Is The Newly Built Engine Any Good? – BMW E92 M3 – Project Frankfurt: PT8

Behold the roar of the mighty S65 V8 engine! Time to get this 2011 BMW E92 M3 with a formerly blown engine back on the road. In this episode, we refurbish and upgrade the brakes, replace the front suspension, take vapor blasting to a new level, install winter wheels and start running in the engine.

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Aluminum valve covers, NRW Design – https://www.nrw-design.com/products/s65-aluminum-valve-cover-set
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Coming up unlocking a new level of perfection the I want more money light wait a minute we have a service engine sun light already I clean a mirror and yes yes it Is good and happy New Year and welcome to the new episode of project Frankfurt the e92 M3 over the last two episodes we fully rebuilt the S65 V8 engine reinstalled it and started it for the very first time and in this episode it’s time to break in the engine to run it in

But before we can go for that first drive we need to overhaul the brakes do the suspension button up some few loose ends and then hit the road we are kicking off with the front brakes I’m going to cut the brake hose cuz we are replacing and upgrading them here we go is

Scw excellent unbolt the caliper spread out the pads caliper bracket bolts the rusty rotor despite being entirely Rusty it has a big lip so it needs to be replaced going to remove the brake Shield as well so we can clean it we need to remove this Rusty bracket as

Well so we can paint it so let’s unbolt the brake line proper flare wrench all right now we need to take apart the rear brakes as well this one is trash as well has a massive lip parking brake shoes they’re still good plenty of meat left just comparing

Them with the pictures of brand new ones and it looks about the same so that’s good next up we’re going to remove the wheel bearing this one isn’t terrible but it’s not perfect either so going to refresh it while in there and I also want to Vapor blast the steering knuckle

First remove the wheel speed sensor oh that was loose okay with that one I’m not going to bother now I’m just going to zip it out on the table going to remove the pinch Bolt strs and shocks they have over 145,000 miles so you know that these are blown

There’s no scenario in which they are good unfortunately we can’t replace them now because I want to install Bilstein B6 temptronic shocks same ones that have on Project Raleigh they are not in stock at the moment I was told they’re going to be available again beginning of New

Year January which is right now so if they arrive a bit later we’re going to do them in the next episode for now we got to stick with the B shocks here’s the nulear from the other side there’s the wheel bearing all right we all know what

Follows next this is my Vixen surface treatments aquablast 1215 Vapor blasting cabinet aka the creator of better than brand new parts and I just switched media in it I was using glass beads glass media which was incredibly dirty cuz I haven’t changed it once since the

Day I started using this machine and now we have ceramic beads which are giving a different finish so let me show you the difference I thought it might be a bit tricky to show this on the camera but it really isn’t the difference is clearly obvious this is the finish with ceramic

Media and this is with the glass media glass gives a bit dollar finish it almost looks like it’s dirtier but it’s not it’s just the way it hits the surface and treats the surface ceramic packs a bit more punch so the Finish it’s it’s even cleaner it’s it’s pure

Aluminium it’s silver it’s a bit on the shiny side which I don’t really like but that’s totally fine cuz after I’m done blasting all of the parts special aluminium ones I treat them with xcp rust blocker to protect this beautiful finish and that’s what’s going to give

It a nice matte finish this tip came from a very nice subscriber from Canada he’s been using this machine professionally for years and he’s running ceramic media in his machine and the Finish really is stunning the downside to ceramic media is the price it’s very expensive if memory serves me

Right I paid between 400 and 500 for 25 kg of this media while glass media for the same amount it’s like 30 to 50 but on the plus side ceramic media lasts a lot longer and the Finish is spectacular I really like This here we go look at That wow just wow we already took a spectacular finish to hold different level anyway this is the xcp rust blocker and we’re going to use this and treat the parts going to use a brush and spread it around it’s important to do this while aluminium won’t rust it will oxidize

Especially when exposed to German Winters here’s the comparison untreated versus treated with xcp the difference is very subtle this is now a touch on the satin side which actually works really well cuz it makes it look a bit more natural and it’s protected which is the most important thing now now we

Going to refurbish the calipers and the brackets so I’m going to prep them for blasting all right I’m going to go quickly blast them and remove the Paint finished blasting all of the parts it took forever cuz this paint was really thick I couldn’t use my vapon blasting cabinet because it’s not abrasive or strong enough to remove paint it can remove it but it’s just miserably slow so I had to use my crappy cheap sand blasting cabinet that has

Aluminium oxide blasting media in it and this removes paint much easier because it’s far too abrasive and it also leaves a nice scruffy surface for the paint to adhere but that thing is just miserable the dust goes everywhere it gets jammed all the time not something I want to do

Again again anyway now I’m going to remove all of the Pistons and then we can degase them and paint them oh when was the last time someone BL the brakes on this thing ah nice and remove the seal nasty inside okay the front Pistons are in perfect

