The Price of Watches Is Not Everything! Watch MOVEMENT Macros and Luxury Watches Reviewed

Rolex owns almost the entire mindshare of the watch market. Well, everything except movement finish, detail, and sheer beauty. Rolex movements are functional and finished to a mid-market level, but tonight’s show goes for broke with the Philippe Dufour Simplicity as you’ve never seen it: extreme detail! If you love luxury watch movements, tonight’s show is for you.

The Philippe Dufour Simplicity debuted in 2000 — initially as a special inspired by the Japanese market. From 2000 to 2020, Philippe Dufour, the watchmaker on the dial, crafted a handful of watches per year to satisfy his sprawling waitlist of potential clients. With perhaps ten to twelve watches made per year, the Simplicity is one of the rarest and most sought modern watches. Tonight’s show features one of the earliest examples of the Simplicity — one of the first ten, in fact. The guilloche dial, welded-lug case, and immaculately decorated movement do justice to the reputation of master watchmaker Philippe Dufour.

Additional watch movement macros come in the form of watches from A. Lange & Sohne, De Bethune, MB&F, and Patek Philippe. Tim shares the Richard Lange Pour le Merite and its outstanding combination of a disappearing dial, tourbillon with hacking seconds, fusee and chain, and Seyffert scale regulator dial. The De Bethune DB28 Tourbillon Deadbeat Seconds thrills with its exotic technology. MB&F’s HM7 Aquapod combines the aesthetic of a jellyfish with the functions of a dive watch. Finally, the Patek Philippe 5520P proves that a travel time alarm watch might be the most useful complicated watch in history.

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Welcome back this is our first episode of the year I’m Tim moso this is watchbox Studios at the 1916 company Sean’s on the switcher we have a live studio audience and guys it is great to be back this evening we jump into watch movements we bust luxury watch m

And I share your wrist shots as well as the Philipe dufor Simplicity like you’ve never seen it before all right guys if you enjoy this program the official Afterparty is and will always be my Instagram 51,000 strong join our army of adherence one minute videos it’s a stripped down version of my YouTube

Video you learn everything you need to know when I post the best watches on the platform including examples that are not publicly listed on our website so check me out on Instagram where I am Tim _ maso we have Edward Len In The Box from Sweden Deb and Mick in Florida Mark s

From Brooklyn Watches with Dennis from Kansas Michael from Manhattan we got William B Matteo C we got greetings from Montana John Goodman and Vincent hello from Geneva staying up late with us in Continental Europe I appreciate that Aaron s arto charl Christopher H and Tim

Manuso I see you in there all right guys viewer shots number one instant gratification Jonathan of South Florida leads off with my personal favorite the PK 5235g regulator Sanford b rolls from home or rolls home I should say from his office in Beverly Hills with his Bentley Continental and Vashon constant overseed

Toron skeleton the overseas toron skeleton a Bentley that’s the flex of the night okay Richard C of Florida shares a rare site with his Vashon Harmony dual time we don’t see that model line too often alanar is a man after my own heart with his 1976 roll x sub and

1962 Porsche 356 watches and wheels I love them Tac oow is in maati Bay on the Red Sea with his BL PA 50 Fathoms baos scaff Chrono that is our nature shot of the night guys senous shouts to Monday mailbag at thewatchbox.com to see your

Wrist on my list okay let’s go hands- on with some watches guys what’s the point of being in a building full of inventory if you never get to show it off so let’s jump straight to a watch that represents the best of the best from gluta from

Glass hut Germany we have the alangu unona ziter minute repeater now what I’m going to do is I’m going to fire it up so that you can hear the Chimes but also see the jump see how it knows not to jump the time until it’s done changing so not only is

It an instantaneous digital display but it is smart enough to avoid changing the time display and breaking itself while the chime is active now this is a decimal repeater which is very unusual by the standards of minute repeaters because only a few have been made over

The years so Chimes the hours the tens of minutes after the hour and then the minutes after the last tens of minutes you can also see black polished Strikers circumferential gongs and because they drive the repeater off the main spring Barrel that little red dot represents

