Bulgarien mit dem Camper-Truck | Biwak | ARD Reisen

Die nächste Folge: Unterwegs nach Griechenland – Jetzt in der ARD Mediathek: https://1.ard.de/reisen-biwak-camper-griechenland-1?yt=d

Im Camper-Truck durch Bulgarien – Julia und Mark sind seit vier Jahren auf Weltreise. Nachdem sie ihre Wohnung gekündigt haben, leben die beiden ihren Traum von Freiheit auf vier Rädern. Das BIWAK-Team trifft die beiden Aussteiger und ihren Camper im wilden Osten auf dem Balkan. Gemeinsam erkunden sie hier die steile Felsnadel von Belogradtschik, das weltberühmte Rila-Kloster und klettern auf den höchsten Gipfel im Pirin-Gebirge. Zwischendurch berichten Julia und Mark auch von ihren anderen Abenteuern zwischen Skandinavien und Kaukasus.

00:00 Intro
01:15 Begrüßung
01:35 Best-Of-Bulgarien und Reiseroute nach Belogradtschik
02:12 Das „rollende Basislager“ – Ankunft in Bulgarien
04:10 Gelebte Träume auf vier Rädern – zwischen Nordkap und Balkan
06:15 Kletterabenteuer in Nord-Bulgarien
12:34 Erinnerungen an den Kaukasus
13:59 Unfreiwillige Pause: Zahnarztbesuch in der bulgarischen Provinz
15:53 On the road – mit der rollenden Einraumwohnung
17:05 Weltkulturerbe: Das berühmte Rila-Kloster
20:40 Ein Fall für Bastler und Schrauber: Der 4×4-Reise-Truck
24:53 Alles an Bord – Die Ausrüstung im Expeditions-Mobil
26:44 Bulgariens faszinierende Unterwelt: Die Höhle mit den „Augen Gottes“
31:47 Kochkurs auf Reisen: Pfannenpizza aus der Camper-Küche
33:13 Zum höchsten Gipfel im wildromantischen Pirin-Gebirge
38:57 Outro

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#bulgarien #biwak #ardreisen #camping #hiking #balkan

“Bulgarien mit dem Camper-Truck für Aussteiger” ist ein Film von Thorsten Kutschke und gehört zu einer 5-teiligen Biwak-Reportage-Reihe über den Balkan nach Griechenland. Dieser Film wurde 2023 im Auftrag des MDR produziert. Alle Aussagen und Fakten entsprechen dem damaligen Stand und wurden seitdem nicht aktualisiert. Das Biwak-Team: Götz Walter, Marko Seidel, Thomas Türpe, Felix Bähr, Theis Meckbach, Jörg Bobe, Tino Küttner, Alexander Albrecht, Christoph Simon, Produktion Simone Köhler, Redaktion: Andreas Menschel.

[Music] For four years this camping truck has been the rolling primary residence of Julia and Mark from Thuringia. It’s a kind of world trip that we started in 2020. We no longer have an apartment in Germany, so that’s our apartment at home. They don’t know it on theirs 12 square meters

Of living space, we always have our home with us, it really has become like a home for us, a rolling base camp on the way between the Caucasus, the North Cape and the Balkans

. I wanted to be able to take time for places for people, for culture, mulberries, medical stomak, yes, that had become more important to me than We live here, it ‘s a base camp, we’re very active, so we sometimes spend more kilometers in the kayaks

On foot or on the bikes per month than we do in this car and that’s our world, a world in which the mountains The Wild East is particularly tempting, woah look at the light, which is why we are meeting in Bulgaria for four weeks through the wild Balkans with

Great people who are really living out their dreams in life, with breathtakingly beautiful landscapes with very special climbing rocks and with rugged high mountain peaks – that promises a real adventure that we are going to You and I would like to invite you and take us with you.

