Mit dem Fahrrad von Mainz nach Koblenz auf dem Rheinradweg | ARD Reisen

Eine weitere tolle Rhein-Radtour findet ihr in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/radtour-rhein-koblenz?yt=d

Auf dem E-Bike bis nach Koblenz entdeckt Arndt Reisenbichler unterschiedliche Seiten des Rheins. Auf dem Rheinradweg geht es für ihn von Mainz nach Koblenz. Bei Bingen wechselt er die Rheinseite. Mal taucht er ab ins Kloster Eberbach, mal geht es hoch hinauf. Die Tour führt vorbei an großen Weinlagen, auf Treidelwegen, durch Auenwälder, hübsche Orten bis hin zur Burg Stahleck und Burg Rheinfels. Auch im achtsamen Reisemodus gut an einem Wochenende zu erleben: eine tolle Tour durch das Weltkulturerbe des Mittelrheintals.

00:00 Intro
01:28 Störche, Wein und der Leinpfad
09:56 Kloster Eberbach
17:16 Drosselgasse und Niederwalddenkmal
21:29 Skulpturen und Schwimmen in Bingen
25:08 Burg Stahleck und weitere UNESCO-Burgen
27:46 Stadtmauer-Rundgang und Günderodehaus
32:56 Burg Rheinfels und tiefe Gewölbekeller
39:13 Fahrrad-Aufzug zur Festung Ehrenbreitstein
43:58 Abmoderation

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#koblenz #mainz #ardreisen #expeditionindieheimat #rhein

“Expedition in die Heimat – Der Rheinradweg von Mainz nach Koblenz” ist ein Film von Heidrun Wieser. Dieser Film wurde 2023 im Auftrag des SWR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert.

Untouched paths. Overwhelming landscapes. World Heritage Site. Great mood included, on the most beautiful route of the Rhine cycle path. So… to Mainz. There Bingen. Middle Rhine Valley. Koblenz. This is what my tour looks like – very professionally planned, as one does. I’m looking forward to a lot of highlights. I’m on the road for two days, 100 kilometers along the Rhine. I’ll experience a lot, so don’t waste any time.

Let’s go on an adventure in the Rhine Valley. So, now the Rhine cycle path route in a little more detail. On the right bank of the Rhine we go through the Rheingau… with a short detour to Eberbach Monastery and on to Rüdesheim. There we change side of the Rhine.

In the Upper Middle Rhine Valley we cycle past countless castles and the Loreley until we reach Koblenz. So we start on the right side of the Rhine. For once, we’re leaving Mainz aside. First eye candy – the baroque castle in Wiesbaden-Biebrich and the idyllic harbor in Wiesbaden-Schierstein. Directly behind the harbor in the water protection area: storks – not easy to spot. Hubertus Krahner is here every day. He feels responsible for at least 46 stork nests this year. And…what in the nest? Two young and one adult bird are inside right now. Real? – Yes. And just been fed. – Did I miss the feeding?

(laughing:) A bit like that. Do you want to take a look? Yes, absolutely. But the boys are already quite big. Yes, I expect they will fly in two weeks. Yes? – Yes. Of course, it’s a real effort for the parents when you consider that they eat 25 mice a day.

Oh. – Converted into earthworms and crickets, this is correspondingly more. They have to work really hard. – Pretty good. It’s really stressful for the adult birds. There were once no more storks in Hesse and Rhineland-Palatinate until the early 1970s. Then Krahner and his friends quickly built nests and bought their first storks.

And in this paradise there have been more and more of them over the decades . And they don’t mind in the slightest that the bike path runs right past their nests. Krahner has seen around 1,000 storks grow up here and has always observed everything closely. So, they are artists. – Yes. And this nest easily weighs two hundredweight. Oh yeah, really? – Yes. Brought everything in with his beak. And in the middle it is padded with moss and hay.

