Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Review & Luxury Watch Buyer’s Guide

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Email: tmosso@thewatchbox.com
Phone: (484) 560-6284

Contact tmosso@thewatchbox.com for pricing and availability; Either I have it, or I can get it!

Watches featured on this edition of Weekend Watches:
4828265 – Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph (5500V110AB148)
4904900 – H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon (3804-1208)
4616983 – Breitling Superocean (A17367D71B1A1)
4909305 – Breitling Avi REF.765 1953 Re-Edition Chronograph (AB0920131B1X1)
4630083 – Alain Silberstein Krono Bauhaus Limited Edition (KRONOBAUHAUSBLK)
4477097 – Franck Muller Long Island Imperial Tourbillon (REF 1200 T)
4691937 – De Bethune DB28 GS (DB28GSV1AN)
4775953 – Roger Dubuis Golden Square Flying Tourbillon (G40037)
4708038 – De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono (DB28MCRZN)

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Hi this is Tim of the 1916 company welcome and thanks for logging on we are waking up with watches everything you see here is for sale reach out to me I am still taso thewatchbox.com and not only do we sell well we buy what we sell

And we sell what we buy which means we will buy your entire collection one watch or every watch we pay cash we pay fast no upper limit on value paid and we walk you through the entire process if you just have one you’d like to trade

For another we also do trades to buy trade or sell reach out to me I am T moso thewatchbox.com all right let’s jump straight in with a watch that came out in 2016 as you see it right here 42.5 mm in stainless steel this is the third generation of ashron constant

Overseas chronograph now the dial is a very difficult thing to describe I’ll try to get a little bit closer here it has a mirrorlike shine to it but there’s also a translucent lacquer over a black polished base so it has the same kind of metallic and gloss hybrid aesthetic that

You get on a chronomat blue from fpj and I understand the process for making this dial is very similar to that one so you’ve got a polished metal base translucent blue on top white gold logo hour indices and hands unlike the second generation Chrono we don’t have the

Asymmetrical big ey minute register here we have Tri registers all of the same size taking a quick look in profile everything is a screw down so this watch is 150 m water resistant which is outstanding for its product class where anything between 50 and 120 tends to be

The case now the watch does have a snap off snap on quick release bracelet system easier to do if you have more Nails than I do but there you go just like that and so watch comes with two straps one blue leather one blue rubber and then an extra deployant clasp to use

With those straps the bracelet has its own built-in double deployant and a fun feature across the third generation overseas a sleeved 1.5 mm micro adjustment hides on each side of the clasp every single Link in the bracelet is removable so you will get the right size and you can see there are different

Size links in there see there’s an intermediate in case you’re in between sizes twin trigger release so it can’t pop open accidentally press both triggers pops open close it up and then Marvel at the Finish look at those interior Hollows of the multi cross Motif down the center how they’ve been

Polished and contrast beautifully with the satin of the tops and the rolled bevel and the Polish of the sides now one of the key changes from the first two generation of overseas was that Generation 3 uses display case backs manufactur movements and movements that have the Hallmark of Geneva the P de

Genev the Geneva seal you could see that they cap their column wheel with a black polished multi cross then you have the Geneva seal on the movement but also on the case because it is now a full watch standard and with a soft iron ring around the movement you get 2 5,000 amp

Per meter antimagnetic resistance the movement is large and properly fills the case back we have four different finishes on this 22 karat rose gold rotor Geneva seal finish means Stripes bevels black polish satini chisling and media blasting and all of this with a 52-hour power Reserve vertical clutch

And column wheel you can see how easy it is to just pop the bracelet right back on we’ll do a quick Loom shot here and then I’ll give you a wrist shot bright blue loom blue by day Blue by night and the watch is large at 42.5

But it’s not ungainly and you do have a lot of sizing options built into that bracelet I’d recommend this watch for risk to 15 cm circumference or larger it’s a much more refined product than something like a Royal Oak chronograph and much more versatile than something

Like a royal Lo offshore even as it surpasses the water resistance and magnetic resistance of the ostensibly rough and tough offshore now jumping to a very different kind of blue dial this this is a 2023 release from H Moser andc of shaf Housen Switzerland we have the