Shape the rear Pistons are good on the inside but pretty ugly on the outside think we’re going to replace those and now we need to degrease all of the parts so first I’m going to use brake cleaner and compress there and clean them thoroughly and then we’re

Going to dump them into this Nitro Nitro which is like a Degreaser cleaner thing and then I think after that another round of brake cleaner and that should do do it dump the caliper in okay now I’m going to do a final round of brake cleaner and compressor and then

We can mask the parts got heat resistant tape here you’ll understand why in a minute I’m masking off the flat surfaces like where the bracket bolt stood a steering knuckle and caliper to the bracket that needs to be paint free nice and easy everything has been massed off and

Ready for paint we’re going with fully attack two component Caliper Paint and we’re going with silver from the factory as you saw these brakes were black but to go through all this effort and trouble just to paint them the same color as brake dust just seems like a

Pointless exercise so we’re going with silver this will make them Stand Out pop out a bit more and in my opinion it’s going to look nicer everything is steel apart from the front calipers they’re aluminium so for the steel parts first we’re going to use epoxy brunox which is

A rust converter and primer in one can so we’re going to Spritz that on all of these parts should protect them and make this finish last longer and then we’re going to paint them this is an oven and no we are not going to bake blueberry muffins unfortunately

It’s currently 2° outside it’s the middle of the winter so not an ideal environment to be doing some paint and painting parts so first I’m going to heat up all of the parts at around 800° C for about 5 to 10 minutes and then we

Can paint them and at the same time I’m also warming up the cans next to my heater okay around 10 minutes and let’s do around 80 I think that should do it okay going to take these straight to the paint booth welcome to the paint booth

These are nice and warm so we can apply brunox and the brunox can is nice and warm as well that’s very important so I’m going to Spritz one thin layer of brunox take it in front of the heater to dry and after about 30 minutes I’m going to apply a second layer

It’s going purple which means that the rust converter is doing its job it’s been about 40 45 minutes and it’s time for the second layer time to paint the can is warm and I’ve been shaking it like crazy for a while now now I can pierce the

Bottom and now I can continue shaking like a lunatic it’s officially 10 minutes past midnight on Sunday evening so technically it’s Monday morning just went below zero there’s wind as well and we’re about to paint the calipers and the brackets you might be thinking dedication nah just an obsessed lunatic

Whose wife is out of town we got to finish this now so we can assemble them tomorrow well technically later today I so professional second layer here Bruno is dry after about 2 hours or 20° but it was sitting directly in front of the heater all this time and it’s dry

When you can jab it with your fingernail and you can’t remove the Finish so this is dry good morning the sausages are still drying so in the meantime let’s do something else while the brakes are drying we can proceed with the suspension we have the complete front end everything is original except for

The wheel bearings that’s o e and I managed to find these control arms from TRW so all original part with the BMW logo scraped off the thrust arms I ordered them from TRW as well as ly water which is the same company owned by ZF and those are made in Malaysia the

Quality is poor so I sent them back and I purchased original parts very expensive but at the end of the day worth it then original tie rods sway bar links and OE Lim F boots made in Italy just spotted that this is not the original strut to the car production

Date is 09 and the car is 2011 any remove the wheel speed sensor and the brake pad wear sensor okay going to do a quick spot of cleaning with Geon allpurpose cleaner brand new screws got Gian preserve here that looks good for something that’s going to get instantly dirty as soon as

We leave the shop this bracket here that I also refurbished is very Rusty the beautiful steering nuclear the spindle the suspension carrier however you want to call it I spread the knck hole and it should slide in line up the notch like that the little bracket also ref finished a

Bolt in your one and in your nut so this needs to sit all the way in so use your chest in a manly manner to prop up the spindle and then do it up the inner tie rod and I made a Mark here where the

Outer tie rod needs to sit so we get the alignment as close as possible to how it was before 38 mil spanner wrench give it a couple of good Gooden twists and that’ll do it remember when we in previous episode found melee in a tie rod and I said that

Melee doesn’t make one for this car and that’s true W it’s different it’s not the same length and also the boot doesn’t sit in the right place which can potentially make problems when it comes to alignment the boot clamp to clamp she going to turn it upwards outer tie rod good and

Twist BR your nut must forget the bracket for the headlight Leveling Sensor as this is a ball joint we can torque it to speculation now and now a 90° angle okay that’s 90° going to replace this Rusty little link here here’s a new one and a new

Nut so all of these new studs and bolts typically rust quickly so I’m going to use rust blocker and just coat them a little bit protect them from rusting can also torque the ball joints the wheel bearing this Notch here needs to line up with this cutout and the

Spindle the bearing comes with new bolts and I also painted the inner part of the Hub cuz this always rusts immediately and it’s super annoying so I just gave it a coat of paint engine paint so it should be durable bolts have Loctite on them so if you’re using the old ones

Make sure you use Loctite brand new OE at fuel speed sensor the thrust arm as this is a rubber bushing we’re just going to do it fingertight and then final torque with the car down on the ground and suspension fully loaded it’s a lot of torque now I can