Yes. What a job, right? – What crazy work. Busy birds. – Yes. Thank you very much. – All right, take care. Bye. – Still nice watching. Thank you very much. – Ciao! The first town in the Rheingau is Walluf. Way too nice here to just drive past. Just how I like it here. I would like a grape juice spritzer. You have a lovely time here. It’s like a vacation to work, right? Yes. – Aren’t you too warm in there? Nope. – Today we have passage. Thanks. – Gladly. No alcohol yet. Hello. Can I sit with you? Yes. – (laughing:) There’s still room. You look like you come here often. Yes. – Or? That’s correct. – With the dog there… What do you like here? The wine. – (laughing:) The wine. It’s not the end of the day for me yet,

So just grape juice. – I already noticed. I still have a few kilometers to drive. Very nice. Where are you going? – Total to Koblenz. Very nice. – (laughing:) Not today. Why? No lights on the bike or what? Yes, exactly. – Luggage carrier?

I have a luggage rack, yes. Do you want to come? No, where can you take a bottle of wine? Yes, I didn’t want to… I even have luggage rack bags. Oh, several bottles go in there. We’re in the Rheingau, right? It’s important, yes. I’ve arrived here now,

And then suddenly there’s a barrel there. Is it often the case that there are things like that here? Yes, every town along the Rhine has a wine tasting stand, which is usually on the Rhine. – And beer gardens? What? – (laughing:) Okay. In a wine region…a vineyard.

We have a vineyard up front here. This is a winemaker from here. He has a vineyard, which is 200 meters further ahead. A vineyard – means you can have a picnic here like in a beer garden. Drinks and small snacks are available. You bring your own food with you. Organic winemaker Hajo Becker had the idea for this in 1985. Relaxing music) Hello. Good day. – This is a service. Cheers for good. – For the benefit. Nice that you are here. – Yes very much. This is a great concept. – With the aim of encouraging people

To come here with their food, as you can see, including tablecloths. That’s why you can also reserve seats. And enjoy the wine from here. In the beginning they brought damask tablecloths, candelabra, silver, real cutlery and everything. At first, the crème de la crème from Wiesbaden came here and celebrated. Yes. – They noticed:

If I celebrate at Becker’s Weingarten, my apartment is clean the next day. That was the concept. And not everyone has a garden like that. That is the uniqueness of this garden. I am grateful that I was born in this area and that I can be here. If I continue right now,

I really like the route along the Rhine… Well, what’s very rustic is the bit between Walluf and Eltville. This is an untouched towpath, nothing is paved. Everything is still a bit bumpy there. Sometimes there’s water on it and you can’t drive at all. Unfortunately there is a ban on bicycles on this route

Because these people were simply driving too recklessly. The ones with their racing bikes, hum, hum, hum. If someone drives through there comfortably…slowly, no one will say anything. – Okay. But simply to have something to handle in general… If you cycle along comfortably, say “Hello” in a friendly manner when you pass people,

No one will take much notice. If, as Hajo says, this section of the historic towpath is particularly beautiful, I want to experience it. Then I’ll just push. So, if almost no one except me uses the path today, I’ll drive a little bit – very slowly. Horses used to pull ships up the Rhine on this towpath. And it seems to me as if almost nothing has changed on this rustic path. I’ve just found my private beach here – I have to try it out. Ah, refreshing and quite clear, the Rhine water. It’s gorgeous. I drive close to the water the whole way. Very clear recommendation. The path leads four kilometers to Eltville. In total I’ve already traveled 15 kilometers. The wine, sparkling wine and rose town of Eltville is known for its rose garden in the middle of the electoral castle. Medieval flair – simply beautiful, for the eyes and the soul. Wow…that’s a perspective. Hello! – Hello! I would like a Spundekäse pretzel. And I’ll have another Aperol Spritz, please. Mmm. Are you ready? Thank you very much. There you go… Thank you. It really is an incredibly great place here. The practical thing about this Rhine cycle tour is that you hardly have to take anything to eat with you because there is something to eat and drink every few kilometers. I enjoy that. Bye, Eltville. A little bit out of the town and then I definitely want to take a detour, with the e-bike it’s a piece of cake. Four kilometers through the top vineyards of the Hessian state winery. To the largest winery in Germany: Eberbach Monastery. The monastery is famous because the film “The Name of the Rose” was filmed here, but also because of the annual “Rheingau Music Festival”. With its impressive Romanesque and early Gothic buildings, it is one of the most important cultural monuments in Hesse. Here you can spend time alone