Pioneer torban 40 mm part of the pioneer 40 mm collection this watch has a fume or smoked gradient dial in their new Arctic blue color which is a super bright electrifying blue the watch 120 M water resistant just over 12 mm thick 40 in diameter in stainless steel you’re

Not paying for precious metal here and you can see Moser ever greet confident in its satile but also subtle in its branding you can see the clear lacquer Moser logo on the dial now let’s do a loom shot and we’ll take a look at the toron plenty of loom again a very

Swimmable watch it even comes with a factory rubber strap now the toron is a one minute flying torban so there’s no Upper Bridge to block your view and it accsess the second s for the watch but you can see two horizontally opposed flat hairs Springs being equal and opposite in orientation geometry and

Mass in any position gravity will cause one to run fast and the other by an equal and opposite margin to run slowly so they cancel each other out even more effective than an overcoil and achieving the original purpose of a torban which was to even out the effects of gravity

On a pocket watch this brings the practicality of that original invention into the wristwatch era on a wristatch this is a chronometrically intended toron not merely candy taking a quick look you can see that the toron structure is the best finished piece of the movement it is free sprung for

Durability as well as precise adjustment the tbon cage satinated and micro beveled with black polish on the studs and stud holders turn it all over solid rose gold rotor with three finishes paul-based bidirectional magic lever style winding system ceramic bearings for efficiency 21,600 vibrations per hour 3 days of power reserve and then

You can see the evacuations the hollows and and the perforations on the strap this is a very easy watch to wear even on a small wrist when the Pioneer first came out in 2015 it was a great evolution of moser’s modern design language stepping into the sports watch

Realm but at 42.8 MM it was just too big for some this at 40 is perfect for me and quite likely for many others including ladies who will find this is a very appealing fit and yes with a domed bezel and a low profile it will fit underneath the

Cuff I always like to offer some value options on these shows it’s true my company’s interest is mostly in high horology and five figure watches but at the same time this is the kind of watch that got me into the hobby sea Masters speed Masters and super oceans from

Brands that still price some watches for the common man who has an aspiration and a willingness to prioritize his finances a bit this is the brightling super ocean 2 44 mm in diameter in steel water resistant down down to 1,000 M helium Escape valve captive bezel robustly assembled and fixed the case using

Screws a system favored by brightling and Zin for toughness a nice precise sharply Nur 120 click dive bezel and then you can see the dial is all anti-reflective with ar coding under the crystal a matte black dial and then muted hands numerals and indices will do a loom shot as you can

See no shortage there and the Bessel Pearl is a little bit above average in size for a d so it makes it easy to reference against the minutes hand we’ll take a quick look at the clasp you can see removable links here are fixed in place using screws you have four sets of

Divots so with your strap tool you can move the bracelet in and out to change the size and with your Jeweler screw drivers you can change the size by adding or removing links single fold deployant we have a clamshell lock right here and then we’ll roll around take a

Look pointed Crown guards a little bit of a vintage nod there and on the reverse side side you can see this is a super ocean the line originally launched with the first brightling dive watch of 1957 and this watch has a chronometer certified caliber 17 which is a

28242 automatic winding 38h hour power Reserve 4 Herz speat rate 25 jewles quick set date stop seconds five position adjustment and yes a cc certified Swiss chronometer now it’s a big watch at 44 mm lug to Lug this watch is 52.5 but you can see the curvature of

The lugs right there so it wraps around my wrist while I’m borderline for this watch I would wear it quite comfortably and you can see the definitive shot is that down the barrel where you could see the lugs are not quite over the edge of

My wrist now if that’s just a bit too big or too modern for you brightling has other options under George Kern the company has been re-releasing fairly faithful tributes to its historic references in 2020 we got this a 1,953 Edition brightling Avi this is the reference 765 reedition

ATT tribute to a 1953 model that proves brightling has more pilots watches both currently and historically than just the navitimer this is more of a classical Pilot’s chronograph the detent on the bidirectional timing bezel is the best I’ve ever encountered on a bidirectional bezel which tend to be rather indistinct

Compared to the unidirectional type well this isn’t a diving bezel it is a timing bezel and you can line up the minutes or the hours you can see it is calibrated in terms of hours but you can use it either way assuming you just remember where the minutes correspond and then

We’ve got a dial with sort of Fatina which nicely matches the contrasting Stitch of the calf strap which is classic aviators plexiglass or I should say hessite thermoplastic Crystal here just like the 1953 original no date manual wind it’s a b09 which is bright Ling’s manual wind conversion of its in-house b01

