Building My Ultimate Modded Xbox 360 – Halo 4 Edition with RGH, Dual-NAND, & LTU2 Unlocked Board!

I’ve done plenty of tutorials and one-off builds related to different Xbox 360 consoles here on the channel, but I’ve always had a specific build in mind that I’ve wanted to accomplish for myself as my “main” console to use. I always loved how the Halo 4 Xbox 360 Slim console looked, and a few years ago I finally ended up buying one for a respectable price! It was console only, not in the greatest shape, but it was good enough for my liking. As things usually go, the console got put to the side and wasn’t worked on until recently. After working on a Halo 4 console for a friend of mine, I finally decided to pull my own out of my closet as I was struck with inspiration needed to work on it. This might not be the most impressive build out there, but it’s my own personal build, and one that I’ve wanted for years!

This build is a Corona motherboard which comes in the Halo 4 edition of the Xbox 360 Slim. It has had the RGH modification applied to it, meaning it can now be unlocked to play unsigned code in the form of custom Dashboards, game mods, emulators, homebrew, and more! As I still wanted to go online cleanly, this console has also had the Viper V2 Dual-NAND board installed. This will allow the console to flip between a clean Retail NAND and a modified NAND, essentially squishing two consoles into one. Finally, I still wanted the ability to play any backup games from disc on either side, so I replaced the DVD drive’s board with a LTU2 Unlocked PCB.

#Xbox360Modding #RGH #LTU2

This video has been made with Fair Use in mind and has been created as an educational piece of media.

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Timestamps!

0:00 – Intro
3:33 – Why S-RGH?
4:40 – Preparing the Console for S-RGH
9:13 – Installing S-RGH
20:03 – Installing the Dual-NAND Viper Board
44:11 – Installing the LTU2 Board
57:01 – THIS IS THE END.

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Product Affiliate Links:

Opqpq ODM501 Digital Microscope:
Amazon – https://geni.us/ODM501

Xbox 360 Console:
Amazon – http://geni.us/6T16Nnd
eBay – https://ebay.us/4aan93

Xbox 360 Hard Drive:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9vJZ89
Amazon – https://geni.us/Xbox360HDD
eBay – https://ebay.us/hm0jO6

Xbox 360 Postfix Adapter:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9JM16T
Amazon – https://geni.us/pERL
eBay – https://ebay.us/jyVjd9

X360ACE V3:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9ghi7S
Amazon – https://geni.us/CAwpFN
eBay – https://ebay.us/MabOcI

0603 LEDs:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DBGP4Bz
Amazon – https://geni.us/od2Wd
eBay – https://ebay.us/FUBFMr

T8/T10 Screwdrivers:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AVAmv1
Amazon – https://geni.us/yzIe5Vn
eBay – https://ebay.us/zwb5fy

X-Clamp Removal Tool:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A5Mx3I
Amazon – https://geni.us/NhM4i
eBay – https://ebay.us/5Qfha8

X-Acto Knife:
Amazon – https://geni.us/q1q5J2b
eBay – https://ebay.us/9tekbD

30 AWG Kynar Wire:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AtyWUN
Amazon – https://geni.us/DXP0j
eBay – https://ebay.us/z1VaZF

USB Flash Drive:
AliExpress – https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9fTYtx
Amazon – https://geni.us/pFA9I
eBay – https://ebay.us/uowUuL

Soldering Tools & Products:
US – https://www.amazon.com/shop/mrmario2011
UK – https://www.amazon.co.uk/shop/mrmario2011

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References, Shoutouts, and More!

Octal’s Console Shop:
https://www.octalsconsoleshop.com/

The Mod Shop:
https://themodshop.co/home/

S-RGH Guide from JoinTheResistance:
https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/trinity-corona-s-rgh-tutorial-start-to-finish-slim-only-16mb.1595235/

S-RGH Guide from ConsoleMods:
https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox_360:RGH/S-RGH

Viper V2 Corona Guide from LegendOfRock420:

Viper Dual Nand V2 Corona Install
byu/LegendOfRock420 in360hacks

Aurora, Dashlaunch, and XeXMenu Setup:

How to RGH 1.2 a Xbox 360 Phat (Falcon/Jasper):

How to RGH3 a Xbox 360 Phat (Falcon/Jasper):

How to RGH3 a Xbox 360 Slim (Trinity):

How to RGH3 a Xbox 360 Slim (Corona):

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Social Media & More!

Discord: https://Discord.Me/MrMario2011
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/MrMario2011
Second Channel: http://www.youtube.com/iPsychozoa
Twitter: http://www.twitter.com/MrMario2011
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/MrMario2011
Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/MrMario2011
Twitch: http://www.twitch.tv/MrMario2011

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Song Information
Artist: pyama
Song: shifting tides
Soundcloud: literalbagoftrash
Link: https://soundcloud.com/literalbagoftrash

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Any links specifically listed as affiliate links give me a small monetary kickback at no extra cost to you and no influence on the content.

Hey what is going on everyone it’s me Mr Mario and in this video here we’re gonna just do something here a little bit fun kind of random and I’m going to just be providing commentary over this I do not recommend what that is to say I don’t

Recommend people use this as a tutorial because this is not meant to be a tutorial so if anybody is seeing this and they’re frustrated oh I needed a little more detail here or something just don’t follow along with this I don’t even really recommend this specifically uh but I’ll explain why

Exactly I did what I did here so in short we are going to be building out the ideal Xbox 360 that I have wanted at this point here this is a system that really I would be putting in my game room this is some that I have wanted for

Years now I’ve actually had this console for a while here I picked it up a few years ago console only used I felt like it was a good deal at the time unfortunately it wasn’t really in the best shape and I kind of just put it off

To the side knowing that I was going to work on this project at some point that’s how a lot of my Hardware goes but I finally ended up getting inspiration because one of my friends ended up wanting a Halo 4 Xbox 360 modded he was

Able to find one he picked it up and then I ended up doing a rgh3 mod on that and after I did that on his system I was like you know I am really really tempted to do this on mine now and I actually did work on mine at one point however I

Found out uh you know this wasn’t fully the case in short uh I failed doing a rgh3 install on that the PLL point I just really scuffed that up on there however I’m now realizing it probably wasn’t the PLL point that was the issue it was probably the adapter I was using

