucap will be out of this competition due to that
Shoulder injury he received on Boulder one so after Mano we will skip straight to Edwards so Manu pulls on once more there’s the toe locked in underneath a rubber on the top of his shoe making that move possible and with 40 seconds to go he’s
Got a few more goes but not getting any closer yet no he really seems to struggle and doesn’t want to commit to the jum but he’s going to give it a long try and the crowd is motivating and he’s definitely the showman so he loves the crowd and it’s insane like how much
Energy he gets from the crowd yeah and the crowd are on their feet right now they’re surrounding us here and the sound is echoing off the walls around us but I don’t think Manu is going to get this and he’s thinking about skin now and yet he will say goodbye you could
See that thought process like ah should I should I not like no all right well man who Lees us just to confirm heart go out to him he received an injury and bould number one he’s out of the comp comption now so EDS will be next as we say goodbye to manu’s
Last goes and you can see tape on his skin that was the moment injy so let’s give a big round of applause I hope he gets better soon next up we’ll be ADV we go now with h I’m excited to see if he’s going to change up the the meth or not yeah
It’s going to be interesting I mean he will have learned and straight away looks down that was a dry fire we call it like if you just like slip off the hole and you’re on the floor faster than you expect good way of describing it he just
Down that’s it well we pull on again try to make a little much better from him right let’s see this is a bit Petra wanted to see which method will he use through the middle like he’s job nice yeah strong and he immediately starts That Swing oh
No he doesn’t it’s long enough not to have to really yeah oh that foot just pressing against the vertical that insane come on someone do this move he’s fighting for a foot placement come on oh that he looks so comfortable on that H it does doesn’t he but it’s going to be
Sapping those arms a little another nasty fall there it’s dramatic stuff here in the desert time he might he should have time to rest up and go again here yeah definitely I think for me I if I have 30 seconds left normally I’ll give it another try depending on how
Long the Builder is well now he does shake his head so he’s done he will leave the stage leaving us with one last athlete medde will be out in a couple of seconds and that is the view of our stadium and Petra we’re all in tense
Which is a bit different from there’s no hotels at this one yeah we’re living actually intense sleeping on the ground but we do have like normal mattresses and covers yeah we call it glamping in Britain yeah it’s definitely glamping but it’s it’s incredible like in the
Morning getting out of the tent like the cold air because it gets really cold at night uh but like the cold air hitting your face like breakfast Outdoors like it I’m enjoying it really it’s so cool it is really unique right magy he’s have 20 seconds comes down on the first one
Want a brush yeah it’s uh that cold air that hits you it’s sort of like a coffee before the coffee it’s a nice way to wake up definitely is and um I’m really surprised how like all the athletes it’s so nice to be around the athletes and
See them in the morning and chat with them having time spend time with them also like the speed athletes yeah and the speed comp is coming up on Friday you you had to go at speed climbing today I saw an Instagram yeah I actually I I mean I haven’t the speed is since
Tokyo like 21 um and yeah then they were like choking about me doing the speed round with them and I’m like well why not like as an activation for bouldering tomorrow and actually I was so surprised how the body still remembers the the movements of the speedout and I had a
Sub 10 so I was super happy with there we go the speed will totally different from bould you’ll discover that on Friday if you stick with us and Medi starts this move once more from the ground big popup so I guess it’s going to be his last try for this
Boulder yeah everyone else has called it a day if they fall here so little micro shakes goes for the big jump nice he is in and you can see that bar on the bottom left I was talking about halfway fill for that zone that he’s got now the last
Move he didn’t try like uh Maas Walling yeah at the beginning yeah well Mei will say goodbye to us for Boulder one in fact we all say goodbye to Boulder one that’s done we won’t get to see it again and we move on to the slab of Boulder number two as we watch
Some of the replays from Mei and he looked confused at the beginning and he looked even more confused afterwards no one really figuring that sequence out yeah I think they expected it to be easier because the the holds can be confusing if they’re big you think like okay maybe they’re also
Good but the the blue pinch is so bad all right and the the last top hold is turned downward so it’s super hard to catch it actually well you saw the scores there that’s who’s currently doing well remember we lose three after Boulder number three so it’s really like
Two finals at the same time this one and now we get to see a slab so Petra for people don’t know a slab um what is a slab a slab is basically a vertical wall or almost vertical my preferred angle is 7° um and it means it’s a lot of balance
Um trusting your feet you can see now with mature he’s standing on like these flat holes and you you always have the impression that you’re going to slip soon so you really have to trust your feet you have to stand and commit to to your feet and as a climber you you want
To hold on to something and you just can’t hold on yeah that’s a good way of describing it you do want to hold on to something and in a minute you’ll see there’s just nothing for the hands and it it might look for people new to this
That you know just just stand up there it’s not so difficult and yet what he’s standing on although it looks big isn’t and it’s slippery yeah it it looks easy as you look at it because yeah as you say just stand up but the foot hole is
Big but it’s like Turned downwards so you really have to concentrate on pressuring down your foot and standing on the friction well that is and we see a good shot of that there you can see the black rubber left from his shoes from previous attempts now he’s got to trust it as he
Moves that right foot out misses progress from him he’s one away from the Zone your Dynamic move over not so good and then one big final move to come he gets himself set for the jump you got to go catch it that’s about as close as you can come
To go top without a top it’s crazy he already was so close on the last Boulder and once again like I really I really would be super happy for him to top this one he was so close you feel like he deserves it doesn’t he to
Wait again first he leaves the slab got the Zone score didn’t get the top but boy did he come close let’s have a look at this again he definitely knows what to do now oh I mean he had two hands on it for in slowmo for what looks like an
Eternity that’s a better angle just to show how quick it was every time I turn around this more more is on and off right next athlete I tell you what this crowd I don’t know where they’ve come from there’s more people right now in this crowd I’ve seen for the last couple of