So manual wind 70h hour power Reserve vertical clutch for smooth engagement column wheel for crisp feel and by the way brightlings b01 family column wheel is one of the best feeling and sounding in the business 4 Hertz 47 jewles pull the crown out you do have a stop seconds

Function five position adjusted and a cc chronometer throw it on the wrist the watch is 41.1 MM and it work quite nicely well under 50 mm from lug to Lug this is going to be a better match for a smaller wrist or those who have a taste for more classical proportions Design

Elements maybe even a little bit of e crew luminescence on a matte black dial this is a great watch that takes you back without any of the compromises in Provence or condition or originality that you find in the actual vintage space and again a rare manual conversion of the

B01 speaking of Rarity they don’t come much less common than an ala Silverstein Chrono bow house with Factory bracelet and a black dial now Al Silverstein French architect turned watch designer created his brand in 1986 he couldn’t get a booth at bosel so he attended his

First in 1987 and from 86 to 2012 he made watches under his own name since then everyone from Lou AR to mbn to Rome and many many more have collaborated with Al Silverstein as his designer value right now is higher than it’s ever been go over to watchbox

Studios and watch my interview with him uh Open Secret he’s relaunching his brand and he’s got service plans for these older watches if you contact him he actually has a person who does service on these watches so don’t worry about the fact that it’s a defunct brand Silverstein is coming back and he

Already has a plan in place to take ownership of what he made during the 80s 9s and 2000s 40 millim in diameter in steel this is a 99 piece limited edition Silverstein Drew on bow house though if we’re honest there’s a bit of day steel here with fundamental colors and shapes

As well as silliness from daada so dada deel and also bow house that is what contributes to his vision of the ideal watch now getting close to the dial you can see there’s actually an amm indicator at the top that’s not a moon phase that lets you know whether you’re looking for

Example at 100 p.m. or 1 a.m. and you can see right there that little red index is just past the midpoint of the day 12 so this is going to be 1 p.m. right there day and date double quick set lania 5100 and by the way look at

The attention to detail here there’s a little notch in one corner of the triangle Crown so you can dig your nail in if you want to withdraw it very smart by the way another pioneering element here solid block Loom on the dial rather than just a printed feature using a

Solid block of polymer-based loom gives the watch a three-dimensional Loom and while early examples of the Chrono bow house did use tridium this is a early 2000s model that features a full luminova dial so the glowing features are still operative it also has the super rare

Factory bracelet and you can see it is very much a factory bracelet designed in the fashion of the caseback with the Silverstein logo and the punchout taking a quick look here this watch is 100 met water resistant and while it’s not a diver Silverstein did see fit to include

A dive extension in his clasps the vast majority of these were ordered with the strap so this is exceptional now taking a look at the case back we may as well pop this all open again we have a modified lman 5100 now it’s a very high-grade version of the 5100 you can

Tell by the Spade spoke balance and it’s been decorated with some of the plastic elements that remain to the 5100s here in those primary colors plus punched out sections much like the architecture of a vintage racing car the lman 5100 is known for being very tough very durable very serviceable surprisingly accurate

And also surprisingly refined as unlike most lman Workhorse chronograph movements of the’ 7s the 5100 actually has let me see if I can fire this up but the 5100 actually has I got to wind it a little bit more well I’ve spoiled the surprise it actually has a vertical clutch so

Despite being a cam chronograph it has the Super refined smooth activation that you get with something like a Rolex dayona 4130 or an Omega 9900 you get that perfectly seamless engagement and there are no other vul Chrono or popularly priced mass production chronographs that combine a cam and a vertical clutch and

Integrated construction for the most part the vertical clutch cam chronographs are modular like the 2894 4 or S sw300 with a DD module on top this is a really cool and really rare watch from a pioneering modern independent let’s see if you guys can guess I’m thinking from the hands and

The numerals you probably already know that this is a Fran muler but did you know it is a genuinely complicated Fran molair named after my homeland this is the Fran molair Long Island Imperial torban the Long Island collection launched in 2000 and the fm01 toron caliber launched in 2001 now this watch