The no-go point at which it will no longer chime flip it all over it’s what you expect from longa blazing German silver stainless steel blued screws Violet pivot jewels you’ve got an enormous barrel with enough torque in there to put your eye out we’ve got the second locking lever that buffers the

Jump of the time from the remontoire system which is two third Wheels sandwiched around a hairspring every minute this little locking mechanism unlocks and transfers one minute’s worth of energy to that hairspring and then that hairspring is what directly drives the escapement so you don’t have to

Worry about the huge surge of torque and energy from the barrel damaging the delicate so it is a constant force device digital jumping time and a decimal repeater do I have to tell you it’s beautiful I hope not okay we’re going to stick with lunga because hey we

Got a good thing going let’s talk about a model that originally came out in 2011 but as you see it here 2014 which means it is the Richard longa Po larit torban in white gold now 41.9 mm it’s got a sterling silver dial it’s a Johan cord

Scale so you want to say it’s a ven diagram but actually the triple overlapping scales are y Johan seerz doing take a look at this hacking seconds toron but let me blow your mind right here if you don’t need the numerals it will not show the numerals and so you have an

Unobstructed view of the toron until you need to see the time and so it will retract and extend that panel as necessary the dial is made of sterling silver flip it all over poor marit you know what this means at longa it means a fuse and chain so you just saw the

Remontar constant force device on the ziter but longa has both of the most common constant force mechanisms poar means fuse and chain and you could see as I wind it it winds to the fuse a from the barrel you could see I’ll show you to the best of

My ability there is a little chain in there that is 1/2 of a millimeter thick 15 cm long and strong enough to vertically suspend 2 kg now as the barrel runs down it pulls a larger diameter of the fuse which works like bicycle gearing as the main spring loses

Torque it gains mechanical advantage through the fuse a maintaining constant force and take note the Capstone underneath the tbon assembly is a brilliant cut diamond not synthetic real this little monster is probably the most featured dense sub 42mm watch I’ve ever seen now we’re going to keep running

Because I have a spe acular potek Philipe that might be the most practical watch in the collection launched in 2019 this is the 5520p now what really sets this apart is that it’s it’s well loomed it’s really well loomed it is a dual time and it is an alarm with a 24-hour format

Alarm and so this watch right here which you can see is a spectacular little mechanism like the Pilot’s watch and then on the reverse side you can see that it has has a broad movement properly sized for its case and you can see on the dial side it

Has a radial date it also has two 12-hour hands superimposed so when you don’t need that second time zone you can close it up and clear it out and the movement features a minute repeater style Striker on its reverse side actually it sounds just like a minute

Repeater right down to the use of a centrifugal Governor a very very impressive watch probably of the watches I’m going to show you tonight this is the one I most wish I owned really very special what a machine can’t quite get over that one but I will also say this

That if you want something that’s just stupidly fun and spectacular it’s hard to beat a watch that won’t even fit on my macro camera launched in 2017 its initial form and in 2018 as you see it right here this is the mbn hm7 aquapod it looks like a jellyfish it also looks

Like a dive watch it is a flying torban a 3-day power reserve and you can see on the bottom the Platinum tendrils of the winding rotor energize the manufacturer caliber inside now there’s two crowns one for setting one for winding and you read the time down at the base so you

Can see right here it is now 7:25 now it is 7:30 now I’m going to advance all all the way to 8:00 it is spectacularly luminescent with loom from black Badger and we have this wonderful safire capped bezel that allows you to use it as a reference it’s not a true

Dive watch though it is swimmable and it is absolutely massive at 53.5 MM across though it does wear fairly compact on the wrist and because I know you’re not going to believe me unless you see it let me jump in throw it on my wrist I’ve had football players complain to me that

This watch looks like it’s going to fit them and then it turns out to be designed for a skinny guy which is true so taking a look on the wrist you can see this does in fact fit again not a dive watch but dive watch inspired it is nevertheless swimmable and superbly

Loomed okay finally this is one from the house brand you know that for the last two years we have been the owners of debaton watchbox loved the company so much we bought it now this is a 2012 model year launch db28 which means it’s got the signature spring-loaded floating