Days great atmosphere here as gets going but look how heavily taped up he is all there’s three fingers on his left hand with tape on it oh yeah I think we have the uh the person responsible for the blood on Boulder one there there it is look at that going for the last
Move and Petra tape like that it might stop you know bleeding which is obviously bad and friction but it can’t give you a purchase on the hold with tape on your fingers I mean tape is just not skin um the tape the friction of the
Tape is Never As Good as your skin and also often you kind of start sweating beneath the tape so you will the tape will actually fall off so even though the tape holds on to the friction your finger is not sticking to the tape yes that’s good I know exactly
What you mean well one move and he has got it closer oh my goodness I mean he just rotated off that thing in the last moment so so close the support from the crowd is incredible they want this they want everyone literally standing up on the
Edge of their seats here he will go again 42 seconds it’s enough time for another try definitely for for getting the top right well the clock ticks down as we watch him he was super Speedy through here before hits the Zone nicely we’ll get set for the jump come on 4 Seconds readjust that right foot oh F me as he committed to it but that’s when the friction went another big round of applause ladies and gentlemen as that was so so close it was really close unreal well we haven’t seen any tops so far in this round this was close
Well this was the time where he slipped started this kick landed with the right foot and that was the better attempt when he got his hand on it yeah I think like the second time he hesitated for a second readjusting his foot and I think he just didn’t want or
He was thinking that he doesn’t want to fall and sometimes it’s just like this one thought which is enough to actually not be precise enough well let’s see if Manu can keep those thoughts Bay can’t starting off falls off that first Hold and you can see the streaks of rubber Left Behind the athletes slipping down there if you miss my explanation at the beginning those pink lines you can see there on screen one limb per line where you have to start right Manu palming off with the left hand is looking to adjust those
Feet make enough room for the left foot and he couldn’t do it that time I guess it’s maybe really hard for him because he had like an ankle injury on his right foot and you can still see that his foot is taped meaning that maybe I could
Imagine that he’s not able to really put enough pressure on his foot like bringing heal down enough to have that pressure on the foot yeah even if it isn’t support definitely we saw just a new like Dynamic version he’s trying here and it looks actually doable yeah it’s one of
Those moves the thing is because of this changing format he won’t be able to necessarily build on that development you know he’s he’s going to have to go away and that might go out of his brain we see so he’s back to the old method loving those feet is he no looks
Down at his shoes drops the glasses he means business clearly yes definitely trying to get closer to the wall like it can be millimeters which change if your body is like perfectly on the foot or not almost made a difference those glasses off dro the weight and he’s
Going again 70 seconds he wants the Zone before he goes inside I think he might get it nice really good job here from Mone corne well he has time for a top 6 seconds four comes down and look he’s cating with the BR that’s amazing he had 5 seconds left
And he just went for it he stayed Cal he had his man like mental game on and he didn’t want to like go of this last CRI he is literally walking across the sa celebrating every second of that that was the to brought that left palm in for
The first time we see it you can see like his arm like shivering yeah yeah look at the shake and then Manu just starts celebration boss mode I like that he loves the crowd and he loves like these emotions yeah we love it too thank you
Manu well we know they’re top B now let’s see if Edwards can do this WOW left hand paling up here we go has a look down at that next hole got to figure out how to do it he maybe can even just reach the bonus
He’s so tall isn’t he close and he has really long arms as well which sometimes can actually be a really big Advantage up he goes to the top a FL amazing job and a flash is when you climb it first time and it’s the
Hardest thing to do as an a yeah I mean we call it flash because he was able to look at the boulder before otherwise it would be on site but it’s really hard because it’s the mental game game to just do it perfectly and be focused till
The last hold is in your hands well that will jump him right up the leaderboard M if he wants to stay in touch we’ll want to get this one done now and he would have heard that crowd reaction he knows it’s possible thumbs involved as he presses
On careful footwe now nearly knocks his own foot off the hold slowly moving over to the bonus Zone hold looks solid on that one this is impressive stuff from Mei needs to finish it off though we know how hard this move is hold your breath everyone see if he can get it
Done gets himself [Applause] set little too Dynamic perhaps yeah maybe like nerves were accumulating here a little bit you saw him also hesitate a little bit and adjusting but now he knows he can do it it was such a massive swing with the legs on that final hold
It went right up sideways above his head almost yeah he tried to kind of keep his um center of gravity we going to let him Heath the hold so swing swinging up just a feet makes it easier to hold on to the hold but it definitely was a little bit
Too much yeah so he needs to make an adjustment there but it was a good first go from M yeah but interesting that he changed to a coordination solution but back to the static version again yeah I guess trying something a little different he might as well he’s got the time 42 seconds
Left another try for the last move oh that’s a wow that was close but he like he made it that left hand slid down and then hit the cre luckily yeah and I think even one figure po unreal well he managed to make it stick so that’s two who have done it so
Team France doing well back to mat yeah he is waiting can see him at the bottom of your screen that’s our current standing leaderboard Edwards with that jumps into the lead and above Medi uh but they are completely equal so that’s due to count back at the moment exactly
So we have like one top each two bonuses zones each in seven attempts all right so close at the top remember we lose three after bould of three so it’s important to keep an eye on that Machu is back in he’s already had two minutes in this Boulder this is his second two
Minutes hits the Zone now needs to focus with that right foot starts this swing and a kick and a jump and he’s Team France on fire Team France on fire but he he knew he already had a really really good try the first two minutes so he knew exactly what to do he
Came out and without hesitation went for it it is gray Mo from him well that was the highlights made the move look look a little less wild than his teammate Magi all right Ru second two minutes here NEC Masters 2023 he goes again similar to before as he gets that