As you can see is a monoblock white gold case so it’s one piece bezel and midc case for a seamless look shaped and cambered Sapphire on both sides not easy to make expensive to create and also to fit and Achieve water resistance note that it uses gray gold not cheap white

Gold it’s rodium plated this is white all the way through the dial featuring sort of Art newvo numerals because let’s face it art deco didn’t really gain steam until the 30s and it wasn’t even introduced as a concept until 1925 so the look of the Jazz Age the flappers

The speak easys The Great Gatsby scene was very much late art Nuvo and taking a look at the tbon you can see not only does it feature the Fran muler logo but it also features engraving it is freehand engraved and a flying toron with no Upper Bridge to block your view

It is a nice slow beating foron that is fully engraved and by the way look at the mirrored bevels on the edge of the bridges as well as in the jewel sinks then look at the engraving freehand with a floriza motif so a sort of floral Motif to match the art Novo sensibility

Sometimes also known as bank note scrolling and you’ll appreciate that even the barrel underneath has been freehand engraved it’s got a 60-hour power Reserve 21 Jews it’s six position adjusted I find it ironic that the most basic Fran molair watches with three hands and a soprod movement say master

Of complications on the back and here we have a flying torban and it doesn’t say anything about Mastery of complications a little bit ironic it’s 32.5 mm across the case it’s 54.6 from end to end and it’s just over 11 thick so it’s a broad

Watch but I can wear it easily and if your wrist is my size or larger you too can be a long Islander like me the Fran muler Long Island and you know for those of you who may not be familiar with great be it set on Long Island or

Principally in Long Island and Long Island was the play place for folks in New York City and New Jersey who would go out and enjoy the NorthShore the Southshore and the party scene during what we called the Roaring 20s in America all right from debaton we have the company’s first modern format sports

Watch the dp2s were sports watches back in the mid to late 2000s but it was 2015 when debaton launched this the no holds bar db28 GS the gr sport now it’s 44 mm in diameter in grade 5 titanium so very light it’s only 11.4 mm thick remember

Rolex Dayton is about 12.2 so it’s a lot thinner than you think but what really sets this one apart is that this might be the only db28 I’ve ever encountered on the short lugs the company has lots of big lugs the big ones are probably the most popular more recently they’ve

Started shipping watches with the in between mediumsized lugs but this lug set goes from 50.7 mm when fully extended to 47.1 so it makes this relatively thin and Light Watch suddenly compatible with smaller wrists like mine you can wear this watch on a wrist as small as 14 cm circumference because you

Have that plant flexible variable geometry lug architecture and it’s a lot thinner than you think taking a look it’s feather light from Over the Top the lugs are not over the edge my wrist and you can see that’s also true from down the barrel the strap is rubber and as

You can see made by Jean Russo of Paris they are the OEM supplier to Deaton also to fpj so this is the good stuff textile and rubber or I should say a combination of black textile and black rubber no alligators or calves were harmed here we have lugs designed to match the Buckle

And buckles designed to match the lugs that’s a common theme across debaton watches so you have this open ay evacuated Prismatic satin finished buckle and then the same treatment on the lugs with these little OG Val bullet tips the last styling vestage remaining from the original product of Deaton the

2002 DB1 on the dial side microlite engraving twin barrels see that little blue index that’s your power Reserve indicator six days of power reserve and you cannot accidentally overwind it take a look from the side and you can see the dial depth is superb black polished full balance bridge for bracing against shock

And one two three shock protection Springs that’s triple pair shoot that is the company’s signature allowing this watch to both resist damage and keep better time really good shock protection will do both twin barrels self-adjusting patented triple parachute patented the balance with a white gold rim and an evacuated silicon wheel patented the

Hairspring two elements cut in half shaped by hand clamped back together breathing concentrically like an overcoil but flat and shock resistant like a flat hairspring that’s patented mirrored plate below the balance not patented but darned cool and then a silicon Escape wheel of De ‘s own design

Screw down Crown 300 ft water resistance absolutely swimmable one of the few debaton db28 that is you could see a black polished cover on the barrel Bridge microlite engraving mirrored onage on the edges of both the springs and the bridge itself the look may be AV

On guard but the Finish is very true to Swiss Heritage and quite beautiful we got some weird ones today this might be the weirdest Roger we became a True Manufacturer in 2001 it started doing business in 1995 as sojam which was an acronym for the company’s full name but Roger duwe the