Variable geometry lugs but it’s got a lot more this the db28 toron deadbeat now the tbon as you can see is down at 6:00 it’s like a zenithal prero so 10 beats per second 36,000 vibrations per hour you can also see it’s a double speed toron 30 seconds per circuit

Rather than 1 minute and it’s made of white gold silicon and titanium making it the world’s lightest torban at 18800 of a gram now look just above that you can see two solid gold Escape wheels and a second locking lever so we have five Hertz down here one Hertz up here it’s

One of the very few debaton watches with both Center seconds and hacking seconds and you can see two 14 karat gold Escape Wheels make it possible 14 karat gold is the standard for mechanical gold that will be used on Wheels and levers because of its hardness the thinnish you

Can see is world class it gives up nothing and the power Reserve in spite of a tbon and a deadbeat is 4 days and you can track it through the little power Reserve indicator that turns from red to Silver as you wind at 6:00 very very special all right lots of fun there

Let’s jump back into the box and see what you guys are saying clinical decision hello from SoCal you know I’m glad to see that guys Richard Warren saying more people need to understand the Brilliance of Tim moso I I wouldn’t claim Brilliance but at least persistence I’ve been doing this now for

Nine years and then Stuart saying that watch looks like LAX it does look like the old terminal at LAX very very true and then we have Michael D saying a UFO for the wrist and Rick on watch is our good friend Rick from Chicago happy to

See in there pizza man checking in from Minnesota we finally have some snow here I would have thought you’d have it a lot sooner but hey these are warmer days and warmer times we’ve got pach Pete watch collector saying love the db28 and Yen joining in from Frankfurt okay guys

Let’s talk about busting six luxury watch myths and they are persistent the last decade in my life has been devoted solely to expanding the depth and breadth of the luxury watch hobby as a Time piece retailer my goal has been to break down barriers both real and perceived that stand between watch

Enthusiasts and their Dream Machines while practical limits do emerge as prices and Rarity escalate the path to luxury watch ownership often is shorter and more straightforward than many expect here with I debunk six common myths about luxury watch collecting starting with this myth young people don’t care about luxury watches and the

Hubby is doomed this sounds a lot like the young people don’t like cars myth that I see in the watch Community but let’s examine it reality never in the history of watches have so many young people aspired to ownership of a premium time piece at a recent panel discussion

In Dubai I was asked by a man in his 30s probably early 30s about the imminent demography driven demise of luxury watches mechanical watches aside from highlighting the irony of a young watch collector making this claim I noted that the audience for the event was dominated

By people in their 20s 30s and 40s technology makes it possible so follow me here my formative years as a watch Enthusiast teenager in the ’90s were frustrated by the fact that most of the hobby took place offline among old men in Europe and Asia very little online information existed today the internet

Makes discovering researching and shopping watches easy from almost anywhere by enthusiasts of any age my primary YouTube channel remember guys I’ve got two now contains over 7,300 individual watch reviews it features a critical mass of young viewers a 61.3% of my 65,000 viewers a day are

Between 18 and 44 years old blogs such as hodinky a Blog to watch monochrome and fella watches are dominated by writers in this demographic despite publishing over 10,000 reviews dozens of interviews hundreds of live streams on social media even I am still in the tail end of my 30s finally the number of

Young people working on the technical side of the hobby is surging well veteran watchmakers can and do practice until they drop dead at their benches the modern face of watchmaking is a Generation Z or Millennial often female who received her first exposure to the trade online veteran watchmakers like fpj

Philipe dufor and Daniel Ral continue to apply their trades but a quick tour of the workshops at the major brands reveals how many technical roles are now served by Young Artisans at the highest level which is independent fabrication and watchmaking rette Rey now in his mid-30s stands as the hottest Indie

Watch maker of the last half decade so guys no young people love watches they’re not going away myth luxury watches are more accurate timekeepers after all they cost more reality cheap watch watches often keep better time than luxury watches first most cheap watches employ quartz timing circuits While most luxury watches employ