Right foot out he so quick though through here yeah and it’s impressive how easily he on his first volume oh he’s closer than last time remembering that he’s really a short athlete so has to stand up much higher than the other athlet and it looked to
Me like he was always kind of going backwards like hits away from the wall as he stood up I mean proportionally the foot hole we see the last one they kind of Swing onto it’s higher for him so he really has to wait till his body is over
The foot to push upwards otherwise he’s just pushing out so let’s see if he can make those adjustments for this last section here gets himself set nice much better from him he was closer to the wall see like there wasion in his right leg going into the mo so little adjustments
Make a big difference he hits that top let’s see a replay of it again wow left hands making sure slapping the volume good work good smile as well from him at the top all right well not many to go Manu will be up next moving the yeah we do because I’ve
Trying to work the scoring system out myself because the rest of the athletes have done this Boulder we’re missing Jan LCA because of injury so now we move on to Boulder number three exactly AC and this remember we will lose three athletes after this Boulder and Petra
The set as described it when you weren’t here is very Rock climby in style would you agree with that just in terms of the amount of moves and the kind of sequences you’re doing it’s definitely a long Boulder also for 2 minutes yeah there’s so much you have to
Learn I mean you get through that roof which is the steepest part of the wall and then you still have to deal with a whole bunch to get to the top it looks like an impressive folder um but it seems like already the first move actually is really really hard and feel
Like it’s also friction dependent it was one of those when I got was on the mats before we started and the Setters were telling me about it you know when you sort of phase out in your head you know he started telling me so many foot
Movements that by the end of it i’ forgotten the first one it’s so complicated yeah I guess for for the athletes it’s often that these movements they come naturally especially the feet you know while hanging in the wall what what the feet have to do so you were
Able to see now with man coru he was jumping for the first um black with thumb hold yeah and then at the same time you have to catch the first hole with your foot yeah it’s complicated coordination sty there’s the toe kind of to get the tension on your right hand all right
What through that first bit look how bad those holds are the thumbs underneath on the jib I like about an athlete says it so I don’t have to you know that was a yeah he he seems like he mentioned with that gesture that it’s super hard and he yeah
He’s got to be challenged by this Boulder yeah he is it’s only the first couple of moves as well so he goes again little different also looking at his skin we saw on on the screen before that he was taking off his the tape so I guess he was like Prett comp already
Taping the fingers so he still had the chance to take off the tape if it really is necessary yeah we saw that and I saw it I think it was in ja someone ripped the tape off their fingers mid Boulder which was awesome it does happen all right edance is
Out on Boulder number three we’ve only really seen the first couple of moves to this one there’s the Zone hold right in the middle after the roof so you got to do a lot of climbing before you can get on the scoreboard I wonder if he can re oh he’s
Just holding it without the toe that man has been training some pinches he’s up and now that toe on the right scrubbing against the wall and he holds the swing yeah you see he changed like his right hand to an under cling you definitely have to see that and know that
And don’t for it while climbing yeah exactly you might have watched the video you got to remember it while on the boulder right up to the crimps now really strong climbing from here here just getting the Zone will be an achievement here he wants to bring his
Feet up this is where height might be a disadvantage nicely done like semi camper full room yeah well then he campers the left hand as well underneath so now he gets his feet and when we say campus we just mean without feet and he was without feet through that section
So super strong on this Boulder it’s a boulder of like two halves this thing we’re on the second half but he can’t get it that’s that’s hard and we see he’s just have like 40 43 seconds left on the on the clock after 1 attempt well
Yeah he’s done I mean normally in 4 minutes he’ probably sit on the mats for a minute and rest but as we said there’s no point doing that here you might as well go off and come back on exactly Che out the replay that was how close he got three holes from the
End a tough sequence still to come for him you could just see he was like nope done I wonder if he’s pumped meaning like he’s having like tired for he did a lot of moves out there are we ready all right Welly is next are we he waits in
The shadows in the middle of your screen there he is and he’s just drying liquid CH if he puts on his hands before that’s why he’s flapping him like that just drying the chalk off and then he’ll put another layer of chalk on from the chalk bag that he’s carrying
A lot of chalk here a lot of chalk chalk talk all right well Majesty will go again sorry go For the First Time 1 minute 47 on the clock me is one of those athletes who is training really hard for the Olympic as is everyone of course but he’s one that
We’re expecting or is one of the favorites to get a ticket yeah definitely um I mean it’s also very special for him because he’s from France and the Olympics going to be in Paris so they know they have one spot for sure but still it’s like a a competition in
The team like who will get that spot and who will qualify themselves as well yeah it’s intense Mei Falls in a Tetris style Body in the same position as he fell down and hit the mats there yeah and of course you will be competing as well
Trying to get one of those tickets year yeah I’m trying to get one of those tickets there are not many but who knows I know you’ll be fine Petra you’re all good yeah Petra as well for those who don’t know Petra and go and Google her if you don’t ice climbing World Champ
Boulder World Champ done everything yeah sometimes I feel like I’ve done too many things maybe I should concentrate more on one thing never right me is through that first move bumps the hand up now that changing this under to the under cling holding a swing yeah but
This is where the campus section is coming up soon here we give him a bit of rest bite and now he needs to commit to no feet after this oh he’s Crossing up now drops his feet down a fascinating stuff forget what I said about the campus
Wow me is doing it his way and it’s cool to see way Yeahs seconds he’s going to get timed out here needed too much time for the first move and then timed out kind of almost on the top part but he did get the the zone so that’s already a huge
Achievement on this Boulder yeah it’s massive and remember we lose half the field after this Boulder so this was the desperate attempt he was trying I think he might have had a better go if he’d had more time so he’ll be able to reset So currently our top three is re Su he’s