Plum in the wheel speed sensor brilliant the brake Shield brand new bolts I also refinished it cuz it was a bit Rusty beautiful now I’m going to go copy paste on the other side the sway bar we got to replace the bushings M interesting the bushing Clips in I’ve never seen that before

That’s plastic that is so weird has plastic tabs on the end and this well time for the magic act brand new bushings first we push in the top part well the bottom one into the bracket this goes in here make sure it’s seed correctly and then cck flip

In this part oh see you have to use your entire body and it still won’t do it gentle kicks well this one is successfully clipped in and that’s both of them clipped in pop the sway bar in brand new nuts just gently snug them up and then the final torque is

Done you guessed it with the suspension fully loaded the soy bar link back to the brakes these are now dry but not fully cured after about 7 Days probably even longer given the temperature outside they’re going to be fully cured and that means I need to be

Somewhat careful how I handle them hence a nice soft carbon fiber towel going to blow it out with compressed air the Pistons we are going to reuse the old ones cuz they’re in perfect condition and I believe this is Magnesium if I’m not mistaken it’s very

Light and all of the off tomarket ones they’re steel so I want to keep this cuz you can’t buy this brand new from the dealer and then the seal and the boot that’s OE at the pins as well and the bushings and then I have bleed screws here as well

Here’s the assembly grease from at pop in the seal make sure that’s seated correctly Deb boot make sure that’s fully seated as well little up the seal and now pop in the Piston it’s going in and now we need to secure and clip in the boot properly here you got to be

Careful not to damage it going to use a plastic wedge tool if you have a PVC pipe that’s the same size you can use that to push in the clip it does help if you can feel your fingers and it’s not minus5 now we can use a bit of

Compressed there just to see the Piston move see that still got to make sure that the boot is properly clipped in which it is so I just push it back in and that’s the Piston installed brand new original bleed screw I tried the aftermarket ones in the past and the

Material that they’re made of is not good and it just immediately starts to rust the bushings careful here one is shorter and the other one is longer same with the pins you can see that this is where the longer one goes and this is where the shorter one goes bit of

Silicon spray only the outside not inside there it is the pins p repair manual you shouldn’t use any grease on the guide pins a lot of people do BMW says not to use it because this end here is open so when you Loop it up it’s going to attract breake dust dirt and

All that stuff and wear out the pin or the pushing so I typically go without any grease and I never had any issues pop in the new one I do make sure sure that they slide freely excellent that’s one done for the rear calipers I couldn’t find OE parts

From at they’re not available so we’re going with Frank kit this is a Spanish company and brand new Pistons the old ones are pretty pitted as you can see and Rusty on the inside so I don’t really want to use them there’s the new one clean the Piston excellent fitment and and then

The guide pins are OE at the bleed screw that comes with this kit is pretty crappy this rusts almost instantly so I’m using the original one and there you have it that’s how you properly refurbish brake calipers it is a long and tedious process took about two days

Just to blast them and paint them and then you got to let them dry and assemble them but do it right do it once that’s my motto if you’re wondering why I didn’t go for upgraded brake calipers well you’re looking at it as the stock rotors are a

Known weak point I went for the upgrade from Gyra disc I reached out to them and they were kind enough to support the project and provide a set of these beautiful floating two-piece slaughtered discs something you typically find with big Brak kits yet gyro discs develop

These race track rotors to be a direct bolt-on replacement for stock ones and work with stock caliper they have 48 curve directional veins for improved cooling anti-rattle Hardware replaceable rotor Rings the central hat is made of aircraft spec aluminium and by running gyro discs we are not only saving weight

But also maintaining the factory brake bias and abs efficiency besides the performance GES this should be a perfect solution for me as I want to be able to run 18-in Wheels in Winter which is something you can do with big brake kits and still have upgraded brakes for when

Hitting the track or for heavy autobound braking for a brake p pads I got PFC z-rated pads from Beamer World which are upgraded Street pads as this will be primarily a street driven car and Stainless Steel Brake Lans in at type 200 brake fluid we’ll have paste only on

The lip not on the meting surface grab the left rotor these rotors really are beautiful ran screws Cal bracket everything is so shiny I almost don’t want to use it yet I want to the rotor has perfect clearance clearance Lube up the sliding surfaces on the pad the bracket and the caliper the

Caliper and gaps lastly The Vicious spring there it is pretty much impossible to install the clip without doing a bit of scratch work so I’m going to touch up what I scratched that looks fantastic clean up the Hub well that’s better isn’t it I’m going to test the handbrake okay

Turns easily now let’s do two clicks another but we need to adjust the parking brake so this way spreads the shoes that’s too much we have a slight drag and now when I lower the handbrake it should spin smoothly which it is the Bracket 16 new brake pad wear sensor clip it in oh man minus 4 in the shop I can’t feel my fingers I just walked in good the brake line Stainless Steel Brake Line Glen twist okay bracket here is refinished as well I can manage not to drop it for