Mechanical Regulators although a luxury quartz watch Niche does exist most quartz watches are neither serviceable nor expensive despite this even cheap quartz watches can achieve monthly variants as low as 15 seconds now in comparison the exacting ISO 3159 chronometer standard for outstanding mechanical watches specifies no more

Than -4 plus 6 seconds of variation per 24 hours well some mechanical watches can beat the chronometer standard and even match the accuracy of a cheap quartz watch quartz watch is accurate to between 1 and 5 seconds per day or part pardon me per year 5 Seconds a day is a

Mechanical chronometer 5 seconds per year is this Washi dial citizen a very impressive timekeeper and keep in mind this is a watch that’s priced in orus territory now radio watches that receive regular updates from atomic clocks can vary by only fractions of a second per year about 1 second per Century with a

Cium atom atomic clock no mechanical watch can match that guys the best way to evaluate accuracy in mechanical watches is to measure them against their own kind mechanical watches like the fpj chronomat optimum the gral 4C double tbon 30° and the brega class chronometry 7727 employ bold engineering and novel

Mechanisms that embody the state-of-the-art in mechanical watchmaking craft as an analogy note that Kentucky breed Thoroughbred racehorses remain a billion dooll industry despite the existence of far- faster racing Tech in Formula 1 in NASCAR as with race horses and race cars traditional watches need to be cross referenced against others of their kind

Rather than compared to the most modern technology available moreover outstanding luxury timekeeping doesn’t have to be prohibitively expensive to acquire CC certified chronometers out of Switzerland are available for well under $5,000 there well under $2,000 more sophisticated chronometers built on the Omega coaxial and the Rolex croner G

Escapement systems can be had for under $10,000 new and pre-owned let’s see what’s going on in the Box Thomas berett in here Dad can I borrow the watch Luke Watson Junior Johnson Mason 1 we we’ve got Erin Eric our watch friend from Germany and we’ve got Mr Paradigm all

Right guys welcome and thank you for joining us I always see your names in there even if I can’t shout you all out individually I appreciate every one of you okay myth luxury watches require expensive service every 2 years reality although many Brands continue to quote the 24mon figure modern watches rarely

Require such frequent detention luxury watch service is expensive anticipate three figure charges in US dollars for simple watches that retail for under 10,000 expect four figure service charges for complicated watches or those that retail for over 10,000 that said 5 to 10 years is the typical service interval for modern watch Major Brands

Such as Omega and Rolex now offer 5-year warranty thanks to the precedent set by these Bell weather manufacturers 5 years is becoming an industry standard this is a good cue regarding service intervals because because no watch should require a complete overhaul to ensure its function while still under warranty if

Warranty is 5 years there’s no question and no reason the watch should need service at least every 5 years never at least every two even when it gets to be decades old that still obtains service your watch every 5 to 10 years moreover Rolex I’m not spilling any beans here

This is from their website has said that their guidance is for a 10year service interval under correct usage conditions so 10 years is pretty impressive and that’s going to save you an awful lot of money versus servicing your watch five times in that period so 5 to 10 is the

Real deal also many electry watch brands owned by wristwatch Powerhouse richmont group now offer 8-year warranties orus a medium-sized brand that serves the entrylevel price point of the elect Tre Market offers 10year warranties on many of its affordable watches finally modern manufacturing techniques greater Precision in manufacturing and synthetic

Lubricants like that lovely can of escapement Grease obviate the diva like maintenance requirements that applied to watches for most of the 20th century were’re in a different time and a different world if a collector has qualms about allowing 5 to 10 year intervals between service local watchmakers can perform

Noninvasive tests to assess basic mechanical Integrity functional factors including water resistance timing accuracy and balance amplitude can all be assessed using basic equipment without opening the watch watches under 5 years old should not struggle to pass this battery of cheap tests okay rist shots number two Kate M Kate manuso wife

Of Tim both good friends of the brand she Shar her new omega C master aquatera summerblue from govberg thank you so much for trusting our extended company K is at the Rose Bowl with his jlc master World Geographic travel watch at that’s a rare piece Abdul of Germany shares his