And I I get to that at one point for the post fix adapter either way here what I am doing is I am building out this system that I have wanted I’ve always loved the Xbox 360 Halo 4 edition I’ve always thought it was a gorgeous system

I always thought it was cool that to my understanding this was the only version of the console that ended up having from the Factory this is stock it ended up having modified LEDs so it has white LEDs and then the cover that goes over the LEDs ends up kind of masking them so

They show up as blue and the controllers I don’t have the controllers but the controllers also have blue LEDs on them they really went all out on this system knowing that this is going to be one of the last special edition Xbox 360s so it’s certainly a cool system to have now

To build it to my own specification here I’m still one of those weird people uh for my own personal system that like I would actually use and not experiment with I like to have dual nand because there are times I do just boot up into a stock environment and get onto Xbox Live

So for me I like having dual Nano I know most people aren’t going to need it or want it or even see the point of it and that is totally fine listen I’m a weirdo right this is what I’m wanting to do here in 2023 at least while I was

Working on all of this so that’s what I wanted to do here I want to take a Halo 4 system I wanted to install a dome and mod on there so I can do both retail Xbox Live and also stay offline for the modded side on all on one system and I

Already have a system that does this but I really wanted the Halo 4 system and on top of that I also want to flash the DVD drive again something that people are probably going to see as completely useless at this point but for me I’m one of those people when I modified my

Systems I do like to maximize them so whenever I do a hard mod on Xbox 360 I also like to flash the DVD drive so there’s going to be three different mods that I’m going to be doing here first is going to be the RGH second is going to

Be the Dual nand and third is going to be the DVD drive flashing so we’re going to get into all of that here now I said before that I tried to do rgh3 on here and I was not able to do it so at this

Point here I ended up having to go with another type of modification there’s a few that you can do but I would say I have looked around I’ve used this before and I also spoke with Josh over from octal’s console shop big shout out to him just to verify this and after

Talking with him really he verified with me that if you’re not going to be using PLL on a slim srgh is going to be the better mod that you can do on there as opposed to any of the other options however if you are going to be scraping

And using PLL on a slim you could either do RGH 1.2 or rgh3 which is up to you if you want to use a chip or not however since I cannot use the PLL point on this system I’m going to be going with srgh and for that I’m going to be using this

Chip here which is going to be the ace V3 now for this here for the most part I ended up kind of following along with the join the resistance tutorial over on seven sins that they had written up for srgh on a 16 megabyte slim trendy or

Corona so big shout out and thank you to them I also ended up referring to the rghs RGH page over on Console mods because I felt like the glitch chip installation photo that they had for the X360 Ace Corona that actually ended up being better and you know it worked for

Me in this regard so I would say I used those two references at least for the RGH side of house so we’re going to go microscopic with the footage at this point now forgive me if the footage looks a little bit different here I was actually working with and reviewing the

Opqpq microscope that had gotten sent over to me so I was using it and it wasn’t super bad for the most part uh it worked okay but I just want to record this so I would get some more experience with it and also you know work with it

For a review so here the first thing I ended up doing was I of course had the system ripped apart and then I went over to the nand headers and I found you know the ones that I would need for this now this is a later Corona model which is

Going to need the post-fix adapter however it is a 16 megabyte so that’s why I was just using all of these points right here pretty simple for the most part I just ended up going in I used the X flasher 360 wires for this and I just ended up wiring up everything accordingly

Foreign once all that was done I took my system over to my computer and I ended up grabbing the latest version of jrunner with extras over from octal’s site of course that will be linked Down Below in the description now I was more showing it here but I already had a version

Installed and I actually just got to use the auto update feature so I updated to the latest release but then what I did was I made sure I had my 360 plugged into Power I then ended up hooking up the X flasher from my computer over to

The Flasher itself and then over to the Xbox from there I was able to make sure the console was detected and I got two good nand reads I also did verify beforehand that the console was working and in good condition and all of that fun stuff so we’re all good there I’m

Working with a good working console so after I got my two good nand reads at this point I actually modified the system technically so I ended up creating the ECC for a glitch 2 image because we are going to be building this as a glitch too and then I wrote it back

To the console however at this point the console is not working because we need a glitch chip to actually Boot It Up in this state so once all this was done I then ended up disconnecting the programmer from the computer and the console and then I went back over to my

Table to continue work on this well excuse me before I did that I actually worked on programming the glitch chip so the glitch chip was a little bit funky to program here I ended up going through the timing assistant which was really great here and I just ended up using at

First the first recommended timing that it had here for a Corona using srgh then at this point I took the x flasher I hooked it up to my computer I also plugged in the JTAG programming cable for the chip itself I hooked that up to

The Chip And I also hooked it up to the X flasher of course and whenever I would plug it in I knew it was successful because it was giving me a red light however it was failing every single time so there was a fix for this here for me

At least which was use another USB port on my computer yeah that was it uh the USB port that I was using for the nand operations just fine but that did not work for actually programming the glitch chip so I had to use a different port which was odd

Because I was thinking you know a port that would be on the motherboard itself versus one on the case would be okay whatever I’m not going to question it all too much here either way I took the programming cable and instead of soldering wires in I just took a six pin

Pin header connected it up and then I physically pushed it into the X360 Ace as you can see when you do that and you apply pressure properly you end up getting a red light and then at that point you can program The Glitch chip it just takes like two or three seconds and

Once it’s complete jrunner will tell you that it’s complete and it will give you a nice green light on the glitch chip meaning that it has been programmed so at this point the console is ready for glitching the chip is ready for glitching and to do its job so we need

To actually get it all wired up now for this here I ended up color coding my wires and I figured I would answer this because I had this asked a few times a few people have asked does it matter what color I’m using for my wires or is

That all aesthetic no it does not the wire color does not matter like you do not have to use black for ground or red for power I just ended up doing that here for the aesthetic and just because you know it’s easier to follow in this regard and because I had all these

Colors available but no that’s not that so I will say here this was one of my first mistakes I ended up wiring up a ground wire here don’t do this no don’t do this that is not I think I was looking at an image from another side or

