As the dark winter draws in, you need to protect yourself and your bike from the muddy, cold, wet weather. Alex tells you 6 of the best ways to prepare your bike for the cold elements, including mudguards (or fenders) and winter tyres to make the season transition easier!

    00:00 Intro
    00:24 Mudguards
    02:22 Maintaining components
    03:04 Tyre choice
    04:03 Chain
    05:02 Lights
    05:41 Waterproof your spares

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    How do you protect your bike from the cold weather? ๐ŸŒง๏ธโ„๏ธ

    Let us know in the comments below! ๐Ÿ’ฌ

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    31 Comments

    1. Thanks Alex, all good points for winter riding and it's tough out here sometimes in the 'car culture' world. Dirty slush, salt and .. well .. drivers. You could also do a short video on the rider who, yes, is second to the bike but still important. How to keep dry in wet winter riding? Keeping your feet dry, your indoor at the office clothes dry and yet without working up a sweat under wool or water resistant bike clothing? Thanks for always great videos and ideas.

    2. Hey, rider whoโ€™s following behind here, please please please mudguard up for the season, mudguards are cool, trust me, cooler than all that street dirt and grime all over your jerseyโ€ฆ ๐Ÿ˜‰

    3. As usual it's obvious that the UK isn't a country that sees below-zero temperatures for extended periods of time. If it were, studded tires would be on top of the list.

    4. I bought a new bike partially because mudguards can be fitted easily with all the braze ons included. Getting the rear wheel off with through axles disk brakes, and mudguards can be challenging. Carrying a bit of light cordage that can be tossed over a low tree branch and looping it under the saddle nose can help. On a heavy touring bike in particular, this can be a game changer. A rural delivery mailbox here in the USA can also work.

    5. Thanks Alex and crew…I take off wheels and everything easily removable , bolts and all , wash it , then silicone the hell out of it ! Sprayed on a rag , and wiped everywhere….feces tends to slide off !

    6. #ASKGCNTECH, I am concerned about repeatedly removing and installing the rear thru-axle on my carbon road bike to put it on my indoor trainer. I do it weekly, sometimes twice or more. I take care not to cross thread it but believe the bike is not manufactured with this intent. How harmful could it be? Should I be concerned? Iโ€™m considering one of the low priced, low end bikes because the used, higher quality bikes in my area are still expensive.

    7. Putting your inner tube in a plastic bag should be done year round. I didnโ€™t have a puncture for about 6 months, went to put on my new inner tube and the valve had oxidised and was impossible to open. Had a long walk home.

    8. Can you do a piece on what power meter to get for a time trial bike as many spider meters only seem to go to 53/39 and give me a top notch power meter for raising the issue. I'm thinking crank arm ATM because I've not found a spider option

    9. Good point about area specific! In Montreal winter grease should be lighter! at below freezing temperatures. I actually use oil squirted into the vent hole in the bottom bracket of my "cheap" old steel clunker used for winter. this helps to wash out the salt used on the roads as it leaks out. Also I use oil (heresy) on the chain for same reason, and get a new one in spring. A winter bike, if you can afford the space, is a good idea. Free, or cheap, is best because salt, snow water is very hard on them! Leave it outside (LOCKED WELL) so rusting is slowed right down and you aren't importing snow, ice, salt into your apartment/ house.
      For cables, dry and lube them. Coated stainless is best but I cut my housings at the lowest point in every curve so water tends to drain out and you don't have as much problems with frozen cables. It will happen unless you have hydraulic everything, bring the bike in to melt it, dry the cable, WD-40 housing, dry re-lube the cable.
      Lights yes!
      Tires, once the ice is here I like a studded tire, at least for the front. Sliding out with the rear is usually recoverable, but the front end is more difficult. A lugged tire on back gives usually enough traction. After about 4" of snow on road I have to ride in car tracks as they are doing the work of moving the snow aside. Don't know if I would recommend it to everyone, riding with cars has it's risks.

      I have to use Ski-Doo boots, mitts (not gloves), even electric hand warmers, on colder days. (Worst ride last winter had wind chill of -46C, but am hoping this winter better)

    10. I like to road bicycle butt.. so much, I don't like to 'huff and puff–, even in popular 4, 8,๐Ÿ˜ฎ or tenure ) cycles.

      ๐Ÿค” Remember and/or know the Alamo (and the political cycles of ILKS)!

      Likely the former Price Point bicycle recyclers and supply, 1490 W. Walnut Parkway
      Rancho Dominguez, CA- USA has been 'attacked' by price- raising Coalition ILKS and cyclists on black and white gravel bicycles! glk Condor cyclist in the salvage yard?

    11. I have two sets of wheels for my gravel bike I use for winter riding and CX. After my last CX-race, mid-November, I'll put tyres with spikes on one set. So, when needed, I can switch my bike quickly for ice-winter we often have several weeks in SW Finland but I don't spoil the spiked tyres during the months of – what I call – Euro-winter with rain, mud and temperatures just above zero. On the other set of wheels I have either gravel or CX tyres, for the Euro-winter conditions ๐Ÿ˜‰

    12. I go different I ride (NY) avoiding the rain until about the end of the November. Then Im in on the indoor trainer till April. I hate riding in the wet and below freezing but funny enough I can run all year round.

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