Or stroll around with the head of the monastery foundation, who knows every corner very well. That’s the only window in here now, right? That’s the way it is. And an extraordinary one. Huh? – Yes. Interesting, right? – Yes. The “mobile phones”. It’s funny. – Yes. This is not from that time. Of course not. It used to be glazed, but this is the work

Of a modern, famous German artist: Thomas Bayrle. And the overall design of the cell phones shows the so-called Pietà: Mary holding the dying Jesus. So, it’s a nice… – A nice idea. Yes, and a modern but also beautiful dialogue with the sacred building of the abbey.

The cloisters, including this one, were completely glazed in the 15th century, with beautiful, elaborate, colorful glazing. This was all destroyed in 1803 when the monastery was secularized . In this respect, this is a special reverence to this actual state, but using the means of modern art.

By the way, it’s usually children who are the first to check that these are “mobile phones”. It takes adults a while to see this. The very little ones understand this immediately. Children are quicker at everything. – Yes, just the generation now. Wow. – Gigantic, right? The big presses. – Yes. What a device. Absolutely – and still functional. Real? – Yes. This is a wine press. – This is a wine press. Everything here are wine presses from 300 years ago, which used to be made entirely of wood and, yes…

You can clearly see what quantities were processed. (laughing:) Yes, exactly. So, they drank a lot. They drank a lot and produced a lot and successfully. It was the world’s largest wine trading company in 1500 alone. The monastery church is a Romanesque basilica – monumental and very purist. You immediately feel like you’re in the Middle Ages. If you look up, this vault of heaven. Exactly, that’s how it’s intended. This was the monks’ dormitory and the filming location in “The Name of the Rose”, where the library was located and, above all, you could see the forbidden door. Why banned? Because the writings of the forbidden ancient philosophers were hidden and could be burned at the stake.

And construction site right now? – Pretty comprehensive, actually. The entire vault of this truly huge monks’ dormitory is being restored. So this was the dormitory? – That was the dormitory. Fantastic. – This is the hospital basement. Very impressive indeed. I immediately feel awe. Yes, you can be too. Is a really very special and extraordinary building from the early 13th century. Guests of the monastery used to be accommodated here. And now, as you can see,

It has been a wine cellar for many, many decades. A historic wine cellar. Did you prepare the candles especially for us? Naturally. We do that often. Guests can book wine tastings here and then of course it will be filled in exactly the same way, including with this romantic candlelight.

I didn’t know we were going on a date, but… Haha, yes we are. – Great. A glass of wine goes well with a date. What I would recommend, a classic Riesling from Steinberg. You drink Riesling here, right? This is also the local mountain of Eberbach Monastery.