Tim masu timeout Hat by the way guys more Tim masu accessories on the way and his Casio worldtimer with bronze case mod Mel rolls in his super cool Lucid Air Dream Edition with the IWC Portuguese or automatic 7 Days andm returns from Korea and Singapore in style with his Dan reuer dr02

Chronograph guys send your wrist shots to Monday mailbag at thewatchbox.com to see your watch on this box by the way I too am wearing my Dan reuer dr02 today okay six myths about luxury watches continued myths smart watches will kill the luxury watch reality 9 years after

The launch of the Apple watch and nearly two decades after SmartWatches as a genre debuted there is no evidence none that any Smartwatch will kill or replace or undermine luxury watches when the Apple watch was announced in 2014 at the tail end of the year bombastic claims

Were made that luxury time pieces would suffer another quartz crisis the name given to a traumatic period from the 70s and 80s when cheap electronic watches nearly exterminated the mechanical ones while low priced Swiss watches take take a good look at these price brackets while low priced Swiss watches think

Hundreds of dollars did suffer significant declines in sales volume due to the Apple watch true mechanical watches with basically wholesale prices starting in the four fig range they have lost no ground they have even gained throughout this period for better or worse smart watches are like phones utilitarian

Great for all kinds of connecting and disposable they count your steps they log your sleep and they give huge corporations another opportunity to mine your data while you are going about your life it will know everything about which drive-throughs you visit how much time you spend watching the tube so basically

It’s a little spot but Prestige enduring appeal durability and Community are beyond the reach even of the Apple watch no one requires a luxury watch to tell time in the same sense that nobody needs a m pen to write a letter cheaper options have existed for decades on both fronts luxury

Watches are generational products often decorated by hand nostalgic and romantic Central to the appeal of a luxury watch is permanence nobody envisions passing his iPhone 5 or his Apple Watch series 3 to a grandchild at college graduation but a luxury watch has a potential to be one of the two most enduring purchases

That you will make in a lifetime alongside your home and with a potential service life measured in hundreds of years your luxury watch may even Outlast your Dreamhouse final myth well no we got two more no normal person can afford a luxury watch guys many people of

Ordinary means can in fact afford a luxury watch the there’s no doubt that buyers with Limitless resources have access to Limitless options that’s cool we understand that but Legions of middleclass watch enthusiasts enjoy owning at least one fine watch brands such as Lin of Switzerland nomos gluta of Germany specialize in watches priced

Substantially below $10,000 across the board more like orus Meo Christopher Ward offer outstanding quality engineering and impressive design for well under $5,000 even the hottest Trend in modern watchmaking independent creators can be accessed thanks to sub $10,000 watches from reuer watches of New York Garrick of Norfolk England Sor beard to France

And the French Swiss hybrid Reservoir that manufactures in Switzerland there are many more guys you’ve got lots of options furthermore pre-owned watches give buyers an opportunity to own more expensive machines after the initial depreciation hit think about this a $14,300 Gerard parag go laurato becomes a sub $10,000 used watch many available

Under 10 grand all day long a $15,300 BL p5050 fathoms a high horology dive watch becomes about an $1,000 used watch well none of these are cheap and I’m not going to make any bones about it this is still a lot of money you’re

Still going to have to plan as a guy who is once on the outside looking into the watch hobby I realize 5 10 grand it’s still a lot of bones but here’s the thing they’re accessible on middle class budgets with some planning and resetting of priorities imagine a jet ski a

Motorcycle an overseas vacation none of this seems completely impossible on average income but all of these indulgences have the potential to cost more and endure less than a luxury watch purchase choosing a midsize Ford Ranger pickup over a full-size F-150 can save you tens of thousands and if you’re not

A laborer or constantly moving houses it might even make more sense from a lifestyle standpoint plus that four-door will open the door to a luxury watch with the cash you save you could vacation domestically rather than going abroad whatever domestic is to you whatever country you’re in it’s going to