Just finished installing the brake lines for the rear calipers and now I got to do these two sitrep the placement of the middle rubber brake Clines on this chassis is absolutely idiotic there is no space to get you Tools in there it’s very very tight somehow I managed to

Replace the first one the one that’s closer to us but the second one is a nogo because that nut is Rusty and it welded itself to the pipe so when I tried to turn it the entire hard line is twisting so this hard line needs to be

Replaced and in order to do that I need to drop the entire subframe and we’re not going to do that now because it doesn’t matter priority now is to break in the engine and in the future I am planning to overhaul the entire rear suspension the whole subframe the whole

Shebang so when that happens we’re going to replace that line as well annoying but what can you do all right time to bleed the brakes first got to suck out the old liquid this brake flood has really weird color it’s like fluorescent or something I don’t know hasn’t been changed in a

While fresh fluidity my least favorite activity ever bleeding the brakes 3 million bars of pressure right that’ll do I’m going to run around real quickly and just make sure we don’t have any leaks and then we can get to the bleeding part the transmission oil pump in the

Previous episode I used ISTA to activate the pump and it would say that it’s running but it’s actually not so now I’m going to apply directly 12 volts to it and see if that does anything and if instead we need to replace it the top pin is the positive one and the bottom

One is the negative one oh it’s running so maybe my IST is not good so the pump is good that’s good I guess cuz it’s not cheap so let me play with this a bit more and see what’s going on okay I’ve been troubleshooting the transmission oil pump and I tried impa

ISTA and tool 32 and all of them are saying that the pump is running but it’s not I traced all of the wires now the wiring is in order and we manually tested the pump that’s working as well so the only thing that makes sense is that my diagnostic tool is not good

Which wouldn’t make sense either because everything else works but I don’t know on this green connector this red wire that’s the positive one that goes down to the connector for the oil pump and on the far left there’s a black connector and this brown wire that’s the negative

One so when the ISTA is saying that the pump is running there is zero voltage here the computer is not activating the pump so what we’re going to do is manually jump the pump so 12 volts you can quite clearly hear it and I’m going to jump underneath of

The car top up the fluid I got to make sure that the transmission fluid level is correct and then once the car is nice and warm I’m going to put it on the leftt and see if the pump is running cuz it needs to achieve a certain

Temperature for the pump to kick in okay so I manually ran the pump for about 1 minute which should be long enough to cycle the fluid through the transmission cooler lines through the cooler and now I remove the transmission plug and I’m going to start filling it until the

Fluid starts coming out and then I’m going to activate it one more time and that way we know that the fluid l level is correct oh yeah look at that more fluid is going in now the transmission is full now so let me turn on the pump one more

Time okay let it drip out and fit a new plug excellent the reinforcement plate and then 90° so from there until here beautifully executed the transmission cover and stupid cover remarkable the amount of screws holding this flimsy piece in place this piece is Rusty and ugly it needs to

Go here’s a new one brand new SCU time to button up everything in the engine bay and now this giant slab of plastic cabin air filtration new ones clip in the connector here R stripping winter windshield washer fluid all right that’ll do it hood shocks forgot to buy new ones hopefully these still

Work they work a little bit weak I’m going to order new ones wiper bles how do you operate this s swf orinal oh I can’t I’m not long enough okay the wheels it’s winter which means we need winter tires say hello to the winter wheel set for project Frankfurt original brand spanking new

Style 260m wheels Square setup which means same size all around and we have 24540 18 Michelin Pilot Sport nope pilot Alpine 5 winter tires I bought the wheels on eBay from a Bulgarian seller paid €1,300 shipped which is actually a really good price for brand new original wheels these have been discontinued from

The dealer so I got lucky and I found them from that guy I think they look spiffy they’re going to look fabulous on the car and I’m going to be happy with this for winter for summer we’re going to go with competition Wheels but not just any competition Wheels I’m going to

Show you that a bit later cuz they’re custom wheels before we can put these on we need to protect them for protection we are going to use ceramic coating for rims from Geon but first we need to prep the surface with Surface Prep and we have some premium carbon fiber towels so

Going to clean the rim thoroughly a these are going to be a nightmare to coat so many spokes H even brand new factory rims have imperfections from the factory but I already knew that I bought brand new rims for E60 and5 and they have imperfections on the inside I’m going to

Apply ceramic coating all around but I’m not going to wipe it off I want to have a nice thick layer of ceramic coating cuz on the inner barrel you get most of the brake dust and I want for that coating to last as long as possible these are going to be an absolute

Nightmare to clean so is a very good thing to ceramic coat them it’ll make cleaning much easier and lastly tire q+ from Geon now I’m going to buff it out that’s the process now I’m just going to repeat it with the rest of them we are going to run wheel spacers from

SEC otherwise it just looks really really ugly cuz the wheel is really sunken in so we’re going to go with 10 mil in the front and 15 in the back longer bolts that come with the spacers this already looks so good got to say I do like the design of these [Applause]