Bulgaria has been enticing us for a long time. We want to take a look at the world-famous Rila Monastery. We want to find the eyes of God in the Bulgarian karst. We want to find the eyes of God in the Bulgarian Karst To explore the

Pirin Mountains [music] we have arranged to meet the Thuringian globetrotters and their rolling apartment in the northeasternmost tip of Bulgaria in front of the gates of the small town [music] bogradschik narrow but it shouldn’t be far to Z place The base camp is 7 tons heavy D Julia looking through the forest here

Looking for a nice parking space in the middle of the vonogrik just straight back straight back you see me in the mirror yes good yes continue further continue good further continue stop perfect yes let some air in nice first will be the comfortable one Travel terrace [music]

Ventilated and then shoes off in the house a first look into the truck, which was made and converted by hand, with a refrigerator with a kitchen, an oven, a folding bed, skylights and everything you need for years of being on the road as well as [music]

On which tour are we catching you right now It’s a kind of world trip that took us across Scandinavia, across Europe, through the Balkans and on to Turkey, Eastern Turkey to Georgia [Music] Armenia. It’s a long-cherished dream that they’ve been living out

With joy for four years now During the corona pandemic, they didn’t just sit and twiddle their thumbs in Scandinavia in 2020, they used the time to hike through the Norwegian mountains as a couple and enjoy the magic of the north with all their senses and without haste,

Without time pressure and without an appointment calendar later at the feet of the mighty uspar peak in the Georgian Caucasus and now with us in [music] Bulgaria did you win the lottery or make a large inheritance how do you finance something like that? Yes, we didn’t win the lottery,

We don’t have rich parents either, we really have that Saved, you also have to say that we no longer have an apartment in Germany, so this is our apartment and everything has been sold and so this is now really your rolling home.

Yes, can you tell me how big your monthly budget is when you’re on the road like this How do you say it actually varies because it depends on what we do, for example if we

Just climb for a month and then it’s almost just standing there then we even have around 3 to 500 €. as a couple, so for both of us um because we only have groceries, we have to say we don’t go out to eat big or anything like that, we live frugally and otherwise

We have around 1000 if we travel a lot now for both of us, so 500 € per person with this narrow-gauge budget we now want to make it through Bulgaria together for four weeks. We start our adventure at this impressive fortress that stretches across

The little town of Bellogradschig and above a rocky city made of strangely fragile conglomerate rock, but it’s all pretty crumbly here, that’s what I mean again. Yes, look at the [applause], look at how it wobbles an egg laid where it’s actually best not to do it at all Julia and Mark want to

Climb, that’s brave, she’s a trained fitness trainer by profession and he’s given up a well-paid job in foreign trade at the Zeis Group in Jena to travel the world with his loved one and climb. Now it’s time to get started Bacon

Or on the pebbles Which of you two usually gets up before Ladies first Ladies first Yes, yes, but I also enjoy it, I like it especially when the manine tour goes onsite, so to speak, and doesn’t yet know what’s coming and no lizards are hanging yet and for now see for yourself

How the tour is going and also from a moral point of view I think a little bit jeniv the stronger part of the two of us, yes I think we have to look a little bit

Because of salt, yes first look into the gap to see if it’s going to break down somehow or broken piles are what rocks are called in climbing jargon, where you don’t really know whether the handles and

Steps offer a secure hold and here on the dagger 40 m high there is a steep tooth in the middle of the forests of northern Bulgaria. I have to do a bit of cleaning up here because we are in this broken place We didn’t want to hang a cameraman on the wall,

So we decided to do aerial observation right up into the wall and at the summit, Julia is making really good progress, so yes, it’s okay, so it’s not ideal, but it’s okay, you BST are not nervous here at a height of 35 m The belay is sport climbing style

So this scale here oo oo it sounds very high where I’m at it so if you leave it on please if you leave it on too okay watch out nice bellrik style do you hear that I hope it stays on for a bit longer Julia sneaks literally up to the top

Yes I see the hook now it’s safe clip in the carabiner and can take a deep breath okay distance cool thing awesome ha nice Mark of course wants to go up there too so as I said be careful here with this scale there somehow um

I have I get the impression that you’ve already said that about the one down there and the one under there too, it sounds like it sounds, but I’m just being very careful, okay, remember, touch it carefully, yes, that’s also here. Look, I have it in that one Hand should I

Do with the [music]ön [music] Wow, look at the light, at the top you will find a summit book like you know from Saxon Switzerland and when you look inside you realize that it was actually climbers from Saxony who were the first sat up here on the dagger in the Bulgarian

[music] bellogrschik go home let’s drink beer [music] yes now there are the big guns big tour big guns yes the summit what can I say about that so the last light and then summit book and then look you 34 ascents that Julia pulled out on it big

[Music] Julia and Mark love the mountains, active movement, often with ambitious goals, such as when climbing the summit of the kbeck, an impressive 5user in the Caucasus. If you really want to experience and enjoy such experiences, you don’t have to