Be cheaper to stay in your country rather than go abroad save the difference you could also if you’re an American male over a certain age skip the midlife crisis Harley-Davidson or if you’re like everyone else earmark a tax return and own a watch that will last a lifetime it’s a very easily planned

Progression from the ambition the day you take delivery and put the watch on your wrist and as someone who wants how to buy his watches on a military salary I can tell you for a fact it’s possible all right final myth luxury watches are handmade very very few luxury watches

Are made entirely by hand even the ultra low volume Brands including fpj gral fory and to incorporate machine fabrication of basic components before adding manual finish in fact gral forc which is renowned for its use of Premier grade manual finish still uses CNC and electrospark erosion among other

Automated procedures gral is now driving towards making 450 watches a year but how many could it produce if it used handcrafted parts and hand tools exclusively the answer is two maybe three maybe gral 4C’s handmade one a model launched in 2019 will always say on the case whether it’s one of two or

Three made that year this three-and tbon relatively simple by gral standard soaks up 6,000 man hours which is about three times what Philipe dufor used to spend on his Groner pocket watches David Walter a super low volume scratch Builder out of California also works entirely with hand tools on his handful

Of watches per year and a few of his kind do still work in the industry but very rare Brands like like Rolex and Omega use nearly 100% automated that is robot and machine fabrication to deliver over 1 million watches per year between them and the manufacturer’s cost to

Build an industrialized product like an ublo Big Bang like let’s take the original Big Bang right there it’s likely 10% or less of the retail price this watch May cost hundreds of dollars to make well it’s an extreme example other brands routinely charge 3 to 10 times their fabrication cost for new

Watches at retail price okay guys viewer is chots number three sarab p and Enzo the dog share mutual appreciation of the Rolex GMT Master 2 right there wisley G and his orus big Crown propilot GMT explore Rocky Mountain National Park TI shares his 1916 bought Omega C Master aquatera

Annual calendar while in the Hudson Valley thank you for trusting our company Jeff R posts the Family Two Rolex one Moon swatch out on vacation on the slopes chitan K of Seattle is out in the emerald Fields with his Grand Seiko snowflake Spring Drive we love them all

Send your shots to Monday mailbag at thebox.com to see your analog on my digital macros and watches live guys it was coming by popular demand I’m bringing back my detailed macr level discussion of movements cases and dials super close Imaging and live watches allow me to illustrate the topics often

Broached in the abstract on this show and my other platform now you will see what I see through my eyes let’s start with a perennial favorite of mine the Blan 50 Fathoms you know well the reference 5015 this example in titanium has a display case back so let’s take a

Look finish is quite Superior to comparably pric divers from Autumn RPA look at those rounded bevels and the depth of the snailing across the bridges not coot to genev snailing also notice the bevel is rounded and mirrored not a crude machine straight edge while here you can see that the bevels are Broad

And mirrored across the board you can also see that the jewel sinks have an internal Partridge eye polish which is quite nice now the striping in this case is that snailing so think a spiral Eagle’s eye like pattern across the bridges but note that the bevels converge in rounded fashion and that the

Shamer has been drawn somewhat over the top of the bridge you can also see how the corner is somewhat rounded off rather than sharp that indicates to me that some sort of automated process is still involved likely the in Milling before some sort of handheld drill bit

With a buffing tool is applied to deliver the mirrored shine okay next Philipe dufor needs no introduction I interviewed him at Dubai watch week in 2019 but frankly he was a legend then he was a legend 30 years ago when was the last time he got a chance to see his

Work up close now this Simplicity is one of the earliest he crafted model launched in 2000 this one was made around 2001 first 10 ever constructed background Philip dfor was a watchmaker for among others xer lult in his youth he was a restoration specialist he was born in the valley J

He practices in that tradition in the 80s he was making pocket watches by commission also in the early ’90s he made the first gron Soni pocket watch and wristatch tandem both made Under One Roof and that was the first time anyone had built both by his own hand he also

Made The Duality which joined two escapements by a differential well prompted by the Japanese Market he launched the Simplicity in both 34 and 37 millim in the year 2000 now its dial employs real Rosel guos and he credits his supplier metm at the base of the dial rare transparency in this business