In the danger zone at the moment and mat turnout is out as it stands but he’s waiting to go on of course this the scoring system takes a while to get your head around definitely hard to to see through it but everything can change in the next two minutes to athletes get
Because no one has actually topped that Boulder yeah it’s true it’s all to play for isn’t it all right well we go from the top of the list so matuk has another look at the bow reminding himself of what he’s got to do and this is his first go on the boulder of
Course yeah we have to remember that yanuka POS is dropped out because of injury in the first Boulder so there’s a two other athletes who will drop out after this Boulder all right here we go he’s into the pinches straight towards that jib with the right
Thumb nicely done he didn’t try to get the tow hook this time nice a bit of a different method now gets the toe above his head using all the rubber on those shoes to make the move I wonder how what solution he’s going to try bumping or crossing now you
Can see his eyes flicking around he’s trying to work it out goes for the crossing and maybe matching hands he drops that down gets a foot where his hand was it SS at the moment every athlete this is got one top good towards the Zone he’s into the scoring
Area KS the foot just with the toes holding on there press he did a really amazing job on that one this is as close as we’ve seen it almost Miss but now he falls on that match that was a good good effort and with just 18 seconds left I’m not sure
If that going to be enough and he we’ll see soon big of Applause ladies genten he leaves next athlete will be re this was the cross and no texture on some of that hold the uh blacker part of the black hold if that makes sense where the logo is that has no fre
So Ritu is on he runs through the Shadows into the light of Boulder number [Applause] three tense stuff no athlete getting to the top everyone will have that second two [Applause] minutes he’s a super powerful athlete you can see like this first move no problem for him here even with his taped
Fingers yeah his fingers have stayed taped throughout the competition he trying to maintain that skin now looks drops his feet down let’s give him some support ladies and gentlemen his left hand decide to campus this move I think it was kind of necessary he just didn’t have the room to put it up
Into the dish pressing pressing with those feet yeah really working let’s it for him come on and just slipping off this hole is like so tense he’s the most dramatic Faller I think I’ve seen on the circuit hon go but it’s hard because he’s now just got 1 minute left like normally would
You would want to rest a minute but you just have to like chalk up maybe two three breath and go back into it again yeah he’s going to have to hurry up isn’t he I mean unless he’s just taking the time to work it out but that clock
Is ticking and of course the athletes aren’t used to this 2 minutes so so your internal body clock might be a bit off all right we interested how it’s going to be this way but I was talking with the athletes um afternoon or this morning um and they
Said it’s really confusing that you don’t have that time and it’s totally different like tactic wise yeah but I think re might have misjudged this he’ll probably go on top the Boulder now but you know to go with that little time on is is a bit of a strange decision yeah
It’s yeah I don’t know I would have gone or would have gone earlier because yeah we see like time is ticking yeah you get X reg getting the Zone but he’s cruising through this first part so easily and I guess maybe you know if I’m trying to
Work out his psyche maybe it allows him just to relearn those moves again so when he comes back he’s got them locked in perhaps but yeah a bit strange I’m not sure I think he actually just forgot about the time or how much time it
Actually needs to go up the wall I think you might be right Patra TR give him a way out but I think it’s a new format and I totally understand if you if you kind of don’t get that yet or you don’t know what to do yeah we’re all learning
It I mean you heard from me I’m getting this confused sometimes it’s so fascinating it’s quite nice to have something so different at the end of the season definely yeah man makes a catch this is his second two minutes on his second two minutes on the Boulder and
We’ve seen him struggling before but he did his first move really really well yeah nearly caught the swing there underneath just caught it all right he asked for a brush so Manu just instructing that brusher who he has quite a good relationship with he thought he was fist
Bumping when he got down from the boulder yeah it’s always nice to see Manu like he’s so open with all the help like the the helpers and brushers and really really nice to see him back on the map it’s actually after his injury yeah I agree with you and Laval he was
Sitting in the MC booth and he could see how annoyed he was to be there all right well Manu with 50 seconds will have his last go on this Boulder unless he falls off super early but it does burn you out this one definitely but it’s also like
The last Boulder you’re climbing maybe so it’s you have to give it all you have right makes that toe catch stick good work from Manu as he has the match in now up onto the dish you can hear the alleys through the crowd I did figure out this the be now
Like the solution how to work through this section 20 seconds 20 seconds to go crimps to come he’s not really on that hold makes the adjustment that would have burnt a bit of energy nice he got the Zone here really fighting for this and that could
Be vital so he’s got the points for that zone well we’re laughing cuz that’s an outrageous move to TRW but if someone could do it it would be to Houdini flip that left hand out to L with the right couldn’t make it work though that was that was it was really
Close it was really close outrageous from man Corner Eddie blw on the hand just before he did it what a show B love it all right well next athlete is out and we’ll have a quick look at the scores around the top three so Ru is in
The danger zone EDS has already made it through so this round really for him will just be trying to cement himself as high up the leaderboard as possible exactly because it’s going to count as well for afterwards yeah so important stuff but remember just three will make it so
Edwards won be in the final down to the end three Edwards I’m just told the MC just told me so Manu not in the finals after that so tricky from him all right Edwards again looks doesn’t really need that left toe when he does the move no he looks so strong on these
Holes but lost the toe afterwards yeah when that happens there not a lot you can do to save that no once it also gets kind of it starts slipping you basically can’t do anything and he’s got some long legs to generate some momentum definitely all right minute 24 this is
His last go on this Boulder he’s just 19 as well you forget that here we go yeah he we were discussing today we all thought that he’s much older and he’s been in the circuit for longer but he’s still so young and he’s got so much