It’s just courage that takes time, not just on but also after the mountain. I think that’s incredibly important. When we’ve traveled intensively, we ‘ve experienced places, cultures, people, then there’s always a phase where we let it settle, and that’s

One of those when traveling long-term This one of these big gifts that you can have set means you stop somewhere and process it first or yes the memory is full and you could drive to the next destination. We’ve already done that but we realized

We can’t record it anymore I can’t have been in Georgia in the Greater Caucasus and have this enormous density of impressions inside of me and then I go to the sea somewhere and unpack the boat and want to go paddling somewhere and I want to look at it, that’s not possible

Can do that physically but that’s a tick and thank God we’ve ticked that off. Sometimes there are unplanned things to do. So here in Bellogradschik and at the old minaret time seems to have somehow stood still. 40 years of socialist planning and mismanagement can be done Don’t cover up everywhere as quickly

As on the colorfully painted power boxes in the small town . What wasn’t planned is the wobbly knees that Mark is out and about with today, the root of a molar is rebelling and anyone who is already very

Reluctant to go to the dentist at home in Germany has that When traveling, of course, the pants are full [music] the fear was unfounded, as it turns out when I walked through the waiting room towards the treatment room for the first time, it didn’t feel good at all, you have a toothache, you

Go in there and you see the interior What may seem familiar to you from your childhood was then taken into consideration that perhaps the treatment could be a bit backwards, but in this case that wasn’t the case at all. Five sessions for the root canal treatment cost

A total of €50 and were used as a consolation or pain relief in Bulgaria there’s half a pound of home on top of it, real Thuringians [music] butter [applause] [music] the red trip continues across the wild Balkans the R DAV crisscrosses

Bulgaria time to say a few words about the rolling one-room apartment built in 1996 Julia and Mark found their motorhome advertised on the Internet by a craftsman who built and converted the truck. Unfortunately, his wife didn’t want to go on that kind of vacation. For the two Thuringians it was not

Only a stroke of luck but also a bargain with which they are now rolling south It goes past the capital Sofia to the world-famous Rila Monastery [music] shortly after sunrise we quietly enter the stone sanctuary of the Bulgarian Orthodoxy and when we stand here like this,

It’s not an adventure, it’s not an adrenaline rush, it’s just awe [Music] Amazement Even if only eight monks live here today and piously celebrate their faith, the RIL monastery is one of the most important, if not the most important, sacred building in the entire

Balkans. Founded in the 10th century, the complex has been a world cultural heritage site since 1983 UNESCO because of its eventful history as well as because of the impressive architecture with the mighty domes and the unique icons and frescoes that decorate

The cloisters here. If you want to understand the full dimension of this work of art, it is best to look at it from above. We have exceptionally and thankfully received special permission and are allowed to fly through the complex with the drone. The rooms of the monastery

Now house museums and libraries and are used as guest rooms for pilgrims from all over the world. Luckily they are still sleeping and the tourist buses haven’t arrived yet [music] How are you here? It’s a very, very nice atmosphere because we

Were here very early without people and you can concentrate on the place, you can notice details if you take your time, if you don’t have to be here with a busload of tourists and yes, they Details simply catch the eye and then more in the head and you

Can also pause and enjoy. The first bus tour is coming now, well then we want to make sure that we can get a careful look at the heart of it before the really big rush the complex in the monastery church Zeta bogododiza where the Rilamünche are

Reverently celebrating their morning prayer under the five mighty domes, as has been a tradition for a thousand years, here in this quiet and remote part of the Rilageberg in the chapel in the holiest place of the RIL monastery we are not allowed to take pictures there but sometimes it’s a good thing I think if not everything is allowed and some things just stay where they belong but I can only recommend it if

You or you are here in Bulgaria and here you have this gem, this world cultural heritage, this wonderful monastery that you have to see after visiting the monastery, everyday cleaning and mending lesson again. Mark repairs the protective tarpaulin for the terrace. This is also part

Of long-term travel. Something is always there work, it’s never finished, every homeowner and probably everyone who lives in the apartment knows that, so you won’t finish, there are always ideas, the problem is time and priorities, so I could

Stand somewhere in the garage and be here for months make even the smallest details and build something different, build something lighter, build something nicer, that’s always possible and make something more comfortable and if you look at it now and say okay, if somehow the next trip is over, there’s