The case features welded on lugs a timec consuming Tim honored and artisanal process that will always require slow going but it’s also the only way to get that super sharp crease between case and lug and although the watch is only 34 MIM in diameter the watch has a caliber

That measures 30 mm which is exceptional given how well it fills that case back look at those Geneva waves they create the impression of real depth those are the best Stripes I’ve ever seen look at the devil’s horns over the center wheel the inward angles over the train bridge

And surprise surprise it’s free sprung but let’s get closer englage is stunning and singular it’s started by hand it’s finished by hand with genan wood that phelip actually gathers outside of his watch making aier in the valet duju now the points you could see they’re as impressive as the inward angles jump

Back and forth between those those are the outward points those are the inward angles both the Hallmark of the best hand finishing also compare those points to the bla P right here you could see see the difference between true hand finish points and merely hand assisted points the sharpness of the duor

Movement is what sets it apart now as with the size of the movement duor Surprises by employing a contemporary free sprung balance which I did not expect to see and an enormous free sprung balance wheel at that beating away at a stately 18,000 vibrations per hour look at the detail

On the low-lying bridge for the escapement this is below the balance the balance and the hairspring look how well that underlying Bridge has been finished in fact you could see a little bit of the actual lever down at the bottom of the picture look even that’s been beveled in Black polished on its

Top every detail finished to an excruciating level of exactitude coat to genev generic until you see them applied like this they have a swashing three-dimensional kinetic appearance that is exclusive to only the best Geneva wave finally look at the Precision and intricacy of the hand engraved solid gold Builder plate one

False move and you lose the component all of this done on a micro level with a burn and a chisel very very impressive now let’s look at something we don’t often see a flagship torban from Arnold and son a brand that probably never crosses your mind when you’re considering high-end watchmaking this is

An example of the kind of Excellence whose existence is all but known to collectors none of this would be out of place on Holy Trinity or longa so the Arnold and Sun tbte that is true beat torb on escapement came out in 2015 28 pieces in rose gold retail was over

$160,000 buy it pre-owned today more like $60,000 that is great value dial side you can see they give you all the action up front showing the open Barrel the motion works the drivetrain and the toron down at the bottom look how the base plate doubles as the base of the

Dial and it’s been cut on an engine look how half of the hands have been satinated off to the upper left the torban and its bridges are black polished they reflect light only in one angle every other angle they look black The Carriage itself also features black

Polish and micro bevels look at the stud holder that’s been rounded off on its side by hand pocket watch style wolf tooth gear profiles on the ratchet wheel are used to ensure Ultra smooth winding on the barrel for good measure all major wheels on this watch are interior

Beveled something even the Holy Trinity doesn’t always give you also on the reverse side we have the same lathe turned guos as on the dial but with a different pattern this time we also have a deadbeat secondary escapement you can see with a indexing wheel a pallet Jewel

And a linear spring beautifully made it ensures that this watch has two heartbeats one for the dead beat one for the torban and the counterweight the dead beat lever is a tiny anchor made of steel that reminds us of Arnold’s history in Marine navigation but look at

The beveling and the satin and how they break cleanly despite the minuscule size of the surfaces being finished the same is true for the keyless Works which is off to the other side steel parts immaculately decorated its millimeter level parts are satin brushed on their tops and beveled on their edges guys

Thank you so much let’s see what you’ve got from me rist chots number four Jimmy Z of Toronto is in Japan for dinner with the latest edition of the tutor black Bay and his family Kirk K is in Cita Mexico with his Grand SEO GMT sbgn003 looking good guys stay warm wear

Sunscreen LNS rolls with his strap clad Omega speed master in the BMW x5m competition Shane P captured his vintage people’s proam golf watch with Pokemon in Hollywood California Warren sticks the landing and takes us home with three iconic Pilots watches by Omega brightling and IWC guys if you

Want to see your Trio on this Telly contact me I am always Monday mailbag at thewatchbox.com thanks to everyone who joined in thank you to my crew and my live audience it’s always a pleasure to talk to a crowd time out Tim out thanks for logging on