Rims man my M3 is coming along now we got to move it on the four poost lift so we can torque the bushings brakes feel good I think Hy deleted the cold start function this is my official first drive what a beautiful Car okay torky torque time cool and there’s a 10 mil nut here for the hydraulic line the thrust arm bushings 68 newm and then 90° angle going to make a mark on the bolt and then turn it 90° more that’ll do it 90° the engine undertray the stock one

Is notorious for breaking into million pieces and that’s what happened to this car I found it in the trunk completely destroyed it’s made of that flimsy fabricyellow one this is a microfiber undertray online you can find various flavors from aluminium metal and all sorts of different designs and

Whatnot this is the first one that I found that was available with quick shipping and it wasn’t terribly expensive around €300 I just test fitted it it fits actually quite nicely it’s very light so I like it okay cool fits pretty well we have a cutout here for the engine oil cooler

And we have cutouts here should one want to do a cooling aod duct for the brakes black kidney grills I actually don’t mind them I think it looks quite okay with this color combo but still we’re going to go with chrome ones cuz I think I’m going to like that

Better is that stuck I need to Loop up that you should swivel man swivel that’s it the hood is locked forever now we need rust Loser come on man sweet and sour chicken what is happening I can’t open the hood it’s been so long since the hood

Has been closed actually let’s get some proper lubrication stuff on there PTFE PR where are you how difficult it’ll be to remove the kidney grills did they just pop out the bloody Clips oh that’s a stubborn clip bro just this one wants to be a bastard come on

Out come and play with us I don’t want to break you all right successfully extracted again this one in the corner man it wants to fight all right spot of cleaning these are original chrome kidney grills pretty much brand new a very nice subscriber sent me these thank

You very much let’s pop them in yeah I think I like that better what do you think Chrome or glossy black I’m not sure I like them both if I’m being honest for now I’m going to rock the Chrome ones and then if I changed my mind I’m going to put

Back the glossy ones I almost forgot about this but we have a micro fiber air scoop to install here from eventuri first got to clean the surface here sticky tape but as we learn with the badges on the V10 engine I don’t trust the tape so we’re going to use

Rino seal as an extra securing point I think one here and I think one more here that out of it hi hey yeah see the sticky tape doesn’t do anything so you have to press it on the inside as well extra 27 horsepowers a couple of things in the

Interior the Alcantara steering wheel I don’t hate it but I don’t like it either I don’t like this flat thing on the bottom and Alcantara for everyday use is just terrible like it already doesn’t look that great and also this blue start button needs to go for a walk and never

Come back the battery is disconnected and it’s pokey poke time there it is let’s the airbag removed okay you there’s a mark on the column and string wheel start button I think we can just peel the slab of wood like an onion no we going to need tools oh okay

Onion peels easier can I extract the start button without removing everything I don’t care if I damage the button I do care if I damage my beautiful wood trim okay the buzzel okay oh wait a minute okay now it’s getting loose just come out for it’s just plastic

Clips how can they be this strong there it is it’s out off to the B goes this is the original M3 letter steering wheel that a lovely subscriber from the state sent me I can’t remember the exact year but he removed this from his own M3 back in let’s say

2010 and it has 500 Miles something like that so it’s basically brand new original never recovered it looks beautiful the only thing that I just realized this is the steering wheel for a DCT Car dual clutch transmission so you get pedals here in the back and the

Manual one doesn’t have that so I want to use the steering wheel cuz as I said it’s original in perfect condition never recovered so I’m going to pop it in like this for now and then see if I can maybe find some covers to cover up the holes

Here need to transfer over the buttons and also lose the end button here screws okay I’m going to go visit the donor car and um steal the black and button cuz this just looks cheesy and this I’m actually not going to get rid of it I

Don’t want to sell it because this would be a perfect steering wheel for a track car and I do hope one day that I’m going to build E90 or e92 track car here’s the steering wheel from the donor car pop the cover and extract the button there’s the button

And you go give it a bit of a clean there you go M button restored going to clean the buttons this trim is actually in very good condition it must have been replaced at some point and here’s a brand new Original start button they’re fake ones

On eBay as well but they don’t look right this does plug it in line up the marks the bolt perfect oh man that is so much better really is mint the steing wheel I nearly forgot about this dazzling feature get out just get lost don’t a car to the rescue once again much

Better the license plates got a good one Frankfurt M3 e92 that cost me 10 bucks because the car already has German papers it was easy to get the tooth the green party sticker that’s the old one if you drive in Germany this green sticker is something you need in order

To drive in the cities and we’re ready for the first [Applause] drive We have 232,000 km when I bought the car the speeder was showing around 84,000 km which was false when it was sold on the auction in the states the speedo was showing 144,00 something miles which translates to 232 500 km so o from Moi Motors coed