Potential yeah can he make use this as a breakthrough certainly let’s give him some encourage left hand he’s got to be careful not to trap his own fingers under that toe come on nice come on hold on I see you pinching pinching tried the Bump now this is where the tactics start to come in he’ll want to make sure of that final Place final final Place yeah even for him it’s not clear that he will be through to to the next round because depending on what the others are doing
Yeah true they can bump yeah and he’s going to call it so he’s going to have to nervously wait now he leaves the stage that’s his potentially his first three done still old top on B me is waiting yeah so although he’s at the top now
Medi is about to climb and Manu being told hasn’t made it through so down in fifth and no chance and yaner as you know injured so he’s out too so the top we’re really looking for just one final place here minutes now we saw a really really good try from
M before so he already was close to the top and I I bet he really wants to get there one yes he does well he’s Cutting Loose down there doesn’t need that left toe initi as the right in now gets the heel swapping the right hand now to I guess now there he
Goes and now the heel above his head it’s interesting that some athletes uh take the too like the the toe part and others take the heel really depends on what you feel stronger in and also hip flexibility yes it’s true Magie gestures to the crowd there or his coach or
Someone which we see often but unique to this competition the coach can actually talk back he could help that’s true actually I haven’t thought most of us we don’t have our coach with us because the French are so many they they a coach with them come on yeah so very very different
PR but it’s certainly an exciting less than a minute here everybody Welcome probably for M it’s last try on this Boulder yeah this is kind of is it so gets himself set up with the left into the dish makes that right hand adjustment a bit quicker than [Applause] Before nice trust that left he it’s shaking away this is good work it’s really good work he’s faster than before but still just 177 seconds left on the third still going to have to move here makes the match 10 seconds now a a swap flying swap flying I’m going to
Steal that that’s a good way to describe it well the flying swap didn’t work and he will leave and that’s our top three we keep showing you cuz it’s really important Mei in his second position at the moment and mat really I’m trying to work out the maths
Here but he can still get in so important moments here as he waits B to I mean if he tops he’s in yeah and we’ve seen no one do that yet he had a really really good try before all right fingers cross my he waits our drone that’s a skillful
Drone flying then in the dark creeps past one of the cliffs that surround this and you can see the projections on the back of the wall yeah and you see on the left side the athletes village with the tents up really nice uh with a ping pong and like
Table soccer and like really a lot of fun stuff for us athletes to interact as well I did that classic like o I can see my house or my tent anyway yeah all right no one’s robbing it thank goodness how we doing everyone well here we go a
Little bit of a pause here as we wait I think we’re all ready to go just waiting for timings mat has been in that holding zone for quite a while nervously looking back gets the and now he will run across the Wall two minutes to try to get into this final what can he do I mean he knows the boulder he knows what to do now it’s time to execute the plan yeah this is where that pressure we were talking about really starts to take
A toll left toe in yeah he seems like he knows and he wants to do this yeah you can see it in his body can’t you he’s choosing toe um MD he took the heel yeah true we saw it shaking around now he drops that he looks so solid on his first
Part so in control now we’re getting into the last part on the big swing of the foot press over oh look at this from M we know he needed shakes out his right hand on this one he looks so good high point from him now and we’re
Very close the tow on on the right oh man I think he’s a guy falling off the tops on basically every Boulder he’s got so unlucky hasn’t he and I think he might be done he is done that was it got it well we’ll wait for our scores because we about to lose
Three athletes we got Ritu next of course yeah it’s actually between the Ritu one more and mat well it’s basically decided because mat decided not to give it another try I wonder if if he he knows or knew his standing and if that would have changed his decision
On a lost try yeah we’ll have to ask him afterwards but this is it from Ritu so he’s in but again for positioning purposes this is important on that final Boulder left heel reaches above his [Applause] Head cruising through this first part campusing this move to the Zone he’s keeping that power that we were talking about at the beginning of the rounds looking strong still like also interesting that he finds a totally different solution here he keeps his and another dramatic fall from him it is brilliant whoever’s on
The slow motions needs to cut this up for some kind of a highlight reel it is spectacular but a minute to go our Russ a friend runs on and then immediately runs this dude needs a medal himself I’m loving this guy he’s giving it all he
Has yeah to find out that man’s name immediately get him in the commentary box he’s doing a great job he runs out of shot reu pulls on again like 45 seconds left and the first time we actually saw him fall on this first move or first part because he was so solid on
This first bit and see like he’s got energy like endless energy I’d agree with you and remember how bad his skin is as well yeah he’s climbing with three tapes on the left hand crazy isn’t it yeah just the pinky and the thumb not taped right big move over
Seconds here we go campus move from him I love this solution he chose yeah that bump as well but 9 seconds he’s not going to be able to get this done we do know he’s in the final already the final final rightjust the left hand get timed out love to
See yeah we came so close the turn out but not to be weu will lead and now which is a bit unusual we will lose three of our athletes keep three for the final and now we see that confirmation so edvards Mei and Ritu and I would
Never expect EDS to be at top of that board no it’s really it it shows Once More that these special events it gives like a younger athletes a chance to come climb without pressure and show what they are actually capable of and it boosts their confidence immensely
Exactly if he walks away with a goal there’s going to be a party by the fire tonight you well that will come up in a couple of seconds our final Boulder of the evening in the line and the audience here are just preparing themselves for this moment coats are on it’s cold here
In the desert the sun long ago disappeared behind the mountain behind us and Petra being cold like this it it helps it’s better than being super hot and sweaty yeah it definitely is better for the friction to be cold because you’re not sweating that much but personally I prefer if it’s not that
Cold because body and muscle wise I feel more comfortable if it’s a little bit warmer but I mean they the guys are moving they have the warm-up zone so it’s all about keeping warm behind putting on jackets and just coming out in the t-shirt for climbing I like the