Something at one point that might have been incorrect or now I know it’s incorrect but uh that was not a ground point so uh no I end up fixing that one up later however over here I ended up wiring up all the other wires that we

Needed here so this is where a majority of them go at least for a Corona if you’re doing one of these installs so since this is a 5 volt chip I ended up hooking up power into the 5 volt pad right here here I then also ended up

Using E and F because we are going to be doing i2c for this as opposed to PLL so we need the E and F pads so all I did was I just took some wires I hooked up green into the e-pad and then I hooked up brown into the F pad foreign

For what it’s worth as you can see here I did end up coming back later but I’ll pop it in here now directly next to the e-pad is where a ground is so you’re able to put four of these six wires real close right here

Now next up for our C point which is going to be post since I do not have a Corona version 1 or version 2 I needed a post-fix adapter now I already had one installed and do keep in mind it actually wasn’t even installed properly

I had to go back later on and reseat this and I ended up kind of having to push the push pin downwards itself like physically pushing it downwards a bit as I was installing it in and then I was finally able to make proper connectivity on all of this however this was simple

Enough once I got all set up here I just ended up going to one of these pads here that I made sure had connectivity I then hooked up a yellow wire to this and this was going to be for my C point so again this is just for post if you have a

Corona version one or version two you can use it natively on the bottom of the board I could not do that since I have a later revision Corona and lastly flipping the console over I ended up using the D Point here for CPU reset now typically I end up using the CPU reset

Point that is underneath the x-clamp where you have to slightly remove the x-clamp itself or just completely remove it and I’ll actually even show you all I actually originally used that point however I ended up going back later on and I ended up using this point here

Which is really close to a resistor I’ve never used this point specifically for the CPU reset but it seemed to do the job and work just fine plus if you’re doing your own install it does make it quite a bit easier because you no longer have to worry about removing the x-clamp

Itself so there we go we had all of the wires soldered into all the points and at this point we kind of just have to get them all to the glitch chip itself so I’d kind of found this area here that I felt like would be pretty suitable for

The glitch ship I know everybody kind of has their own spice and location of where they want to put a glitch ship I felt like this worked here pretty well so I end up taking these small bit of adhesive that was provided after I had cleaned up the area sufficiently I end

Up of course placing it down on the console itself then I took the glitch chip and pushed it down as firmly as I could onto the system so I was able to have easy access if I had to reprogram this or of course if I had to cleanly

Solder everything up here which I feel like I did not the best but I did an all right job managing my wires and such here so just going right down the line first of all I ended up doing the ground point where I kind of did a little bit

Of a thing where I was able to go kind of like underneath the chip itself from the pad and then I was able to kind of just come in on the side and I just soldered it in so I felt like that looked alright next up I end up doing

The 5 volts of power to actually give the chip some power foreign we have a long wire here for post so this just came from the post fix adapter and went right to the c-pad on the chip next up is e this is one of the i2c

Points that you need so just took this short wire well at least I had to shorten it down here and kind of get it onto the board itself and Tack it into the e-pad foreign next up is the other i2c point which is f did the exact same thing I came in

Here I shortened it and then I just end up tacking it to the glitch chip and then D this is the other long wire the CPU reset one now I felt like I probably could have shortened it a little bit more especially you know CPU reset is good to keep that short however

It certainly wasn’t nearly as bad as it could have been at the same time I just came from the bottom of the motherboard to the top came over here and I kind of just got it into a nice clean point and got it soldered into the chip foreign

About these points here but you are going to need to take some small bits of wire and then Bridge these two points here if you’re going to be doing anything on a slim Corona which involves i2c so since we are going to be doing srgh these are going to be a few pads

That you will need to bridge Foreign Let’s see how everything went you might be excited to see where this goes and I will tell you when I hooked up everything initially uh I would get a red dot immediately right off the bat I had a much longer section dedicated to the troubleshooting here but honestly I

Didn’t really have any good footage here so I’m going to keep it short and sweet octal was a huge help with this here in shorts there were two issues one of them being the wrong ground point so I ended up soldering this to the correct ground

Point which you can now see the next thing was that embarrassingly enough the postfix adapter was not seated properly once I was able to get it seated properly we were in business and sure enough once I plugged it into Power I end up seeing the red standby LED come

On but I did not see the green LED come on on the glitch chip but when I turned on the system the green LED started flashing crazy like and it was glitching and it was able to boot up successfully so I was able to get to Zell reloaded

Which was exactly what we needed so what I did also after I tried to turn it off and turn it back on a few times because I was in disbelief after just so much troubleshoot this took way too long you all this took me way too long to get to

This point but after so much time troubleshooting on this I was just in disbelief either way what I did was I took a ethernet cable I hooked it up to the back of my console so it was able to get onto the network and then I went

Into jrunner plugged in the local IP address grabbed the CPU key itself which was then finally able after way too long was finally able to decrypt the nand on the system itself so I ended up turning off the console because I had the information that I needed and then I

Hooked it back up to the X flasher and hooked the X flasher up to my computer from there I was able to select the latest dashboard version I end up building a glitch to image and this time around I end up building this for SMC plus which is recommended for RGH 1.2

And srgh installs so once I had SMC plus applied I ended up creating the XE belt image and then I was able to write the nand back over to the system meaning that I was finally able to actually have my modified system on Deck after it was

Written I then end up power cycling these systems so I disconnected power connected it back up also disconnected the X flasher from the computer and the console itself then I ended up turning on the system and I was able to get it to boot up as you can see now there’s

Nothing special here because there’s no hard drive plugged in so I don’t have any Homebrew here however as you can see I am able to go over to my games and I can go over to XCX menu and I’m able to launch XCX menu meaning that I can run

Homebrew meaning that I have officially reset glitched hacked this system so this was awesome after way way way way too long you all just after way too long finally had a third of this process complete I ended up doing the RGH itself on this system with srgh so that made me

Pretty happy now for what it’s worth for some final touches on the RGH side I did decide to end up going back to the glitch chip and I ended up reprogramming it a few times this is the glitch timing file that I ended up using for my own

System here it took me probably like four or five different files to see which one I felt like worked pretty well here at this point I noticed within one two maybe three Cycles it is consistently booting up and I do want to give a little piece of advice for