The car with the speedo backed it out mileage and then added a bit more to kind of compensate for that cuz the car went from the states to ltia then to Germany and somewhere along the way someone manipulated the mileage of the car so this is the true mileage on the

Speedo now cold start OE from o motos put the cold start function back on okay first St get some fuel and check the oil level I know it’s going to need some oh I got to check wait a minute we have a service engine some light already well that’s

Great so the check engine light just came on so back we go and I just put the OBD cover back on cuz I thought I’m not going to need it foolish of me fuel injector rail pressure sensor circuit out of range or performance problem so

Let me clear them start it again and see what comes back let’s at least drive to the fuel station and back and see if the codes come back maiden voyage oh I just lost mirrors what you stupid thing okay let’s get some fuel okay fueled up and the mirror is misbehaving again

Okay I’m going to scan for COD again so I got fuel pressure model comparison I don’t know what’s that about so let’s just drive around and see what’s what suspension is stiffer than I thought it would be we are on the road the car is getting

Up to Temp and it’s finally trying to check the oil level so I’m going to pull over somewhere let it do that we’ve covered 3 km yep the fuel pressure sensor is plugged in the oil level is correct and that’s the most important thing breaking in a brand new engine a common mistake

Here would be to Baby the engine to like not go over 2,000 RPM and just drive very very slowly and gently you don’t want to do that what you actually want to do is to drive the car normally that means half a throttle no wide open

Throttle and just rev the car up to 4,000 5,000 RPM just rev all the time smoothly speed up speed down keep the RPMs moving don’t go on the highw or the autoban and turn the cruise control on and just do th000 2,000 km like that if

You’re on the highway speed up Slow Down Speed Up slow down you just want to keep the RPMs moving and that way you will essentially teach the engine how it’s going to work for the rest of its life that is very important in order to properly bed in the piston rings so what

We need to bet in here are the piston rings the cam shafts and the clutch so we’re going to hit the back roads and just drive the car we’re going to do about 100 to 200 km and then going to go back to the shop change the oil check if

You have any leaks any other issues and then continue driving with mineral oil for about 1,000 km then I’m going to switch to full synthetic 10w 60 and then do another 500,000 km and then the engine should be fully broken in going to do a bit of autobound driving so smooth acceleration 40,000

RPM man the shifter feels phenomenal M mode ooh DMO does make a lot of difference but it has the stupid sharp throttle setting that I need to turn off is that it yes that’s the one the throttle is back to being normal let the RPMs drop on their own I love

Seeing that bulge in the hood it looks so musly so far the car feels great we need new shocks but other than that feels brilliant I haven’t even checked if the radio is working yeah it is is ah tire pressure monitor malfunction I did buy brand new tire pressure

Sensors as we learned with Alpena the first 100 kilm are critical if something’s going to go wrong it’s going to go within first 100 km the oil level reading machine is now saying that it needs one liter of oil so let me park somewhere flat and check the oil level again it sounds

Great so with Alpena after about 400 km I could hear a distinctive change of sound from the engine and the exhaust once the engine was well run in let’s see if I’m going to feel the same thing here here it’s saying that it needs one more liter of oil so let’s add some

Oil so still getting that fuel pressure model comparison error okay I just found a thread on the form and some guy had the same issue same code 27c and he replaced the fuel pressure sensor and everything went back to normal I think once we get back to the dojo I’m going

To borrow the fuel pressure sensor from the donor car and now it’s saying full so what happened is while we were driving the car got up to Temp and the oil cooler thermost start open and probably swallowed a liter of oil more half a throttle speed up Nicely ooh in another e92 decelerate accelerate still won’t reset TPM which tells me that sensors that I bought might not be right or I need to code them program them something like that anyone want some Fisherman’s no okay did offer fresh carbon fiber it’s not working out there steering wheel feels great I

Love it Rogue engineering shifter is phenomenal I love it same as on the d46 beautiful short click click precise smooth throws I love that how it should be from the factory by the way hoodies look at that it looks great doesn’t it a good thing we have winter tires

It’s quite a lot of ice around here oh R matching in this car is going to be so good oh it sounds so good naughty oh this is actually the same road where I took the E60 M5 for the very first drive as well so far thoroughly enjoyable Drive the engine is working

Lovely okay does this thing have Bluetooth it should shouldn’t it 2011 at new new phone yes please we hooked up oh there we go there we go oh that sounds freaking awesome I love that sh we can’t copyright but that sounds great what a beautiful summer day huh we have slightly higher compression

Ratio Pistons we have shrick cams and higher flowing heads by topar Motorworks and another modu so the car should make significantly more power than stock uh and once the engine is fully run in we’re going to go on the dyno and then tune it further and

See how much power we’re going to get out of this engine that’s going to be exciting stock it’s 420 PS but these cars are notorious for delivering a lot less on the dyno like 390 or 400 from the factory we’ll see what this one makes don’t know if I said this but the