Fact you said you prefer it a little bit warmer and you are the ice climbing World Champ so uh fair enough well but honestly um there’s like technology which helps me keep warm like heating socks and Glo which were he so that’s a big difference Pro tips here yeah none
Of that available here for us right our last Boulder is almost ready to be revealed you can see the light show going on across our Boulder wall itself one the most exting there is the speed on Friday I’ve just noticed that pattern kind of links to the Rock behind I
Hadn’t sort of put those together yet yeah it looks amazing seeing this projection on the wall behind it kind of makes the bouldering H Team so small even though it’s like a 4 M wall yeah the perspectives are weird to figure out is it the mount like the
The rock around here is so high anybody here next day like oh yeah I can’t wait to see you guys comparison like how high it actually is yeah I agree and and when you stand on top of one of those big rocks as I may or may not have done
Earlier that you look out we’re just in the middle of nowhere I mean we’re a dot in this desert yeah it’s really you can see so far and it’s for me especially as a Swifts like we always have like hills and mountains everywhere and here you
Just can see so far there are rocks everywhere but the view is spectacular and there are like the camels just like walking around freely you say this and you told me this yesterday I haven’t seen one I don’t believe they exist they’re not out there pet I will show
Them to you tomorrow okay to be fair I did see camil story where she was drinking camel milk I think it was it might have been goat must have been goat milk but she was in some kind of an enclosure with animals so uh there all right here we go the MC Hypes
Things up here that is our crowd who have not only come from our tented area but have come in from the surrounding area as well D oh yeah it’s like a music festival right here in the desert keeping this G Going for it’s amazing like the surrounding and the
Area it it really makes you feel in a different world it’s a dream yeah and for a lot of athletes their last comp of the Year yours presumably included it’s it’s amazing to finish a season like this also exactly because it’s more a friendly competition it’s less pressure it’s about the fun and
Being here together creating something together with the like all together um and like I’ve heard it from many athletes we’re just all enjoying the time we have together and um making the best we can yeah it it’s it is a lovely atmosphere to be part of and there’s
Lights there there’s a when one of our shots picks it up there’s a big fire for everyone to gather around we had singers a yoga session last night yeah and there was like um uh morning ritual today as well I didn’t take part but with like um the
Bowls they oh okay how early was the morning ritual I think it’s 7 okay but they drove out like behind the The Rock to have like a full silent and um I don’t know how you call it like a these metal bowls or like different metal bowls making these oh like sounds
Okay yeah yeah I know what you mean sound well we’re just going to uh go down to our MC who’s going to introduce our final three okay we are ready to get under way with our top three in the final final final of the men’s finals the fourth border and the
First athlete Edwards guiti L well here we go Edwards is out on stage this is to discover who is going to be our winner here here we go our first look the last Bower of tonight and it’s another coordination Bower really amazing job on this jump
But so close yeah it was close and the Space Balls as they’re called are to come those big blue volumes no jibs on there they’re going to have to wrestle with that the top of that Boulder yeah I’m excited to see what they they’re going to come up
With his first move looks so hard always with a smile does doesn’t it the right foot swinging Out Underneath right cleans that zone hold Up so already got one top on Boulder two just zones and the other two but currently sitting in first position yeah he did a solid top on the on the first like on the the slab and he hold almost hold it yeah you can see that Palm nearly saved him by
Going down but not quite yeah yeah it’s an interesting move like you have to starting position straight on and then you kind of cross over onto your palm jump up to the zone and kick your foot on this kind of banana hold yeah that banana hold the yellow and black
One that with the right foot and that gesture we’ve seen from lots of athletes tonight are sort of like what what do I do yeah with these coordination moves it’s a lot about timing you feel like it’s impossible but as soon as you get the timing right it it feels like why didn’t
I do it before like what did did I do wrong it’s like these little things timing final Boulder and finals yeah and of course with this system that sometimes the athletes will learn a coordination move but they have to then go away and it’s it’s hard to keep that
Muscle memory yeah it’s really hard to keep the muscle memory on the other hand I feel like it can also be a chance because you can cool down your skin you can like visualize your movement maybe and come back having a plan and really going all
In do you have an idea of your tactics for tomorrow having watched this competition have you sort of adjusted the way you’re approaching tomorrow or you just going to see what happens um I was thinking about it a lot but it’s so hard because just watching is different than competing I feel like
It’s all about good tries fast tries and good resting all right well I’ll remind you that tomorrow Sami but Magi close really close I thought he’s going to get it there but it seems like the body is turning really fast and Spins you out of the wall again yeah it’s one of those
You jump into a big hold and yet it’s the body position that makes it difficult ooh nice job here from can see how his arm got stuck but his body just was turning wrestling with BL yeah that is the wrestle move cuz often with a hole like that we’ll see a
Jable something screwed onto it but not with this it’s just pure friction it’s pure friction pure power kind of squeezing this bowl together and also you can see he had like his right foot on the zone and it popped a little bit too early I guess it’s going to be a
Control into this under Clan and at the same time stabbing against the the side wall here we go yeah it’s not over once youve wrestled through that ball so Mei will go again much better a really big swing here from the left noise come bring it bring we see the heel hook on
The right this time hopefully hear you let him hear you he reaches all the way over to this second last and could be it one hand on he needs two he loses the scary moment there amazing that might have done really good things for me score so he is
Done that’s it for his comp he’s done for today yeah I mean for yeah um really really great job from him and amazing last bull W he gets a big smile in his face and what a performance he wanted the crowd behind him before he started climbing he got their support that the
Space ball check out the slow motion action adjusting it kicking that and watch this left foot cuz it did slip when he matched yeah now it’s going to look drop down luckily the the top hold is for him good enough even though it’s really bad terrible this yeah they are different level and