Something that you’re saying now that we could actually optimize I’m not as much of an optimizer as Mark, so for me it’s perfect, but of course Mark still has 100 things that he’d like to improve. Sometimes you have to slow him down a bit, yes,

Where I say, do we need that now or must that but as I said, for me it’s perfect, you just have to manage the balancing act so that you don’t spend your main time building a mobile and never travel with it or that it’s just inconvenient, so

Of course that can’t be the case, that’s something we have ourselves learned we were in Scandinavia we were also in Scandinavia in winter and it gets cold there the cold we had it under control we have an oven we have underfloor heating but we did

N’t have our cold bridges and the condensation under control and so we actually had to do everything tear it out again and rebuild it because condensation collects in the places where it’s really difficult to reach and then it’s not worth fiddling with; you had to tear everything out and

Rebuild it again, even if the 50-year-old himself is an enthusiastic screwdriver and hobbyist. There are always times Again, situations in which he looks for where and why the four-wheel drive might be rattling, but in case of doubt

He prefers to consult an expert. There are big differences between the western world and the world where people are used to having to improvise and if so If you roll into such workshops and have a problem, you always get help and you get the help promptly. You don’t get an

Appointment for two weeks, but you get the help when you need it. That’s how it works here in the southern Balkans with Dimitris Workshop master who is known all over the country as a proven expert for the older truck vintages. We are here because

One of the oil seals on the axles is very slightly moist with oil and always loses a few drops, which worries me because I’ve had that on the other side before and when it did Once it starts it gets worse and then the drops

On the tires have actually run out and you have half a liter of oil for the wheel bearings in the axles and at some point half a liter of oil has also leaked out and then they run dry and when they run dry they go broken then the axles overheat and then

The whole axle is gone, yes since it won’t come, says Dimit with an expert look, the communication works with hands and feet and when Dimitr greased the grease nipples on the axle there was a lubricant from the axle as a thank you Thuringia’s homeland: the workshop master doesn’t want any money for his

Help, so not only the beer, of course, we also do what we pay for back into the mountains , whether with the kayak with all kinds of ski models with ice axes, crampons and climbing ropes with two wheels of course and a storm-tested tent Both adventurers are really equipped for all adventures,

It’s nice that a dream couple has found each other, one that doesn’t just dream their dreams but lives them consistently. I travel around half my life or almost all of it and the vehicles with which I do it don’t really matter So I went on long bike rides

Around the Grand Canyon through America with panniers, I went hiking, I went with that Backpacking on the go Asia I looked at a lot of things I was in the Cordera Blanca for several months mountaineering in Peru yes now you have spent more time in the Balkans than

Originally planned you even spent the winter what do you like about this area here I think it is also very much about the people they are just so relaxed not as busy or over-regulated as in Germany they are very very warm very hospitable

That makes a lot of difference but also the landscapes are very beautiful and you really have peace and quiet it is not as crowded as maybe in Germany or Austria and there are actually things to discover here oha that are not in every first travel guide,

Like this natural wonder in the Bulgarian karst not far from the small town of Karlukovo, the Prchotner cave with its huge holes in the roof, which the locals refer to and revere as the eyes God and anyone who wants to get a little closer to the good Lord

Just needs to have the right equipment with them, like Deo, a 20-year-old student from Sopia who is hanging up there in one of the numerous climbing tours through the cave okay [music] a tenth level of difficulty incredibly strenuous a climb that

Is only reserved for the very best and one of them is deodorant here in Bulgaria like a fly he sticks up there in the ceiling and makes it to the last peg on this tour . Yes, that was a great movie not only for climbing lovers like Julia Mark and for us thank

You of course we now want to know what it felt like up there, well it was a bit damp and not that easy at all. I noticed that no one had been in that way for a long time but I still felt good That kind of thing is just part of the

Game, how often he trains to be able to climb something like that, I want to know at least four or five times a week, it’s not always out in nature next to his studies, it’s often just enough

For the climbing gym, but yes, climbing four or five times per week then is a good week because a week without climbing is not a good week for Julia. She also climbs this path as an experiment, knowing that smooth teeth on the Uia Asala

Is actually not her collar size [Music] but that’s just the way it is The nice thing about this sport, at least on well-secured tours, is that you can just try out how far or how high you can go. I thought, I thought, R way,

Cool, yes, step on the gas, yes, come on, come on, it’s going very nice and the light is just getting really nice that through the eyes of God on the cave ceiling in the big Durm, climbing at the absolute limit of performance is that and she loves it no, I jump in, yes,