Reason why we’re running mineral oil is it’ll allow for more wear to happen which is important for piston rings they need to B in they need to scrape up the walls and seal properly sounds so good so that’s what you want to do just accelerate smoothly and then decelerate listen into that intake

Noise oh I’m not going give half a throttle it’s like maybe 1/3 oh it’s foggy now the visibility has gone down significantly I we just jamming to the music and I got to say the sound system is unbelievable it’s really good if I’m not mistaken this should be the

Individual sound system for the E90 platform and it’s anyway we covered 85 km now we’re going to start heading back we have 73 km to get back to the dojo and then change the oil and see how many 3 million oil leaks we have just occurred to me that there are

Absolutely no squeaks or rattles or anything in this interior it’s perfect as far as the things that are broken obviously that left mirror need to fix that it’s just the pin that’s getting stuck we need to clean it so not a difficult fix the rest of the Interior

Is pretty bang on there’s nothing that we need to do here it’s in very very good condition just clean it and that’s it the letter is in perfect condition nothing else is broken that’s 4,000 RPM and it sounds magnificent so the seat is really good

I’ve been sitting now for for 2 3 hours no issues whatsoever I found my perfect position I am sitting slightly higher I wish I was slightly lower but still it’s fine I’m I can get used to it what a machine I can’t stop smiling the light output from the headlights is

Pretty average and that’s something that we’re going to address in the next episode we are back 157 kilm and the engine still sounds wonderful forgot does this car have Park yeah it does let’s change the oil no oil leaks that I can smell so far

So the oil is going to be very glittery full of tiny tiny metal shavings which is absolutely normal during the brakin period as the components inside of the engine are Bing in wearing in so for example the cylinder walls the piston rings are scraping them and that’s creating that Dusty glittery stuff that

You see in the oil boom yep glitter indeed oil leaks where are you it’s actually not too bad at all way less glittery than the initial oil that we drained while the oil is draining we can drop the under tray and check for leaks look at this a BMW without oils

Like beer without foam you probably can’t see well maybe you can a little bit but the front of the engine is absolutely dry so that means and a sides as well so that means that the bed plate is sealing properly as well as the front main seal all of the lines are

Dry and that makes me very very happy the trans is dry as well rear remain nope NADA it’s almost like I built it properly I let’s not get too cocky huh and the thread repair that I did here is working successfully as you saw no leaks the oil filter looks good no big

Chunks of metal which is good we are continuing with 10w40 mineral oil pre- lubed oil filter check the parsing fluid level perfect coolant perfect as well the fuel pressure sensor lives right over there so I’m going to remove the cover to access it h here’s the one that I stole from

The donor car going to pop it in and see if that resolves our code the car still has stupid us speec mirror glass which is like the dumbest thing ever why would you use something that gives you less visibility I don’t understand so I’m going to remove this

And use the Euros spe a spherical mirrors from the donor car that is a UK car and has the right mirrors actually I can only use the left one cuz the right one leaked out going to have to buy a new one there there you go I’ve showed you this

In the past and I’m not sure if I’m managing to do it correctly right now but the USC mirror it’s a like a normal mirror and it looks like it’s zoomed in so your field of vision it’s much narrower than this one this looks like it’s zoomed out that’s the best way I

Can explain it and then you have this corner here for the dead spot when you’re changing lanes on the highway whatnot so this is a much much better mirror plug in the connector so annoying to drive with those mirrors now I can continue driving cold start Time check engine light just came on and I was just about to say that it didn’t come on last night when I was driving back home yeah same code so I’m going to order a brand new fuel pump and and fuel filter was planning to do that

Anyway I was just hoping to do it a bit later you’re going to go wash the car he needs a wash badly hello uh that guy is thorough usually they’re just and gone when it comes to car washes this one really isn’t that bad it’s the middle of the winter okay I’m

Not going to handwash the car it hasn’t been detailed yet active sh yep that’s bent F at least it’s not brushes you know I got the premium wash with the wax and whatnot 20 man20 it used to be 15 just made a quick stop at a French bakery grabbed some goodies got a

Baguette with salami it’s good it’s 65 nice 740i tiny engine I hate these stupid Electronics oil level readers so let me park on a flat surface flattish and L do it thing in the meantime I can chug this delicious eair with vanilla I don’t understand what was

Wrong with an oil dipstick you pull it out and you physically see the oil level you’re lying sack of update we are at 886 km and my better half is here and we’re going to limbo to grab limbaga Zea something like that it’s a very delicious apple treat with

Apples uh as far as the car goes I got a new code EDC malfunction electronic dumper control and the code reads for the valves in the front shock absorbers so as I said the shocks are shot and when that code pops up it goes automatically into the stiffest setting

So it’s very very uncomfortable to drive on the Autobon so we need to change the shocks ASAP other than that the code for the fuel pressure sensor or fuel pressure has gone away can’t explain it I refueled a couple of times and now it’s gone so I suspect it has something

To do with the fuel filter and the fuel pump which I’ll need to replace as soon as possible as well other than that the car is doing well really well I did take it up to 5 six even 7,000 RPM and I can already say that the engine is fully run