We’re explaining this earlier during the semi-finals uh these are the Elite remember although it might look like they’re making it easy for 99% of the population they’d never even be able to pull off the ground on this thing yeah definitely level is incredible and you could see like he chose a
Different like starting position with crossed legs let’s keep an eye on that yeah so I changed back he does like to mix things up for us do re W he stares up EDS is on the side of the stage he’ll get to go again in a minute enement ladies and gentlemen yeah come
On now the difference it Mei brought his left foot all the way around behind him is sort of like a a backward flag yeah kind of a scorpion on the side really taking this swing mainly with his leg and trying to keep uh his right arm and
Body stable yeah was Ru maybe relying a little bit more on his pinch power to get through here not working at the moment for him yeah but you have to also say that it’s like a super bad hold and it’s a lot also about the timing of the foot on on the
Hold so much going on his head and he won’t be he won’t be thinking through all this whilst he goes I mean it will you know Instinct requires it it it definitely is in coordination moves a lot about your body doing what it knows to do and Trust body he the crowd as
Well you can do it Gentlemen let’s really raise the RO come on well here we go 30 seconds left on the clock for his first go on this it wasn’t really good try this time closer and closer he goes I think it might be almost done for him
Though he’s going to have to be so quick if he’s going to get can do it people he really want got to give it another try he did this on B of three as well yeah true why not there we go for the double slap as
Well brilliant well he gets the on and now he goes to the edge of the stage again this is something very unusual for comp climic sits down and he’ll now wait for EDS to have his second go another attemp for Edwards Gia yeah so he also was able to watch
Mage din do the Boulder and he knows exactly how it potentially would work but he’s definitely a different size but he’s learning he is learning and he’s in now friction is important those Palms gets healing exactly like really move over he definitely can re if M can reach
The under cling he can ladies and gentlem really solid work on this movement amazing left hand up needs to make the match and he does that is another that was impressive like you could really see how he learned from watching visualizing probably as well and nice to see him like crushing this
Competition right so we’re looking at the scores because M’s currently at the top and what I want to look at is can Ritu jump above Him yeah we might do so many attempts going on here but R is our last athlete out but look how many attempts there are yeah but even though he can’t SK onto the second place it’s like the athletes they just want to climb the Boulder so
He will try what he can to climb this Boulder and will definitely not not try exactly well he’s been spectacular so far I want him to finish off on a high here and now it’s basically just time to enjoy even more this last minute of of climbing for
Him yeah you can forget about skin at this point can’t you doesn’t matter you’re going all in now there he is VE and edad sitting watching big prize pot at stake here of course so close on this jump yeah he’s done it once he got it just before the
Buzzer my favorite brush up doing a sterling job there I I to suggest we fly this man around the world for the World Cups I think we so what Mak you kind of doing wrong in coming together it’s hard to say I think it’s the the timing which is not perfect um
But with these movements it’s so it looked like he did nothing different maybe it’s just like mentally wanting to sque oh the heel popped of all things and there’s an edge there as well so he’ll be disappointed about that yeah but he has time he has another 30
Seconds left he does and he will keep going as we know he will but this might be as Las go falls on once more Nice left toe caught him there he pressed it against the space yeah also here it’s really hard because the others were able to reach the to already he kind of has to find another solution but amazing job from all three of them I’m like I’m really impressed
Yeah we’ll just wait for confirmation of these scores but we think we know he wins it magy sha is on the top spot there you can see two boulders of a and it all came down to the attempts as you can see 15 compared to 19 and that’s what made all the
Difference the lead and the win awesome from him well we have interviews and podiums and highlights to come of course so don’t go anywhere stick with us but Petra we might say goodbye to you so you can go off and enjoy the desert night Petra best of luck for tomorrow thank
You so much see you soon pet thank you Pi up noise ladies and gentlemen [Applause] What a day it has been what a day it has been so our top three stand in the spotlight our broadcast interview we’re waiting for our interview to be set up as well man in the middle what a win for him he seemed relaxed all competition the athletes just waiting
Now MC is dancing along there in the front and the athletes are escorted off towards that interview so let just let you know what happens over the next couple of days after this we’re done with the men’s side of things in terms of Boulder tomorrow we move on to the
Women’s semi-finals and finals starting at 3 p.m. Saudi Arabian time 700 p.m. tomorrow and then on Friday we have the speed that wall in the middle has been used as practice and the athletes will get a chance to compete on it on Friday well we found mey down at the
Front let’s hear from our winner shall we mey many many congratulations how does it feel to come here to our brand new venue like this and when in such style yeah it’s really crazy to climb here I really love to to climb here and the atmosphere I feel like uh yeah it
Really boosted me for to clim and yeah I’m very happy with my performance tonight just how difficult was that wall no one toed out on one or three it looked really really tough yeah it was really tough and uh yeah I don’t know I feel like the boulder is where really
Long so if you fail one time it’s hard to do it on the next try so yeah but how did it feel when you were there at the top end of the fourth Boulder knowing that victory was just in your grasp yeah I was a bit shaking but um
The end was not really hard and the Skyball was really sticky because it’s not so so hot here and um yeah I just gave everything and yeah I’m happy and you were pushed all the way as well particularly by ards how tough a competition has it been yeah it was a
Tough competition but uh I was wasn’t feeling so much the pressure and it was more friendly competition yeah and just finally just how much have you enjoyed the experience of being here this fantastic crowd here tonight as well and being in this amazing setting here in Neil yeah the sitting was great the
Venue was great and the crowd was great everything was perfect many congratulations well done Mery yeah thank you thank you to Mery our winner here tonight and when we get set up for the podium let’s watch some highlights from earlier on in the darkness of the desert N Well that was the highlights from a fantastic day of climbing and it’s now time to celebrate the podium finishes let’s go down to the front of the stage and our MC ceremony for the neom ifsc Masters 2023 please welcome the medalists for the neom IFC Masters 2023 men’s Boulder
