Land Rover Discovery 5 3.0 sticking throttle body quick repair and replacement with blocked DPF Cleaning

    for repair bookings email orileysautos@gmail.com ( not for questions or advice)

    Launch UK products used in the video are available at www.launchtech.co.uk

    my official Kingbolen diagnostic affiliate link is https://kingbolentool.com/?ref=iq39r3l2

    Hello it’s Jimmy her Ry got a little bit of wind noise so sorry if it’s on the video got here a Land Rover Discovery 5 now there’s not a lot of cars that I can diagnose over the phone but this one I could so sorry about the wind noise out

    There if you could hear that on the phone so this customer called me and said he’s had this out of garage and there’s a problem with it and they tried to reset the codes for the DPF but they wouldn’t reset and they didn’t know how to resolve the problem basically so

    I said well he’s coming from Yorkshire area so I said you know if you could get me the codes before you come all the way down it’d be handy and he got me the codes which was a p uh over boost code p299 I think uh turbo over boost and a DPF s

    Accumulation so I said okay yeah I pretty sure what we’re going to need and I’ve asked the customer to bring for me a throttle buddy from Land Rover because it’s very difficult to get hold of them off the shelf uh so he’s bring that with me and I’m pretty sure I know what’s

    Wrong with it before I even have to look at it but we’re going to get the diagnostic on here and I’ll show you what’s going on now most of my viewers are going probably already seen this video so you probably even know what I’m looking at we’ve got a DPF

    Full and why is why is the DPF full it’s because there’s a PO 299 uh turbo over boost okay I’ve got King Bolan K10 diagnostic scan tool here I’ll put the link for this tool in my description where you where I’ve got an affiliate code where you can buy it from

    And we’re going to do a scan on the engine here which is let’s just do full scan ECM there it is p2463 and sorry I said a p299 which is an under boost called P2 2 3 4 77 turbo over boost that is the fall code the reason that’s not reachable is because

    There’s a flap in the throttle body that gets stuck um yeah same story over and over I’ve done this video of it before so we’re going to get to the root of the problem and fix it okay so we come in we open the Bonnet here we take off the

    Plastic engine cover pretty simple here to pull off this clip just get your fingers underneath Flip It Off put it to the side yep we’ve got a sticking flap sticky flaps not what you want in this situation now I’ll give you a little tip here how you can sometimes

    Temporarily fix these is if you get a trim tool like this which spreads out the force a little bit get it directly over the middle there where the rod sits cuz what happens is this shifts to one side if you look closely you’ll see that there’s a gap on the right side but

    There’s not on this side you see the gap on the right hand side so it’s shifted slightly to the left and we need to knock it back into place so let’s give that a try and that’s worked but in this case because the customer doesn’t want to risk it coming

    Back when he goes all the way back to Yorkshire we’re going to just replace it AP part so again we’ll use our trim tool we’ll lift the wire in here off of here we get behind here release the plug like that and the same with this plug over

    Here we’ll press that and take it out this is for the boost sensor right here so you can see the boost sensor is part of this so once this doesn’t go where it wants to go it affects the pressure wood in here and that’s what causes your

    Boost over turbo over boost cold now we have a 10 m here we’re going to get this open okay we’re going to come on here 10 mil get that open take that big long bolt out make sure that you put this over here somewhere safe you don’t want your lung

    Bolt getting stuck in the sticky shaft so now we’re going to need pair of these pliers these are specific pliers that you need to release these little Clips here just like that oh yeah so we’ve only got one on this some models Jaguars uh have got a second one of these pipes coming

    In this side and runs down there so this one this particular model here has only got one so we’ll open that off and just tuck it to the side like that so now that is released I’m going to try and shift it to the right if we can if not we’ve got

    Another little bolt here to pull this pipe away from here so that’s it I’ve managed to push it to the right hand side so when you push it to the right it’ll slide in to this manifold on this side and you can twist it upwards and

    Pull it out and this is what you get here inside a diesel engine black carbon that messes everything up so this part here with a sear charge has come in at 530b but you will get 70 lb back once you bring the old part back so that’s it

    We just clean up the area fit the new part exactly how the old one came out and get these little plugs stick them back in where they came from make sure you hear a click as you put them in push that back on there attach your pipe back to the to the