In it just it pulls great it’s very smooth the engine uh changed the sound the Noe is different it’s a bit deeper burer and it just pulls very cleanly see just magnificent to drive so we should hit th000 km on the way back and then we’re going to switch to 10 60

Oh by the way I did do another wall change at around 500 km just because I wanted to see what the oil looked like and to my surprise very very clean pretty much no Glitter at all so the engine is it’s doing well I can’t do the book test just

Yet she doesn’t know what that is this is the place Cafe will if you’re passing by limberg which is somewhere between Frankfurt and cologne make a pit stop here it is a very old coffee house I think it was founded in 1880 and currently the fifth generation it’s

Still family-owned is running this place and they have really good coffee and a delicious treat which is my favorite called limbaga zaka hello hello this is the one get that there it is and it’s gone limbaga Zea here we go 1,000 km completed and here’s what the engine sounds like after 1,000

Km it’s mint we got it a bit dirty but the engine sounds wonderful smooth of silk fairly clean very good and now we’re going to go with 10w 60 full synthetic we are running be rod bearings with extra rod bearing clearance so we can run this oil Safely absolutely love it but the V10 has the better bark which end sounds better okay I’m still not going to go foot to the floor or Red Line the engine but before we close out this episode I got to give you a little taste of what This Magnificent engine

And car feels like so we’re going to go on the autoban have a bit of fun I’m going to do 2/3 of the throttle and I’m going to use the Rev range but I’m not going to like red lineing to 8,400 whatever it is I want to do another 900

Km before I can say the engine is fully fully broken in even though it is I can feel it and then I can be really really hard on it here we go oh it feels terrible at high speed the shocks are really really blown it’s very very floaty so the

Shocks they’re super stiff over bumps but then at high speed it’s just way too floaty I don’t like it we need new shocks that’s it 250 we’re limited by the winter tires I got to do something about the clutch pedal it has a ton of dead travel towards the bot botom and

Then even more towards the top it’s very high it’s very annoying after later jumping into the E60 M5 it hit me hard how badly the clutch pedal feels on the M3 the pedal is super springy and very light there’s a ton of dead travel on the top and the bottom the clutch pedal

Sits notably higher in relation to the brake pedal and it’s difficult to feel the biting point this makes fast shifting rather tricky and none of my auto manual cars feel like this after a bit of Googling turns out I’m not the only one to find this to be an issue and

A popular mod is to remove one out of two springs for the clutch pedal and this supposedly improves the pedal feel I opted for a new setup and placed an order for an ultimate clutch pedal assembly made out of Billet aluminium and we’re going to be installing that in the next episode [Applause] And again this wasn’t Full Throttle it’s coming in the next episode [Applause] Let me tell you a story the year was 2008 200 9 a young stron was on his way to the high school in a bus listening music on his tiny red MP3 player I think it was like 512 megabytes something ridiculous by today’s standards and I was daydreaming of driving this this

Very own car e92 M3 I remember when it came out in 2007 I I just fell in love with the design the shape I adored the car and then I heard a V8 Bur bable how it drives and that was it I just stayed in my memory forever and uh I had a

Monte Carlo blue e92 M3 on my wallpaper forever and one of the songs that takes me back to that exact moment when I was daydreaming about this car is the one that I’m going to play right now so if you’ll excuse me I’m going to fulfill my Teenage Dream Guru Josh project Infinity

Man that takes me back didn’t know anything about cars mechanically back then and could never afford one either so the fact that I own one right now it’s thank you thank you all so much it’s so beautiful isn’t it I keep turning back wherever I park

It and I just just keep looking at it God I love this car and the shape it’s you know people dream about Ferraris Lambos supercars hyper cars for me this was it absolutely ecstatic that this car is finally back on the road another formerly broken BMW back where it

Belongs and that makes me very happy in the next episode we are going to replace the shocks that’s the number one thing that I hate about the car right now because it constantly keeps going into that fail safe mode and then the shocks stiffen up and it’s very uncomfortable

To drive I hate it so hopefully bin can deliver them in in time and then we got to fix that stupid mirror and replace the fuel filter the fuel pump overhaul the headlights we’re going to upgrade the projectors cuz the current ones are really pathetic and then replace the

Rear tailights and then after about 2,000 kilm I can finally go wide open through throttle so we’re going to do some pulls going to put the car on the dyno do the final tune and see how much power this engine is making should be a pretty exciting episode the next episode of how

Is going to be on Project Marc the E31 850i we are finally building the m73 b54 wi12 engine for it and um well stay tuned for that I just want to say a huge thank you to all of you for following along for being part of this project for

Subscribing sharing the videos all of that good stuff and helping me get this car back on the road it is a fabulous fabulous feeling to see this car running and driving again and a special thank you to all of my patreons anyway I love

You all and I’ll see you in the next one I’m going to stand where you standing and just keep looking at the car