And the one that the monks… very much cherished, very valued and cared for. Yes. – Was a great tour. Thank you. – It was fun. Yes very. – This area is fantastic. Mmm, right. And the wine too. Back to the Rhine cycle path. The next town is Oestrich-Winkel. With a small pleasure boat marina and the historic loading crane from the 18th century, the Old Crane. After 30 kilometers I arrive in Rüdesheim. I still have to get 20 today. So I’m going to give myself a break now. The Drosselgasse. For many tourists it is the number one tourist attraction in the Rheingau. An estimated three million people from all over the world come here every year. Incredible. Totally unusual that Drosselgasse is so empty. Normally it’s bustling with Americans and Japanese. Lucky. Whenever I’m in Rüdesheim, I definitely have to take the cable car to the Niederwald Monument. The view up there is supposed to be great. The cable car starts directly in the old town, super practical. And this is a monastery of the world-famous Hildegard von Bingen, who comes from this area. And there are still Benedictine nuns there and they grow wine, as you can see. Hey! Oh, I could float over the vines like this for hours. You definitely have to take Instagram pictures here. Very nice, very nice. (laughs:) Oh my god. I copy a few poses so I know how it works on Instagram. This one is important. No? Here, like this. That the hair appears like that. And I just learned to put one leg up. OK. Pop it up! From the Niederwaldtempel to the Niederwalddenkmal. A victory monument from the imperial era. 40 meters high, weighs 75 tons. The Germania. That over there is now Bingen, and I have to go there now. Because my bike tour now continues on the left bank of the Rhine. And then I’ll take the ferry straight over. Goodbye, beautiful Rheingau. And hello, Rhineland-Palatinate and Upper Middle Rhine Valley. It starts at Bingen. Bingen has an endlessly long waterfront promenade with a sculpture every few meters making the path more colorful. There’s some funny stuff there. There is a natural swimming pool above Bingen. One of three in Rhineland-Palatinate. I’ve always wanted to try this and now is the opportunity. The natural swimming pond is 2,000 square meters in size. It feels a bit like I’m swimming in a mountain lake. It’s also a bit chilly today and I’m pretty much alone. Peppermint. Very cool: the panoramic view of the Rhine Valley. I was just in there. I would say it feels like great water quality. (laughs:) Well, I tried it. I thought it was delicious. Yes, no taste of chlorine, Arndt, right? – No, totally fine. It is filled with drinking water,

But we have biological treatment. You can also see an algae swimming. But that’s it and then you can swim deliciously. Even all the plants around it, is there a cleaning concept? Yes, exactly, there is a biological filter system. The plants that we see in the background in the bank areas

Are a type of filter. The second type is installed below. There’s a pump running 24/7, like you know from a classic swimming pool. Microorganisms live there and feed on everything that doesn’t belong there. And then the water tastes so delicious when you try it. In the summer you probably have a big problem

With the crowds of people coming here, right? A small downside to our natural pool is that we only allow 1,800 people into the pool every day. This is simply due to the biological processing. If we let more people in, the water quality will no longer be good.

So if you want to come on a really sunny day, inform yourself in advance on the website, whether there is still space or not. The Bingen Mouse Tower. The UNESCO World Heritage Upper Middle Rhine Valley begins here. 40 castles have been preserved between Bingen and Koblenz. Many of them were rebuilt in the Romantic era. Like Rheinstein Castle, Sooneck Castle… and Stahleck Castle above Bacharach. And that’s where I want to go now. The magnificent castle is known for its youth hostel. I’m going to test these out today. At the end of the first day after about 50 kilometers. Hello. – Hello good day. Reisenbichler, my name. I wanted to check in and made an appointment with Mr. Kuschner. Then I’ll get Mr. Kuschner first, we’ll do the rest later. OK. – See you soon. Uh! – Travel guide. Hello. – Hello, greetings. Welcome to our Stahleck Castle. Great, it’s a special castle.

I’ll show you our beautiful view of the Upper Middle Rhine Valley. There’s definitely something crazy going on here. Typical youth hostel, one has to say. Exactly. And with us there is always life in the house. This is awesome, this ensemble with the old half-timbering and slate stone. This is unique, this location here. Here up on the mountain above Bacharach

With this view in front of us. An attraction for guests from all over the world. Lots of children probably, school classes… Lots of kids during the week, mostly school classes. But also families with children and cyclists who visit us, especially during the holiday season . How many beds are there? Are dorms likely.

We have dormitories in all parts of our Stahleck Castle building. In total we have 178 beds in the house and around 35,000 overnight stays per year. – Wow. How old is the castle? Stahleck Castle was first mentioned in documents around 1120. But it is believed that it was built about 20 years earlier.