Anybody who is you know playing around with timing files on their glitch chip and such when you are doing your install it doesn’t really matter how long it takes to boot at the beginning when you’re doing the installation itself you just want to get it to glitch and boot

Up because you want to make sure that you can get the information you need and you can modify the system once the system has been modified what you want to do is you’ll want to take the motherboard itself plop it into the chassis even screw it in as well too for

Extra measure and then once it is in the chassis at that point you then go back and you play around with timing files to get the boot times pretty nice on there so what I’m saying here is don’t try and play around and fine tune the glitch

Timings and such while you are in the middle of the build wait until you are done with your build then partially rebuild your system mainly put it inside the chassis itself and then play around with the timings so there we go that’s all to say that the biggest portion I

Would say is now complete we now have the System modified with srgh next up we do now need to do dual nand well at least I need to because again I’m a weirdo I want dual nand on my system for this here there’s really three parts

That you’re going to need if you are going to be doing a more modern method here so you’re not going to be using something like a demon you’ll be using some that’s on the market such as the Viper version 2. for this here you’ll need of course the Viper version 2 by

You’re also going to need the corona adapter this here I guess you could wire up everything manually but I don’t want to do that I really don’t want to do that so I just recommend spend a few extra dollars you can pick up one of these Corona adapters you then also pair

That up with the Viper V2 and you essentially create a PCB sandwich when you are doing your dual Nan on a Corona now do keep in mind this only works for 16 megabyte Coronas this does not work for the four gigabyte Coronas unless you downgrade them to 16 megabyte so just

Keep that in mind for this now I do want to say here another big shout out I did want to shout out legend of rock 420 over for his really great guide in regards to this here now I’ve had some experience with the Viper installs because I’ve done one on my trendy

Before I also ended up previously doing one on a rgh3 system yes you did hear that right and there is a reason the main reason you can only do rgh3 with the Viper version 2 on a Corona just because that’s the only one that allows you to boot retail still without wiring

In place but either way I did want to have a couple shout outs here one for legend of rock 420 with his pretty darn great tutorial that he had written up on here and on top of that also element from the mod shop itself not only for really creating these tools here but

Also not for this install but a previous install I had picked his brain a little bit and you know he gave me some guidance and assistance in regards to that just so I knew how the Viper itself worked and such however Legend if you’re watching one you’re an awesome dude and

Two I I thought you should know that your guide was so good that the creator of these chips actually recommended it to me so just keep that in mind I hope that helps and I hope that puts a smile on your face either way this is what I

Ended up doing now since I’ve been working on the top of the motherboard this entire time I then ended up flipping the motherboard upside down and I ended up finding this area right here which is where the corona adapter in ends up going into you see on the

Trinity you can just put the Viper 2 itself just bare metal onto the motherboard but on the Corona you cannot do that you need the adapter and then you need to plop the Viper on top of it so what I end up doing is I found the

Area here and I ended up kind of moving it around and making sure it was in a good spot like this and then once you find exactly where it needs to go I would also highly recommend keeping this in place temporarily with some tape don’t worry we don’t need to keep the

Tape here don’t do anything permanent just yet we just need to put this in place and from here we then need to start anchoring it so I would recommend you know make sure the area is clean but then also take some flux take a bit of solder bring in your soldering iron and

Just start tacking in a few of these points once you end up tacking in a few of them or really even all of them here at this point I then ended up removing the tape itself here but I noticed kind of at the top or at the bottom however you’re

Looking at this of the corona adapter itself it was kind of floating off the board a little bit so what I did was on the opposite end of the corona adapter I end up physically pushing it down towards the motherboard and then I end up anchoring one or two more points

Again just with some flux and some solder so that way it was nice and flat and flush against the motherboard itself Foreign So there we go now that it’s anchored you can finish up the rest of your points and this here you’re just going to watch it’s pretty self-explanatory for the most part you really just go in here you see each point that needs to be soldered from the corona adapter itself

Onto the motherboard and you just go to each of those points take a little bit of flux dab it on there and then tack in a little bit of solder and if you are kind of questioning any of the points because you need to make sure double and

Triple check they are making good connections they have good joints between the board and the motherboard itself if you need to touch up any of these points you can go ahead and do that just either introduce new solder or just touch them up real quick with your soldering iron to make sure everything

Has flowed and heated up properly that’s what I ended up doing as well just to make sure that everything was all good because here’s the thing if you mess up one of these points here it’s going to be super annoying to get back to it because you have to remove the Viper to

Get back to this point so you might as well just do it right the first time as opposed to having to go back and redo it so awesome that was all good at this point here because we are going to pretty much kiss the sunlight goodbye in

Regards to this here the adapter it’s never really going to see anything again so make sure everything is nice and clean and with that this is where you want to clean a little bit just take something like Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol and clean up all of the points

Here incredibly well just clean them up super well this is really the cleaning you’re going to want to do at this point because you can’t come back to this specific adapter here so I made sure everything was super nice and clean right here and once it was clean I was

Then able to introduce the Viper version too and like I said it is essentially a PCB sandwich what you need to do is it’s pretty obvious how you need to set it up thankfully and again huge shout out and thank you to element for doing this here

It was this was a breezy install man but what you need to do is just make sure it lines up properly on top of the Corona adapter and you should see where all the pads on the Viper version 2 line up with the corona adapter itself and then maybe

The hardest part here because it’s going to be a little bit lopsided like the adapter is not big enough to end up supporting the entire Viper so you’re going to need to kind of awkwardly secure it down temporarily with some tape I guess what I did I kind of just

End up taping it only on the side and that was able to work but once you get it nice and flat and stable enough yet again you’re going to need to Anchor this down so what I did here was I actually went from the opposite side as

Opposed to doing all these small little points here I end up coming up to the top and I end up tacking in the 3v3 as well as ground points and once those were all good I then ended up doing the other smaller points right here again

These are all going to be super obvious they are marked but you’re going to clearly see the points on the Viper V2 that need to be tacked into the points on the adapter itself and it’s the exact same logic right here you’re going to need to make sure everything is clean

Then dab each of these with a little bit of flux and then introduce some fresh solder here and if there’s any points that you doubt you can easily go back and touch up on these points yet again Thank you So now that I felt like everything was pretty secure there’s now going to be these eight small points right here which I don’t know if I’ll just off my game or what but man I’ll tell you I was coming in here and I kept ended up