    Flap get your clip now get your ring lock it in in place and then push it all the way in make sure the ring is all the way around clipped in and once you got your ring on there stops anything getting into your flap so now you put your ring on your

    New flaps you’re going to go into special functions here this is using a king balling or a launch software tool going to to Common special functions and then once like I said once you put the ring on it you need to marry your throttle body there to the vehicle so program it

    In this will do the adaptions on the new throttle body turn your ignition off and back on and press okay now switch it back off job done so DPF pressure there we’ve got four which on these means you have 40 Ms of pressure uh because it doesn’t read

    Anything other than that it just reads 1 2 3 4 56 basically which is 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 Ms basically okay for that I’m going to use this kit from lunch UK which is a gun here that you put the fluid in which is

    Also from lunch UK and that connects up to my compressor at 130 PSI and what we need to do is just get this attached somewhere into the DPF by either removing a sensor uh or the pressure sensor holes or a temperature sensor anything like that so here is the DPF system on

    This and just over here we have up there somewhere we have a uh DPF pressure sensor those two hoses we’re going to remove that and get the nozzle attached in there just over there you have the blue injector as well DPF is up the front there so once that’s connected to the

    Car there we squeeze the trigger and get it in you’ll hear the compressor come On okay so now that’s all done and we’ve got the old part here in the box that is the Land Rover part number there for it okay so we got this back started now we’re going to rev the vehicle up to 3,000 RPM which is at 160 m there now 130 so 13 is 12 is 120 120 M we want to see that come down to sort of four or five M four well four or five on here which is 40 to 50 Ms we’ll hold that rev there for a couple of Minutes and we should see that pressure dropping doesn’t seem to be moving so far but hopefully it’s going to Drop give it a few accelerations up and down to get it to clear now you’ll get a bit of vapor there coming from the exhaust looks something like that now like I said we have 40 to 50 mbars there at rivs and anything below 10 ms we will

    Get a zero reading so that’s a good result all perfect now all that’s left to do is come in clear default codes that we had and then we’re going to start the vehicle up Let it idle for a second and we can just go back out just

    To confirm go back in read the code again make sure that Thea codes have cleared now what I’m going to do just to make sure it may not need it but we’re going to turn the engine off turn the ignition on and we’re going to go to Common

    Special functions on this tool go to exhaust emissions now just to reset all of the calculations because because it is fault all of the calculations of the DPF are going to be completely messed up so what we need to do is tell it it’s had a new

    DPF now that the pressure is the same as a new DPF would be so we’re going to do that turn the ignition off turn the ignition on and then to finish off we turned the ignition off and that’s successful start it up and let it do it

    Cycle there just confirm that all of the engine lights are off and we have full power back we’ve just taken it on a little bit of a test drive up and down the road here full power everything’s back as it should be so it’s all good to

    Go so like I said this kit comes from launch UK I’ll put the link in the video description for that and this tool is from King Bolan it’s the K10 model I’ll put the link for that in there as well I’ve got an affiliate code for these put

    That in there the Milwaukee compressor I’ve got it from Screwfix that’s another Land Rover Discovery ready to hit the road see you on the next Video

    21 Comments

    1. Hi jimmy thanks for sharing that information great video very well explained i have been looking at a few diagnostic machines the AUTEL IM 608 pro 2 with key coding techniques is this the best autel on the market 😊

    2. Great video Jimmy, no one likes a sticky flap , I once went out my local mot station where a repair was being carried out on a range rover throttle body , but now lumpy idle , did a smoke test and found that the throttle body elbow was nut fully home not allowing the clip to lock in thus allowing an air leak on the same , your channel is very informative for many ,wether in our job or the general public , have a great Christmas and New year ❤

    3. Hi Jimmy,how much mileage roughly would you have to be doing to block the DPF do you think?when you take your vehicle for service does it get cleaned do you know?

    4. All these DPF videos scares me… How can we prevent having a clogged DPF?
      I try to avoid using my 1.5 Transit Connect for very short trips whenever possible, and when I notice it is regenerating I let it finish, although the notice appears for a split second and not easy to spot.
      Perhaps any fuel additives? Or are they useless?

    5. Does it wash out the ash, not just the soot? Should you really let this detergent go to turbo and further into the engine? Can you do dynamic pressure reading before and after cleaning on the 4th or 6th gear at full throttle? Thanks

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