So over 900 years old. – Exactly. At 10 p.m. quiet is the order of the day. Breakfast is served from seven o’clock. My bike and I are recharged – we can continue. Heinrich Heine, Clemens Brentano and Victor Hugo. For these three poets, Bacharach was the capital of Rhine Romanticism. Certainly also because of the ruins of the Werner Chapel in the middle of the city. The tourists are probably all looking for romance here on the Rhine. Well, one thing I can say is that it is idyllic here. Just seven kilometers away is another touristy place – Oberwesel. On the way there is the former Pfalzgrafenstein customs station in the middle of the Rhine. Oberwesel has a special feature. The town can be completely circumnavigated on the city wall. Stop, stop, customs. (Laughter) That’s 10 euros. – No no no. For ice cream. – In Denmark. In Denmark, okay. We from Denmark – tourists. – Ah okay. What do you like here in the valley? Why are you here?

Nature and… – The wines. The wines, yes. – And nature. We’re going to… Strasbourg tomorrow and then Alsace and then… Cochem. – Small European tour. European tour to the Rhine and Moselle. – Rhine and Moselle. I come from 20 kilometers away. I’m excited about here too. This is my first time up here.

Oh. You live 20 kilometers away and are still here for the first time. Yes. In Oberwesel several times, but for the first time here on the Wall. I’m surprised, really nice view. It’s a beautiful area. – It’s great, right? Then you are basically at home in the Middle Rhine Valley. – Yes.

This romance in the Middle Rhine Valley tells you something. – Clear. What is so romantic for you in the Middle Rhine Valley? (sighs:) Well, the wine. Definitely the wine. I love the wine. I also love the vineyards. Oberwesel has beautiful vineyards. We live here, where other people go on vacation. And then on the way, right next to the river, is Father Rhine. (on:) It’s nice here. Here you can find tapas to satisfy your hunger and tickets for a boat trip. The tenants are actually photographers. So, the little refreshment comes. The regional tapas, such as dip cakes in a glass, are homemade.

This is a boat landing stage, you can buy tickets. Exactly. How did you come up with the idea of ​​setting up another tapas stand here? We were asked by people from Oberwesel whether we would like to keep the building in Oberwesel. And so it just made sense that we combine it.

I have my office, we are photographers, I have my office in the little house, the sales office. Of course it was an opportunity to use this beautiful area for gastronomic purposes. I was happy when I drove up. I wanted a little snack like this. It worked, right? Blockbusters! – Yes.

Try it and see how you like it. – Mmm. Yummy. Strengthened, things are looking up again. It was quite strenuous going up to Stahleck Castle. But here too. Good thing I have an e-bike. The effort is worth it. An amazing view of Oberwesel. (on:) The Turner look. (off:) William Turner’s paintings have been famous and very popular since the Romantic period.

(on:) That must be the tower. That’s there. The British painter traveled to the Rhine several times from 1817 onwards. And this place is really worth a visit, a former film set. Enjoy your meal. – Thank you very much. The Günderodehaus is a relic from Edgar Reitz’s local films. (sings:) ♪ I don’t know what does it mean ♪ that I’m so sad. ♪ A fairy tale from ancient times, ♪ I can’t get that out of my mind.

This was absolutely the largest fortress and castle complex on the Middle Rhine. Bigger than the Ehrenbreitstein… We have to go here. Bigger than the Ehrenbreitstein is today. Rheinfels Castle. I ended up there after 16 kilometers today. It is located above St. Goar and is definitely worth a detour. The mayor of St. Goar is my guide. You can also explore the huge area on your own. Falko Hönisch is a big fan of Rhine romanticism.

His greatest wish: a journey back in time to this era. In the Romantic era this was a very special region. You have to imagine that Johannes Brahms went on a hike here at the age of 20 from Mainz to Düsseldorf. He also described exactly where he was. Took the ferry in Assmannshausen,

Stayed overnight in the Werner Chapel in Bacharach, stayed overnight in St. Goarshausen… Back then there was neither a real paved road nor a train. And of course no real motorized shipping traffic either. That must have been a certain paradise. Wow! What kind of gear is that? Looks like an escape tunnel. Yes. These are the famous mine passages that were used to defend the castle or of course to store… cold food, beer or something like that. No, actually from explosives. If they had stored explosives in the castle,