Bridging these points and I am going to show you all this it was a little bit frustrating but there’s a pretty easy way that you can fix that really if you end up bridging these points together what I recommend doing is make sure your soldering iron is still hot make sure

You have a very clean tip and then what you’re going to do is just very quickly just run between all the points incredibly quickly and what you’re able to do at that point is you’re then able to spread the solder across all of the pads right there and you end up

Separating it in the process and if it’s not separated just keep trying at it a little bit at a time very quickly with a clean tip until you’re able to get them separated so there you go as you can see I did not have to use any type of braid

I didn’t have to use any type of desoldering tools I end up just using a hot soldering iron however even with that lacking a little bit bit I was able to get all eight of these points right here and right there you’re all good to go so all the points that solder from

The Viper version 2 onto the corona adapter itself are now complete now we can work on the actual other points and pads on the Viper version 2 itself now here’s going to be one point that is super easy to miss so make sure you do

It here if you’re going to be doing this over on the corner of the Viper V2 you’re going to see two pads underneath J1 you just want to dab these with a little bit of flux and then solder them and Bridge them together so that J1 jumper is enabled

Next up you’re going to see these six points right here that you’re supposed to solder wires to since we’re doing this on a Corona we only need four of them don’t worry we’re still going to be doing six wires but we only need four of these pads here’s the thing we can

Completely ignore the 5V and Chip pads the ones that we do need to prepare are going to be SMC BTN LED and RB so there we go our Viper version 2 is completely prepared at this point so let’s go ahead and start working on the wires themselves so there’s going to be an

Area of the motherboard that you’re going to be looking for and it’s actually going to be one of the headers that you’ve already had to solder to before but this time we’re going to be on the bottom of the motherboard so there’s going to be three wires that you

Need to solder in here first of all we’re going to need ground so I’m just going to solder in a black wire for our ground point we’re also going to need power to the Viper itself so you’re going to find the 3v3 point and solder a

Red wire to that which is exactly what I did and finally we’re going to need the pad for SMC so it’s going to be this one just directly next to or underneath 3v3 just go ahead and solder a blue wire to this at least I ended up using a blue

Wire to denote this here so half of our wires are done that’s great next up there’s going to be a point that is going to be very closer pretty much underneath uh the South Bridge itself but it’s going to be next to one of the

Holes it’s going to be this R2 R1 point it’s quite small and this is going to be for RB so you’re just going to take a wire and solder into RB There we go we’re two-thirds of the way done so now there’s two more wires to solder in now we need to come to these pins right here which this is going to be on the bottom of the motherboard of course but these are all interfacing with the actual RF board itself and

We’re going to be soldering this into RF pin 13 right here this is going to be for the BTN or button pad so again for the button pad you’re just going to find pin 13 and solder it in right here Foreign now next up to make things a little bit easier for myself there’s also an LED that you have to solder to but as opposed to soldering to the RF board itself I wanted to use the pins right here so you can actually find this point

Over here and you can solder a wire up here and you’re going to solder the other end to the LED pad on the Viper version 2 itself however do keep in mind there is a slight modification you have to do for this here either way this is

Our final wire so this one here is going to be for the LED wire but real quick before I forget I’m going to show you all how you can make this led wire work and now there’s one part I forgot to show you all which is going to be an LED

You will need any LED color it doesn’t matter what color it is but you’re going to need a 0603 sized LED and you’re going to need to install it onto the actual RF board itself this is going to be to Signal which nand you have activated once you

Have the Dual name and operations all set up on the console itself so I’m gonna admit something to you all I absolutely hate soldering in small LEDs like this I really don’t like doing it I am not a fan of it but I’ll show you

What I did for the most part here so what you’ll need to do is take your RF board and you’re going to need to find one of the negative points now I like to use the first quadrant right here and for the negative points you can just look at the already existing LEDs

Themselves and the negative points for the LEDs are going to be where the white circles are silk screened so you see that there is a white circle to the right of this led here that means that that is the negative pad so here you’re

Now going to have to do a little bit of damage and scrape away at this what I did was I took an X-Acto Knife and I end up just scraping away the grounding here to end up revealing this and see what we could actually work with on the actual

RF board itself so you’re just going to need to scrape away a little bit like this I’d recommend don’t go absolutely crazy but give yourself a nice healthy amount to work with here something like this will do just fine and then from there once you have it nice and scraped

Away you can then go in here with some Iceberg alcohol and some Q-tips make sure it’s nice and clean then bring in some flux introduce some solder so you have a nice base to work with and then at this point you now need to bring in a

Zero six zero three LED now lucky for me I was actually able to keep this all consistent you see the Halo 4 system has white LEDs on it and I had white LEDs on Deck so I end up just adding this here so it still ends up looking blue at the

End once everything is all installed for this the way I remember it is flip the LED upside down and the pointy side so the side that this symbol is pointing towards is going to be pointing to the negative side then once you flip it right side up you can then just come

Here and Tack it in now I do want to show you all my left-handed soldering skills here because I was a little bit proud of this what I did with my right hand was I end up taking some tweezers I held it in place and then my left hand I

Came in here real quick with my hot soldering iron and a little bit of solder at the end of it and I ended up just tacking onto this side and we’re all good however spoiler alert that’s all to say that that doesn’t really matter all too much because as I was

Getting the wire soldered in for this I end up accidentally ripping the LED off so I had to just throw that led away grabbed another LED and then plopped it on there it was it was like everything that could have gone wrong with this system ended

Up going wrong however as you can see I was able to get the negative side of this led soldered into the negative scrape that I had created and then for the positive side you’ll just want to do the exact same thing you can go ahead and prepare this with some flux with

Some solder and then just take a small piece of wire I use 30 gauge wire like single core like solid core wire for all of this but I end up taking a piece of 30 gauge wire I end up soldering it to the end here and this is going to be the

Important part when you come down to this section of the RF board itself you’re going to solder in the other end of that wire right here that is going to connect to the positive end of the new LED that you have installed and on top of that that is what’s going to allow