Competition and the medals will be presented by Mr Pierre U treasurer of the International Federation of sport climbing and in third place the bronze medal representing Japan Ritz s [Applause] t and in second place and the silver medalists representing lvia Edward [Applause] Grtis and first place and the gold medalist and the winner of the neom IFC Masters 2023 men’s border competition representing France M Shar ladies and Gentlemen please rise for the National Anthem of France The Ladies and gentlemen the of the our Podium finishes gathered together on the top spots but me shark will take the prize money and bragging rights here in the desert medals held up and of course they will be getting those all important photos from our journalists gathered down at the front
What an event it’s been he what a long day of climbing and Mei was looking on form right from the semi-finals and as he bites that gold medal you could tell it’s a gold way to finish his season and it will be done for him after that Laval
Comp the Olympic qualifier where he didn’t get the ticket he’s now going to go away and reset and get himself ready for next year and hopefully a chance to qualify for those Olympic Games in Paris this is just last confirmation of our results that top three Mei Edwards and
Ritu to mat Manu and heart goes out to Jan Luka POS we hope he heals up after that injury well that’s it for today we will return tomorrow for the women’s semi-final 3 p.m. Saudi Arabian time thank you to Petra Kingler my name is Matt groom and we will see you tomorrow
To see you back here tomorrow until then my name is rlo good Night
41 Comments
2 minutes , stupid format
To bad the video quality is so bad and grainy
The location is more than unfortunate. No boundaries what so ever…
I'm definitely not a fan of this format. Didn't feel like the athletes had the time to really get into a boulder. On and almost immediately gone again
it's cool and all but it's also a shame to the sport in my opinion, bringing climbing into this neom project in Saudi Arabia , which is a dictatorship with has slaving and has very little right of say, I and many others really disagree with the way the IFSC is taking the sport and I don't think this is the last time 😡
Thanks for the upload! And great to have Petra as a commentator but maybe spell her name correctly next time 😉
Damn that was so stupid
Could someone explain this format? Commentators said they have another 2 minutes after first 2 minutes,but no one took another 2 minutes for M1,2,3. Just 2 took another try for the last boulder. What does it mean? If they take another chance for M1,does it mean they have to give up the chance to try M2?
There's a very slight jerkyness to the video. Just enough non smoothness to irritate me. And then the darkness…no thanks. But I will push through, because it's still awesome.
is it just me, or there is no sound anymore?
Loved it!! This has been my first experience of seeing sport climbing in person. It’s been a superb 3 days and the athletes, coaches and friends, such a great friendly community.
Makes me want to get involved with a climbing gym when I get back home. 😊
I’m looking forward to finding out when I can watch another one of these competitions, somewhere near where I live.
Interesting format. And – of course – as always awesome commentary! BUT: awful camera! Can maybe someone make these guys aware that it is not helpful to randomly show only the feet or hands while the climber is on the boulder? I suppose they don't know anything about climbing/bouldering and what the audience actually wants to see. It is a bit like watching a soccer game, but the camera always focuses on some random player.
Didn't hate this experimental (at least for this stature of comp) format. A rest makes so much sense. I'm just not in love with the early elimination of some athletes. That one French climber who touched the final hold of Men's 3, to not being allowed to climb the next round, made no sense.
Did Manuel cornu get kicked out of the final?
I for one, welcome oil money being spent on sports other than soccer
I'm really disappointed in the IFSC that cooperate with a regime like Saudi Arabia
Despite the politics I really do not like the time format
Choqué de la participation d'athlètes comme @mejdi.schalck et Simon Lorenzi à ce sport washing organisé par l'Arabie Saoudite. L'@IFSC fait elle aussi une faute lourde.
L'Arabie saoudite est une dictature sanguinaire, climaticide, guerrière (Yémen) et misogyne. Tout l'intérêt pour eux d'organiser ce spectacle dont vous êtes les acteurs, c'est d'attirer la sympathie et l'admiration pour cacher leurs crimes. L'Arabie saoudite se fout de l'escalade et méprise les valeurs de notre sport. Vous vous rendez complices de fait d'une stratégie politique dont l'autre versant, loin des spots, et d'asseoir son pouvoir au détriment de vies humaines et de notre environnement.
Si vous avez participé sans réfléchir, reprenez vous et s'il vous plait, ne refaites plus cette erreur.
Lord in heaven
I always thought human beings would abuse the wall but it is the opposite now
there is a world cup in a city that doesnt even exist jet? somebody better calls the fifa, the ifsc is coming for you…
Why they are so skinny? like they dont eat too much
Malacis Edvard (y). Liidz shim nezinaaju, ka Latvieshi arii tik augstu tikushi.
Way toi much zoomin and cuts here. I want to watch climbing not Hollywood.
everything so powerful nowadays. XD
apparently with got a foot fetish in the camera team……….
Why is everyone hating on Saudi Arabia? It's a beautiful country with nice people.
This format is stupid, make it 2+ goddamn
I think with this new time format they should get two times 2.15min, because with 4minutes they only lose a try once at the end of the time. But with two times two minutes they lose twice a try at the end of the 2 minutes
Thanks for the upload but with this type of route-setting (esp the longer boulder) and only having 2-minute attempts, it’s no wonder these athletes are risking injury. The format is disjointed and less enjoyable to watch – even if the camera person was more adept at catching the full movement/attempt instead of focusing on a foot. Experiment is done – let’s stick with the 4-minute format please
Did Petra and Matt get paid to make such nice comments about the venue, the organization….
It's too much
And the interviewer at the end who only wants Mejdi to say nice things about the event, but is not really interested in his performance…
Say hi to MBS from all the journalists of this democracy…
Where was Adam 🙂 ?
Really great to watch again amazing contest on official channel, thanks IFSC !
Really great to watch again amazing contest on official channel, thanks IFSC !
Why did they change the format to 2 minutes and go out a second time? I feel like this they do not have enough time to try. Was it 5 minutes before?
1:10:03 my heart had been stopped for a moment
Pathetic sportswashing. Money first!
Saudi Arabia heard "women's bouldering" and thought it meant stoning women. Imagine their surprise when they found out women were allowed to compete.
I really like the venue mc!
👍👍
My hands are sweating