Man on the dial became the charismatic face of the brand in its early years and even after he departed his name Roger duwe remained on watches that were increasingly made inh house his business partner Carlos Diaz wanted to make every part of the watch and so in 2001 duwe

Opened a manufacture with the ability to make among other parts of the movements the really tough Parts the balance the hairspring the escapement and then this watch here was part of a series launched that year to celebrate the new manufacturer golden Square 40.4 mm across 53.5 mm lug to Lug and all white

Gold with fascinating vertical satin finish on the sides and then polish on other facets you could see that there is let’s just make sure we’re out of the date change Zone here there is is a quicket system that’s coaxial with the crown that allows you to rapidly cycle the double digigit date

Then we have a power Reserve indicator for the 60-hour manual and power reserve and then a flying tbon with a Celtic cross in Black polished and beveled stainless steel that acts as the second’s hand it’s a three HZ movement it’s called the rd03 by the way it has

An RD easy diver clasp because that is what the original owner wanted the clasp I should mention is steel and then and on the back you could see the rd03 would later be known as the Rd 540 they’re the same movement an enormous barrel for the

60 hours of reserve and then a center wheel style train poetically draped diagonally across the movement note 280 piece limited edition Geneva Hallmark outstanding beveling and you can see even within the interior facets of the bridge under the torban we have black polished screw heads with chamford slots and circumference we have internally

Beveled Drive wheels and then we have engine turning both adjacent to the click and the click spring and then on the base plate as well with abrasive wheel stripes across the surfaces a beautiful way to get into a Geneva Hallmark complicated torban built in a limited edition now the watch Wears Like

A 44mm panor luminor so if you’re familiar with those and you’ve worn those then you know exactly how this is going to fit go by the dimensions of the case which is square you can see that the case does not protrude over the edge of my wrist so I could recommend this watch

For my wrist size and up and it is quite comfortable because if you look at the reverse side you could see that it has a cued or curved camber so it drapes over the wrist rather than sitting flat like an old reverso so again Geneva Hallmark flying tbon complications white gold and

A boutique brand that will always be around because Roger dewe is owned by richmont and unlike a lot of Boutique Independents that are hot now this company will always be around to provide parts and service another company that’s going to be around for the Long Haul because we

Own them is debaton and well I won’t necessarily push you to a debaton watch over other Alternatives in general I would encourage you to buy the most expensive watch we have and work from there but I will say these are a personal favorite in addition to being a

Sort of In-House brand for us I was talking about debaton back in 2016 we bought them in 21 so check out my track record I called them the company that only makes gril watches and this db28 Maxi Chrono is a Grail watch fully skeletonized internally beveled black polished Bridges a toron with an

Escapement beating away at 36,000 vibrations per hour again there’s the silicon and white gold proprietary balance wheel you could see that this is a triple column wheel movement with three clutches three drivetrains so that there’s no loss of balance amplitude when you actuate the Maxi Chrono here’s

How the Maxi Chrono Works five hands at Center the Brigade style Hands In Black tell you the hours and the minutes then you have your chronograph 60 seconds a radial indicator of 60 chronograph minutes and then a little stub index that tracks 24 chronograph hours with maxi Chrono they’re all centralized in

Coaxial now this is a 44mm case rose gold with scratch resistant blackened zirconium floating lugs we have three clutches each with a column wheel we have a lateral clutch for the hours an oscillating pinion for the minutes and a vertical clutch for the seconds the idea

Is to offer a good blend of seamless actuation and also shock resistance while creating three separate drivetrains so while you do use the power Reserve more rapidly when the chronograph is running the watch doesn’t slow down the way a conventional chronograph would and in spite of all of the features populating this case

Assuming the Chrono is not running the watch has a 5day power Reserve throw it on the wrist this is a big watch I’m not going to lie it doesn’t fit me quite as well as the db28 GS did because this one has the wide lugs so you can see that’s

What the big lugs look like if you wanted a sense of the small versus big lugs this episode is probably the only place on YouTube where you can find both for comparison that said it’s not super thick so it will slide underneath most cuffs this is also one of the few solid

Dial DB 28s so if you like a more conservative solid dial especially with applied blackened gold Arabic numerals this is going to be the one for you if you love any of these watches reach out to me I am t- moso with thewatchbox.com for purchase and pricing details