The mod that we did to work alternatively what you would normally need to do is solder in the LED pad from the Viper V2 over to the positive point on the new LED we installed however like I said I I really don’t like running a

Wire from the board to the RF board so therefore this is how you’re able to do this so we are all done with our RF board successfully modified everything should be working once we have it installed so we don’t have to worry about the RF board now that the RF board

Is completed let’s go back over to the motherboard and wrap up the Dual nand so this is going to be the interesting thing here right typically when you install the Viper into a trinity you are as I said souring it directly onto the motherboard itself so you’re tapping

Directly into ground and 3.3 volts however we don’t have that capability here so what you’re going to need to do is solder in those two points directly now we’ve already prepared all the wires so what you want to do is take your 3v3 volt wire so the red wire and just

Solder into the 3.3 volt pad or area on the actual Viper version 2 itself since we can’t tack it into that directly we have to bring it over to the chip itself once 3v3 is done you’re going to do the exact same thing with the black ground

Wire just grab that wire make sure it is cut accordingly and solder it into the gnd point or pad on the Viper version 2 itself so now let’s work on getting all the wires installed to the rest of the pads what I’m going to do here is take

My purple wire which is for RB I’m going to of course trim and strip it accordingly and then solder it up into the RB pad on the Viper V2 so there we go next up we’re going to do the exact same thing with LED this is going to be

A pretty long wire so the exact same thing here just measure it out make sure it is cut accordingly stripped and then go ahead and solder into the LED pad right next to LED since we did our mod for that we’re going to grab the button

Wire so it’s going to be the one that was soldered into pin 13 just grab that other one for me I ended up using green and I actually end up accidentally measuring it properly here but what I did here was just make sure it was stripped properly and then I soldered it

Into the BTN or button pad on the Viper and finally we need SMC reset so it’s going to be the blue wire that I soldered in earlier I’m just going to grab that wire make sure it is cut and stripped accordingly and then solder into SMC foreign there we go for this specific

Configuration we are all done now I do mention that here because I have not covered it but this here was specific for 5 volt glitch chips which is what the ace version 3 is however if you have a 3v3 such as something like a matrix or

A cool runner it’s going to be a little bit different so just keep that in mind if you want to go ahead and refer to legend of rock 420’s guide on that if you are using a 3v3 volt chip but this here specifically works for a 5 volt

Chip so now with all that completed we can go ahead and make sure everything works well hold on I end up cleaning everything here so what I did because I was gonna you know have this on my desk and such I end up going in and I went to

All the points that I soldered to really on the Viper and on the motherboard itself and just took some isopropyl alcohol Q-tips and clean them up as best as I could once I had everything cleaned up I then went over and decided to hook up the console to power and to TV now

You’re able to tell this works because when you plug it in if everything was done successfully that new LED you installed should blink one time that means that the first nand is activated which is the Viper V2 so if the Viper V2 is activated you are all good however if

You try to turn on the system don’t panic when you realize that absolutely nothing is happening right now you can’t do anything because the nand is blank and you can’t do anything with nothing but what you can do is hold down the sync button for two seconds it should

Blink two times now meaning that the second nand is activated which is the onboard system nand which is the side that we’ve already modified you can now turn on the system and if it boots up successfully that means that the Viper V2 is working as expected however we

Need this to actually be populated with something so what you can do is turn off the system hold down the sync button for two seconds so it goes back to the first nand and then hook up your nand flasher to the console Soul into your computer itself it has been recommended to flash

The same nand that you have over here so I’m actually just going to take my upd flash which is the modified side here and just flash it over to the Viper V2 element had recommended this to me before just so you can test and verify that the Viper is actually working but

This is not going to be how it will work in the end so all I did was write the nand over to here and so I now have the same nand written twice on both sides of the system but what we can do now is test it so I then disconnected the

Flasher from my computer and from the console itself unplugged it from Power plugged it back in we end up getting one blink and I turn it on and sure enough the console is able to glitch it was able to boot up properly showing that the Viper version 2 nand is working

Successfully and sure enough if I turn off the system hold the sync button for two seconds wait for it to Blink twice and turn it on the nand is now working on the console itself however this is not what we want we do do want two different nands on the system not just

The identical one written over twice so what I can do now is turn off the system and completely power cycle it or just flip back over to the first nand and now we’re going to write retail to it typically for most people the ideal use I guess or intended use for this is

Going to be the first hand will have retail the second nand will be modified that’s how I’m going to use it there’s no right or wrong way to do it but that’s the order of operations I’m going to use so what you can do is make sure

Nand1 is activated and then go back over to jrunner now I did end up making a copy of the upd flash file and I ended up renaming it because this is going to get recompiled and it will be overwritten once that is copied and renamed we can go back over to jrunner

And this time around we’re still going to do the latest dashboard but we’re going to select retail and we’re going to make this a clean SMC and then what you’ll need to do is build a XE build image which is going to be the retail nand and then and Flash it over to

Whichever side you want in my case I’m going to flash it to the first nand which is going to be the Viper once that has been flashed over you can then disconnect the Flasher yet again from the console and your computer unplug the system plug it back in and when you get

One blink you can turn on the system when you turn on the system it should just boot up normally here but this should be a completely retail side which is exactly what I wanted right here so this is great I even tested this here by going over to games with my USB drive

And I couldn’t find XCX menu but sure enough if I go over to settings and go into storage and go to game demos it shows up as corrupted media which ironically is exactly what I want because that means that this is a retail nand and that is what I want I can now

Turn off the system then hold down the sync button for two seconds it will then blink twice and I can boot the system back up at this point now it is going to be booting up into a modified nand so I can test this by going over to games or

Of course going back over to the system settings storage game demos and I can find XCX menu right there in all of its Glory meaning that this is a modified nand that I can run Homebrew on so at this point here we’re now two-thirds of the way done this system is pretty close

To being done now this is getting close to what I’ve wanted but we now have a dual Nan system operating successfully the other thing I want here is the ability to play my backup games on here on either side whether it be retail side or whether it be on the modified side

From disk so what I’m going to do is now Flash the DVD drive unfortunately you cannot do that for the 16 d5s these drives the slim Hitachi drives and the dg16d5s light on drives for the slim cannot be flashed so if you want to flash them what you actually have to do