The castle would definitely have been affected. Really a fascinating castle complex. Maybe that’s why it’s so exciting because it’s a ruin. This has such charm because it is broken but preserved well enough. – Absolutely. There would also be good acoustics here. Obviously. – Yes. Not the long reverb, but a pretty good one. We’ll get to the long reverb in a moment. Yes? Where is the long reverb? In the large cellar at Rheinfels Castle. So go back down. – Here we go. Falko Hönisch’s main job is an opera singer. I would love to hear him sing. Ouuuh! What acoustics! Yes, this is the largest self-supporting vaulted cellar in Europe. Wow. As you can see, it is also shaped like a wine barrel. There used to be a wine barrel here that was just a little smaller than the famous large barrel at Heidelberg Castle. – Ah yes.

This barrel actually fed the local people too. With wine. – But awesome acoustics. Well, yes. – (sings:) Whoaaaah. If we had a minstrel there now… Unfortunately, he’s already off duty. – Yes, unfortunately already too late. The basement is probably rather unsuitable for singing. A little resonance is just good. Behind St. Goar the cycle path runs alongside the main road and railway. So not quite as nice. I accelerate for the next 25 kilometers. After all, there is a castle every few kilometers. The completely preserved Marksburg is particularly impressive. It looks like a painting and I think everyone finds it beautiful. Now I’m almost before Koblenz. Almost done. Still through a sparse riparian forest… But stop again for a moment. I definitely need to take a closer look at this. I discovered something really great. I find it incredibly romantic. This is what it looks like. Dining in the best location on the Rhine. What is happening here today? Today we’re having a crime dinner with some friends. Crime dinner? – Yes. We thought about surprising the other six too. They don’t know anything about it either. They don’t know it’s turned out like this.

That looks great. When does it start? – In a good quarter of an hour. Then they find out the location. They’re already sitting on hot coals. Did you think of all this yourself? Not the story, but the surroundings. Good luck to you. I hope everyone is excited. – Us too. Ciao. – Ciao. Reached Koblenz, completed my 50 kilometers today. There is my destination, the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. A quick trip to the old town. Then my ferry will arrive. I change the Rhine side again. The Ehrenbreitstein is located on the “Schäl Sick”. There’s an elevator up there. I won’t miss this, despite the e-bike. 94 meters in altitude in three minutes. And you arrive directly at the youth hostel.

Second overnight stay. And another magnificent view, this time of the Deutsches Eck. Good day. – Hi, Reisenbichler. I wanted to check in. – Reisenbichler, yes. Checking in is the same everywhere. Do you have to explain this to every guest? – Yes. How many times do you do this a day? – Up to 37 times. Yes? How many rooms do you have? – 37. What kind of beds are they overall? – 158.

Ah, okay. Is it full right now, fully booked? Luckily it’s always fully booked here. I can understand. – Almost always full with the view. Magnificent view of Koblenz. Thank you, see you later. Ciao. A bit fresh now. And it also rained briefly. I’ll take a look at the state museum. An exhibition about gestures. (Rhythmic sounds) Oh! We’re not allowed to show it on TV. Perfetto. Experiential exhibitions are just the thing for me. Culture and fun. Who is that? Is that a fan? And then the weather cooperates again. The fortress as such is basically a kind of experiential exhibition. Great terrain. And I’m lucky. There are concerts here on Saturdays. Today the band is playing the Johnny Cash Experience. A nice end to Saturday evening. The next morning I really want to ride the cable car again. The bike comes with you. It’s really nice, this Koblenz. The cable car ends at the Deutsches Eck with the equestrian statue of the German Emperor Wilhelm I from 1897. Mine ends here at the Deutsches Eck in Koblenz Bicycle tour after 100 kilometers along the Rhine. For me it’s the most beautiful part of the entire Rhine because the landscape is so spectacular. At the beginning there are the vines on the slopes, then the rugged rocks that almost plunge into the Rhine,

And every few kilometers there is a mighty, proud castle. Then the people are warm and open-minded. I really enjoyed it here and took away a lot of impressions. Go on a discovery tour through the beautiful Rhine Valley yourself! SWR 2023