Okay, does anyone else want to flutter, not dear Julia, but like to talk a little and Julia, you have yourself to the good Lord Felt a little closer, yes, in any case, the last flight was quite far, but it felt good. Show your hands, how are

You, they’re shaking a little, what do you think of the spot overall, apart from the sizes and thirds? just great so the tour is also so beautiful, beautiful movements and is already doable but now for me it was quite persistent just getting out again at the top

But really really beautiful and the spot is of course so impressive and unbelievable you look happy it’s not for you a lost day if you can’t manage a rod, definitely not no, that’s just the joy of the movement of climbing is so [music] nice

If you need a refreshment after such a feat of climbing, then luckily there isn’t anything on board in the rolling house only a full refrigerator but also a well- equipped [music] kitchen. On their trip, which has now lasted more than three years, Julia and Mark have

Only seen a good dozen of their restaurants, they say they are much too expensive and they much prefer baking their bread or pizza in the travel truck [Music] itself pi time pizza time pan pizza for everyone Julia and Mark are being served today for the entire [music] bakteam [music]

So you’re not just living on Chinese packet soups on your trip it looks like that nothing against Chinese packet soups in the high mountains where we want to go next in a high mountain on our journey across Bulgaria from the Pochotner cave back past

The capital Sofia into the southwesternmost tip of the country into Piringeb smaller than the neighboring ridge network of the Rilabge but but much wilder shortly after sunrise we are already on our feet we want to go up to the wichren to the highest peak of the pirenen [music]

Of course the last time I saw mountain meadows was in the westhatra so we enjoy the green once more up there it looks a little nacker promises to be a scorching hot day and at some point we meet the first

Thirsty hiker. We don’t know where he comes from or what his name is, but of course we’re still happy to share our water supplies. At 2300 m, we’re now halfway up the climb, at least in terms of altitude As far as things go, it’s not just getting steeper here, it’s also becoming increasingly

Rocky, it looks like that was the easier half that we already had in our calves or definitely the more beautiful of the landscape, meadows, flowers, just great light, that’s the morning mood and let’s look Let’s see how it goes up there towards the Grad and then further on the gibbel. We deliberately didn’t

Decide on the usual route over the southern flank of the wicher. We’re afraid that there will be far too many people there, this variant here under the huge north face with its snow fields it is a lot steeper but perhaps that is why it is quieter

And more tranquil. At 2700 m we reach a large saddle that slopes steeply towards the west. We are just about free from heights Met one today then perhaps you shouldn’t say too loudly, let’s just enjoy it, friends, what’s the thought half an hour or three up to half an hour if things

Are going well for him it’s definitely going well our thirsty companion is still with us Game as we tackle the last stage up to the third highest peak in the entire Balkans. The huge summit pyramid requires a lot of patience and full concentration. We don’t need the installed along the ascent route

To hold on to today, but they are all useful Just imagine being surprised by a storm in this area and by bad [music] [music] visibility [music] at the top we are no longer alone but still happy, nice, wedged, wedged, thank you,

Okay, okay and again I was so lucky with the weather or and a fantastic view was definitely worth it and why because we deserved it, you ca n’t have it better or J case I thought it was a really nice route even if it was

A bit rough at the end You now know Bulgaria’s highest, the one in Musala, we left it out because we thought there wasn’t as much going on in Perin now, so in comparison, where does it fit in with you? I think it’s a nicer climb up Musala

Made in different seasons, were there a little later in the fall, it was also very beautiful, it was very lonely, there was already snow on top, but I don’t think the climb here can be topped. I also have to say I think it was nicer here, it was so varied,

Nice and green at the bottom Now there’s a bit of crackling up here and then the view here is incredibly beautiful. We already have the final answer, Julia, why we climb such mountains or so definitely look around, it’s just worth it [applause]

[music] only we have I think we deserve this fantastic panoramic view over the entire Pirin Mountains, well and that’s when we say goodbye, say goodbye for today and say goodbye to Bulgaria, this wonderful country that we

Would like to say thank you for everything we were able to experience in two and a half weeks without a single drop Rain, fantastic weather, fantastic mountain experiences and very, very nice [Applause] Encounters If you would like to know how Julia Mark and the bwak team’s journey continues in the southern Balkans in Greece and on the climb to Holy Olympus then just take a look at biwk in the ARD media library