Is install one of these here which is a unlocked ltu2 PCB you then have to build a firmware for it flash it over and install it in the system well you have to install it first but the point is here you do need to do this and in order

To do all of this you have to RGH the system so doing it in this order of operations was necessary for this here you actually need jrunner for this you need to plug in your nand make sure that you can decrypt it and then you need to

Go over to nand and click on extract files and it will be able to extract all of these sensitive files of the nand itself two of the files that you actually need in order to build out your custom firmware for your drive however for the drive firmware itself we do need

To install the PCB into the drive so what I am doing here is I’m just going in and again using the microscope but I’m going in here and I have opened up my DVD drive now it’s not too hard to swap these over here however I do

Recommend you really really do need some tweezers for this because these wires are like cut ideally perfectly to length and you cannot fit your fingers in there uh either way what you can do here is make sure you take part of the drive at least get the back cover off and then

Release the three ribbons that are holding the drive in place there’s also going to be a couple of tabs that you’re going to need to release and there’s going to be one screw but there’s also going to be these five wires and for these here all you really need to do is

Take your hot soldering iron tap each point for a few seconds and then lift up and remove each of these wires from the PCB itself once all of that has been done you can then free your old PCB and then you can take your nice new ltu2 PCB

And go ahead and install this in backwards it is going to take a little bit of finagling to physically put it in place but what you can do is make sure it pops into place properly make sure it tabs back in you can then take your

Screw and screw that back in then take the three ribbons that you had released and attach them to this board itself and lastly there’s going to be these five of wires that you have to solder in here so this here I would say was actually the hardest soldering ironically enough I

Actually haven’t run into this but you’re just going to see right here what I did was I took a little bit of flux paste I applied it to these Five Points here on the PCB but you’ll see that when I heat up these pads and I introduce the

Solder it just doesn’t flow well for whatever reason it does not flow very well it just doesn’t look good and if you’ve been watching the video up until this point you can see that I didn’t have any issues with all the other stuff but these pads here in particular for

Some reason the solder just wasn’t flowing quite right I did kind of have to just manually move it around on the pads themselves but we were able to make it work is what I’m saying from here though you just take your tweezers and you’re going to work backwards and you

Know having the odd solder pads right there it made it a little bit more difficult but it’s really just going to be the same logic you’re just going to heat up each solder pad and then take each respective wire held with a pair of tweezer and get it soldered into place

And as you can see here there is barely any room you really have to work with you pretty much have little to no wiggle room so that’s why I really recommend here you really do need the tweezers but I was able to successfully get all five

Of the wires in place so at this point here the drive has physically been modified and our work here is done so you can now go ahead close up the drive put all the screws back in place and we’re now going to need to hook it up to

A computer with jungle flasher because right now this drive is blank so it’s not going to be able to do anything I didn’t do any physical recording of my gear here but I did end up doing a screen capture so this is what I ended up doing alright so uh since the last

Time I flashed one of these drives I’ve upgraded from Windows 10 to Windows 11 on my main desktop and uh it’s introduced some more issues I just don’t really want to figure out troubleshooting so I’m showing you all my secret weapon right here which is my

Laptop that I got 12 years ago that has Windows 7 on here and as you can see there’s pretty much nothing on here I just have this dedicated as this is pretty much just a dry flashing laptop at this point because I I nuked it and I

Set it up like this a few years ago and whenever I need to flash a drive I pull this thing out and typically if I’m not able to do it on my main desktop I can do it here yeah I know I could accomplish the same thing pretty easily

On a VM uh I just haven’t set up a VM at this point but I still have this laptop here so it’s all good however thankfully I always keep this thing in test mode and since I never really like do anything or connect to the Internet or

Any of that fun stuff the X360 USB Pro V2 is hooked up uh so we are all good to go at that point let me go ahead and uh I had a copy over some stuff I end up getting uh jungle flasher itself uh I

Got I have 0.95 on whoa 0.1.95 on here but I end up copying the latest one which was 0.1.96 so let’s go ahead and fire this thing up and this is cool right I I bet I’m showing something here while I’m recording this in 2023 that uh can’t

Really be done on uh many other things and I’m not talking about the drive flashing I’m talking about these old ads that you’re gonna see on the side uh the at one point in the past when I used jungle flasher on this computer uh all of these ads were still up and running

The sites were up and running so they are just kind of forever cached on this drive until it ever goes bad or I format it or what have you uh but either way the X360 USB Pro is detected it is running the latest 0.20 firmware so we

Will be able to flash over a 16d5s but there’s no Drive detected because I haven’t powered it up yet so let me go ahead and I’m going to supply external power to the drive I’ve now powered the X360 USB Pro I’m going to power cycle this and actually I just realized it’s probably

Going to say there’s no Drive detected still because there is a the the drive board is blank there’s nothing on here it doesn’t know what to do so admittedly I’m going to have to see what all to do here because flashing these drives is a little bit it’s a little bit odd and

Actually let me set up the firmware on here real quick so yeah that would be important this is what I need to do I need to open up the target firmware I’ll go over to the Jungle flasher directory firmware uh the one I am looking for it is

Ltu2 and I just don’t remember which one it is so while I’m doing this on the side on my main desktop I’m gonna have to have a document open and for anybody wondering what firmware I’m gonna have if you get jungle flash or one cool thing they did in the documentation here

Uh they had this entire big PDF here so I’m just going to be looking at that on the side all right so this is what I was thinking here we’re gonna go to which one is it ltu2 we’re gonna get the 1175 there we go so that is Executor ltu2

1175 ltu22 version 1.0 and the osig is plds dg16d5s 1175 which is exactly what we need now this is the hidden thing you need to right click this and you need to where is it key CR that’s what you need to click so there’s these two files and

Remember at one point when I extracted these from the nand well that’s what I need here there we go we have both uh the key and the CR for this and I’ve learned this the hard way you can’t just take the key file and like manually flash it quite literally if you build

This firmware without the CR dot bin it just won’t be able to play any games and such so we gotta hit OK and uh it it’s thinking it’s thinking really hard and here we go it’s giving us a file to work with so I’m going to call this uh

Ltu to CFW just something like that’s fine and safe and there we go we have this all locked and loaded in here so our firmware is all ready to go at this point all right so here’s the fun thing that I didn’t quite remember 100 but this is apparently the order we’re

Supposed to do things to get this to work so again the X360 USB Pro it has to be on the latest version 0.20 firmware which is why I highlighted that before uh but we need to hit intro device ID but here’s the thing there’s fat there’s slim there’s slim two you’re gonna be

Tempted to pick slim no you’re supposed to pick fat for this I I know I know it it goes against what we’re thinking uh but you’re supposed to hit fat and from what I’ve seen as well you’re also supposed to turn off the drive so that’s

What I’m doing uh this worked for me before I physically turned the drive off I’m hitting intro device ID gonna wait for this to do its thing and we’re going to hit yes so it’s now rescinding the vendor command I’m going to turn the drive on there we go it is

In 0.72 and there we go we have it in Vendor mode that is beautiful that is exactly what we need and at this point here again the drive is in Vendor mode we have everything set up 0x72 is our status our firmware is right here everything is loaded up within the

Firmware tool so that is important and right here it looks like we can just hit right so it’s doing its thing take a look at that it is writing to bank zero one two three and then it’s going to verify all four of those Banks so there’s our verification test

This is trust me uh this probably looks pretty easy right now but I went through a lot of troubleshooting last year to get this all to work properly and then at this point we can now hit outro ATA reset so let’s do that and would you look at that we have the plds

Dg16d5s we have all this stuff and as best practice from back in the day they always said you know do outro ATA reset twice just in case so thankfully if you have everything in place this is a two-step process we just did the first step there now the Second Step we’re

Going to lock the drive itself I’ll explain while we’re doing that so again I physically turned off the drive I’m going to hit fat I’m going to hit intro device ID wait a little bit the funny thing is too this laptop has a DVD drive so whenever I do anything significant in

Jungle flasher I can hear the internal drive resetting I’m going to hit yes and turn on the drive we’re at 51 so off on off on might have to do this a few times there we go all right as you can see it took like 10 times to do that but we’re

Now in Vendor mode so now at this point we’re going to lock the drive uh the reason why we’re doing this here is because these Drive boards come as unlocked now technically I think I could pop this into my RGH and it’ll work just

Fine uh but it was always a thing of if you’re going to be using this and have it live safe and everything you need to re-lock the drive and since there’s going to be a retail side on this I do want to re-lock the drive here just to

Have it you know be all standard and such so for this we’re already in Vendor mode I’m going to hit 0x00 and here we go this is intended for the uh check this out both of these pcbs although it’s fine we’re doing the d5s you should not attempt to lock a fat

Light on doing so you will erase this uh okay we’re good and there we go our SPI status is now 0x8c which means it is locked and now at this point we can do outro ATA reset and there we go we’re all good and we can do it one more

Time outro ATA reset and as you can see I mean right here this part probably looks like the easiest part out of everything but uh there was a lot of trouble shooting to get to this point so I think we’re done with three out of three mods on this so

Far uh that’s awesome you know we did the srgh we did the Dual nand and now we did the uh Drive swap here and we flashed it so now as you can see for our final piece here I’m able to take a backup game that I have burned and

Backed up and patched properly not specifically in that order but the point is I can now do that I can take that disc I could pop it into the DVD drive and it successfully works on both the retail side and the modified side so at this point here we’re three for three we

Have srgh door nand and a flash DVD drive in a Halo 4 system which is exactly what I have wanted now would have been the exact mod I wanted no in all honesty it would have been nice to be able to do rgh3 on here but my own

Fault there I had some mess ups on there but the point is this system has frustrated me so much it has been laughing just silently in the corner laughing at me and I have finally annihilated and done everything I wanted to on it plus srgh is booting quite nice

On here thankfully so I think we’re all good on that now one other thing that I did was unfortunately I did notice that this system wasn’t really treated well in its past life so after I did all this I actually waited a few days because I took all the Plastics ripped them apart

Ended up giving them a nice bath in soap and warm water and really clean them up really well I don’t know what was happening beforehand to this system I didn’t take any before pictures but it looks like someone really scuffed and scratched up while also trying to feed

It a Hot Pocket at one point through either the fan great or the USB ports thankfully everything works on the system that’s really cool but it certainly was not in the best shape and it’s it’s it looks it looks okay now but at least it’s clean thankfully so either

Way this is now my system like this is going to be my a personal system that I enjoy and I play games on and it is going to replace the previous one that I had which was actually a srgh dual Nan Trinity system that I worked on several

Years ago in kind of a collaboration review type thing with the mod shop he had sent over that old system he sent over the glitch ship to me and it was really to do an install video and a review of the Viper version one at that point however the Viper version 2 is

Nicer it’s great and I’m able to replace my system with more mod shot Parts systems so that’s cool so that is about it for this video I hope you all enjoyed it I hope you all got to maybe learn something just be entertained overall this was a fun build

To do even though it was tiring even though there was so much troubleshooting I had to do on this thing uh but ideally this is now at the point where this is the system that I have wanted I know for the original Xbox for example some people they really love the Mountain Dew

Xbox and they like their dream is to get one of those and then mod it up and do all the other fun crazy things with it this was pretty much my dream here this is the ideal system that I wanted I wanted the Halo 4 system I wanted those

Nice blue looking LEDs I wanted this nice case here I wanted the weird sounds that it makes like this is what I wanted so I’m quite happy this is quite literally again stressing this here this is my system that I’m going to be using

This will be the one that is in my game room for anybody who is wondering so I think that’s about it that was a fun install I I’m so glad I have this done now in all honesty I’m so glad it’s done so really feels like I kind of got

Something off my chest here now but either way that’s about it for this video if you made it to the end seriously thank you all so much it has been much appreciated for you like hanging out and just with all of this I really hope you enjoyed it if you did a

Like would absolutely be appreciated show your appreciation there that would be great if you didn’t like it and dislike is fine as well too maybe I should have done rgh3 maybe I shouldn’t have screwed it up in the first place but you know what it’s done now the

System is liberated it’s upgraded it’s dual nanded it’s flashed it is it’s a good system now anyways again that’s about it for this video here but as I always say this is Mr Mario signing off thank you all for watching everyone Thank you